Debating on a C55




You want to take a car that's 10 years newer, with a nicer interior, newer technology, newer navigation and amenities, and you have the 350, not the lower 250 or 300. Keep your C350, that's a nice car.
If you are dying for an AMG and a V8, you should be dumping your (older) GL350 and looking at an ML63, the prices on those are fairly good nowadays.




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So if you're really interested in one, be preparred to drive to get it. Heck, be preparred to drive just to test drive one. I'm waiting for a low mileage C55 and 05/06 manual GTO(~15,500 made but a RIDICULOUS # of them totalled) to pop up nearby just to test drive back to back on a weekend I'm not busy so I can finally make up my mind. When it comes time to actually buy, I have no problem driving out 500+ miles to pick it up. I just hope whoever drives me there doesn't





Sure, the guy that waxes twice a month and oil changes every 3500 miles is gonna have a nice, protected finish and healthy engine, but there's more to a car then that. 10 years and 150k miles of 0-100 degree temperature changes, road debris, and wear and tear add up. A dented and ding 2 year/15k mile car still has near factory fresh rubber hoses, shocks, tightened clips and just overall tightness. I can still undo most of whatever damage they did. You can always maintain, but that's exactly what you're doing. You can't reverse aging. At 150k miles, a motor scares me, but so does the a bad cat/rear wheel stud/ front right caliper/strut nut.
I know where a 12k mile Mach 1 is for very cheap and looks mint in pictures, but even then being run that little isn't good either. Without fluids flowing things aren't lubricated, rubber rots, condensation builds up where it shouldn't, and it can be nearly as bad for a car. I'm tempted to say forget having a quality interior and pull the trigger, but I'd have to go over it with a fine tooth comb first.
It's probably not realistic to expect a 10 year old car to be in perfect condition when it goes up for sale, but of course we all try to find the ones that are babied.
Engine mounts: The tip-off is a lot of vibration through the pedals at idle. The ultimate test is to open the hood, hold the brake, and rev the engine. If that big chunk of aluminum tries to jump out of the engine bay, you know you need new mounts!





If dealers were enthusiasts, we'd all be screwed. I've thought about becoming a car salesman actually, but my knoweledge wouldn't come in handy for like 90% of sell me "a car" buyers.





