[Experimental] Fan Delete Mod - 1996 C36
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
Likes: 70
From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
Oh, guys. Almost forgot.
Does anyone know where the drainplug on the engine itself is?! Couldn't find the bugger for the life of me.
I drained the radiator and reservoir no problem, but there was half the coolant left in the engine itself. Going off Bentley here as it quotes the car as having 11.1 qts of the mixture.
Anyone?
Does anyone know where the drainplug on the engine itself is?! Couldn't find the bugger for the life of me.
I drained the radiator and reservoir no problem, but there was half the coolant left in the engine itself. Going off Bentley here as it quotes the car as having 11.1 qts of the mixture.
Anyone?
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
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From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
My car has no engine block coolant drain bolt. I am dead convinced.
I already didn't have the resonator box, I removed the clutch fan again, the shroud, the serpentine belt, even the damn alternator came off. My car simply doesn't have it. I don't know where else to look for it.
So I changed coolant the dilution way, **** it, add distilled water, rinse repeat until all I see and smell is water. Poured that Zerex G-05 stuff in there. Zero difference in heat dissipation capacity.
Somebody has made the comment to me when I mentioned this that my timing chain guides are ones to blame for that. Apparently they deteriorate very quickly on these engines. But I am still doubtful that the difference is that big.
What is more likely is that your car is delaying timing by a lot. When my harness ends on the knock sensors deteriorated and started shorting, the car thought it was pinging 24/7. So I would start it, warm it up for a minute and it would RIP. But then immediately became slow as all hell because of retarded timing.
These engines, from what I understand, retard timing for increased temperatures to prevent ping. That is half the motivation for all of this.
I already didn't have the resonator box, I removed the clutch fan again, the shroud, the serpentine belt, even the damn alternator came off. My car simply doesn't have it. I don't know where else to look for it.
So I changed coolant the dilution way, **** it, add distilled water, rinse repeat until all I see and smell is water. Poured that Zerex G-05 stuff in there. Zero difference in heat dissipation capacity.
What is more likely is that your car is delaying timing by a lot. When my harness ends on the knock sensors deteriorated and started shorting, the car thought it was pinging 24/7. So I would start it, warm it up for a minute and it would RIP. But then immediately became slow as all hell because of retarded timing.
These engines, from what I understand, retard timing for increased temperatures to prevent ping. That is half the motivation for all of this.
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From: Seattle
1996 C36 AMG, 1970 LeMans Sport, a truck
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From: Seattle
1996 C36 AMG, 1970 LeMans Sport, a truck
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C36 AMG
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From: Connecticut, New Haven
95' AMG SeeThreeSix
To be honest I find my car to be ballzy and pretty zippy until it gets warm. Then it seems like it looses that edge of torque. My C36 is like everyone elses unfortunatley 
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Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
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From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
So far so good.
Car clearly prefers the 79C Behr.
Still no viable plan to permanently delete mechanical fan. On the other hand I saw the huge pulley weight on the front of the engine right now and I realized: why bother. Won't do a thing.
Car clearly prefers the 79C Behr.
Still no viable plan to permanently delete mechanical fan. On the other hand I saw the huge pulley weight on the front of the engine right now and I realized: why bother. Won't do a thing.
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Lebanon
1995 C 36 AMG; 1992 W124 300E (M103 Ex Mosselman TT KIT) was 320hp @10psi now stock :(
on my car i have the 69C' water temp bypass, and the elictric fans come on at 85c'. + a new fan clutch and brand new beher rad 
, yet on flat out runs uphill i see water temps hitting 95C'+
, yet on flat out runs uphill i see water temps hitting 95C'+
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From: PDX
1999 C43, 2008 P30 E63, 2014 SQ5, 2024 Model Y Performance
After reading this thread I have been paying close attention to my temps and I am aware that the C36 and C43 are different but my temp gauge barely goes above the 80c mark (like a millimeter) when I run my C43 HARD, I never notice any difference in performance. Would it be possible for you guys to copy the C43's cooling setup?
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From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
Well, that is interesting as mine just creeps above the 80° mark when driving on the motorway at a steady 130-140 kmh. When driving hard in hot temperatures (over 30°c), the needle can climb to just under the upper mark (no figure indicated) which I assume would be the 100° mark. Do you think this could be a problem? I have changed the expansion tank cap which leaked and didn't pressurize correctly. No more leaks now.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: PDX
1999 C43, 2008 P30 E63, 2014 SQ5, 2024 Model Y Performance
Well, that is interesting as mine just creeps above the 80° mark when driving on the motorway at a steady 130-140 kmh. When driving hard in hot temperatures (over 30°c), the needle can climb to just under the upper mark (no figure indicated) which I assume would be the 100° mark. Do you think this could be a problem? I have changed the expansion tank cap which leaked and didn't pressurize correctly. No more leaks now.
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From: Lebanon
1995 C 36 AMG; 1992 W124 300E (M103 Ex Mosselman TT KIT) was 320hp @10psi now stock :(
ok the unmarked white line is 90'C in mercs. 100 is abit over that white line, and 110 is just abt the midd below the 120.
In my M103 W124 and some few other mercs i have driven the cars for some time with the needle touchin the white side of the 120'C and i was told by a merc engineer that even then temps are still safe for the engine. i wouldn't do it in the 36 thou.
And you also lose alot of power even in the old tech W124s.
In my M103 W124 and some few other mercs i have driven the cars for some time with the needle touchin the white side of the 120'C and i was told by a merc engineer that even then temps are still safe for the engine. i wouldn't do it in the 36 thou.
And you also lose alot of power even in the old tech W124s.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
ok the unmarked white line is 90'C in mercs. 100 is abit over that white line, and 110 is just abt the midd below the 120.
In my M103 W124 and some few other mercs i have driven the cars for some time with the needle touchin the white side of the 120'C and i was told by a merc engineer that even then temps are still safe for the engine. i wouldn't do it in the 36 thou.
And you also lose alot of power even in the old tech W124s.
In my M103 W124 and some few other mercs i have driven the cars for some time with the needle touchin the white side of the 120'C and i was told by a merc engineer that even then temps are still safe for the engine. i wouldn't do it in the 36 thou.
And you also lose alot of power even in the old tech W124s.
There is 'safe' and how it relates to the car warranty, which is all the company rep will give a **** about, and then there is 'whats actually good for the engine' and how it affects longevity and performance.
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From: Lebanon
1995 C 36 AMG; 1992 W124 300E (M103 Ex Mosselman TT KIT) was 320hp @10psi now stock :(
You have to think for yourself man. Do you also believe in the lifetime transmission and differential fluid bull****?
There is 'safe' and how it relates to the car warranty, which is all the company rep will give a **** about, and then there is 'whats actually good for the engine' and how it affects longevity and performance.
There is 'safe' and how it relates to the car warranty, which is all the company rep will give a **** about, and then there is 'whats actually good for the engine' and how it affects longevity and performance.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
Are you not aware of M104 receding headgaskets?
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From: Lebanon
1995 C 36 AMG; 1992 W124 300E (M103 Ex Mosselman TT KIT) was 320hp @10psi now stock :(
the comp on the M103 is 9.2 and the AmG is at 10.5
the M104 3.2 can take the hot running but the AMG HG on the strocked cant
the M104 3.2 can take the hot running but the AMG HG on the strocked cant
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
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From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 173
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From: Seattle
1996 C36 AMG, 1970 LeMans Sport, a truck
Cool Harness mod + C36 = possible fail.
I just ordered the Cool Harness v2 for my car- straight from the guy who has that site showing this mod.
As soon as I turned the key from dead cold my temp gauge did this and the car wouldn't stay running unless I kept my foot on the gas.
Looks like the C36 is a weird one.
rjp
As soon as I turned the key from dead cold my temp gauge did this and the car wouldn't stay running unless I kept my foot on the gas.
Looks like the C36 is a weird one.
rjp
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From: Frederick MD
83 500SEC, 87 300D, 02 C32(x2), 02 C320T (x2), 03 C320T4, 03 C320T, 03 E55, 05 E320CDI, 06 E320CDI
I've been running with no fan for awhile now, with 2 long trips, a few autocrosses and 2 days at the track under its belt now too, temp never goes above 85C.
The thermostat for the 450SL is a 75C one, thats what I am using.
The thermostat for the 450SL is a 75C one, thats what I am using.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 998
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From: Oakland
W210 DRFT BNZ
Whatever the case, was no good.
The best setup for my use (New England) is 79C + both fans, electrical at stock engagement point.
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From: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
Been watching this thread for the past month now, good stuff on here. Got the 79C Behr thermometer and a nice little CAI/ram setup this week after I noticed that I had the stock c280 airbox with one intake rather than two like on the AMG boxes. Got a breather pipe sucking in air right from behind my missing fog, seemed a little cheaper than the $300+ fog lamp I needed. Any way car seems to love the extra air, cleaned the MAF off too while I was at it, but last night got P0116, which is the Coolant Temp. Sensor. Maybe it was just a very well timed part failure, but today I went to put on the new 79c unit, but I stripped the last of the ******g allen wrench bolts. All greasy on the outside and slightly seized on the inside. Anyone else done this? Any suggestions to get it off? I've done stripped bolts, but never circular outsides AND stripped insides like in this bolt.
