Why are the C43 and C36 Gas Milages Similar??
#26
C36 M104s are notoriously thirsty, however there are some things to improve that slightly. The C36 is truly unique and in a class of its own so its hard to compare it to anything else since it is the genesis of ///AMG as we know it today.
The 4spd can be a bit sluggish, however, if you put in RP and get crank pulley it shifts much quicker than stock and becomes livable. The good thing is the 4spd almost never goes bad and is very consistent where as the electronic 5spds can be annoying at times.
Again it depends on what you like as an individual but really there isn't much difference between them as far as performance, it comes down to personal preference.
The 4spd can be a bit sluggish, however, if you put in RP and get crank pulley it shifts much quicker than stock and becomes livable. The good thing is the 4spd almost never goes bad and is very consistent where as the electronic 5spds can be annoying at times.
Again it depends on what you like as an individual but really there isn't much difference between them as far as performance, it comes down to personal preference.
#27
BOTH the C43 and C36's are in the mid-range to higher 5 seconds. The C280 is 8 dam seconds! How can you compare a C280 with 2 AMG's!?? I have BOTH a C36 AND a C280, and the C280 is NOTHINGGGG compared to the C36. I repeat NOTHING. If you blindfolded me and made me drive both cars, I would think they are 2 totally different cars completly... Which technically they actually are anyways. Take it from a guy that owns both cars... :thumbsup:
I do! but funny thing is, it's my friend Marko who drove your c36 and my c43 one year before who told me that... lool!!
dont put me in trouble
![naughty](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
![naughty](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
i know my c43 is mint :P
how come some website state c43 or c36 0-60mph @ 6 sec over...that sucks!!
ride safely
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
#28
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Connecticut, New Haven
Posts: 1,297
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
95' AMG SeeThreeSix
C36 M104s are notoriously thirsty, however there are some things to improve that slightly. The C36 is truly unique and in a class of its own so its hard to compare it to anything else since it is the genesis of ///AMG as we know it today.
The 4spd can be a bit sluggish, however, if you put in RP and get crank pulley it shifts much quicker than stock and becomes livable. The good thing is the 4spd almost never goes bad and is very consistent where as the electronic 5spds can be annoying at times.
Again it depends on what you like as an individual but really there isn't much difference between them as far as performance, it comes down to personal preference.
The 4spd can be a bit sluggish, however, if you put in RP and get crank pulley it shifts much quicker than stock and becomes livable. The good thing is the 4spd almost never goes bad and is very consistent where as the electronic 5spds can be annoying at times.
Again it depends on what you like as an individual but really there isn't much difference between them as far as performance, it comes down to personal preference.
#29
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Connecticut, New Haven
Posts: 1,297
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
95' AMG SeeThreeSix
man plz tell us how that car was crushed like this, i mean i saw an old w126 that dropped 20m head first
rolled 8 times and the roof didnt buckle at all
ur lucky man to live thru that crash
drive safe.
I need to know if the w202 is safe or should i sell so give us details on how that crash happpened
thnx
ill post pics of that s class in a bit
rolled 8 times and the roof didnt buckle at all
ur lucky man to live thru that crash
drive safe.
I need to know if the w202 is safe or should i sell so give us details on how that crash happpened
thnx
ill post pics of that s class in a bit
This was a few years back when I was "young and stupid". I was a crazy driver, but an unexperinced crazy driver. I bought the car on my own after laboring through the summer doing a few masonary jobs around my neighborhood. Ironically 4 months later I was driving way too fast on a twisty stretch (police report says 80mph, I still doubt it though), lost the rear end, and slid into a pile of stones a mason had left in the front yard of his clients house! The car slid sideways into this pile, the drivers side corner was lifted up, the car flipped over and was airborne according to witnesses. It then landed on the roof and slid another 40 meters while mowing a couple of fair sized trees down in the process. Possibly the worst part of all this was waking up, sitting in someones driveway and looking at the car upside down while the firemen were trying to rip the car open to get my very best freind out. Long story short, we were BOTH out of the hospital that night. He left before I did! I owe alot to that car.
![mercy](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/mecry.gif)
#30
Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Carolina, US
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1992 300E, 1995 C36 AMG, 1969 VW Bug
Jay,
This was a few years back when I was "young and stupid". I was a crazy driver, but an unexperinced crazy driver. I bought the car on my own after laboring through the summer doing a few masonary jobs around my neighborhood. Ironically 4 months later I was driving way too fast on a twisty stretch (police report says 80mph, I still doubt it though), lost the rear end, and slid into a pile of stones a mason had left in the front yard of his clients house! The car slid sideways into this pile, the drivers side corner was lifted up, the car flipped over and was airborne according to witnesses. It then landed on the roof and slid another 40 meters while mowing a couple of fair sized trees down in the process. Possibly the worst part of all this was waking up, sitting in someones driveway and looking at the car upside down while the firemen were trying to rip the car open to get my very best freind out. Long story short, we were BOTH out of the hospital that night. He left before I did! I owe alot to that car.![mercy](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/mecry.gif)
This was a few years back when I was "young and stupid". I was a crazy driver, but an unexperinced crazy driver. I bought the car on my own after laboring through the summer doing a few masonary jobs around my neighborhood. Ironically 4 months later I was driving way too fast on a twisty stretch (police report says 80mph, I still doubt it though), lost the rear end, and slid into a pile of stones a mason had left in the front yard of his clients house! The car slid sideways into this pile, the drivers side corner was lifted up, the car flipped over and was airborne according to witnesses. It then landed on the roof and slid another 40 meters while mowing a couple of fair sized trees down in the process. Possibly the worst part of all this was waking up, sitting in someones driveway and looking at the car upside down while the firemen were trying to rip the car open to get my very best freind out. Long story short, we were BOTH out of the hospital that night. He left before I did! I owe alot to that car.
![mercy](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/mecry.gif)
The RP that AMS is talking about is (I think) just Royal Purple transmission fluid. The crank pulley is a product he sells, search the C36/43 forum for opinions on it.
Also, I turned 130,000 last night in the C36
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#31
RP = royal purple, it does help the older transmissions shift smoother, but the biggest difference came from the lighter crank pulley. It just allowed the older style transmissions to shift much quicker & smoother. Its not as pronounced on the newer 5spds, but on the older 4spds it transformed the car into something else.
Thanks
Thanks
#33
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Connecticut, New Haven
Posts: 1,297
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
95' AMG SeeThreeSix
Haha, we will see! I wish I could buy both! However, I need to look at this kind of thing the most economical way possible. I like the fact that the 4speed transmissions are bulletproof, I am also partial to them because it is also the same transmission used in the legendary 500E. I also feel more comfortable working on the inline 6 myself. I would like to drive both then consider the choice based on mileage, transmission operation, and wiring harness.
#34
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Connecticut, New Haven
Posts: 1,297
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
95' AMG SeeThreeSix
Wow, glad you were ok after that one. I slid my 300E back in February, the back came out and I countersteered...car ended up spinning over 180 degrees into a guard rail and a tree. Not anywhere near as nasty as your C280 crash though. They're good cars for sure, I can't think of anything else I would want to be in if I was to crash again.
The RP that AMS is talking about is (I think) just Royal Purple transmission fluid. The crank pulley is a product he sells, search the C36/43 forum for opinions on it.
Also, I turned 130,000 last night in the C36![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The RP that AMS is talking about is (I think) just Royal Purple transmission fluid. The crank pulley is a product he sells, search the C36/43 forum for opinions on it.
Also, I turned 130,000 last night in the C36
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#35
Anyways I made him try it (actually he wanted to try it) AGAIN about 2 weeks ago after all the maintenace, MAF and engine were in tip-top running condition... AND I made sure he actually "tryed" the car out this time... I still remember what he said "Hey man this engine is getting faster and faster the more I drive it!" haha ask him now, I think he will have a different opinion.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Anyways about the over 6 seconds thing.. Like most people already know, Mercedes is very conservative with there numbers, they even said the C63 was a 4.3 second car and car and driver had it at 3.9!! I thing it has more to do with how AMG engines break in, I will give you an example, theirs this Mechanic who started this thread on (I think) Benzworld? a long while ago who owns a C36 from new, ALL stock, he took it to a drag strip at 3,000 Miles on the odometer and tested the 0-60 several times, He got 6.3 average, ok. Went BACK at 5,000 miles did it again, got 5.9, went BACK again at 10,000 miles and got between several runs 5.5-5.7!!! So what he stated is that these AMG engines perform BETTER the more miles they put on or (loosen up) as you say, and basically are built to last.. Keep in mind this C36 is in tip-top shape ALL stock and owned by a mechanic aswell.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Last edited by BenzMaster19; 10-17-2009 at 01:25 PM.
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Lebanon
Posts: 370
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1995 C 36 AMG; 1992 W124 300E (M103 Ex Mosselman TT KIT) was 320hp @10psi now stock :(
yup merc engines are made to last and they love to be put thru their paces.
i guess thats y they use oil more than other engines, duno if thats true but i heard that the oil consumed helps protect the rings and walls, especially in the I6 M103 and M104.
but even the brand new 63V8 uses oil from new.
i guess thats y they use oil more than other engines, duno if thats true but i heard that the oil consumed helps protect the rings and walls, especially in the I6 M103 and M104.
but even the brand new 63V8 uses oil from new.
#37
yup merc engines are made to last and they love to be put thru their paces.
i guess thats y they use oil more than other engines, duno if thats true but i heard that the oil consumed helps protect the rings and walls, especially in the I6 M103 and M104.
but even the brand new 63V8 uses oil from new.
i guess thats y they use oil more than other engines, duno if thats true but i heard that the oil consumed helps protect the rings and walls, especially in the I6 M103 and M104.
but even the brand new 63V8 uses oil from new.
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Lebanon
Posts: 370
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1995 C 36 AMG; 1992 W124 300E (M103 Ex Mosselman TT KIT) was 320hp @10psi now stock :(
ya in the user manual of the 36 AMG its says that one should expect the engine to use between 1 to 1.5 liter of oil for every 1000miles or hard driving!!
in my 36 that has abt 70k miles i use almost 1L for every 1300miles of high revs driving
in my 36 that has abt 70k miles i use almost 1L for every 1300miles of high revs driving
#40
Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Carolina, US
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1992 300E, 1995 C36 AMG, 1969 VW Bug
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
On the oil issue, I burn a little less in my C36 as I did in my 300E, but the HG on the 300E was weeping significantly and I was about to replace it. All said, oil consumption, even at 130k is about 1L every 1200-1500 miles, basically what Jay is getting and what the manual says I should get.
Not really an issue, sounds like you are used to it with the 300E.
Speaking of which, have you considered keeping the 300E as a daily driver? I love my C36 but I'm currently tracking down a good 190E or 190D to use as a daily driver. Just a thought
#41
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Connecticut, New Haven
Posts: 1,297
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
95' AMG SeeThreeSix
I buy a case of oil every 3 months or so, just part of the maintenance tab. I really am considering keeping her as a DD. However, at 20 years old the insurance companies get rich from me as it is. I could possibly swing it, I have an emotional attachment to the 300E and that may be the deal breaker rather than funds. I would really prefer a nice 190E 16V, manual tranny as a daily driver. Fun as hell, good on gas (300E's downfall), relatively and cheap to fix.
Your bringing back old memories! My first auto was a 1978 GMC pickup with a 3 speed Hurst shifter on the floor, scary as hell to drive in the rain or get stuck on a big hill at a stoplight, if you didn't ease it into gear the bed would just start hopping and bad things happen from there....Then it was a beautiful 1980 280CE (W123 coupe), main seal poured oil out and she finally seized on the highway. Then it was a FWD civic....never again. Followed by the C280 and now currently the 300E.
P.S.
Here's the W123:
Your bringing back old memories! My first auto was a 1978 GMC pickup with a 3 speed Hurst shifter on the floor, scary as hell to drive in the rain or get stuck on a big hill at a stoplight, if you didn't ease it into gear the bed would just start hopping and bad things happen from there....Then it was a beautiful 1980 280CE (W123 coupe), main seal poured oil out and she finally seized on the highway. Then it was a FWD civic....never again. Followed by the C280 and now currently the 300E.
P.S.
Here's the W123:
![](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60/appatula/Mercedes/Benzy1.jpg)
Last edited by appatula; 10-17-2009 at 04:49 PM. Reason: Nostalgic Reference
#42
Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Carolina, US
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1992 300E, 1995 C36 AMG, 1969 VW Bug
I buy a case of oil every 3 months or so, just part of the maintenance tab. I really am considering keeping her as a DD. However, at 20 years old the insurance companies get rich from me as it is. I could possibly swing it, I have an emotional attachment to the 300E and that may be the deal breaker rather than funds. I would really prefer a nice 190E 16V, manual tranny as a daily driver. Fun as hell, good on gas (300E's downfall), relatively and cheap to fix.
Your bringing back old memories! My first auto was a 1978 GMC pickup with a 3 speed Hurst shifter on the floor, scary as hell to drive in the rain or get stuck on a big hill at a stoplight, if you didn't ease it into gear the bed would just start hopping and bad things happen from there....Then it was a beautiful 1980 280CE (W123 coupe), main seal poured oil out and she finally seized on the highway. Then it was a FWD civic....never again. Followed by the C280 and now currently the 300E.
P.S.
Here's the W123:
![](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60/appatula/Mercedes/Benzy1.jpg)
Your bringing back old memories! My first auto was a 1978 GMC pickup with a 3 speed Hurst shifter on the floor, scary as hell to drive in the rain or get stuck on a big hill at a stoplight, if you didn't ease it into gear the bed would just start hopping and bad things happen from there....Then it was a beautiful 1980 280CE (W123 coupe), main seal poured oil out and she finally seized on the highway. Then it was a FWD civic....never again. Followed by the C280 and now currently the 300E.
P.S.
Here's the W123:
![](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60/appatula/Mercedes/Benzy1.jpg)
Keep in mind that you could also keep the 300E as a daily and insure the C36 through a collectible car insurance company such as Hagerty's. That would cost you something miniscule like 100 dollars a year to insure the car, and most collectible insurances allow you to insure a vehicle at a stated value. For example, you think your C36 is worth 10,000 dollars, so that's what you insure it for (as opposed to a regular insurance company who will insure the car for about 5,000 dollars based on Kelley Blue Book). However all of this comes with a terms of use. Most collectible car insurance companies stipulate that you may only drive the car in certain circumstances. Ie you can't drive it to work, school, or the grocery store, but you could take it for a Sunday cruise. Most collectible insurances also have a yearly mileage quota that you cannot exceed, generally somewhere around 6,000 miles. It's a rather restrictive option for anyone who wants to regularly street their car, but if you are only planning on driving the C36 for occasional enjoyment, it could be a valid and inexpensive insurance option.
Also, if you're ever looking for a clean 500E in Connecticut, I know Wayne Carini of F40 Motorsports in Portland has one for sale every now and then. I'm originally from West Hartford and go back to visit family twice a year. I remember Wayne had a 500E for sale this summer, feel like it sold in the 18k range-it was very clean and had something like only 40,000 miles.
Last edited by PaulRicciardi; 10-18-2009 at 09:55 AM.
#43
Funny, sounds like we are in a similar place in life. I'm also 20, a full time college student, work full time. Full coverage insurance on my C36 is about 1900 dollars a year, about 700 more than I paid for my 300E. However keep in mind that I did have an accident in the 300E about 9 months ago and was given a "too fast for conditions" ticket so my rates are a little higher than what they would be with a spotless driving record. I imagine that living in CT your rates will be a bit more on top of that, but figured I would give you a ballpark.
Keep in mind that you could also keep the 300E as a daily and insure the C36 through a collectible car insurance company such as Hagerty's. That would cost you something miniscule like 100 dollars a year to insure the car, and most collectible insurances allow you to insure a vehicle at a stated value. For example, you think your C36 is worth 10,000 dollars, so that's what you insure it for (as opposed to a regular insurance company who will insure the car for about 5,000 dollars based on Kelley Blue Book). However all of this comes with a terms of use. Most collectible car insurance companies stipulate that you may only drive the car in certain circumstances. Ie you can't drive it to work, school, or the grocery store, but you could take it for a Sunday cruise. Most collectible insurances also have a yearly mileage quota that you cannot exceed, generally somewhere around 6,000 miles. It's a rather restrictive option for anyone who wants to regularly street their car, but if you are only planning on driving the C36 for occasional enjoyment, it could be a valid and inexpensive insurance option.
Also, if you're ever looking for a clean 500E in Connecticut, I know Wayne Carini of F40 Motorsports in Portland has one for sale every now and then. I'm originally from West Hartford and go back to visit family twice a year. I remember Wayne had a 500E for sale this summer, feel like it sold in the 18k range-it was very clean and had something like only 40,000 miles.
Keep in mind that you could also keep the 300E as a daily and insure the C36 through a collectible car insurance company such as Hagerty's. That would cost you something miniscule like 100 dollars a year to insure the car, and most collectible insurances allow you to insure a vehicle at a stated value. For example, you think your C36 is worth 10,000 dollars, so that's what you insure it for (as opposed to a regular insurance company who will insure the car for about 5,000 dollars based on Kelley Blue Book). However all of this comes with a terms of use. Most collectible car insurance companies stipulate that you may only drive the car in certain circumstances. Ie you can't drive it to work, school, or the grocery store, but you could take it for a Sunday cruise. Most collectible insurances also have a yearly mileage quota that you cannot exceed, generally somewhere around 6,000 miles. It's a rather restrictive option for anyone who wants to regularly street their car, but if you are only planning on driving the C36 for occasional enjoyment, it could be a valid and inexpensive insurance option.
Also, if you're ever looking for a clean 500E in Connecticut, I know Wayne Carini of F40 Motorsports in Portland has one for sale every now and then. I'm originally from West Hartford and go back to visit family twice a year. I remember Wayne had a 500E for sale this summer, feel like it sold in the 18k range-it was very clean and had something like only 40,000 miles.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#44
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Connecticut, New Haven
Posts: 1,297
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
95' AMG SeeThreeSix
Funny, sounds like we are in a similar place in life. I'm also 20, a full time college student, work full time. Full coverage insurance on my C36 is about 1900 dollars a year, about 700 more than I paid for my 300E. However keep in mind that I did have an accident in the 300E about 9 months ago and was given a "too fast for conditions" ticket so my rates are a little higher than what they would be with a spotless driving record. I imagine that living in CT your rates will be a bit more on top of that, but figured I would give you a ballpark.
Keep in mind that you could also keep the 300E as a daily and insure the C36 through a collectible car insurance company such as Hagerty's. That would cost you something miniscule like 100 dollars a year to insure the car, and most collectible insurances allow you to insure a vehicle at a stated value. For example, you think your C36 is worth 10,000 dollars, so that's what you insure it for (as opposed to a regular insurance company who will insure the car for about 5,000 dollars based on Kelley Blue Book). However all of this comes with a terms of use. Most collectible car insurance companies stipulate that you may only drive the car in certain circumstances. Ie you can't drive it to work, school, or the grocery store, but you could take it for a Sunday cruise. Most collectible insurances also have a yearly mileage quota that you cannot exceed, generally somewhere around 6,000 miles. It's a rather restrictive option for anyone who wants to regularly street their car, but if you are only planning on driving the C36 for occasional enjoyment, it could be a valid and inexpensive insurance option.
Also, if you're ever looking for a clean 500E in Connecticut, I know Wayne Carini of F40 Motorsports in Portland has one for sale every now and then. I'm originally from West Hartford and go back to visit family twice a year. I remember Wayne had a 500E for sale this summer, feel like it sold in the 18k range-it was very clean and had something like only 40,000 miles.
Keep in mind that you could also keep the 300E as a daily and insure the C36 through a collectible car insurance company such as Hagerty's. That would cost you something miniscule like 100 dollars a year to insure the car, and most collectible insurances allow you to insure a vehicle at a stated value. For example, you think your C36 is worth 10,000 dollars, so that's what you insure it for (as opposed to a regular insurance company who will insure the car for about 5,000 dollars based on Kelley Blue Book). However all of this comes with a terms of use. Most collectible car insurance companies stipulate that you may only drive the car in certain circumstances. Ie you can't drive it to work, school, or the grocery store, but you could take it for a Sunday cruise. Most collectible insurances also have a yearly mileage quota that you cannot exceed, generally somewhere around 6,000 miles. It's a rather restrictive option for anyone who wants to regularly street their car, but if you are only planning on driving the C36 for occasional enjoyment, it could be a valid and inexpensive insurance option.
Also, if you're ever looking for a clean 500E in Connecticut, I know Wayne Carini of F40 Motorsports in Portland has one for sale every now and then. I'm originally from West Hartford and go back to visit family twice a year. I remember Wayne had a 500E for sale this summer, feel like it sold in the 18k range-it was very clean and had something like only 40,000 miles.
![naughty](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
#45
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Desert
Posts: 3,443
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
02 CLK 55 AMG,09 C63 loaded with P30
Oil burning? I use only Castrol Syntec 5-40w both my cars and doesnt burn oil. My C36 has 108k miles and use about 1/4 quart-3k miles. 0-60 in the mid 5sec.
#46
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#47
Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Carolina, US
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1992 300E, 1995 C36 AMG, 1969 VW Bug
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
Best 0-60 so far in my C36 is a 5.7 that's with no spare tire, ASR off, and a 2200 RPM launch.
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Lebanon
Posts: 370
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1995 C 36 AMG; 1992 W124 300E (M103 Ex Mosselman TT KIT) was 320hp @10psi now stock :(
in summer i use the Mobil1 15w50 which happens to have the highest anti wear (ZDDP; Mobile 1 15w50 has 1200ppm mobile 1 0w40 has 1000ppm; old oils had over 1500ppm) of all the oils in the market and is recommended for cars with the flat tappet lifters like the M104.
"Mobil 1 15W-50 is also recommended for older valve train designs that may benefit from a higher level of anti-wear normally not required for newer generation vehicles. Mobil 1 15W-50 will also provide better anti-wear protection for higher valve spring tensions in certain racing engines."
In winter its the Mobil1 0w40 as it gets cold here and i need it for the cold winter starts.
As for oil consumption, well if i drive my AMG without revving it to the red all day long, i mean just ur regular well behaved driving it hardly uses any oil. its the high revving that eats the oil, the occasional kick downs thru the gears hardly uses any oil. its the sustained high revving especially long runs where the oil gets very hot, thats when the car uses oil. to give u an idea there is a mountain pass i use regularly and on the up hill run i sometimes have the engine over 5000rpms for over 5 min.
Here's a post i found ( http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a...5/m/9231082891)
"If you go with STP use the red 4 cylinder stuff. About 1800 ppm zinc and phos. It's a lot thinner than the other. I rather would recommend Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment, 15 oz, which has about 1700 ppm z and p and moly boron and other goodies. Very nice stuff.
Big lots was selling CD2 High Perf Oil Boost which has about 4800 ppm z and p. Also CD2 75K oil add which has about 4000 ppm z and p. There are others if youwant to test them, including some stuff in round quart size by stp and fram.
GM EOS is around 8000 ppm z and p.
Modern oil about 800 ppm z and p. SL was around 1000 ppm. SH IIRC around 1200 ppm."
and here are links for those who like to read:
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
oils_and_zddp.pdf
"Mobil 1 15W-50 is also recommended for older valve train designs that may benefit from a higher level of anti-wear normally not required for newer generation vehicles. Mobil 1 15W-50 will also provide better anti-wear protection for higher valve spring tensions in certain racing engines."
In winter its the Mobil1 0w40 as it gets cold here and i need it for the cold winter starts.
As for oil consumption, well if i drive my AMG without revving it to the red all day long, i mean just ur regular well behaved driving it hardly uses any oil. its the high revving that eats the oil, the occasional kick downs thru the gears hardly uses any oil. its the sustained high revving especially long runs where the oil gets very hot, thats when the car uses oil. to give u an idea there is a mountain pass i use regularly and on the up hill run i sometimes have the engine over 5000rpms for over 5 min.
Here's a post i found ( http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a...5/m/9231082891)
"If you go with STP use the red 4 cylinder stuff. About 1800 ppm zinc and phos. It's a lot thinner than the other. I rather would recommend Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment, 15 oz, which has about 1700 ppm z and p and moly boron and other goodies. Very nice stuff.
Big lots was selling CD2 High Perf Oil Boost which has about 4800 ppm z and p. Also CD2 75K oil add which has about 4000 ppm z and p. There are others if youwant to test them, including some stuff in round quart size by stp and fram.
GM EOS is around 8000 ppm z and p.
Modern oil about 800 ppm z and p. SL was around 1000 ppm. SH IIRC around 1200 ppm."
and here are links for those who like to read:
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
oils_and_zddp.pdf
Last edited by jayrasheed; 10-21-2009 at 02:52 AM.
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Lebanon
Posts: 370
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1995 C 36 AMG; 1992 W124 300E (M103 Ex Mosselman TT KIT) was 320hp @10psi now stock :(
I do think having some oil on the cyl walls is a good thing for the rings and walls especially when the plugs come out clean at the end of their life.
But thats me and i might be wrong with my logic.