Best route to 500 fhp in a C55?
#1
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Best route to 500 fhp in a C55?
What is the most cost effective route to get 500 hp at the flywheel in a C55? Output similar to the stock SL55K. . .
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2016 Chevrolet SS, 2006 Cadillac STS-V
If you want to keep it reliable, you might as well buy another car. As much as I love the C55 for it's size and simplicity, I still wish I had never put the supercharger on my car.
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2013 C63 AMG P31, 2014 GMC Sierra (6.2)
If I was to do it I would probably drive down to Kleemann USA in Colorado Springs and get it done there just for peace of mind. I would tell the wife we're going on a vacation
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Second, I've had tons of stupid little problems that just keep adding up and I also don't think some parts are acceptable considering the cost of the kit. The kit is basically universal, it fits all Mercedes with the N/A M113 V8 (4.3L, 5.0L, and 5.5L). There may be a few slight variences in some parts for the different chassis, but overall the kit is universal. I will start by saying that I did the install myself, however; I work on cars for a living and I'm very meticulous and pride myself on having things look factory when I'm done. It took me two weeks to install the kit on my car and everyone that has seen it say it looks like it came that way. You'll see everyone on here recommend shipping your car to Kleemann HQ in Colorado and have them do the install. I don't know if that would have changed anything, I really don't see how it could have unless they do things different than how the installation manual says or use different parts than what come in the kit, which wouldn't make sense to me. I didn't feel it was acceptable to have to make brackets to mount the secondary fuel pump and intercooler pump on and to move the secondary AIR pump to it's new home. That's not really a deal breaker there though, the main thing I didn't like was the kit only comes with rubber 5/16" (7.9mm I think?) fuel hose for the secondary fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator setup. After a while the hose that came with the kit started to bubble out of the ends between the rubber linings of the hose. Then I replaced that with the wrong hose and it burst. Then I found some high-pressure Gates hose from O'Reilly and after a while the gasoline just ate up the inside of the hose and it blew off the barbs at the track one night and I barely made it home (I had some extra in the trunk). Replaced, did it again. Replaced with hose from a different store, did it again. Gates had no answers. I also tried different styles of clamps every time. Then I found some Goodyear hose from somewhere that was good to 100psi working pressure (pressure peaks at 110 psi under boost though) that I've been using for quite some time with a single eared clamp that isn't blown off or burst, but I swear I can smell a light fuel odor under the hood. Braided stainless fuel hose doesn't exist in the US in 5/16". Kleemann sourced some from Europe for me, but I can't find anyone who will crimp it to the barbs (they all tell me they don't do fuel line any more for liability reasons). Another problem is the secondary fuel pump has a block on it with an outlet to the fuel rail and also to the fuel pressure regulator. It uses a banjo bolt to attach it to the pump and I have to tighten it every two weeks or so or I get a fuel leak there. I've had to replace the belt 4 or 5 times for noise. I've had to replace the heat exchanger for a leak and fiddle with the hoses for an occasional drip. The 55K airbox splitter rubs on the wiper cowl and it squeaks in the winter when it's cold. And not the secondary fuel pump is blowing the fuse so I was driving it around without the proper fueling. Kleemann told me to give the pump a larger ground wire, but I haven't even bothered. It's been sitting in the garage for almost two weeks.
There may even be some stuff I forgot, but that's all I can think of right now. I don't know if these problems are just 'normal' or if they're my fault or the kit's fault or what. Either way, I'm just getting tired.
#14
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Thanks for the comprehensive feedback. I can see why you might be frustrated and disappointed.
I personally agree the power figure is a little lower than what is expected at the boost it is running. What is a stock NA 300whp? + low boost supercharger maybe 400-420whp would be nice. I think the more inefficient supercharger design is a let down. Twin screw is always better in every way compared to the root (which is what I assume it is being eaton although I think they have started producing the occasional twin screw) and I can only assume kleemann got a good deal out of the eaton corporation. It is a pity there is nothing left up top without running into detonation issues. Did you get a dyno tune? or mail in tune?
12.2sec is pretty awsome regardless so at least that is something. Your other experiences sound like the kit is not complete or well thought out. Its about $10k I presume which should mean perfect fitment, high quality everything included, proper heat exchanger and brackets to relocate things perfectly.
I install everything I ever get myself also. I have also made turbo kits before from scratch. I can't see how it could possibly make any difference if they did it. A proper boosted fuel setup should be a return style system with one proper fuel pump, appropriately sized injectors and a decent fuel pressure regulator. It sounds like they just chucked a second pump in and called it a day?
If I ever get the urge (which is very unlikely), maybe I will make a single turbo kit or a centrifugal.
I personally agree the power figure is a little lower than what is expected at the boost it is running. What is a stock NA 300whp? + low boost supercharger maybe 400-420whp would be nice. I think the more inefficient supercharger design is a let down. Twin screw is always better in every way compared to the root (which is what I assume it is being eaton although I think they have started producing the occasional twin screw) and I can only assume kleemann got a good deal out of the eaton corporation. It is a pity there is nothing left up top without running into detonation issues. Did you get a dyno tune? or mail in tune?
12.2sec is pretty awsome regardless so at least that is something. Your other experiences sound like the kit is not complete or well thought out. Its about $10k I presume which should mean perfect fitment, high quality everything included, proper heat exchanger and brackets to relocate things perfectly.
I install everything I ever get myself also. I have also made turbo kits before from scratch. I can't see how it could possibly make any difference if they did it. A proper boosted fuel setup should be a return style system with one proper fuel pump, appropriately sized injectors and a decent fuel pressure regulator. It sounds like they just chucked a second pump in and called it a day?
If I ever get the urge (which is very unlikely), maybe I will make a single turbo kit or a centrifugal.
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2016 Chevrolet SS, 2006 Cadillac STS-V
Thanks for the comprehensive feedback. I can see why you might be frustrated and disappointed.
I personally agree the power figure is a little lower than what is expected at the boost it is running. What is a stock NA 300whp? + low boost supercharger maybe 400-420whp would be nice. I think the more inefficient supercharger design is a let down. Twin screw is always better in every way compared to the root (which is what I assume it is being eaton although I think they have started producing the occasional twin screw) and I can only assume kleemann got a good deal out of the eaton corporation. It is a pity there is nothing left up top without running into detonation issues. Did you get a dyno tune? or mail in tune?
I personally agree the power figure is a little lower than what is expected at the boost it is running. What is a stock NA 300whp? + low boost supercharger maybe 400-420whp would be nice. I think the more inefficient supercharger design is a let down. Twin screw is always better in every way compared to the root (which is what I assume it is being eaton although I think they have started producing the occasional twin screw) and I can only assume kleemann got a good deal out of the eaton corporation. It is a pity there is nothing left up top without running into detonation issues. Did you get a dyno tune? or mail in tune?
12.2sec is pretty awsome regardless so at least that is something. Your other experiences sound like the kit is not complete or well thought out. Its about $10k I presume which should mean perfect fitment, high quality everything included, proper heat exchanger and brackets to relocate things perfectly.
I install everything I ever get myself also. I have also made turbo kits before from scratch. I can't see how it could possibly make any difference if they did it. A proper boosted fuel setup should be a return style system with one proper fuel pump, appropriately sized injectors and a decent fuel pressure regulator. It sounds like they just chucked a second pump in and called it a day?
#16
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05 C55 AMG
C55 route: $20k car, 8 years old, over $15k in modifications, heavily modded car reliability issues:
or
C63: $40k car, ECU tune, 4-5 year old car, more reliable HP.
What am I missing here? Why would anyone at this point in time put that kind of money into a C55? I can see that if it was 2005 or 2006 and the C63 was not out yet. That is the only reason I can think of.
or
C63: $40k car, ECU tune, 4-5 year old car, more reliable HP.
What am I missing here? Why would anyone at this point in time put that kind of money into a C55? I can see that if it was 2005 or 2006 and the C63 was not out yet. That is the only reason I can think of.
#18
C55 route: $20k car, 8 years old, over $15k in modifications, heavily modded car reliability issues:
or
C63: $40k car, ECU tune, 4-5 year old car, more reliable HP.
What am I missing here? Why would anyone at this point in time put that kind of money into a C55? I can see that if it was 2005 or 2006 and the C63 was not out yet. That is the only reason I can think of.
or
C63: $40k car, ECU tune, 4-5 year old car, more reliable HP.
What am I missing here? Why would anyone at this point in time put that kind of money into a C55? I can see that if it was 2005 or 2006 and the C63 was not out yet. That is the only reason I can think of.
#19
91, I've been out of the loop for a bit, BUT why do you say this??? The Kleemann has given me 0 reliability issues and runs very strong.
#20
Sure. This is just my experience though, there are others who've been completely happy. You can look at some of my old threads for some details on certain things as well. First, I was never happy with the power I got for the money I spent. I was expecting to have a 500hp car that could keep up with a C6 Z06 (at least in a straight line). At the time, I didn't know there was a difference between the older SC that was made by Autorotor (which I do believe I could have accomplished 500hp with) and the Eaton unit they use now. There's nothing really 'wrong' with the Eaton, but it is a different style of SC unit than the Autorotor and isn't as efficient. Because of the high compression ratio on the NA 5.5L, the boost cannot safely be increased above 5 or 6 psi with the Eaton or there will be too much heat. So what you get is all you're going to get. Unless you really want to spend some cash to lower the compression ratio (could be done a few different ways). In the end after the SC and headers w/ high flow cats and a beautiful custom 2.5" stainless exhaust all the way back the best I could dyno was 375hp to the wheels (it might have done a little better, but after the first run it was heatsoaked. So who knows.). It ran a 12.2 @ 112 at the drag strip. Now I do agree that's pretty quick and still faster than most cars on the road, it wasn't what I thought I was going to get. Keep in mind a factory stock Z06 will trap around 120mph in the 1/4. So I've been unhappy with that from the start but it was already done. Now don't get me wrong, it is still fun to drive. When it works. Which is next.
Second, I've had tons of stupid little problems that just keep adding up and I also don't think some parts are acceptable considering the cost of the kit. The kit is basically universal, it fits all Mercedes with the N/A M113 V8 (4.3L, 5.0L, and 5.5L). There may be a few slight variences in some parts for the different chassis, but overall the kit is universal. I will start by saying that I did the install myself, however; I work on cars for a living and I'm very meticulous and pride myself on having things look factory when I'm done. It took me two weeks to install the kit on my car and everyone that has seen it say it looks like it came that way. You'll see everyone on here recommend shipping your car to Kleemann HQ in Colorado and have them do the install. I don't know if that would have changed anything, I really don't see how it could have unless they do things different than how the installation manual says or use different parts than what come in the kit, which wouldn't make sense to me. I didn't feel it was acceptable to have to make brackets to mount the secondary fuel pump and intercooler pump on and to move the secondary AIR pump to it's new home. That's not really a deal breaker there though, the main thing I didn't like was the kit only comes with rubber 5/16" (7.9mm I think?) fuel hose for the secondary fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator setup. After a while the hose that came with the kit started to bubble out of the ends between the rubber linings of the hose. Then I replaced that with the wrong hose and it burst. Then I found some high-pressure Gates hose from O'Reilly and after a while the gasoline just ate up the inside of the hose and it blew off the barbs at the track one night and I barely made it home (I had some extra in the trunk). Replaced, did it again. Replaced with hose from a different store, did it again. Gates had no answers. I also tried different styles of clamps every time. Then I found some Goodyear hose from somewhere that was good to 100psi working pressure (pressure peaks at 110 psi under boost though) that I've been using for quite some time with a single eared clamp that isn't blown off or burst, but I swear I can smell a light fuel odor under the hood. Braided stainless fuel hose doesn't exist in the US in 5/16". Kleemann sourced some from Europe for me, but I can't find anyone who will crimp it to the barbs (they all tell me they don't do fuel line any more for liability reasons). Another problem is the secondary fuel pump has a block on it with an outlet to the fuel rail and also to the fuel pressure regulator. It uses a banjo bolt to attach it to the pump and I have to tighten it every two weeks or so or I get a fuel leak there. I've had to replace the belt 4 or 5 times for noise. I've had to replace the heat exchanger for a leak and fiddle with the hoses for an occasional drip. The 55K airbox splitter rubs on the wiper cowl and it squeaks in the winter when it's cold. And not the secondary fuel pump is blowing the fuse so I was driving it around without the proper fueling. Kleemann told me to give the pump a larger ground wire, but I haven't even bothered. It's been sitting in the garage for almost two weeks.
There may even be some stuff I forgot, but that's all I can think of right now. I don't know if these problems are just 'normal' or if they're my fault or the kit's fault or what. Either way, I'm just getting tired.
Second, I've had tons of stupid little problems that just keep adding up and I also don't think some parts are acceptable considering the cost of the kit. The kit is basically universal, it fits all Mercedes with the N/A M113 V8 (4.3L, 5.0L, and 5.5L). There may be a few slight variences in some parts for the different chassis, but overall the kit is universal. I will start by saying that I did the install myself, however; I work on cars for a living and I'm very meticulous and pride myself on having things look factory when I'm done. It took me two weeks to install the kit on my car and everyone that has seen it say it looks like it came that way. You'll see everyone on here recommend shipping your car to Kleemann HQ in Colorado and have them do the install. I don't know if that would have changed anything, I really don't see how it could have unless they do things different than how the installation manual says or use different parts than what come in the kit, which wouldn't make sense to me. I didn't feel it was acceptable to have to make brackets to mount the secondary fuel pump and intercooler pump on and to move the secondary AIR pump to it's new home. That's not really a deal breaker there though, the main thing I didn't like was the kit only comes with rubber 5/16" (7.9mm I think?) fuel hose for the secondary fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator setup. After a while the hose that came with the kit started to bubble out of the ends between the rubber linings of the hose. Then I replaced that with the wrong hose and it burst. Then I found some high-pressure Gates hose from O'Reilly and after a while the gasoline just ate up the inside of the hose and it blew off the barbs at the track one night and I barely made it home (I had some extra in the trunk). Replaced, did it again. Replaced with hose from a different store, did it again. Gates had no answers. I also tried different styles of clamps every time. Then I found some Goodyear hose from somewhere that was good to 100psi working pressure (pressure peaks at 110 psi under boost though) that I've been using for quite some time with a single eared clamp that isn't blown off or burst, but I swear I can smell a light fuel odor under the hood. Braided stainless fuel hose doesn't exist in the US in 5/16". Kleemann sourced some from Europe for me, but I can't find anyone who will crimp it to the barbs (they all tell me they don't do fuel line any more for liability reasons). Another problem is the secondary fuel pump has a block on it with an outlet to the fuel rail and also to the fuel pressure regulator. It uses a banjo bolt to attach it to the pump and I have to tighten it every two weeks or so or I get a fuel leak there. I've had to replace the belt 4 or 5 times for noise. I've had to replace the heat exchanger for a leak and fiddle with the hoses for an occasional drip. The 55K airbox splitter rubs on the wiper cowl and it squeaks in the winter when it's cold. And not the secondary fuel pump is blowing the fuse so I was driving it around without the proper fueling. Kleemann told me to give the pump a larger ground wire, but I haven't even bothered. It's been sitting in the garage for almost two weeks.
There may even be some stuff I forgot, but that's all I can think of right now. I don't know if these problems are just 'normal' or if they're my fault or the kit's fault or what. Either way, I'm just getting tired.
FWIW, my C32 which is modded will run 12.7s all day long at about 110 MPH so your Eaton car is NOT that much quicker than the C32 and is only about as quick as Jerry's C32 was before he sold his car.
Sorry you had the issues with the car. That's still a strong runner at 12. XX at 112 and goes to show HOW hard the C55 is to mod versus the C32.
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#23
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I´m going for 500hp coming winter,, no supercharger, no turbo, no NOS.
well,, i´ll maybe not reach all the way, but will i get around 470-500hp i´m happy.
I can say this,, do upgrade your heads with a decent headjob!
Lot of power there!
It´s almost a shame for AMG that they doesn´t care more for the heads.
It´s really ugly in there!! *yuck*
Lot of improvements to be done!
I´m running almost the same trapspeed on 1/4mile as many 'top notch' tuned cars in here.
they´ve got this and that 'tune', been to dyno hitter and ditter..
I´m still running std program in my ecu, runs really good.
~113mph and 12.61s with lame 2.1s 60ft.
slicks would take it really near a low 12 or high 11.
Mods this winter: camshafts,evosport pulleys and inletmod(totally new inlet manifold with 82mm throttle etc etc)
And i´m planning to have reliability like an std C55
well,, i´ll maybe not reach all the way, but will i get around 470-500hp i´m happy.
I can say this,, do upgrade your heads with a decent headjob!
Lot of power there!
It´s almost a shame for AMG that they doesn´t care more for the heads.
It´s really ugly in there!! *yuck*
Lot of improvements to be done!
I´m running almost the same trapspeed on 1/4mile as many 'top notch' tuned cars in here.
they´ve got this and that 'tune', been to dyno hitter and ditter..
I´m still running std program in my ecu, runs really good.
~113mph and 12.61s with lame 2.1s 60ft.
slicks would take it really near a low 12 or high 11.
Mods this winter: camshafts,evosport pulleys and inletmod(totally new inlet manifold with 82mm throttle etc etc)
And i´m planning to have reliability like an std C55
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Last edited by swedepat; 06-19-2013 at 06:51 AM.
#24
#25
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I felt the Eurocharged tune was worth it when coupled with removal of secondaries and the resonator. Noticeable improvement on top-end.