jumph4x

Oh, guys. Almost forgot.

Does anyone know where the drainplug on the engine itself is?! Couldn't find the bugger for the life of me.

I drained the radiator and reservoir no problem, but there was half the coolant left in the engine itself. Going off Bentley here as it quotes the car as having 11.1 qts of the mixture.

Anyone?

BenzMaster19

If your 36 is lagging THAT much when warm, then something is definitely
Wrong.

jumph4x

My car has no engine block coolant drain bolt. I am dead convinced.

I already didn't have the resonator box, I removed the clutch fan again, the shroud, the serpentine belt, even the damn alternator came off. My car simply doesn't have it. I don't know where else to look for it.

So I changed coolant the dilution way, **** it, add distilled water, rinse repeat until all I see and smell is water. Poured that Zerex G-05 stuff in there. Zero difference in heat dissipation capacity.

Somebody has made the comment to me when I mentioned this that my timing chain guides are ones to blame for that. Apparently they deteriorate very quickly on these engines. But I am still doubtful that the difference is that big.

What is more likely is that your car is delaying timing by a lot. When my harness ends on the knock sensors deteriorated and started shorting, the car thought it was pinging 24/7. So I would start it, warm it up for a minute and it would RIP. But then immediately became slow as all hell because of retarded timing.

These engines, from what I understand, retard timing for increased temperatures to prevent ping. That is half the motivation for all of this.

RANDY_P

Nope. It's temp related. It doesn't like life at 100c- Otherwise it pulls fine.

BenzMaster19

Hmm that's weird? Mine pulls very strong all across the temp range. Weird if you ask me!

RANDY_P

Our requirements are probably different.

rjp

BenzMaster19

Either that, or there is something wrong if you can notice a huge power lag at 100 degrees,, I mean the c36 won't run too happy At that temp yes, but none the less you should not notice a major decrease in power.

appatula

To be honest I find my car to be ballzy and pretty zippy until it gets warm. Then it seems like it looses that edge of torque. My C36 is like everyone elses unfortunatley .

jumph4x

So far so good.

Car clearly prefers the 79C Behr.

Still no viable plan to permanently delete mechanical fan. On the other hand I saw the huge pulley weight on the front of the engine right now and I realized: why bother. Won't do a thing.

jayrasheed

on my car i have the 69C' water temp bypass, and the elictric fans come on at 85c'. + a new fan clutch and brand new beher rad , yet on flat out runs uphill i see water temps hitting 95C'+

503C43 ////AMG

After reading this thread I have been paying close attention to my temps and I am aware that the C36 and C43 are different but my temp gauge barely goes above the 80c mark (like a millimeter) when I run my C43 HARD, I never notice any difference in performance. Would it be possible for you guys to copy the C43's cooling setup?

DRBC43AMG

Well, that is interesting as mine just creeps above the 80° mark when driving on the motorway at a steady 130-140 kmh. When driving hard in hot temperatures (over 30°c), the needle can climb to just under the upper mark (no figure indicated) which I assume would be the 100° mark. Do you think this could be a problem? I have changed the expansion tank cap which leaked and didn't pressurize correctly. No more leaks now.

503C43 ////AMG

Hmmmmm...... so your saying your needle goes just above the 80c mark like mine does. Like I said before mine goes like a millimeter above the 80c mark (I am assuming its like 83-87c). I have never seen my needle go above the temps I speak of.

jayrasheed

ok the unmarked white line is 90'C in mercs. 100 is abit over that white line, and 110 is just abt the midd below the 120.

In my M103 W124 and some few other mercs i have driven the cars for some time with the needle touchin the white side of the 120'C and i was told by a merc engineer that even then temps are still safe for the engine. i wouldn't do it in the 36 thou.
And you also lose alot of power even in the old tech W124s.

jumph4x

You have to think for yourself man. Do you also believe in the lifetime transmission and differential fluid bull****?

There is 'safe' and how it relates to the car warranty, which is all the company rep will give a **** about, and then there is 'whats actually good for the engine' and how it affects longevity and performance.

jayrasheed

ok i drove my w124 for almost 50000km with temp normally between 100'C and 110C'. i didnt even have to change a H.G. the engine lived to have 400000km on it and from 370000km to 395000+ it was turbo charged.

jumph4x

Whats the compression on that M103 and what is the compression on the stroked M104?

Are you not aware of M104 receding headgaskets?

jayrasheed

the comp on the M103 is 9.2 and the AmG is at 10.5
the M104 3.2 can take the hot running but the AMG HG on the strocked cant

jumph4x

Exactly my point.

RANDY_P

I just ordered the Cool Harness v2 for my car- straight from the guy who has that site showing this mod.

As soon as I turned the key from dead cold my temp gauge did this and the car wouldn't stay running unless I kept my foot on the gas.

Looks like the C36 is a weird one.

rjp

johnhef

I've been running with no fan for awhile now, with 2 long trips, a few autocrosses and 2 days at the track under its belt now too, temp never goes above 85C.

The thermostat for the 450SL is a 75C one, thats what I am using.

jumph4x

85, seems almost exactly what I have been getting in 70F weather, however on really hot days it would go as high as almost 90C, I think I saw it rise above once or twice.

Whatever the case, was no good.

The best setup for my use (New England) is 79C + both fans, electrical at stock engagement point.

nd4spd13

Been watching this thread for the past month now, good stuff on here. Got the 79C Behr thermometer and a nice little CAI/ram setup this week after I noticed that I had the stock c280 airbox with one intake rather than two like on the AMG boxes. Got a breather pipe sucking in air right from behind my missing fog, seemed a little cheaper than the $300+ fog lamp I needed. Any way car seems to love the extra air, cleaned the MAF off too while I was at it, but last night got P0116, which is the Coolant Temp. Sensor. Maybe it was just a very well timed part failure, but today I went to put on the new 79c unit, but I stripped the last of the ******g allen wrench bolts. All greasy on the outside and slightly seized on the inside. Anyone else done this? Any suggestions to get it off? I've done stripped bolts, but never circular outsides AND stripped insides like in this bolt.

johnhef

get a stud extractor set or find a close sized socket and hammer it into the head.

96AMG

(for c36)

try/do whatever you want but if temp is not CONSTANT at + or - 85, something is WRONG