it is from the clk350/550 you can do a google search and find the part number.

 

My car made 404HP and 412lb/ft with the larger air intakes, renntech airbox and remap.

 

Thanks for all the comments! These air intake tubes are from a clk350 and the part numbers are: A 273 090 01 82 and A273 090 00 82. They were $59 each at the dealer, but you can find them online from like $49 each. There is no difference in sound or performance as far as I can tell; as above, it still feeds into the same size airbox. I primarily did this mod just as a preventative thing since my buddy's C55 tubes had started to get holes in the bends.

 

I used the guide on the forums here: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/339072-diy-detailed-h-r-spring-install-pictures-20-easy-steps.html

 

Most likely no, on a stock airbox.

 

The smoked side markers arrived today. Just a small change that seems to make a huge difference! I thought about coating the OEM markers with night shade or a similar tinting paint, but I decided to just buy some already smoked!

 

The CLK63BS rear sway bar I ordered showed up at the dealership today so I came home and installed that.





Luckily it was only about a 30 minute project, very straight forward!




Old one out on the bottom, new one on the top going in!

Two reasons I wanted to do this mod. One is because I have read various other threads of it being a performance improvement over the stock one. The other reason I switched it out is because it has a second hump that will allow me to run the exhaust as a true dual for more air flow.

Hopefully I will get the exhaust done next week!

 

Finally got some pictures taken, it's a fairly simple idea!

The first step is I either jack the car up from the front jack point or the differential in the rear.





Front Jack Point

Then I simply position my Jack stands under the rubber feet on the sides!




Then I simply lower it down. This has always worked for me and I know many other members that do it the same way!

 

Thanks man. I dono how I can applaud or repay you for that valuable info. It seems dumb to ask but I have a similar type of jack stand and I was wondering how to position it in the front rubber mount pads so as to prevent it falling off and damaging my under carriage. I thought maybe you using a wooden block in there or those adapters on sale for that rubber pad that adapt to those jack stands that company sells.


Needta invest meself a new trolley jack. Maybe I get meself the racing 3 ton one or a normal 5 ton jack as I cant get into that front section to jack using a scissor jack nor the std MB one provided with the car,


Once again thank you. Will be doing my flex disc/coupling soon on the front of the propeller shaft so need the car up on all fours.

 

Did the CLK63 BS Sway bars help a lot with the handling?

 

Go to a hardware/lumber store and cut yourself some pressure treated 2x8 in 12-18 inch sections. You can then drive up and over these to get your jack under the car. I have to do this due to my front lip and I'm on stock suspension.

 

Wouldn't be able to tell having done springs along with it.

 

Yes, the rear feels tighter with the BS sway bar when taking corners at higher speeds. Not only is there a noticeable handling difference, but after I lowered with HR sport springs I would rub going through tight corners at higher speeds. After doing the sway bar I have not rubbed even taking the same corners at same speeds! Although as L8 apex mentioned, the BS sway and the sport springs are a killer combo!

 

Would you recommend getting BS sway bars or the thicker H&R bars?

 

No problem, happy to help! I just use my jack stands directly on those pads like I showed and have never had any problems; we use the same method with my girlfriend's clk55!

Yes, this one that we use is just a 3 ton hydraulic automotive floor jack. They do make low profile ones for lower cars if yours has springs or a lip, but this is just a standard one and works just as well! If you have a clearance issue, you can also use MRMustards method and buy some wood or rhino ramps to drive up onto first!
Like this:

 

I have never experienced the H&R sways on the car before. The reason I went with the Black Series sway is because it has a second bump allowing for dual exhaust. I got the idea from Winks911 thread at: https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...ntech-c55.html

It is good enough for me, but if you want an even tighter set-up you could go with the H&R.

 

I've got both front and rear H&R bars on my otherwise stock C55. After an Autocross event in the rain this past weekend, I'm going back to the stock rear bar - the car was too loose under power for my taste, esp. during directional transitions. I'll let you know later what the H&R front bar and the OEM rear bar does for the car's balance.

Naugamanator

 

I have been thinking about this setup for a while now. I am very interested to hear what you think.

 

I received another package in the mail this evening! The top of my shift knob was all scratched up, I have no idea how!



So I bought one of the little Affalterbach toppers for it!

 

Nice! Happy with it?

Are they still for sale, from where?

I could need one out of estethics...

 

Where did you get that shifter knob??

 

Yeah, it looks nice compared to all the scratches before, it came with tape on it already and everything! I got it from formymercedes!

 

I got it from formymercedes, just do a quick Google search!

 

Don't our cars understeer so doing rear sway bar would help that out, and then leave the front stock

 

My apologies to FutureAMGXX for the digression on your thread... :>

My experience after one autocross and a track day is that going to a bigger front H&R bar has made the car more balanced, and I believe it has reduced the front understeer. Power-on oversteer is more controllable with the OEM rear bar than with the H&R. All of this is with the stock springs.

The theory is: We don't have enough static camber (I can only get 1.3 degrees with a camber bolt, and not willing to use a washer), and as the car rolls during cornering, the outside wheel leans the wrong way (positive camber), which reduces grip. A bigger front bar reduces roll, and therefore reduces the detrimental camber change, and lowers the net loss of grip. Reducing roll-induced camber change offsets the weight transfer.