AMS Pulley Install
good luck...
No disrespect intended toward hooleyboy or his stout C55, of course.
Worthwhile thread for those contemplating an undampened, lightweight crank pulley:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/abed...guarantee.html
Omey Homey, Dr. C36, and E55 PWR are some of the SN’s AMS has masqueraded under on our forum.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/abed...guarantee.html
No disrespect intended toward hooleyboy or his stout C55, of course.
Worthwhile thread for those contemplating an undampened, lightweight crank pulley:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/abed...guarantee.html
Omey Homey, Dr. C36, and E55 PWR are some of the SN’s AMS has masqueraded under on our forum.
we all know about omey and his CP's, what are you trying to get at making sarcastic remarks? i was trying to help someone who already had the CP try to get it installed. and seeing as though MB already had to swap out a bunch of CP's due to faulty harmonic dampeners, then there must be thousands of mechanics who know about the 6 ft breaker bar... good luck with your investigation sherlock. dr c36 hasnt posted for a while, maybe after all this excitement he'll come out of the woodwork and continue making large hp gain claims...
FYI I have absolutely no problem with someone not associated with the vendor posting product reviews - providing they're accurate and objective.
On the other hand when a company stoops to using false ID's and shills, then they deserve everything they get !
Maybe that's why AMS et al have been banned from MBworld ?
Last edited by timdf; Sep 18, 2008 at 01:23 PM.
FYI I have absolutely no problem with someone not associated with the vendor posting product reviews - providing they're accurate and objective.
On the other hand when a company stoops to using false ID's and shills, then they deserve everything they get !
Maybe that's why AMS et al have been banned from MBworld ?
Here's a link to a suspect thread started by Greg, C36ickness (Omeyhomey?) where he replies to himself as DR.C36 - the thread got closed, no prizes for guessing why :-)
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...&highlight=ams
These sorts of tactics while off topic imho certainly don't lend credibility to the AMS operation as a whole.
I'm not saying that AMS may not eventually offer a credible performance modification, in fact I'd go so far as to say I'd be the first to praise Omey when (or if) AMS does.
It's just to date these wild claims of HP, mpg improvements etc are just that, wild claims with little more than suspect dyno pulls and 'shills' to back them up.
This is not to mention the outright lies he's told as to where they're actually manufactured and how the 'harmonic damping' of the pulley itself has no effect on the torsional damping of the crank.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Short answer: no significant gain for 2lbs versus 6lbs weight reduction on the CP.
Long answer:
Based on my first hand experience (edit: of testing engines on real dyno's), calculations and (edit: engineering ) commonsense I can say without doubt (and stake my reputation on it) that the gains will be minimal and not measurable on a typical dyno of any kind. Certainly less than 1HP at best and even then I'm being generous.
What a light weight rotating 'anything' does is to allow the engine to rev up faster thus hitting it's power band and peak power that much sooner. Hence the effect of enhanced mid range punch in certain cases.
This is effect is most noticeable in smaller capacity high revving engines in light weight vehicles - such as motor bikes and race cars etc.
The well published claim that "1LB less weight = 2.7HP" is barely applicable to a 600LB 180HP super bike revving to 14,000rpm much less a road going car.
In a 3500LB sedan where the rate of change of rpm is more modest the gain is minimal.
Several others have independently performed calculations and come to the same answer <1HP.
As I've posted elsewhere, on one occasion we ran a F1 V10 on an engine dyno with and without pulleys or accessories to determine parasitic losses - the best we could determine was about 2HP gain and that was revving to over 19,000 rpm. Even then this result was difficult to repeat consistently.
Bottom line the gains of 10 - 20HP, 2-3MPG improvement are simply bogus and don't even get me started on the importance of a correctly damped crankshaft - I've seen first hand what happens when one let's go due to inadequate torsional resonance damping, bits of engine embedded in the test cell brick walls !
Edit: a few dyno charts from a 'shop dyno' prove absolutely nothing, as any race engineer worth his salt would tell you.
Last edited by timdf; Sep 18, 2008 at 06:41 PM.
Short answer: no significant gain for 2lbs versus 6lbs weight reduction on the CP.
Long answer:
Based on my first hand experience, calculations and commonsense I can say without doubt (and stake my reputation on it) that the gains will be minimal and not measurable on a typical dyno of any kind. Certainly less than 1HP at best and even then I'm being generous.
What a light weight rotating 'anything' does is to allow the engine to rev up faster thus hitting it's power band and peak power that much sooner. Hence the effect of enhanced mid range punch in certain cases.
This is effect is most noticeable in smaller capacity high revving engines in light weight vehicles - such as motor bikes and race cars etc.
The well published claim that "1LB less weight = 2.7HP" is barely applicable to a 600LB 180HP super bike revving to 14,000rpm much less a road going car.
In a 3500LB sedan where the rate of change of rpm is more modest the gain is minimal.
Several others have independently performed calculations and come to the same answer <1HP.
As I've posted elsewhere, on one occasion we ran a F1 V10 on an engine dyno with and without pulleys or accessories to determine parasitic losses - the best we could determine was about 2HP gain and that was revving to over 19,000 rpm. Even then this result was difficult to repeat consistently.
Bottom line the gains of 10 - 20HP, 2-3MPG improvement are simply bogus and don't even get me started on the importance of a correctly damped crankshaft - I've seen first hand what happens when one let's go due to inadequate torsional resonance damping, bits of engine embedded in the test cell brick walls !
Me along with some other members have these pulleys and they are working well for us and our set ups.
Your first had experance with these pulleys is Zero, I think that is fair to say. Maybe you have had some with other pulleys but not this one.
If you stake your reputation on there are no gains on a dyno than you just lost it. I have posted all my dyno runs from a stock dyno run and dynos after every mod worth dynoing. I was able t gain power on a Dyno-dynamics dyno and have the dyno to prove it. Onther members on here who have some killer AMGs and have this pulley will tell you the same. What I dont get is why someone would say there are no gains to be had and my dyno run is wrong. When in fact my My dyno run just shows that your mathmatical calculation in wrong. Why tell someone it does not make power when you base it on "commonsense" and what you think is "correct math"
here is the proof that my CP made power. and there goes your reputation you staked on it.
Last edited by hooleyboy; Sep 18, 2008 at 06:42 PM.
Clearly your dyno chart, vast experience, undying faith in AMS, butt dyno etc trumps my education, training, knowledge, practical experience and proves that all that matters is youthful enthusiasm and a willingness to believe in what you think the truth / facts are - based on suspect dyno pulls and what the manufacturer tells you.
(But didn't bobterry just debunk your dyno chart on the other forum and you are now considering re-running ?)
In any event clearly my 30 years of engineering experience is no match for such a belief system ;-)
However I'll leave others to decide the facts here.
In the meantime enjoy your 'special pulley' which must somehow behave much differently to the others I've seen working and tested on a REAL ENGINE DYNO.
If you should hear or feel any odd vibrations between 4k and 5.5k RPM, I'd suggest backing off.
PS - are you sure you're not related to Omeyhomey ?
Last edited by timdf; Sep 18, 2008 at 07:14 PM.
Clearly your dyno chart, vast experience, undying faith in AMS, butt dyno etc trumps my education, training, knowledge, practical experience and proves that all that matters is youthful enthusiasm and a willingness to believe in what you think is the truth.
(But didn't bobterry just debunk your dyno chart on the other forum and you are now considering re-running ?)
In any event clearly my 30 years of engineering experience is no match ;-)
However I'll leave others to decide the facts here.
In the meantime enjoy your 'special pulley' which must somehow behave much differently to the others I've seen working and tested on a REAL ENGINE DYNO.
If you should hear or feel any odd vibrations between 4k and 5.5k RPM, I'd suggest backing off.
PS - are you sure you're not related to Omeyhomey ?
Gains within 3% are considered within reporting tolerance.
The only way to truly prove and confirm increased performance beyond your "seat of the pants" feeling is for a time measured run pre and post modification.
Quarter mile is a great proof as are results from an in car 3 axis accelerometer like a G-tech.
Other then that your dyno run is just a piece of paper that some feel give them "bragging rights"
Big difference on the rollers versus rubber on the tarmac !!!!
Clearly your dyno chart, vast experience, undying faith in AMS, butt dyno etc trumps my education, training, knowledge, practical experience and proves that all that matters is youthful enthusiasm and a willingness to believe in what you think the truth / facts are - based on suspect dyno pulls and what the manufacturer tells you.
(But didn't bobterry just debunk your dyno chart on the other forum and you are now considering re-running ?)
In any event clearly my 30 years of engineering experience is no match for such a belief system ;-)
However I'll leave others to decide the facts here.
In the meantime enjoy your 'special pulley' which must somehow behave much differently to the others I've seen working and tested on a REAL ENGINE DYNO.
If you should hear or feel any odd vibrations between 4k and 5.5k RPM, I'd suggest backing off.
PS - are you sure you're not related to Omeyhomey ?
I find this interesting, maybe these members are related but as long as this pulley does not damage my engine I don't mind. I would think the lighter the crank the less strain, but I understand if this pulley is not balanced perfectly it would cause problems. (It is very well made and the and looks like it’s been made with care and accuracy)
My car has the original pulley still fitted, the recent posts here seem to be varied and sharing knowledge and facts is great, but..................
Should I not fit this now due to speculation that it may damage the engine?
Should I get it balanced checked or was that already done by AMS?
Should I expect no positive benefits and just accept this as a precaution pulley change as my car did not have any recall carried out, my car has a 10 year old 100,000 mile pulley and this will still be cheaper than going to an MB main dealer and buying an original.
Or is this just down to theorised comments and assumptions being made with no actual proof?
I trust who ever engineered this pulley to be competent and capable of producing something that does not have a negative affect on the engine.
Thanks
The pulley (in fact practically any pulley) is rotationally balanced and the AMS part is clearly well made, but to prevent crankshaft damage caused by crank torsional resonance the pulley assembly has to absorb the impulse energy from the crank.
This is done by having a two piece pulley with damping rubber between them and a critical mass to dampen the oscillations at a specific RPM.
Torsional resonance is not too much of a problem on short 4 cylinder cranks but for 6 and 8 cylinders it's critical.
The pulley in question has not been designed with crank shaft torsional resonance in mind - thus the longevity of the crank must be in question.
On the AMS website there is a .wav file which demonstrates how well damped the pulley is - which in of itself, it is. The problem is that it's not tuned or matched to the crank resonance. There is a good reason why MB has designed 7lbs or so of rotational mass hanging off the front of the crank.
Some people here may disagree with the following link - but it in fact it's totally accurate from a purely engineering aspect:
http://www.dinancars.com/bmw/technia...armonic-damper
FYI - Benz_addict for one has removed his pulley for this reason (amongst others) and is now offering it for sale second hand.
Bottom line - there is a finite possibility that long term (or not so long term if you're unlucky) that this pulley without an adequate integrated damper of the correct mass will damage the crank when attached to 6 or 8 cylinder engines.
If your existing pulley is not showing signs of wear and tear (bulging rubber), then it's likely ok - none the less I'd keep an eye on it.
But if for peace of mind you decide to change it, I would stick with the OEM part for the above reasons.
My car has the original pulley still fitted, the recent posts here seem to be varied and sharing knowledge and facts is great, but..................
Should I not fit this now due to speculation that it may damage the engine?
Should I get it balanced checked or was that already done by AMS?
Should I expect no positive benefits and just accept this as a precaution pulley change as my car did not have any recall carried out, my car has a 10 year old 100,000 mile pulley and this will still be cheaper than going to an MB main dealer and buying an original.
Or is this just down to theorised comments and assumptions being made with no actual proof?
I trust who ever engineered this pulley to be competent and capable of producing something that does not have a negative affect on the engine.
Thanks
Last edited by timdf; Sep 19, 2008 at 03:52 PM.
Both very descriptive names !!!

Why????? .... because it is not a straight pully design as are the true pulleys used on the driven accessories

If you don't believe Timdf , then here is some engineering design text book stuff
Vibration Damper
The power impulses of an engine result in torsional vibration in the crankshaft. A vibration damper mounted on the front of the crankshaft controls this vibration (fig. 12-21). If this torsional vibration were not controlled, the crankshaft might actually break at certain speeds. Most types of vibration dampers resemble a miniature clutch. A friction facing is mounted between the hub face and a small damper flywheel. The damper flywheel is mounted on the hub face with bolts that go through rubber cones in the flywheel. These cones permit limited circumferential movement between the crankshaft and damper flywheel. That reduces the effects of the torsional vibration in the crankshaft. Several other types of vibration dampers are used; however, they all operate in essentially the same way.
A picture is worth a thousand words !
Last edited by RBYCC; Sep 19, 2008 at 02:19 PM.
now I really am completely in two minds,
does the OEM harmonic balancer really need to be weighted as much as it is,
if it does not have the correct weight ratio required to satify the resonace of the crank then my understanding is that it won't do its job properly.
doesn't it just need to be balanced in the normal way a wheel and tyre is.
As long as the AMS harmonic balancer absorbs the vibration and is balanced is that not enough? (I can confirm that my AMS pulley does have rubber pressed into the construction, i.e its not a solid metal piece pulley)
This tech info link below talks about replacing the harmonic dampener with 'a lightweight alloy assembly' AMS state that its an alloy harmonic dampener pulley which they produce?
http://www.dinancars.com/bmw/technia...armonic-damper
Last edited by £ C43 £ AMG £; Sep 19, 2008 at 06:42 PM.
now I really am completely in two minds,
does the OEM harmonic balancer really need to be weighted as much as it is,
doesn't it just need to be balanced in the normal way a wheel and tyre is.
As long as the AMS harmonic balancer absorbs the vibration and is balanced is that not enough?
Hence no vibration dampening or harmonic cancellation.
That's the problem.
Just apply common sense....is a gain that is within tolerance of a dyno reading of 3% worth having a future problem.
Ask AMS who is the manufacturer how much product liability insurance they carry and if they can show you a current insurance policy then go for it.
Any damage caused to your engine or you then would be actionable against the manufacturers product liability.
I go back to the sixties and have owned many vehicles with performance levels higher then most modded AMG's...
Never even considered doing anything to the front balancer.
Lightweight flywheel yes...balancer no.
There are teams of engineers and banks of computers at AMG that somehow calculate what the proper weight and design the front balancer should be.
You're in the UK...are you familar with the NHRA ( National Hot Road Association ) ?
Below are "Top Dragster" rules for cars that run a 1/4 mile in under 6 seconds....much faster then even the fastest Black Series AMG

Top Dragster Rules
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wednesday, January 30, 2008
TOP DRAGSTER
Class is for dragster and open bodied altered-type vehicles only. Altereds must have open front wheels; no full fender and/or running board equipped street roadsters or funny car bodies permitted. Qualified fields with competition conducted in a dial-in E.T. format.
Designation
TD followed by car number. Numbers must be at least four inches high.
Weight Breaks: *
Supercharged or turbocharged big-block altered: 2,000 pounds
Naturally aspirated big-block altered: 1,800 pounds
Supercharged or turbocharged big-block dragster: 1,800 pounds
NOS big-block dragster: 1,700 pounds
Naturally aspirated big-block dragster 1,600 pounds
Supercharged or turbocharged small-block altered: 1,700 pounds
Supercharged or turbocharged small-block dragster: 1,650 pounds
NOS small-block: 1,550 pounds
Naturally-aspirated small-block: 1,500 pounds
Naturally-aspirated 4 or 6 cylinder: 1,400 pounds
* Divisions 6 and 7 minimum weight for all entries 1350 pounds.
Refer to the current NHRA Rulebook and/or rules revisions for additional vehicle/driver requirements, specifications, and general regulations. Any cars running quicker than 6.00 seconds must meet all comparable requirements for TAD or TAFC.
REQUIREMENTS AND SPECIFICATIONS
ENGINE:1
Induction
Carburetors, fuel injection or electronic fuel injection permitted. Two return springs mandatory. Throttle stops prohibited.
Engine
Any internal combustion reciprocating automotive engine permitted; any modification to engine acceptable. Four-valves per cylinder maximum. Engine may be in any location in dragster; front engine only in altered. Harmonic balancer meeting SFI Spec 18.1 mandatory.
Here is a link that better explains SFI Spec 18.1
http://www.pro-race.com/faq.htm
Soooo why do you think real high performance race cars need a harmonic balancer...and why do they add weight to obtain a dynamic balance ????
Break a crank at speed and it can be life or death because everything comes to an abrupt stop and hot oil, gas, and flames tend to spew all over the place
As long as the AMS harmonic balancer absorbs the vibration and is balanced is that not enough? (I can confirm that my AMS pulley does have rubber pressed into the construction, i.e its not a solid metal piece pulley)
The mass on the other side of the rubber damper is critical to the damping / absorbing effect, as is the stiffness of the rubber.
The dampener mass needs to be considered as part of a complete system comprising flywheel, crank and dampener.
I'm sure MB could have made the crank pulley lighter, but chose not to as they calculated how much mass is required to dampen the cranks natural resonant frequency at a given RPM.
It's actually quite a difficult calculation and not something I'd mess with.
Crankshafts are actually a very complex piece of engineering and are affected by what's attached at each end.
Hope this helps.
Tim
edit just read this link http://www.pro-race.com/faq.htm posted by RBYCC above and it really is informative as to why damper mass is required and the dangers of reducing it.
Last edited by timdf; Sep 19, 2008 at 06:54 PM.
YES AND IT IS FACTUAL, so I am thinking it would not be wise to not pay attention to it.
I am obviously not an exspert engine builder, but I would have exspected after reading this information that the AMS pulley was bench tested first in some way and the physics and calculations carried out properly?
Please AMS could you confirm that this process took place in the production stages. It may be completely fine and there are no issues.
As I am now stuck between a hard place and a rock and amazed that no one picked up on this earlier before I purchased it.
Last edited by £ C43 £ AMG £; Sep 19, 2008 at 07:46 PM.
Hello Tim,
The reason is we used much of the design from the OEM pulley and improved on its weaknesses. Therefore we didn't just cast all their hard work aside, we improved on it by making the harmonic damper more robust and stronger thereby making it less prone to failure. Furthermore they use a cheap quality rubber on the older harmonic dampers that orginally came on all our cars.
But have you re-designed the rubber which is a critical component - if so how was that done exactly bearing in mind the reduced weight ?
Do you even know what the torsional resonant frequency of the crank is and at what RPM it hits and how to deal with it ?
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/abed...arantee-7.html
From this I conclude mass was simply removed with no regards to the damping properties required by the crank.
As for your next steps, you could
1. Install and test it, if you're satisfied - keep it and report your success.
2. If after installing it you're not satisfied - Return it for a refund, ie test the guarantee.
3. Sell it on as second hand and put it down to experience.
Personally I go for #3 - which is what benz_addict has decided to do, see link below. Also note E55 PWR (AMS / Omeyhomey posting as a shill).
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...844&highlight=
The pulley is lighter in weight don't get me wrong but that's about it and that's all I noticed. Post 14 I said it feels like a rocket, I want to retract that comment now because after 8,000km of driving I actaully noticed my MPG getting worse. My car is very well maintained new sparks, fuel filter etc. It also made my car sound louder and really, I don't feel any performance gains. It probably does add HP, and TQ I'd say 1HP max. This is my review and I'm not going to bother getting a refund etc. It's in then it's in. $600 down the drain...meh
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/g-cl...nk-pulley.html
Last edited by timdf; Sep 19, 2008 at 11:23 PM.
Also, I would be suspect of anyone (Dr. C36) that quotes the incorrect torque. Fortunately, splinter corrected this rather serious mistake in post #20. The torque spec of 200 Nm + 90 degrees angle of rotation is fairly common knowledge. Lots of folks were discussing this back when the early vibration dampers were failing and it is also specified on the factory C-Ds, on www.startekinfo, etc..
The pulley he sold you will add about 1/2 HP to the rear wheels when accelerating in first gear and less HP in other gears. That is a scientific fact that any high school physics student can verify. It's probably not worth risking the reliability of your engine for so little gain.
Last edited by Robb M.; Dec 12, 2011 at 10:19 AM.




