Jerk in transmission, -problem solved!
#226
Well mine is so similar to many I guess. Sports mode, 2-1 shirt might hit me to dash time to time.springy gear shifts as well. Had my oil change and no debris and the color of the old oil was perfect. I will go for the pwm soenoid. Can someone give me a link for the upgraded solenoid?
Good luck to everyone.
Good luck to everyone.
#227
Hey Guys,
I did my best to comb through all the posts in this thread regarding this issue, but it was impossible.
Does this updated (blue top) solenoid really eliminate the issue? If so, it sounds like the dealership needs to install it to reset the trans. Correct? Any insight would be appreciated.
Cheers,
-Rob
I did my best to comb through all the posts in this thread regarding this issue, but it was impossible.
Does this updated (blue top) solenoid really eliminate the issue? If so, it sounds like the dealership needs to install it to reset the trans. Correct? Any insight would be appreciated.
Cheers,
-Rob
#228
MBWorld Fanatic!
Hey Guys,
I did my best to comb through all the posts in this thread regarding this issue, but it was impossible.
Does this updated (blue top) solenoid really eliminate the issue? If so, it sounds like the dealership needs to install it to reset the trans. Correct? Any insight would be appreciated.
Cheers,
-Rob
I did my best to comb through all the posts in this thread regarding this issue, but it was impossible.
Does this updated (blue top) solenoid really eliminate the issue? If so, it sounds like the dealership needs to install it to reset the trans. Correct? Any insight would be appreciated.
Cheers,
-Rob
#229
It's been a while, but I know if you are having the severe jerks between shifts it's likely going to need a new transmission valve body. It's relatively straight forward and I had an indy shop install it, along with fresh solenoids. It wasn't cheap, but the car has been great now going on 6 years. knocks on wood
My car has 70k on it and only acts like this when warmed up. The 2nd owner replaced the OE radiator w/ a Behr and flushed the trans fluid when it had around 53k miles. The trans reset helps, but only for a short period.
Last edited by RPB; 01-10-2020 at 11:49 PM.
#230
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yeah, I had the same symptoms for about six months and used to reset it every day. Finally had it shift so violently on the way home from work one night that it went to limp mode and popped the CEL. My local mechanic was able to tell the valve body was shot and we decided to upgrade the solenoids as well since he would already be in there. It was around a grand out the door at the time, about five or six years back iirc. My car had around 60k at the time.
#231
Yeah, I had the same symptoms for about six months and used to reset it every day. Finally had it shift so violently on the way home from work one night that it went to limp mode and popped the CEL. My local mechanic was able to tell the valve body was shot and we decided to upgrade the solenoids as well since he would already be in there. It was around a grand out the door at the time, about five or six years back iirc. My car had around 60k at the time.
I need to do more research. I almost feel like everyone has their own fix for the issue, but it might not be the same thing going on if that makes sense. I read a few posts which sound to be exactly like what I am experiencing.
Thanks!
Last edited by RPB; 01-11-2020 at 12:15 AM.
#232
MBWorld Fanatic!
The jerk in 1-2 gear is fixed by replacing the pwm solenoid. Most people do the conductor plate and the rest of the solenoids just because. The blue top solenoids are for quicker shifting but they are not a smooth.
#233
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The jerk isn´t between 1:st and 2:nd gear as many thinks, it´s when the lock-up grabs in. Changing the PWM-solenoid fixes this problem.
I´m on the 2:nd change.. Slippery gearbox is another symptom of faulty PWM-solenoid.
I´m on the 2:nd change.. Slippery gearbox is another symptom of faulty PWM-solenoid.
#234
#235
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I have no experience of the Sonax Kit.
Different solenoids in the gearbox operates different specific gears. The PWM-solenoid opreates the lock-up primarily and the gears too in a sort of "overhead function".
Different solenoids in the gearbox operates different specific gears. The PWM-solenoid opreates the lock-up primarily and the gears too in a sort of "overhead function".
#236
thanks pal. Just dont want to replace all the solenoids, gonna be expensive. Some say that sonax sleeve kit helps about the springy shifts and which is also not expensive at all.
#237
MBWorld Fanatic!
its most noticable in the lower gears. You notice what my fix suggestion is.
#238
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 116
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02 C32, 03 ML55
I have replaced my PMW solenoid (is TCC the same thing?) and initially thought.. 'wow - fixed!' and now.. a few years later it seems the issue is back...
It's not terrible.. just a little 'bump' occasionally at lower speeds. I don't get to drive it much these days and when I do... I love that she's still got tons of juice.
Certainly not itching to get back under the pan and do solenoid switching again. Just curious really...
I've never really figured out if my 40 MPH vibration is transmission related or not. I lessened it significantly by moving to a 1MM shim on the differential (from the 3MM stock? - I think). Thinking I should try removing it altogether and see how it feels.
I still have the Valeo radiator (had the trans fluid checked a few times for contamination - all good each time) and always wonder.
Anyway, interesting to see this thread come back. Good to know what others are experiencing.
#239
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The lock-up-function gives you almost a direct drive, with engine breaking when you let off the throttle for example.
If the PWM-solenoid is not working as it should it will not lock up as intended with a slippery drive. You can for example
feel it when gears change and it takes some time before the new gear locks up, sometime vaguely, it feels slippery.
So apart from it behaving brutal with cold engine; as soon from start it locking up for the first time, it can also behave
"slippery" as stated above if not functioning properly. If it´s harsh OR vague, change the solenoid!
Yes, I started this thread years ago! The problems are not uncommon with the 5-speed gearbox obviously...
If the PWM-solenoid is not working as it should it will not lock up as intended with a slippery drive. You can for example
feel it when gears change and it takes some time before the new gear locks up, sometime vaguely, it feels slippery.
So apart from it behaving brutal with cold engine; as soon from start it locking up for the first time, it can also behave
"slippery" as stated above if not functioning properly. If it´s harsh OR vague, change the solenoid!
Yes, I started this thread years ago! The problems are not uncommon with the 5-speed gearbox obviously...
#240
Senior Member
For all the people that had solenoid issues (TC solenoid, etc.), were the rough shifts more pronounced when the engine was cold?
My car's rough shifts are very noticeable when cold, but once the car warms up, it shifts a lot smoother. Not perfectly, but much better than when cold. My car has sort of a "slippery" gear change from 1st to second gear as well, particularly when accelerating quickly from a stop.
Thanks!
My car's rough shifts are very noticeable when cold, but once the car warms up, it shifts a lot smoother. Not perfectly, but much better than when cold. My car has sort of a "slippery" gear change from 1st to second gear as well, particularly when accelerating quickly from a stop.
Thanks!
#241
MBWorld Fanatic!
For all the people that had solenoid issues (TC solenoid, etc.), were the rough shifts more pronounced when the engine was cold?
My car's rough shifts are very noticeable when cold, but once the car warms up, it shifts a lot smoother. Not perfectly, but much better than when cold. My car has sort of a "slippery" gear change from 1st to second gear as well, particularly when accelerating quickly from a stop.
Thanks!
My car's rough shifts are very noticeable when cold, but once the car warms up, it shifts a lot smoother. Not perfectly, but much better than when cold. My car has sort of a "slippery" gear change from 1st to second gear as well, particularly when accelerating quickly from a stop.
Thanks!
#242
Senior Member
Definitely feels like driveline as at the same speed after it upshifts, the vibration goes away.
I did change the driveshaft mounts as I was getting acceleration vibration in the driveline. Guibos were torn up pretty good. Replaced the driveshaft bearing too.
I also have the jerk when the the TC locks up around 1800RPM or so.
Sometimes it will even lurch like i'm pressing the throttle in and letting go really fast over and over(within a second).
I'm thinking bad TC, I don't think the TC solenoid not applying enough pressure would cause a vibration but I ordered it anyways.
Any ideas?
#243
Senior Member
Also, you're correct, my car does have the 722.9 transmission. However, conceptually the issue is basically the same. Both have a solenoids that open and close to facilitate shifting.
#244
Massive thankyou to all the peeps on this thread, i replaced my pwn tc solenoid last night and its cured my jerky gearbox which ive been putting up with for 2yrs lol.
Cant believe how smooth my e55 wagon is now.
All the Best Gav from the Uk
Cant believe how smooth my e55 wagon is now.
All the Best Gav from the Uk
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cgmotorfactors (03-08-2020)
#246
Hi Gav,
I'm pretty certain I have the same issue. I've posted on here before and I too have been putting up with this for almost two years. How much did changing the pwm solenoid cost you? Part and labour? Also how long have you been driving around since you replaced.
Thanks
#247
Junior Member
2015 C300 4matic
I had a couple of years ago an amateur change my transmission oil.
Big mistake...
After that, I experienced a sudden jerk (like you´re hit from behind) at low
speed when engine and transmission were cold. After warm-up it dissappeared.
Couldn´t live with that so I let a transmissionspecialist look into it.
He took the gearbox off and changed following parts:
-converter
-both "freewheels"
-1:st, 3:rd and 4:th gears (3:rd gear looked burnt, the edges on the others
wasn´t edgesharp)
-conductorplate
-oil & filter
-all gaskets
-a greasevalve.
Got it back but the jerk was still there, but less violent.
Then he suggested to change the solenoid in the gearbox as well.
After that the gearbox performs brilliant without any jerks!!!
It goes like a dream now, really.
I suspect that loose dirt hit the solenoid at the first oilchange.
Voila, problem solved!
(It didn´t come cheap though...)
Big mistake...
After that, I experienced a sudden jerk (like you´re hit from behind) at low
speed when engine and transmission were cold. After warm-up it dissappeared.
Couldn´t live with that so I let a transmissionspecialist look into it.
He took the gearbox off and changed following parts:
-converter
-both "freewheels"
-1:st, 3:rd and 4:th gears (3:rd gear looked burnt, the edges on the others
wasn´t edgesharp)
-conductorplate
-oil & filter
-all gaskets
-a greasevalve.
Got it back but the jerk was still there, but less violent.
Then he suggested to change the solenoid in the gearbox as well.
After that the gearbox performs brilliant without any jerks!!!
It goes like a dream now, really.
I suspect that loose dirt hit the solenoid at the first oilchange.
Voila, problem solved!
(It didn´t come cheap though...)
#248
Hi Gav,
I'm pretty certain I have the same issue. I've posted on here before and I too have been putting up with this for almost two years. How much did changing the pwm solenoid cost you? Part and labour? Also how long have you been driving around since you replaced.
Thanks
I'm pretty certain I have the same issue. I've posted on here before and I too have been putting up with this for almost two years. How much did changing the pwm solenoid cost you? Part and labour? Also how long have you been driving around since you replaced.
Thanks
The solenoid was £60 GBP factor in fluid gasket pan bolts must be around £150 gbp well worth doing
#250
This might be a new thread question but I have a vibration that's RPM based, seems most prominent around 1500 RPM.
Definitely feels like driveline as at the same speed after it upshifts, the vibration goes away.
I did change the driveshaft mounts as I was getting acceleration vibration in the driveline. Guibos were torn up pretty good. Replaced the driveshaft bearing too.
I also have the jerk when the the TC locks up around 1800RPM or so.
Sometimes it will even lurch like i'm pressing the throttle in and letting go really fast over and over(within a second).
I'm thinking bad TC, I don't think the TC solenoid not applying enough pressure would cause a vibration but I ordered it anyways.
Any ideas?
Definitely feels like driveline as at the same speed after it upshifts, the vibration goes away.
I did change the driveshaft mounts as I was getting acceleration vibration in the driveline. Guibos were torn up pretty good. Replaced the driveshaft bearing too.
I also have the jerk when the the TC locks up around 1800RPM or so.
Sometimes it will even lurch like i'm pressing the throttle in and letting go really fast over and over(within a second).
I'm thinking bad TC, I don't think the TC solenoid not applying enough pressure would cause a vibration but I ordered it anyways.
Any ideas?