Problems With Rear Brakes
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 522
Likes: 15
2002 C32AMG
Problems With Rear Brakes
Hello All
I'm in a bit of a bind. My car's in the garage on jack stands right now and will stay there until I can get the right/rear caliper back on.
The other day I was getting a squealing noise from the rear passenger side wheel and the rotor was looking a bit scored so I assumed it was time for new pads. I was unable to remove the pads from the top on either side so I figured why not pull off the caliper and push them out from the back side.
The drivers side came apart pretty easily but I still had to carefully beat the pads out from the bottom through the top with a hammer. They came out and the pistons looked good (but old). I installed the new pads and hung the caliper torquing it down very snugly.
The passengers side pretty much came a part just as easily as the drivers side but I to use more force to break the caliper bolts loose. Turns out this extra force stripped the first couple of threads from the caliper bracket
When I get the hole of the caliper lined up with the hole of the bracket the bolt falls all the way in the hole and does not grab any threads no matter how hard I push or angle the bolt/caliper. I tried the bolts from the driver's side and they wouldn't grab any threads either. I then tried the the bolts from the passengers side on the drivers side and they bottomed out on the threads right away and snugged up as expected.
My questions are:
- will similar but longer bolts from a local hardware store for the passengers side be a suitable workaround?
- what grade/thread/pitch will I need?
- are these caliper bolts reusable or do I need to replace them every time after removing the calipers?
thanks a lot
I'm in a bit of a bind. My car's in the garage on jack stands right now and will stay there until I can get the right/rear caliper back on.
The other day I was getting a squealing noise from the rear passenger side wheel and the rotor was looking a bit scored so I assumed it was time for new pads. I was unable to remove the pads from the top on either side so I figured why not pull off the caliper and push them out from the back side.
The drivers side came apart pretty easily but I still had to carefully beat the pads out from the bottom through the top with a hammer. They came out and the pistons looked good (but old). I installed the new pads and hung the caliper torquing it down very snugly.
The passengers side pretty much came a part just as easily as the drivers side but I to use more force to break the caliper bolts loose. Turns out this extra force stripped the first couple of threads from the caliper bracket
When I get the hole of the caliper lined up with the hole of the bracket the bolt falls all the way in the hole and does not grab any threads no matter how hard I push or angle the bolt/caliper. I tried the bolts from the driver's side and they wouldn't grab any threads either. I then tried the the bolts from the passengers side on the drivers side and they bottomed out on the threads right away and snugged up as expected.My questions are:
- will similar but longer bolts from a local hardware store for the passengers side be a suitable workaround?
- what grade/thread/pitch will I need?
- are these caliper bolts reusable or do I need to replace them every time after removing the calipers?
thanks a lot
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,053
Likes: 398
From: A.D., U.A.E
2000 (W202 C200) & 2000 (W202 C55)
Rear calipers doesn't have any threads, front only,
threads in the Axle hub itself, it's line-up directly,
Rear caliper bolts should be, (M10 dia. X 1.5mm thread X 30mm long/length),
if you get longer bolts(more than 32mm), they will hit the brake shoe, then damage it while driving,,
you can use stock bolts, no need to get new, unless something wrong with thread/spread...!
ZAYED,,
threads in the Axle hub itself, it's line-up directly,
Rear caliper bolts should be, (M10 dia. X 1.5mm thread X 30mm long/length),
if you get longer bolts(more than 32mm), they will hit the brake shoe, then damage it while driving,,
you can use stock bolts, no need to get new, unless something wrong with thread/spread...!
ZAYED,,
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 522
Likes: 15
2002 C32AMG
Hey Zayed
Thanks for the reply. Yes, the caliper isn't threaded. I stripped out the first 2-4 threads in the hub. The factory bolts are no longer gripping the threads now that they've been stripped out so I figured the quickest resolution is to get longer bolts.
Today I purchased (2) M10X1.5mm X 40mm case hardened (10.8) flange bolts and 8 washers. I got everything hand tight in less than a minute and it fit well. I only had 10mins to work on it tonight but tomorrow when I have more time I'll remove 1 washers per bolt so that only 3 are on and see if that gives me enough bolt/thread action without the bolt hitting the dust shield.
I really think it'll work but I'm starting to get paranoid the caliper will come flying off one day and then I'll be in deep **** so I'm considering taking it down the street to a local shop to have it re-tapped for M12 or have a helicoil/timesert installed. What's your opinion?
Should I use red or blue thread locker? To put it back together?
Am I an accident waiting to happen by having only half the threads on the back right hub? Or am I being overly paranoid.
thx again
Thanks for the reply. Yes, the caliper isn't threaded. I stripped out the first 2-4 threads in the hub. The factory bolts are no longer gripping the threads now that they've been stripped out so I figured the quickest resolution is to get longer bolts.
Today I purchased (2) M10X1.5mm X 40mm case hardened (10.8) flange bolts and 8 washers. I got everything hand tight in less than a minute and it fit well. I only had 10mins to work on it tonight but tomorrow when I have more time I'll remove 1 washers per bolt so that only 3 are on and see if that gives me enough bolt/thread action without the bolt hitting the dust shield.
I really think it'll work but I'm starting to get paranoid the caliper will come flying off one day and then I'll be in deep **** so I'm considering taking it down the street to a local shop to have it re-tapped for M12 or have a helicoil/timesert installed. What's your opinion?
Should I use red or blue thread locker? To put it back together?
Am I an accident waiting to happen by having only half the threads on the back right hub? Or am I being overly paranoid.
thx again
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,053
Likes: 398
From: A.D., U.A.E
2000 (W202 C200) & 2000 (W202 C55)
Ah, sorry, little misunderstanding..
loud is lower in Rears compare it to Fronts, but it will be little scary with continuous hard braking, more washers = more slipping, during to the soft surface,
i prefer to make it M12, done it many times, MB replace almost all their models from M10 to M12, from 2004 till now,
it will be more more safer & easy to find M12 OEM screws as well,,
yes sure you can use threadlocker, but as i know; Red is strong one, Blue will be enough, it's medium strength, and more easier to open it futurley..
ZAYED,,
loud is lower in Rears compare it to Fronts, but it will be little scary with continuous hard braking, more washers = more slipping, during to the soft surface,
i prefer to make it M12, done it many times, MB replace almost all their models from M10 to M12, from 2004 till now,
it will be more more safer & easy to find M12 OEM screws as well,,
yes sure you can use threadlocker, but as i know; Red is strong one, Blue will be enough, it's medium strength, and more easier to open it futurley..
ZAYED,,
