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Which solenoid valves do I replace to get rid of jerk in trans?
How many questions is this guy going to post? I know I know I keep posting stuff but the truth is a lot of the old threads are complicated due to the amount of replies with different part numbers and different parts being received it not fitting, and lastly the amount of back and forth of which one to buy. I've read through it all like 12 times and I still can't figure it out.
I've been doing a bunch of reading on this crazy good thread that leads into other good threads (link above) and I've narrowed it down to two different solenoid valves that need a changin.
My 32 is an 04. The solenoid valves on the 04 and 05 c55 benefit greatly from changing the valves to the blue tops...but which ones? There's 6 SV's in the gearbox, and I need to replace two for the trans jerk solution right? The brown tops to the blue tops right?
here's a list that of the parts from that thread that confuses me 1x 140-270-11-61 Conductor Plate
8x 001-989-68-13 Transmission Gear Oil
1x 140-271-00-80 Transmission Pan Gasket
1x 140-277-00-95 Transmission Oil Filter
I have not verified these yet
1x 240 270 17 00 TCC PWM solenoid
1x 140-271-00-60 Transmission Drain Plug Seal
1x 140-991-00-55 Transmission Fluid Filler Cap Locking Pin
1x 140-589-15-21-00 Transmission Dipstick tool
I understand all of the parts list except when it comes to the two solenoid valves mentioned. Throughout the thread everyone is recommending to change out. TCC / PWM solenoid valve for the solution and then right there it says optional one or two of the Bluetop solenoid valves
OK great, replacing which one(s) gets rid of that jerk in the transmission? Do you replace 1 valves, 2 valves, 3 valves or 4 valves? Or could it be the crank position sensor like others have encountered? Maybe it's the valve body alone that just needs replacing? these are rhetorical questions as I don't want a diagnosis but you I'm sure you get the point. Lots of different testimonies but only about 3 options for a fix..
Too long, didn't read? Here is my question summarized which of these two solenoid valves get rid of the jerk in the transmission?
I wish I could help but I don’t have this issue and hope I don’t soon.
I do want to say that I highly doubt it is caused by the crank position sensor. They generally work, or they don’t, and normally fail when warm.
It’s still a good idea to replace with a Bosch and keep the known good spare in the car.
there are 3 and you have to get a trans tune to fully utilize them.
A lot of people wrote that the tune wasnt necessary to experience the smoother shifting and that a tcu reset would suffice. I'm not discrediting you as a tcu tune would be f ing awesome but its a lot of money and would only leave me wanting a ecu tune as well
For blue top I think there are 2 pressure solenoids
Our transmission are weak in shifting firm they can hold power.
Yeah my confusion was which solenoids do i replace with the blue tops and I see there are 3 different kinds of solenoid valves when i search them. So I replace the pressure solenoids which are figures 25 or 30? Which is the one that needs to be replaced with the blue tops and which are the tcc/pwm valve bodies that need to be changed? (do they need to be changed)?
Reploaded because the old thread photo wont load for me
I wish I could help but I don’t have this issue and hope I don’t soon.
I do want to say that I highly doubt it is caused by the crank position sensor. They generally work, or they don’t, and normally fail when warm.
It’s still a good idea to replace with a Bosch and keep the known good spare in the car.
It seems like taking preventative measures is overkill but make sure you arent just used to the car and might not realize the jerk is actually there.
I'll look into the bosch cps. pretty good idea as i have a box of various parts sitting in my trunk in case of anything.
Last edited by Oshkoshbigjosh; 03-18-2018 at 05:21 PM.
Search jerk in transmission. The pmw or lock out had been my problem in the past. That said I always replace all of them.
Yeah thats the thread I posted and you also contributed to the post.
I saw everyone saying they did what someone did but they never stated what exactly they did or didn't write enough steps. I did more digging and found this great thread for another class but same 722.6 trans. A DIY is not impossible for me but just need assurance and clarity to proceed. Thanks for your input, great to see your stuff from then and see you helping now. I know there are tons more noob questions to come. No one is buying my car at a junk price so I'll just throw some money at it and keep using it. I love it regardless of needing a bigger car.
I'm currently have a jerking issue from 1st to 2nd when the car is cold. I have a 2005 C55. I know we have the same 722.6 trans, but are the valve bodies different since my car is a year newer and a C55? I've bought all the parts you listed above with the exception of any solenoids or the Sonnax spring. I want to be sure I'm buying the right spring since I'm not sure if my valve body is the same as yours. I've read several threads on this as well, but I'm a bit confused like you are. I checked for transmission codes and I saw that I don't have any. Thoughts, recommendations?
I'm currently have a jerking issue from 1st to 2nd when the car is cold. I have a 2005 C55. I know we have the same 722.6 trans, but are the valve bodies different since my car is a year newer and a C55? I've bought all the parts you listed above with the exception of any solenoids or the Sonnax spring. I want to be sure I'm buying the right spring since I'm not sure if my valve body is the same as yours. I've read several threads on this as well, but I'm a bit confused like you are. I checked for transmission codes and I saw that I don't have any. Thoughts, recommendations?
From what ive read, there is a specific date/year and some specific number in which certain 5 speed trans (722.6) don't benefit from it ..I think. I know the the 04 32 and 05 55 are the ones with the most success stories so thats why I'm confident this is a solution for me. I can't even begin to try to help other 32 owners with this because its so specific. Just a heads up, all the parts listed above are for a transmission service kit. If you have recently changed your fluids, you don't really need to buy it all except for the solenoids.
I have zero codes and I don't think you should. To be honest, I think MY (not every 32 or 04 32) should have the same valve body as yours but I think the c55 ended up having the blue tops which a lot of people found out after purchasing. I'm confident I have the brown tops. This stuff is confusing, let me know how it goes for you.
Here is a listing from ebay with (i believe the correct ones for a c55 but idk for a 32) that is advertising it as the solution to the jerk. (DO NOT BUY THESE THEY ARE WAY OVERPRICED. I ONLY USED THEM AS A REFERENCE) https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMG-Mercede...9Sgsnk&vxp=mtr
For what it's worth my c55 did not blue tops. I purchased the same solenoids for my 03 c32 06 c55 and my 05 clk55. Also I never replace the springs. Just conductor plate, solenoids, pilot bushing, filter, gasket and fluid. I've head you can have your solenoids ultrasonic cleaned and they will work like new. Personally I bought remaned OE solenoids off eBay for 60 bucks last time and the worked fine.
For what it's worth my c55 did not blue tops. I purchased the same solenoids for my 03 c32 06 c55 and my 05 clk55. Also I never replace the springs. Just conductor plate, solenoids, pilot bushing, filter, gasket and fluid. I've head you can have your solenoids ultrasonic cleaned and they will work like new. Personally I bought remaned OE solenoids off eBay for 60 bucks last time and the worked fine.
I didn't buy the spring as most guides stated it wasn't necessary or no mention of it at all. As for the pilot bushing, is that preventative or necessary?
While checking eBay I came across a lot of those reconditioned/refurbished solenoid lot (all 6) around the same price you wrote. I could spend over 100 just switching out 2 brown tops for blue tops or spend 60 and get them all. Should I just get the refurb ones? They're genuine and look great but seeing as they're a critical component to the trans, I'm hesitant to slap in "used" ones
A response like this brings more clarity to my mind. Thanks
I thought the jerk usually came from bad speed sensors on the conductor plate? Up until yesterday I hadn't had any codes or had it go into limp mode, but yesterday I got limp mode and a P2203 code. "The internal check of component Y3/6n3 (speed sensor 3) has failed. I tried to clear the code with Auto Enginuity but I'm not sure if it did. The car came out of limp mode after that so its possible I was able to clear it. At this point I'm just wondering if I should be buying solenoids to replace while I'm in there or if I would get a specific code if I had a failure with one of them. I've seen alot of people just do the fluid, filter, conductor plate, and pilot bushing. Then reset adaptations...
I didn't buy the spring as most guides stated it wasn't necessary or no mention of it at all. As for the pilot bushing, is that preventative or necessary?
While checking eBay I came across a lot of those reconditioned/refurbished solenoid lot (all 6) around the same price you wrote. I could spend over 100 just switching out 2 brown tops for blue tops or spend 60 and get them all. Should I just get the refurb ones? They're genuine and look great but seeing as they're a critical component to the trans, I'm hesitant to slap in "used" ones
A response like this brings more clarity to my mind. Thanks
Wow, please tell me where you found a pair of blue tops for just over $100! Even double that price is far less than I've seen them listed for. Also, did you find any of the refurbished sets that definitely come with blue tops? (more on that below)
This thread has been relevant to my interests, I've noticed the 1500rpm jerk lately, which I've read is caused by failure of the solenoid for the torque converter lockup (which makes total sense the way it feels). The cause of your jerkiness may or may not be solely due to the torque converter lockup, but if it is then doing the "blue top" modification isn't going to help you. If it is one of your brown top solenoids at fault then you don't need to change it to a blue top to fix your jerkiness. Replacing the faulty solenoid with another brown top would fix your problem. The blue tops will allow for higher fluid pressures that will make for more aggressive shifts, and that may or may not be what you really want. If you want to end up with the transmission behaving as it was intended to when the car left the factory, then stick with the brown tops. In either case, you need to identify the cause (or causes) of the problem. You can do a good amount of testing at the round connector without even opening up the transmission. The sensors built in to the conductor plate can be tested, as well as the resistances of all the solenoids. If any of the sensors fail the checks, go ahead and plan on replacing the conductor plate. If any of the solenoids fail their resistance checks, then it could indicate either a bad solenoid or a bad conductor plate - you'd need to then drop the pan and test the offending solenoids directly rather than through the conductor plate connector. Next, bear in mind that even if a solenoid passes the resistance test, that doesn't mean it's good. It could still have a mechanical problem such as excessive wear or stickiness. The best way to test them is with a fixture where they can be pressurized with air, then given voltage to actuate them and ensure proper mechanical operation. Given that, it makes sense to take the approach of replacing all of them if you cannot tell from the symptoms which one(s) could be at fault, especially with the refurbished sets being so inexpensive. Even if you do replace solenoids, make sure you do the tests at the conductor plate to make sure that you get the same values at the connector as the solenoids themselves (and also to make sure the sensors built into the plate are working properly, if there is any doubt of that).
In my case, I still have all of the troubleshooting to do so I'm not sure if mine has issues beyond the torque converter lockup solenoid (there aren't any that I've noticed based on the symptoms, at least). I'm really tempted to do the blue tops at the same time, because I dislike the lazy shifts... I'm not sure just how harsh they'll be though, I've heard vastly differing opinions on that. Getting back to my comment at the beginning about the refurb sets, one thing that I don't like about all those e-bay listings for the sets of refurbished solenoids is that they don't specify whether the 2 pressure solenoids are brown or blue. The vehicle fitment listing seems to cover many models that use each type, which doesn't make any sense to me. I even asked one of the sellers, and told them about some of the later AMG models using the different blue top solenoids and they were clueless about it. The price is so low that I'd be real surprised if they were blue tops.
If you search around, you can find an electronic copy of the ATSG manual for the 722.6 transmission, it has more than you'd probably ever need to know, and is especially useful when it comes to information about the conductor plate, sensors, and solenoids.
Wow, please tell me where you found a pair of blue tops for just over $100! Even double that price is far less than I've seen them listed for. Also, did you find any of the refurbished sets that definitely come with blue tops? (more on that below)
This thread has been relevant to my interests, I've noticed the 1500rpm jerk lately, which I've read is caused by failure of the solenoid for the torque converter lockup (which makes total sense the way it feels). The cause of your jerkiness may or may not be solely due to the torque converter lockup, but if it is then doing the "blue top" modification isn't going to help you. If it is one of your brown top solenoids at fault then you don't need to change it to a blue top to fix your jerkiness. Replacing the faulty solenoid with another brown top would fix your problem. The blue tops will allow for higher fluid pressures that will make for more aggressive shifts, and that may or may not be what you really want. If you want to end up with the transmission behaving as it was intended to when the car left the factory, then stick with the brown tops. In either case, you need to identify the cause (or causes) of the problem. You can do a good amount of testing at the round connector without even opening up the transmission. The sensors built in to the conductor plate can be tested, as well as the resistances of all the solenoids. If any of the sensors fail the checks, go ahead and plan on replacing the conductor plate. If any of the solenoids fail their resistance checks, then it could indicate either a bad solenoid or a bad conductor plate - you'd need to then drop the pan and test the offending solenoids directly rather than through the conductor plate connector. Next, bear in mind that even if a solenoid passes the resistance test, that doesn't mean it's good. It could still have a mechanical problem such as excessive wear or stickiness. The best way to test them is with a fixture where they can be pressurized with air, then given voltage to actuate them and ensure proper mechanical operation. Given that, it makes sense to take the approach of replacing all of them if you cannot tell from the symptoms which one(s) could be at fault, especially with the refurbished sets being so inexpensive. Even if you do replace solenoids, make sure you do the tests at the conductor plate to make sure that you get the same values at the connector as the solenoids themselves (and also to make sure the sensors built into the plate are working properly, if there is any doubt of that).
In my case, I still have all of the troubleshooting to do so I'm not sure if mine has issues beyond the torque converter lockup solenoid (there aren't any that I've noticed based on the symptoms, at least). I'm really tempted to do the blue tops at the same time, because I dislike the lazy shifts... I'm not sure just how harsh they'll be though, I've heard vastly differing opinions on that. Getting back to my comment at the beginning about the refurb sets, one thing that I don't like about all those e-bay listings for the sets of refurbished solenoids is that they don't specify whether the 2 pressure solenoids are brown or blue. The vehicle fitment listing seems to cover many models that use each type, which doesn't make any sense to me. I even asked one of the sellers, and told them about some of the later AMG models using the different blue top solenoids and they were clueless about it. The price is so low that I'd be real surprised if they were blue tops.
If you search around, you can find an electronic copy of the ATSG manual for the 722.6 transmission, it has more than you'd probably ever need to know, and is especially useful when it comes to information about the conductor plate, sensors, and solenoids.
Thank you for your input. My mechanic has been reading all of this and seems to have a clearer picture than me. I'm going in for the flush tomorrow and will drive the car for about 20-30 miles to get the transmission to settle in with the new fluid. As of now, my mechanic said to hold off on anything else regarding the transmission till he figures out more and can help me find the absolute answer. What did you end up doing?
As for the blue tops for over 100, well I thought they were blue tops but I think theyre just brown tops because the seller isnt showing the side with the "tops". I messaged him for more pics but no response for 2 days... I'll keep you updated as he more than 10 available.
How many questions is this guy going to post? I know I know I keep posting stuff but the truth is a lot of the old threads are complicated due to the amount of replies with different part numbers and different parts being received it not fitting, and lastly the amount of back and forth of which one to buy. I've read through it all like 12 times and I still can't figure it out.
I've been doing a bunch of reading on this crazy good thread that leads into other good threads (link above) and I've narrowed it down to two different solenoid valves that need a changin.
My 32 is an 04. The solenoid valves on the 04 and 05 c55 benefit greatly from changing the valves to the blue tops...but which ones? There's 6 SV's in the gearbox, and I need to replace two for the trans jerk solution right? The brown tops to the blue tops right?
here's a list that of the parts from that thread that confuses me 1x 140-270-11-61 Conductor Plate
8x 001-989-68-13 Transmission Gear Oil
1x 140-271-00-80 Transmission Pan Gasket
1x 140-277-00-95 Transmission Oil Filter
I have not verified these yet
1x 240 270 17 00 TCC PWM solenoid
1x 140-271-00-60 Transmission Drain Plug Seal
1x 140-991-00-55 Transmission Fluid Filler Cap Locking Pin
1x 140-589-15-21-00 Transmission Dipstick tool
I understand all of the parts list except when it comes to the two solenoid valves mentioned. Throughout the thread everyone is recommending to change out. TCC / PWM solenoid valve for the solution and then right there it says optional one or two of the Bluetop solenoid valves
OK great, replacing which one(s) gets rid of that jerk in the transmission? Do you replace 1 valves, 2 valves, 3 valves or 4 valves? Or could it be the crank position sensor like others have encountered? Maybe it's the valve body alone that just needs replacing? these are rhetorical questions as I don't want a diagnosis but you I'm sure you get the point. Lots of different testimonies but only about 3 options for a fix..
Too long, didn't read? Here is my question summarized which of these two solenoid valves get rid of the jerk in the transmission?
Just an update for everyone who replied to this thread. I haven't gone through with replacing the solenoids because the bluetops are daily expensive and I'm just not sure which ones to buy for the transmission jerk. I've read some people just cleaned them and used the same solenoids or bought refurbished ones and got the same results as the blue tops or at least better than before. I can confirm this as I had my mechanic clean my solenoids before replacing my conductor plate (electric plate) and boy it's shifts smoother than before and it's a little more jumpy. Sport mode like others have stated feels more sluggish than comfort but I believe it's because it's holding its gears longer and I believe that goes away after some time or break in. If anyone has gone through with any solenoid options, I'd love to hear it. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I might be selling my 32 but damn it do I want to preserve its performance. I'm a concerned owner and would hate to see other 32's suffer.
Last edited by Oshkoshbigjosh; 03-31-2018 at 03:03 PM.
03-18-2018, 01:00 AM
