DerHammer

Ok guys seeing if anyone can help me! I've read every thread imaginable about the alternator/battery workshop. I purchased a new AGM battery. That didn't fix it. I have a 2003 c32 with the valeo alternator. I ordered the Valeo OEM voltage regulator and replaced that as well. Still having 11.5 volts and alternator definately not working correctly. So I ordered the alternator replacement and have it ready. I remove battery, air intake passenger side, air pump and bracket, following the DIY on c32 instruction thread. I have released the alternator from the 2 bolts holding it in place and unhooked the 2 plugs on the rear of the alternator. Now here's where I'm stuck: I cannot get the alternator out of the engine bay! I've tried just about every contortion of hands and alternator possible and still cannot pull the sucker out. Any one else do this themselves and know how to make this any easier?? Should I remove the fan shroud? or the plumbing around the alternator? Is it possible to remove it from below instead?

Thanks in advance!
Frustrated DIYer from C32land....

testknight

I am pretty sure I removed mine from below. Not sure if you bought a reman one or not, but if so, you may need to crack the case and turn the housing so everything lines up and plugs in properly when installing (this will make sense once you get there, that is if an issue for you at all).

If you find not possible from below, report back I may have other ideas for you

testknight

Hell I can't remember now which way I pulled it...now thinking about it, I do remmeber it not coming out right away. The other diea I alludded to you alreay mentioned...taking out the fan...its comes out pretty quick (pay attentioned how you orient it when pulling it out)

DerHammer

I looked under the car and it looks like I would have to remove suspension bits to pull it out from below. I'm in the process of removing the radiator fan and have it disconnected from the radiator, but am having a hell of a time pulling it up and out. Any tips? I'm trying not to remove the radiator hoses while doing this

DG83 C55

On the C55, I had to remove the radiator fan in order to get the alternator out and then the new one in. This including having to take off two hoses from the water pump, so I ended up changing out the coolant. Its a long, but straightforward job, but just take a step back and look at everything that needs to come off and it will make sense.

Damian

DerHammer

Thanks for the help! I removed the radiator hose and was able to pull out the cooling fan. The alternator came out easy with the cooling fan removed. Putting the alternator back into place wasn't the easiest task, but everything is now back together and running like a top.

For anyone else attempting this its really not that bad. There is a lot of misinformation out there about this job though.

If you have a 2002-2004 c32 and your attempting this check your alternator to see if it's
a valeo or a bosch. The voltage regulator is replaceable on either. It was very hard to see the writing on the back of the alternator so I used a flashlight and a CD disc as a mirror to read it. Voltage regulators are pretty cheap. As of my writing this the prices I found were : $80 for the Bosch regulator and $110 for the Valeo.

In my case the Voltage regulator was not the culprit and I had to replace the alternator. I ordered a reman Bosch AL0787 from Advance for $260 +core. The reman Bosch comes with a 5 groove pulley that must be swapped out with the 7 groove pulley that is on your existing alternator. If you have an airgun you can swap it your self. If not any Advance will do it for free.

If you go the route I went and use the Bosch reman in place of your Valeo you will need to be a little creative with the 2 plugs on the backside of the new alternator. The locations are different. The plug in connector reaches the new location fine. The other connector has to be stretched a bit and bent at an angle to attach on the exposed screw. I torqued down the bolt a good bit to ensure a proper fit and for peace of mind.

Also make sure your battery is fully charged before firing up the car for the first time with the new alternator. In my case I purchased a new AGM battery from Advance for $125. (It retailed for $160 but I googled Advance Auto promo codes and saved some $$)

So far so good. Drove 180 miles today and it actually feels faster than before. It probably isn't but if it feels faster who cares right?

Thanks for all the DIY articles available here and for being the best automotive forum I've ever been on!

DerHammer

BTW. If anyone needs help doing this feel free to PM me

jvakos

old post but am dealing with same alternator issue and had repair quotes of $1600 from fletcher jones mercedes of chicago, then $900 from a local shop but after reading this post by DerHammer am thinking i may try to fix myself and buy the part.

Is the alternator replacement described here in this thread and what is explained in this youtube video for alternator replacement in w203 cars (its not C32 example in the video) about what you can expect to replace the alternator????????


would REALLY appreciate any input as i just got my car towed back home for a hundred bucks as it died several miles from where i live. ia am hoping to avoid spending nearly $1000 to fix an alternator....thx as always

insame1

what part died? If the shaft/pulley is good then just get it up on jacks and replace the voltage regulator.

jvakos

Insame1 - thanks for the response. I'm guessing the entire altnernator died as its the original unit on a 2003 with 113,000 miles now.

i was hoping i could just buy this new alternator and get my local shop to install it rather than pay th $1200 the dealer is quoting....????

Mercedes Alternator - Genuine Mercedes 013154810283 - $285

https://www.fcpeuro.com/Mercedes~Ben...30&m=20&page=1

insame1

That's a good price and removing it is not hat hard. You could do it yourself and save the extra bucks for beer. You will most likely need an impact to swap the pulley though.

C230 Sport Coup

113K really isn't that much and likely all that's bad is the brushes are worn out. The brushes are included with the voltage regulator.
The diodes are much less likely to fail.
Save yourself some time and money and try just replacing the VR.
And you'll be good for another 100K + miles!
Yeah, forget the dealer! $1600! Fuggetaboutit!

jvakos

Guys what i ended up doing, which was not my ideal but turned out to be economical, was to have my car towed (for free) to a chicago pep boys who replaced my Valeo alternator (allowed me to keep it for zero core fee) with a Bosch reman alternator and replaced my dead Bosch battery under warranty for just 15 bucks to install it. total cost was about 500 bucks (2 hours labor @ 100 bucks, plus altnerator cost 300 bucks). the tow to my reliable indy shop would have been 150 plus having them buy a new battery would be another 100 or so.

I am gonna pull the voltage regulator out of the Valeo that i was able to keep and see if i can get that tested to determine if the regulator or core of the altnernator died... if just the regulator then sounds like i can replace that and have a working Valeo as a backup alternaor.

really appreciate all the feedback and help guys...

C3Duece

john...what did Speedriven quote you for the job?

jvakos

was about $600 but that included a valeo alternator and peace of mind of the speedriven guys doing the work. i only opted for the pep boys route becuase the flat bed tow to palatine / speedriven was about 150 bucks from the tow serice i use (which is exceptional) and my battery was dead so added another 150 for new battery which was a free warranty replacement from pep boys where i bought it so saved about 300 bucks.

i will say, the "free" tow ****ed up my front bumper so my hood and fender aligment is off about 1/8 of an inch (the bumper sags now) which i'm soring out so net net is probably was NOT worth the saving few bucks.