C32 AMG, C55 AMG (W203) 2001 - 2007

C32 SC Pulley Upgrade Options

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Old Jun 26, 2013 | 08:19 PM
  #26  
Velociabstract's Avatar
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From: Isla Verde, Puerto Rico
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Originally Posted by Lenin
With a Code3 pulley already installed, save some money and go for the Quaife LSD. That's the only real way to get any better traction and get into 1.8x sec. 60' area. The LSD should be good for at least 0.2 sec. in a 1/4 mile run.
I installed a Wavetrac and didn't drop my times a bit with street tires. I couldn't get a 1.9xx either. Can't drive I guess. Put on some 16" drag radials and 12 flat all day long with 1.8 60'. Well, when I found out the correct tire pressures and what kind of burn out to do. Now on the road course the LSD is amazing once you learn how far you can push it and how the car reacts differently. If you've never driven a car with a LSD you'll have a learning curve. I sure did.
My late version Code3 aluminum pulley went bad so I'm running with a ASP 178 now. It makes a few more horses but they're close. From what I've seen and heard the smaller S/C pulley behaves like the 181 crank. More boost sooner but more heat higher. So it'll feel better on the street but at the track the times won't vary much between the 2. I guess what I'm saying is skip the pulley. It'll improve 0 to 60 but not 0 to 115. If so, not by much.

Les
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 03:06 PM
  #27  
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I'd be really interested in knowing how the different pulley's are in creating heat. If the aftermarket Crank and SC pulley create same boost, would one create more heat than the other? I have numbers of my IATs on cold and hot days.
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 03:13 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by raf12690
I'd be really interested in knowing how the different pulley's are in creating heat. If the aftermarket Crank and SC pulley create same boost, would one create more heat than the other? I have numbers of my IATs on cold and hot days.
Your qtr #s are nearly identical to mine, so I am assuming we're putting out very similar power. I have not recently datalogged my IATS but I do know that when I replaced the leaky IC and added a larger Code 3 , they dropped substantially. So much so that with the new thermostat as well that I get a CEL on 50 degree days because the car thinks its running "too cool." A few days above 50 and the CEL goes away on it own. No scan tool needed.
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 04:06 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Newzchspy
Your qtr #s are nearly identical to mine, so I am assuming we're putting out very similar power. I have not recently datalogged my IATS but I do know that when I replaced the leaky IC and added a larger Code 3 , they dropped substantially. So much so that with the new thermostat as well that I get a CEL on 50 degree days because the car thinks its running "too cool." A few days above 50 and the CEL goes away on it own. No scan tool needed.
Did you notice a significant difference w/ the thermostat change? MIght consider getting one. I think once I get back to Florida I'm going to throw down for an aquamist Meth/h20 system. Did you get the C3 H/E only or the reservoir as well?
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 04:29 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by raf12690
Did you notice a significant difference w/ the thermostat change? MIght consider getting one. I think once I get back to Florida I'm going to throw down for an aquamist Meth/h20 system. Did you get the C3 H/E only or the reservoir as well?
I am running all C3 stuff except for the EC intake that they once made. I've got the reservoir and the HE as well as the thermostat. My tune is a EC (old one) and I've got no TCU tune because of early issues with it. My car runs the first run as strong as the last one, so the cooling is strong. I also run the Needs Wings PSK and spacers which I believe are a necessity as well.

As far as the thermostat is concerned, my car runs really cool but below 50 degrees F, it throws a CEL until the weather warms and then after a few cycles, it goes off.

Except for new fueling (Jakes done it on his C32) and perhaps a meth/ NOs kit, There's NOT much more you can do other than a Quaife and/or a TCU tune.
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 05:15 PM
  #31  
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From: Isla Verde, Puerto Rico
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My opinion is that the higher boost pulleys take as much extra power to spin as they produce which is why the original Code3 and 178 seem to be on par or at least really close to the 181, 185 or 62mm. Frankly, my experience with hot IAT's haven't shown substantial power losses unless they really get high. When the ECT's get up there it's another story. AFR's drop into the 9's and timing gets pulled dramatically. I could be wrong but I could be right.

Les
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 05:22 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Newzchspy
I am running all C3 stuff except for the EC intake that they once made. I've got the reservoir and the HE as well as the thermostat. My tune is a EC (old one) and I've got no TCU tune because of early issues with it. My car runs the first run as strong as the last one, so the cooling is strong. I also run the Needs Wings PSK and spacers which I believe are a necessity as well.

As far as the thermostat is concerned, my car runs really cool but below 50 degrees F, it throws a CEL until the weather warms and then after a few cycles, it goes off.

Except for new fueling (Jakes done it on his C32) and perhaps a meth/ NOs kit, There's NOT much more you can do other than a Quaife and/or a TCU tune.
Thanks, I need to see how much car does with the new intake I just put in. Next line of things will be mostly cooling. I might do a PSK kit as well. I would love to get a set of ceramic coated long tube headers made in the future, but we'll see.
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 08:59 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by raf12690
Thanks, I need to see how much car does with the new intake I just put in. Next line of things will be mostly cooling. I might do a PSK kit as well. I would love to get a set of ceramic coated long tube headers made in the future, but we'll see.
Don't bother with the headers. I've got long tube headers and don't ask me why, but I only got 4 hp after lots of dyno time. Really disappointed and poorer. Put your money to use where you get value.

Les
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 09:57 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Velociabstract
Don't bother with the headers. I've got long tube headers and don't ask me why, but I only got 4 hp after lots of dyno time. Really disappointed and poorer. Put your money to use where you get value.

Les
Are those the eurocharged ones? I know they only made 4-5 of them, and I would guess they add power. Didn't you say that you already had down pipes and other exhaust modifications already? That might be reason you only gained 4. You might have already gained a good amount from the downpipes. My family is from Ponce btw. I don't think my car would be able to run in that heat!
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 10:02 PM
  #35  
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I feel like I just want a little more exhaust sound but don't want to change too much of original piping or tips, and I'm worried if I take out secondary cat it will sound like crap. Right now just have res removed.
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 08:07 AM
  #36  
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I have long tube headers. The steering box had to be pulled, some grinding on an installation point on the bell housing and they rest against the firewall on the drivers side. In other words, a difficult, expensive installation.

Stock manifolds, Needswings downpipes (no cats) with the rest stock, were on my car before the headers. My best time with the headers in the 1/4 mile is .04 faster than the prior setup.
A similar smallish gain in the 1/2 mile.

Les
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