cm60k

"140 277 04 35" is the old #, it's replaced to new # should be "240 270 17 00"..



ZAYED,,

jneal3110

whoops, you're right - the 240 270 16 00 number is from rmeuropean, which is where I first looked; ended up (see post #16 in this thread) getting it from mbpartsworld. It was definitely the right part (1402770435, item #35 in the pic), and I was definitely able to get it separately from the valve body.

insame1

post 62 should have all the correct updated part numbers.

crembz

I've been following this thread for some time now and I'm about to get the solenoid swapped out on Monday. Only difference with my symptoms is it seems to do it cold or warm, seems slightly less when warm but still very noticeable. I had the fluid tested for glycol and came back negative so I'm doing the solenoid. I'll let you know if it fixes the jerk.

ghiaguy

Great man, I appreciate it! Good luck!!

crembz

By the looks of it the post I ended up getting is 240 270 16 00. Looks like this is a brown top pressure solenoid not a tcc pwm solenoid ... Dammit!

cm60k

*Brown top solenoid # is: "203 270 00 89"



*TCC/PWM Solenoid # is: "240 270 17 00"



ZAYED,,

crembz

OK so I have no idea what I've been sent. i ordered the transmission solenoid listed on rmautohaus. kinda looks like a the tcc solenoid but the top valve in your pic is brown. Damn looks like i need to order another part.

cm60k

Did you ordered the solenoid by the part # or by the picture...?

ZAYED,,

crembz

Ordered by browsing through the site and drilling down to the transmission solenoid.
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Transmission-Solenoid-Valve-__2402701600_GEN_5C1313F8.aspx

cm60k

Yes sure, this is a correct TCC solenoid..

ZAYED,,

crembz

So you're saying this is the correct part? Fantastic!!! thanks mate. So it should swap out no problem. Got the indie working on it today. Hopefully it fixes the jerk and I can move onto a TCU tune.


I wonder why the part number is different ... any ideas?

cm60k

It could be, but i'm not that sure if this TCC will cure your trans. jerk..!,

did you diagnose the car to make sure the jerking caused by TCC solenoid..?,

i don't know why the put 16 00, it should be 17 00, they may mistakenly put 16...!!

ZAYED,,

crembz

Yeah it sounds similar to what people are describing here. Jerk at around 1600rpm during slow acceleration (eg. in traffic). Can't feel it if you accelerate hard. Only difference is it does not seem to get better once the car is warm like people are reporting. It's much more noticeable in 'W'. Also does not seem to disengage the TCC when you come off the accelerator at times.


My indie is checking it today and he's not the sort of person to swap parts out unless they are diagnosed faulty. I've done a glycol test and that came back negative.

crembz

OK so turns out I ended up with a shift solenoid not a tcc (pwm) solenoid. Apparently there are 6 solenoids all up in the transmission. Make sure you order the right one

cm60k

There are "3" shift solenoids:-

A) 1>2/4>5

B) 3>4

C) 2>3



ZAYED,,

crembz

So my indie found a fault code ... P2600 ... which threw them a little. His transmission specialist isn't convinced it's the tcc solenoid and wants to open up the pan and test wiring and resistances of 'stuff'. Thing is from what I can find P2600 refers to low voltage which is normally attributed to a flat battery (which did happen a few weeks ago when I detailed the car with the stereo running).


I'm thinking of telling them to do the solenoid anyway if they're dropping the pan, most of the cost is in dropping the pan and the new fluid anyway so might as well chuck the solenoid in also.


He also swapped out the superchager pulley bearing with the NSK bearing I supplied ... all noise gone. I dunno if it's my imagination but the jerk seemed less noticeable with the new sc bearing. Time will tell.

jneal3110

It is.

Correct; I just wish I had my indie do the 1-2 shift solenoid at the same time he did the tcc, the 'jerk' had masked a mildly balky 1-2 shift when cold.

I did the same thing myself after having my trans work done. All I know is the tcc solenoid replacement completely eliminated the jerk over the entire operating range, regardless of temperature; changing the sc bearing made the engine sound beautiful but did not have an effect on shifting or tc lock. I had the same experience you did; before the fix, the jerk was terrible at cold start up, got tolerable once warm but did not completely go away, and when accelerating hard it was least noticeable.

Hope you end up with the same result I did. My car feels bullet-proof now, almost like new...

btw what did he charge to change out the bearing? I did it myself and am wondering what $ I saved.

crembz

Cost me AU$140 for the bearing replacement.

Just wondering whether the part # for the tcc solenoid is the same for an au c32 as it is for a us c32. Reason I ask is that I've tried ordering some body parts from genuinemercedesparts.com and they've told me my VIN was non-us and gave me a different part #. The part was much dearer and I suspect they were going to source it from Europe.

Lenin

For certain parts (body, interior) there are two versions - Right-handed and Left-handed. But not for the solenoid.

K3nD

not sure if I'm the only one having this problem here when it comes to replacing this solenoid. I've talk to several merc indy mechanics here and none of them is willing to do the work. a couple of them said that I have to get this done through the dealership directly and when I called the dealership they told me that I would have to replace the whole Valve Body. one shop said that they would like to do a few testing before they can perform the repair but I'm concern that they might try to con me into replacing a different part and not the solenoid and ultimately not resolving my issue. the replacement/repair seems pretty straight forward so I don't understand why none would take the job.. Has anyone tried a DIY for this? Maybe someone here is from the PWN (pacific northwest) that can recommend a decent shop that can preform this repair?

jneal3110

Hey, did you ever look into DIY'ing this? Might help K3nD find a mechanic who would do this if he could show someone he trusts how straightforward it is. I just didn't want to deal with the trans-fluid mess while lying on my back, otherwise this doesn't seem difficult.

C230 Mulac

Hey, I actually found a DIY on the benzworld.org forum with a lot of pictures and reviewed it. It was very useful, but I didn't actually do the DIY yet. I'll see if I can find it again.

It's not an extremely difficult job, but it's definitely very tricky. What I mean by tricky is that you have to be REALLY, REALLY CAREFUL to not get any dust particles onto the valve body, not even the slightest speck. Have about 10 pairs of surgical latex gloves to do the job and have a clean pair on when dropping and working on the valve body. You probably should only do it inside a garage with the door closed just to be sure you don't get anything on the valve body. I'm basing this off of what I read on the DIY. Let me see if I can find it again.

C230 Mulac

Here it is: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...tor-plate.html

The guy replaced a lot of other stuff too, but it details the solenoid replacement well.

jneal3110

wow - a great DIY post but not without a hoist...