Jerk in transmission, -problem solved!
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I wonder why the part number is different ... any ideas?




did you diagnose the car to make sure the jerking caused by TCC solenoid..?,
i don't know why the put 16 00, it should be 17 00, they may mistakenly put 16...!!
ZAYED,,
My indie is checking it today and he's not the sort of person to swap parts out unless they are diagnosed faulty. I've done a glycol test and that came back negative.
I'm thinking of telling them to do the solenoid anyway if they're dropping the pan, most of the cost is in dropping the pan and the new fluid anyway so might as well chuck the solenoid in also.
He also swapped out the superchager pulley bearing with the NSK bearing I supplied ... all noise gone. I dunno if it's my imagination but the jerk seemed less noticeable with the new sc bearing. Time will tell.
Hope you end up with the same result I did. My car feels bullet-proof now, almost like new...
btw what did he charge to change out the bearing? I did it myself and am wondering what $ I saved.
Just wondering whether the part # for the tcc solenoid is the same for an au c32 as it is for a us c32. Reason I ask is that I've tried ordering some body parts from genuinemercedesparts.com and they've told me my VIN was non-us and gave me a different part #. The part was much dearer and I suspect they were going to source it from Europe.

Just wondering whether the part # for the tcc solenoid is the same for an au c32 as it is for a us c32. Reason I ask is that I've tried ordering some body parts from genuinemercedesparts.com and they've told me my VIN was non-us and gave me a different part #. The part was much dearer and I suspect they were going to source it from Europe.
So a little over $400...I guess for $255 labor they are figuring 2.5-3 hours. That's not too terrible of a price...still enough to make me want to save the $ and do it myself, I'll have to research this. If I can figure it out, I will post a DIY for everyone here.
It's not an extremely difficult job, but it's definitely very tricky. What I mean by tricky is that you have to be REALLY, REALLY CAREFUL to not get any dust particles onto the valve body, not even the slightest speck. Have about 10 pairs of surgical latex gloves to do the job and have a clean pair on when dropping and working on the valve body. You probably should only do it inside a garage with the door closed just to be sure you don't get anything on the valve body. I'm basing this off of what I read on the DIY. Let me see if I can find it again.
The guy replaced a lot of other stuff too, but it details the solenoid replacement well.
The guy replaced a lot of other stuff too, but it details the solenoid replacement well.











