SEAFOAM IN OUR C36'S/C43'S
05-26-2008, 08:21 AM
#51
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88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Not true at all, it is 100% safe on the cats, infact I did this on my bmw racecar back in the day and did seafoam. A week later I redid my exhaust and looked at the cats, they literally looked brand spanking new, not even carbon soot on them, they looked perfect
Honestly, I usually only use it via the fuel tank (IMO thats the best method). That will clean everything except sludge at the top of the crank case, but ya sludge is rare on cars this good. I opened up my 112k engine, spotless. Then again it has full maintenance history so not surprised. Seafoam via gas tank will clean up your fuel filter, your fuel rails, fuel injectors and even the pistons themselves (mine looked brand spanking new when I opened up my motor after using it). the vaccum method is probably overkill unless you have a 200k+ motor.
Techron is strong, but seafoam is much stronger. its 100% safe, been proven for decades, the whole BMW community uses it religiously. Techron is good too, either one will give good results.
Honestly, I usually only use it via the fuel tank (IMO thats the best method). That will clean everything except sludge at the top of the crank case, but ya sludge is rare on cars this good. I opened up my 112k engine, spotless. Then again it has full maintenance history so not surprised. Seafoam via gas tank will clean up your fuel filter, your fuel rails, fuel injectors and even the pistons themselves (mine looked brand spanking new when I opened up my motor after using it). the vaccum method is probably overkill unless you have a 200k+ motor.
Techron is strong, but seafoam is much stronger. its 100% safe, been proven for decades, the whole BMW community uses it religiously. Techron is good too, either one will give good results.
This method should not damage the cats, whereas drawing direct into the combustion cylinder can cause excess heat which will in time can weaken the cat and damage the O2 sensor.
The vacuum, method as I have been stating is for beaters only that haven't been maintained and no one should ever consider purchase any Merc, let alone an AMG variant that has not been maintained.
It's a recipe for an expensive car to maintain that gives poor performance.
07-05-2008, 10:53 AM
#52
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SeaFoam and the spray version DeepCreap work well on higher milage engines that have an EGR system. Also engines that have a CrankCase vent to the intake. The oil mist with hot EGR gases create a buildup in the intake manifold, intake valves, and intake ports. Nothing at all to do with maintence history - just bad design. Oil mist on a warm intake with hot EGR gasses adds up to backed on oil sludge.
In general I like to spray DeepCreap in the intake on cars without a MAF. Let the Cleaner follow the airflow path. I'll spray untill the engine hickups and wait a few seconds and spray again. Or if you can locate a vacuum line near the intake manifold or Throttle body.
Using a vacuum line on one side of the manifold might not allow cleaner to reach all sides of the intake manifold.
Seafoam is also great to clean out dirty diesel turbos that have the VNT control system. Ie VW TDI. dump the cleaner down the exhaust manifold and work the VNT arm. Then drive and let out smoke as if your a coal freight train!
In general I like to spray DeepCreap in the intake on cars without a MAF. Let the Cleaner follow the airflow path. I'll spray untill the engine hickups and wait a few seconds and spray again. Or if you can locate a vacuum line near the intake manifold or Throttle body.
Using a vacuum line on one side of the manifold might not allow cleaner to reach all sides of the intake manifold.
Seafoam is also great to clean out dirty diesel turbos that have the VNT control system. Ie VW TDI. dump the cleaner down the exhaust manifold and work the VNT arm. Then drive and let out smoke as if your a coal freight train!
05-23-2012, 03:43 PM
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1999 C43 AMG
does your 350 deisel crankshaft have amg stamps all over it?
wiki credibility is somewhat decent as they pay millions of dollars to teams who revise and correct postings, so i would say read up on the m104 motor. to save you time ill just copy what it says about the 3.6 motors (which i never said werent rebuilt by hand, but i did state that they started from a c280 motor, the 2.8 m104)
AMG 3.6 L M104.941
There were 3.6 L conversions done to both the M103 and M104 by Brabus, among others.
AMG developed a 3.6 L M104 that was used in the W202 C36 AMG (W202) and the W124 E36 AMG (W124) vehicles.
The AMG 3.6 M104 was rated at 276 horsepower (206 kW) at 5,750 rpm and 284 foot-pounds force (385 N·m) of torque at 4,000 rpm using the HFM engine management system.
The boost in power was obtained by stroking the M104 using the crank from the 350sd engine.
wiki credibility is somewhat decent as they pay millions of dollars to teams who revise and correct postings, so i would say read up on the m104 motor. to save you time ill just copy what it says about the 3.6 motors (which i never said werent rebuilt by hand, but i did state that they started from a c280 motor, the 2.8 m104)
AMG 3.6 L M104.941
There were 3.6 L conversions done to both the M103 and M104 by Brabus, among others.
AMG developed a 3.6 L M104 that was used in the W202 C36 AMG (W202) and the W124 E36 AMG (W124) vehicles.
The AMG 3.6 M104 was rated at 276 horsepower (206 kW) at 5,750 rpm and 284 foot-pounds force (385 N·m) of torque at 4,000 rpm using the HFM engine management system.
The boost in power was obtained by stroking the M104 using the crank from the 350sd engine.
05-23-2012, 03:46 PM
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Different cams for certain and a lot of other things inside the engine
I suggest some reading for your general MB and AMG information. This is a bible of different things concerning our cars in ONE place and MarcusF is a walking encyclopaedia
http://www.marcusfitzhugh.com/CLK/DIY/
I suggest some reading for your general MB and AMG information. This is a bible of different things concerning our cars in ONE place and MarcusF is a walking encyclopaedia
http://www.marcusfitzhugh.com/CLK/DIY/
Last edited by DRBC43AMG; 05-23-2012 at 03:49 PM.
05-23-2012, 04:15 PM
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1999 C43 AMG
Different cams for certain and a lot of other things inside the engine
I suggest some reading for your general MB and AMG information. This is a bible of different things concerning our cars in ONE place and MarcusF is a walking encyclopaedia
http://www.marcusfitzhugh.com/CLK/DIY/
I suggest some reading for your general MB and AMG information. This is a bible of different things concerning our cars in ONE place and MarcusF is a walking encyclopaedia
http://www.marcusfitzhugh.com/CLK/DIY/
ok that website is ridic. amazing. i love it. thank you!
05-23-2012, 04:46 PM
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1999 C43 AMG
You're so correct about that....
For those that think the insertion of Seafoam through a vacuum line will degunk your engine, they need to understand what they are doing.
Drawing the Seafoam through the vacuum system has naught to do with the lubrication system,
The billowing white clouds of smoke are the result of the naptha/ipa/light oil mixture being burned in the combustion chamber.
Use plain old water in and you'll get a similar result.
Does it decarbonize a head...somewhat...is it recommended by Mercedes or any manufacturer...definitely not !!!
Too much liquid can hydrolock and you can bend a connecting rod..
To get rid of sludge as one poster mentioned you have to pour it into your crankcase.....and not rev or drive your car while its in there....
Why, because it's thinning your oil and weakening its lubricating properties.
You'll dislodge sludge, but where might this sludge end up ???
To use in an AMG vehicle is desecration.....and just a continuation of a lack of maintenance.
Looking at a non synthetic oil and claiming it is black, only means that it is doing its job...it's a detergent oil and it holds dirt in suspension until it gets to the filter !!!!
Synthetic oil will eventually clean the engine up as Techron will the fuel delivery system...
Both of which are approved by Mercedes....
Treat a car like junk and it becomes junk....
For those that think the insertion of Seafoam through a vacuum line will degunk your engine, they need to understand what they are doing.
Drawing the Seafoam through the vacuum system has naught to do with the lubrication system,
The billowing white clouds of smoke are the result of the naptha/ipa/light oil mixture being burned in the combustion chamber.
Use plain old water in and you'll get a similar result.
Does it decarbonize a head...somewhat...is it recommended by Mercedes or any manufacturer...definitely not !!!
Too much liquid can hydrolock and you can bend a connecting rod..
To get rid of sludge as one poster mentioned you have to pour it into your crankcase.....and not rev or drive your car while its in there....
Why, because it's thinning your oil and weakening its lubricating properties.
You'll dislodge sludge, but where might this sludge end up ???
To use in an AMG vehicle is desecration.....and just a continuation of a lack of maintenance.
Looking at a non synthetic oil and claiming it is black, only means that it is doing its job...it's a detergent oil and it holds dirt in suspension until it gets to the filter !!!!
Synthetic oil will eventually clean the engine up as Techron will the fuel delivery system...
Both of which are approved by Mercedes....
Treat a car like junk and it becomes junk....
Detergents And Solvents
Many of the older, better-known oil treatments on the market do not make claims nearly so lavish as the new upstarts. Old standbys like Bardahl, Rislone and Marvel Mystery Oil, instead offer things like "quieter lifters," "reduced oil burning" and a "cleaner engine."
Most of these products are made up of solvents and detergents designed to dissolve sludge and carbon deposits inside your engine so they can be flushed or burned out. Wynn's Friction Proofing Oil, for example, is 83 percent kerosene. Other brands use naphthalene, xylene, acetone and isopropanol. Usually, these ingredients will be found in a base of standard mineral oil.
In general, these products are designed to do just the opposite of what the PTFE and zinc phosphate additives claim to do. Instead of leaving behind a "coating" or a "plating" on your engine surfaces, they are designed to strip away such things.
All of these products will strip sludge and deposits out and clean up your engine, particularly if it is an older, abused one. The problem is, unless you have some way of determining just how much is needed to remove your deposits without going any further, such solvents also can strip away the boundary lubrication layer provided by your oil. Overuse of solvents is an easy trap to fall into, and one which can promote harmful metal-to-metal contact within your engine.
As a general rule of thumb these products had their place and were at least moderately useful on older automobile and motorcycle engines of the Fifties and Sixties, but are basically unneeded on the more efficient engine designs of the past two decades.
