C32 AMG, C55 AMG (W203) 2001 - 2007

Jerk in transmission, -problem solved!

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Old 09-10-2019, 07:08 AM
  #226  
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Well mine is so similar to many I guess. Sports mode, 2-1 shirt might hit me to dash time to time.springy gear shifts as well. Had my oil change and no debris and the color of the old oil was perfect. I will go for the pwm soenoid. Can someone give me a link for the upgraded solenoid?
Good luck to everyone.
Old 01-10-2020, 08:26 PM
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Hey Guys,

I did my best to comb through all the posts in this thread regarding this issue, but it was impossible.

Does this updated (blue top) solenoid really eliminate the issue? If so, it sounds like the dealership needs to install it to reset the trans. Correct? Any insight would be appreciated.

Cheers,

-Rob


Old 01-10-2020, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RPB
Hey Guys,

I did my best to comb through all the posts in this thread regarding this issue, but it was impossible.

Does this updated (blue top) solenoid really eliminate the issue? If so, it sounds like the dealership needs to install it to reset the trans. Correct? Any insight would be appreciated.

Cheers,

-Rob
It's been a while, but I know if you are having the severe jerks between shifts it's likely going to need a new transmission valve body. It's relatively straight forward and I had an indy shop install it, along with fresh solenoids. It wasn't cheap, but the car has been great now going on 6 years. knocks on wood
Old 01-10-2020, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ghiaguy
It's been a while, but I know if you are having the severe jerks between shifts it's likely going to need a new transmission valve body. It's relatively straight forward and I had an indy shop install it, along with fresh solenoids. It wasn't cheap, but the car has been great now going on 6 years. knocks on wood
Thanks for the reply. The jerk on my car is clearly evident at low speeds especially in heavy traffic. Also noticeable when pulling into a neighborhood or the entrance to a shopping center after sitting at a light.

My car has 70k on it and only acts like this when warmed up. The 2nd owner replaced the OE radiator w/ a Behr and flushed the trans fluid when it had around 53k miles. The trans reset helps, but only for a short period.

Last edited by RPB; 01-10-2020 at 11:49 PM.
Old 01-10-2020, 11:49 PM
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Yeah, I had the same symptoms for about six months and used to reset it every day. Finally had it shift so violently on the way home from work one night that it went to limp mode and popped the CEL. My local mechanic was able to tell the valve body was shot and we decided to upgrade the solenoids as well since he would already be in there. It was around a grand out the door at the time, about five or six years back iirc. My car had around 60k at the time.
Old 01-11-2020, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ghiaguy
Yeah, I had the same symptoms for about six months and used to reset it every day. Finally had it shift so violently on the way home from work one night that it went to limp mode and popped the CEL. My local mechanic was able to tell the valve body was shot and we decided to upgrade the solenoids as well since he would already be in there. It was around a grand out the door at the time, about five or six years back iirc. My car had around 60k at the time.
Interesting.. I would not class my car as shifting violently and luckily no CEL light after nearly 2 yrs of ownership. I tend to put it in manual mode in traffic.

I need to do more research. I almost feel like everyone has their own fix for the issue, but it might not be the same thing going on if that makes sense. I read a few posts which sound to be exactly like what I am experiencing.

Thanks!

Last edited by RPB; 01-11-2020 at 12:15 AM.
Old 01-12-2020, 10:56 AM
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The jerk in 1-2 gear is fixed by replacing the pwm solenoid. Most people do the conductor plate and the rest of the solenoids just because. The blue top solenoids are for quicker shifting but they are not a smooth.
Old 01-12-2020, 12:36 PM
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C55 AMG T with Kleemann K2 and some stuff: 414 hp and 576Nm :-)
The jerk isn´t between 1:st and 2:nd gear as many thinks, it´s when the lock-up grabs in. Changing the PWM-solenoid fixes this problem.
I´m on the 2:nd change.. Slippery gearbox is another symptom of faulty PWM-solenoid.
Old 01-12-2020, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by amgen
The jerk isn´t between 1:st and 2:nd gear as many thinks, it´s when the lock-up grabs in. Changing the PWM-solenoid fixes this problem.
I´m on the 2:nd change.. Slippery gearbox is another symptom of faulty PWM-solenoid.
how about the sonax kit? Pwm solenoid and the kit might solve those issues? My gear changes are kinda springy and hits badly when it goes to 2nd to 1st gear on s mode.
Old 01-12-2020, 01:43 PM
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I have no experience of the Sonax Kit.
Different solenoids in the gearbox operates different specific gears. The PWM-solenoid opreates the lock-up primarily and the gears too in a sort of "overhead function".
Old 01-12-2020, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by amgen
I have no experience of the Sonax Kit.
Different solenoids in the gearbox operates different specific gears. The PWM-solenoid opreates the lock-up primarily and the gears too in a sort of "overhead function".
thanks pal. Just dont want to replace all the solenoids, gonna be expensive. Some say that sonax sleeve kit helps about the springy shifts and which is also not expensive at all.
Old 01-13-2020, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by amgen
The jerk isn´t between 1:st and 2:nd gear as many thinks, it´s when the lock-up grabs in. Changing the PWM-solenoid fixes this problem.
I´m on the 2:nd change.. Slippery gearbox is another symptom of faulty PWM-solenoid.
its most noticable in the lower gears. You notice what my fix suggestion is.
Old 01-13-2020, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by amgen
The jerk isn´t between 1:st and 2:nd gear as many thinks, it´s when the lock-up grabs in. Changing the PWM-solenoid fixes this problem.
I´m on the 2:nd change.. Slippery gearbox is another symptom of faulty PWM-solenoid.
Can you elaborate on 'Slippery Gearbox'..? Not sure what that means.. does that mean it has a leak? or that the transmission feels like it is slipping?
I have replaced my PMW solenoid (is TCC the same thing?) and initially thought.. 'wow - fixed!' and now.. a few years later it seems the issue is back...
It's not terrible.. just a little 'bump' occasionally at lower speeds. I don't get to drive it much these days and when I do... I love that she's still got tons of juice.
Certainly not itching to get back under the pan and do solenoid switching again. Just curious really...

I've never really figured out if my 40 MPH vibration is transmission related or not. I lessened it significantly by moving to a 1MM shim on the differential (from the 3MM stock? - I think). Thinking I should try removing it altogether and see how it feels.

I still have the Valeo radiator (had the trans fluid checked a few times for contamination - all good each time) and always wonder.
Anyway, interesting to see this thread come back. Good to know what others are experiencing.


Old 01-14-2020, 09:58 AM
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C55 AMG T with Kleemann K2 and some stuff: 414 hp and 576Nm :-)
The lock-up-function gives you almost a direct drive, with engine breaking when you let off the throttle for example.
If the PWM-solenoid is not working as it should it will not lock up as intended with a slippery drive. You can for example
feel it when gears change and it takes some time before the new gear locks up, sometime vaguely, it feels slippery.

So apart from it behaving brutal with cold engine; as soon from start it locking up for the first time, it can also behave
"slippery" as stated above if not functioning properly. If it´s harsh OR vague, change the solenoid!

Yes, I started this thread years ago! The problems are not uncommon with the 5-speed gearbox obviously...
Old 01-22-2020, 04:58 PM
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For all the people that had solenoid issues (TC solenoid, etc.), were the rough shifts more pronounced when the engine was cold?

My car's rough shifts are very noticeable when cold, but once the car warms up, it shifts a lot smoother. Not perfectly, but much better than when cold. My car has sort of a "slippery" gear change from 1st to second gear as well, particularly when accelerating quickly from a stop.

Thanks!
Old 01-24-2020, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by nkx1
For all the people that had solenoid issues (TC solenoid, etc.), were the rough shifts more pronounced when the engine was cold?

My car's rough shifts are very noticeable when cold, but once the car warms up, it shifts a lot smoother. Not perfectly, but much better than when cold. My car has sort of a "slippery" gear change from 1st to second gear as well, particularly when accelerating quickly from a stop.

Thanks!
This has been covered in this thread many times. I noticed you list a clk 550 in your signature. I believe that has a 722.9 transmission and is not the same as all the 722.6 trans discussed here.
Old 01-24-2020, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by insame1
This has been covered in this thread many times. I noticed you list a clk 550 in your signature. I believe that has a 722.9 transmission and is not the same as all the 722.6 trans discussed here.
This might be a new thread question but I have a vibration that's RPM based, seems most prominent around 1500 RPM.
Definitely feels like driveline as at the same speed after it upshifts, the vibration goes away.

I did change the driveshaft mounts as I was getting acceleration vibration in the driveline. Guibos were torn up pretty good. Replaced the driveshaft bearing too.

I also have the jerk when the the TC locks up around 1800RPM or so.
Sometimes it will even lurch like i'm pressing the throttle in and letting go really fast over and over(within a second).

I'm thinking bad TC, I don't think the TC solenoid not applying enough pressure would cause a vibration but I ordered it anyways.

Any ideas?
Old 01-24-2020, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by insame1
This has been covered in this thread many times. I noticed you list a clk 550 in your signature. I believe that has a 722.9 transmission and is not the same as all the 722.6 trans discussed here.
I've read this and other threads, and wasn't able to get a feel for whether the TC solenoid issue was more prevalent when cold. So the question still stands if anyone cares to answer. I would really appreciate some feedback either way.

Also, you're correct, my car does have the 722.9 transmission. However, conceptually the issue is basically the same. Both have a solenoids that open and close to facilitate shifting.

Old 03-08-2020, 10:56 AM
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Massive thankyou to all the peeps on this thread, i replaced my pwn tc solenoid last night and its cured my jerky gearbox which ive been putting up with for 2yrs lol.

Cant believe how smooth my e55 wagon is now.

All the Best Gav from the Uk
Old 03-08-2020, 11:16 AM
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C55 AMG T with Kleemann K2 and some stuff: 414 hp and 576Nm :-)
Congratulations!!
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Old 03-08-2020, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by cgmotorfactors
Massive thankyou to all the peeps on this thread, i replaced my pwn tc solenoid last night and its cured my jerky gearbox which ive been putting up with for 2yrs lol.

Cant believe how smooth my e55 wagon is now.

All the Best Gav from the Uk

Hi Gav,

I'm pretty certain I have the same issue. I've posted on here before and I too have been putting up with this for almost two years. How much did changing the pwm solenoid cost you? Part and labour? Also how long have you been driving around since you replaced.

Thanks
Old 04-21-2020, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by amgen
I had a couple of years ago an amateur change my transmission oil.
Big mistake...

After that, I experienced a sudden jerk (like you´re hit from behind) at low
speed when engine and transmission were cold. After warm-up it dissappeared.

Couldn´t live with that so I let a transmissionspecialist look into it.

He took the gearbox off and changed following parts:

-converter
-both "freewheels"
-1:st, 3:rd and 4:th gears (3:rd gear looked burnt, the edges on the others
wasn´t edgesharp)
-conductorplate
-oil & filter
-all gaskets
-a greasevalve.

Got it back but the jerk was still there, but less violent.

Then he suggested to change the solenoid in the gearbox as well.

After that the gearbox performs brilliant without any jerks!!!
It goes like a dream now, really.

I suspect that loose dirt hit the solenoid at the first oilchange.

Voila, problem solved!

(It didn´t come cheap though...)
Hey guys! I have the same problem on my car for a couple of months now! Took the car in service 3 times and they said nothing is wrong or they couldn’t replicate the problem (violent jerking when I try to accelerate). Took the car again today after reading your post, hopefully they find the error with the solenoid which explains everything! I’ll let you know!
Old 04-23-2020, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Gooner1989
Hi Gav,

I'm pretty certain I have the same issue. I've posted on here before and I too have been putting up with this for almost two years. How much did changing the pwm solenoid cost you? Part and labour? Also how long have you been driving around since you replaced.

Thanks
Hi Sorry for the late reply, I've driven around 400 miles since the change and she is sooooo super smooth, A friend was that impressed he got me to do his c220 cdi too and that was also super smooth afterwoods seriously if some had said they had fitted a new gearbox to my car i wouldn't had disbelieved them.

The solenoid was £60 GBP factor in fluid gasket pan bolts must be around £150 gbp well worth doing
Old 06-03-2020, 02:46 AM
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Thank this threads, it is helpful!

Last edited by laiayo; 06-15-2020 at 02:11 AM.
Old 07-11-2020, 02:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Agent-A01
This might be a new thread question but I have a vibration that's RPM based, seems most prominent around 1500 RPM.
Definitely feels like driveline as at the same speed after it upshifts, the vibration goes away.

I did change the driveshaft mounts as I was getting acceleration vibration in the driveline. Guibos were torn up pretty good. Replaced the driveshaft bearing too.

I also have the jerk when the the TC locks up around 1800RPM or so.
Sometimes it will even lurch like i'm pressing the throttle in and letting go really fast over and over(within a second).

I'm thinking bad TC, I don't think the TC solenoid not applying enough pressure would cause a vibration but I ordered it anyways.

Any ideas?
Did you solve the multiple jumps issue? I have same problem with my e55.


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