hmmm..looks like C55 pistons aren't too tough after all.
#26
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2005 E55 AMG
Where were you reading your timing readings from? I just checked mine with a hand held universal scanner that shows live data, and it shows timing advance. I'm not an expert on what this should be yet though. Normally driving around it was -25* or so and under WO it was -7* the first time and -8* the second time. The MAP sensor was showing around 9 inches at idle which is about 4.4psi and at WOT it was around 25 inches which is about 12psi. Is that right? It can't be reading boost because there's no way there's boost at idle!
Your car runs 7* at WOT? Then I guess the C55 I'm working on wasn't so bad after all.
As for the MAP sensor, keep in mind that it reads in atmospheric pressure ( you must subtract 14.5psi to the number it gives you ). Depends where you have yours hooked up, it might not see boost ( if it's plugged into the throttle body area for example ).
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2016 Chevrolet SS, 2006 Cadillac STS-V
I'm going to be calling Cory tomorrow anyway, so I'll ask him what he thinks about that. I'm planning on getting out to the drag strip Friday since that's the last test and tune night of the year.
#28
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2005 E55 AMG
7-8* of timing is freaking low, but granted, these cars are 11.1:1 so I'm sure Kleemann was scared of pushing it. My E55 runs 19-20* of timing at 14psi of boost.
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2016 Chevrolet SS, 2006 Cadillac STS-V
I talked to Brandon today, and he said the timing is fine because of the high compression. He also told me something else I wanted you to be aware of. He told me that if you buy new rods from Mercedes, the bearing cap on the rod is not seperated (broken off) from the rest of the rod yet and you need some sort of special equipment to do it.
I searched around with these part numbers and couldn't find any pictures. However, judging from the prices of those bad boys, I would imaging you're probably not buying new. You could probably find a used engine for that kind of money!
Rods: 113 030 04 20
Pistons: 113 030 43 17
I searched around with these part numbers and couldn't find any pictures. However, judging from the prices of those bad boys, I would imaging you're probably not buying new. You could probably find a used engine for that kind of money!
Rods: 113 030 04 20
Pistons: 113 030 43 17
Last edited by 91RS; 10-31-2012 at 10:00 PM.
#30
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2005 E55 AMG
I talked to Brandon today, and he said the timing is fine because of the high compression. He also told me something else I wanted you to be aware of. He told me that if you buy new rods from Mercedes, the bearing cap on the rod is not seperated (broken off) from the rest of the rod yet and you need some sort of special equipment to do it.
Regardless, I'm getting used rods and pistons from an E55.
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2016 Chevrolet SS, 2006 Cadillac STS-V
That's what Brandon at Kleemann told me. I'm sure there's information in WIS but I don't know if I'm too retarded to figure out how to use it or if the program is just too retarded to figure out how to use.
I figured used was the way you were going once I priced new stuff. Only $7000! Do you have any plans to do any head work while they're off? Like port and polishing?
I figured used was the way you were going once I priced new stuff. Only $7000! Do you have any plans to do any head work while they're off? Like port and polishing?
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2005 E55 AMG
That's what Brandon at Kleemann told me. I'm sure there's information in WIS but I don't know if I'm too retarded to figure out how to use it or if the program is just too retarded to figure out how to use.
I figured used was the way you were going once I priced new stuff. Only $7000! Do you have any plans to do any head work while they're off? Like port and polishing?
I figured used was the way you were going once I priced new stuff. Only $7000! Do you have any plans to do any head work while they're off? Like port and polishing?
#33
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Well, guess I kinda have to take back the C55 not being as strong as I thought...
Today I got my friends C55 engine torn apart and to my surprise, cylinder #8 ( which gave a 97psi compression number ) was completely intact. So now I'm really curious...EVERYTHING looks good even though I checked it multiple times, all the rest of the pistons had good compression except #8.
What the engine DID have was HUGE amounts of carbon build up...to the point of insanity. I'm guessing my valves are probably not sealing or something but I haven't checked that yet, time to call it quits for today.
Today I got my friends C55 engine torn apart and to my surprise, cylinder #8 ( which gave a 97psi compression number ) was completely intact. So now I'm really curious...EVERYTHING looks good even though I checked it multiple times, all the rest of the pistons had good compression except #8.
What the engine DID have was HUGE amounts of carbon build up...to the point of insanity. I'm guessing my valves are probably not sealing or something but I haven't checked that yet, time to call it quits for today.
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Alright some new info on the build.
The reason why the car was giving low compression number apparently was caused by simple wear and tear. Top ring gap was .500+mm and 2nd ring gave me .600+mm. OEM specs are anywhere between .250-.400mm and the new rings I bought were within that range.
Second, I installed the E55 pistons and rods and to my surprise, the engine would not turn 360* without locking it's self...OMG!! Thank God I only install two pistons when this happened. The bottom of the piston was touching the crankshaft. Upon comparing the C55 pistons to the E55 pistons, I found out that what seems to be balance pads that they have on the bottom where the wrist pin goes in is smaller on the C55 then it is on the E55. 1mm smaller to be exact. So....I grinded the E55 balance pad ( I think this is what it's called ) 1mm and checked again....GOLD! I also balanced the pistons to within 3 grams ( oem ones were off by 6 grams ).
Little by little...I'm getting there.
The reason why the car was giving low compression number apparently was caused by simple wear and tear. Top ring gap was .500+mm and 2nd ring gave me .600+mm. OEM specs are anywhere between .250-.400mm and the new rings I bought were within that range.
Second, I installed the E55 pistons and rods and to my surprise, the engine would not turn 360* without locking it's self...OMG!! Thank God I only install two pistons when this happened. The bottom of the piston was touching the crankshaft. Upon comparing the C55 pistons to the E55 pistons, I found out that what seems to be balance pads that they have on the bottom where the wrist pin goes in is smaller on the C55 then it is on the E55. 1mm smaller to be exact. So....I grinded the E55 balance pad ( I think this is what it's called ) 1mm and checked again....GOLD! I also balanced the pistons to within 3 grams ( oem ones were off by 6 grams ).
Little by little...I'm getting there.
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2005 E55 AMG
Car has been running for a week and we've already done some WOT runs but I need some tuning to be done to it and for some reason the cam sensor isn't working ( even with a new sensor ). Engine feels strong tough, very strong but I need to tune it before I go to the dyno.
#43
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After installing a 2.5" pulley on the kleeman setup and beating the living hell out of the car for a week ( litterally about 50 wot runs to 100+mph in one week ) the car began misfiring. Here are the compression results:
1 = 170
2 = 170
3 = 173
4 = 175
5 = 165
6 = 145
7 = 171
8 = 97
cyl 6 seems weak ( engine has 105k miles and ran nitrous before the supercharger ). Cyl 8 is toast however. Car ran fine though even after the damage. It's always number 8 isn't it.
Keep in mind, AF ratio was high 10's and timing was a ridiculously low 7-9* with 0* of timing retard due to knock up until 3rd gear where it would sometimes retard 1-2* or so in small bursts which isn't bad at all. I guess the engine was just tired.
1 = 170
2 = 170
3 = 173
4 = 175
5 = 165
6 = 145
7 = 171
8 = 97
cyl 6 seems weak ( engine has 105k miles and ran nitrous before the supercharger ). Cyl 8 is toast however. Car ran fine though even after the damage. It's always number 8 isn't it.
Keep in mind, AF ratio was high 10's and timing was a ridiculously low 7-9* with 0* of timing retard due to knock up until 3rd gear where it would sometimes retard 1-2* or so in small bursts which isn't bad at all. I guess the engine was just tired.
Cyl number 8 doesnt get proper fuel delivery on our cars... also on all 55k motors its the same. if you get a fuel like loop it'll fix cyl 8....
as far as 6 goes, im not sure....
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you probably already weakened your piston rings with the nitrous and then pushing it harder with a bad tune totally fcked up the car.
I'd say its more driver error than parts.
I'd say its more driver error than parts.
#45
The knock he was seeing was probably rich knock. Yes too little fuel can run the car lean and make it knock, and running to rich can also make it knock. 10:1 is too rich period. 11-12.5 is good. I would try E85 does wonders on other cars.
#46
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In my case with flowed heads, no catalysts,longtube headers etc etc.
i´ve got with my 2.2 litre kleemann kompressor at 3500rpm 0.55bar of boost.(8psi)
This with a 67mm pulley.(2.64")
Dynosession booked to the late April.