Wont shift into 2nd gear
#26
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1998 C43, 2017 Honda Accord Sport
Another update: Went to drive the car today (this time at 11am instead of 9am--after sitting since the previous day). This time, I had no issues. Only changes in factors were the extra 2 hours (in the sun) and I was changing wheels, during which the car was lop-sided for an hour or so.
Kinda odd it didn't happen today when it's been happening every other morning like clockwork for the past week or so. Maybe it's because the trans fluid was warmer and the jacking up of the car moved the fluid around (perhaps it is the fluid that needs to be changed?).
Also, found this in the manual:
Maybe my cat is going?
I know I'm due for a trans flush but I can't fit it into my budget at the moment, so I'm trying to justify whether it needs to be done this moment or not.
Kinda odd it didn't happen today when it's been happening every other morning like clockwork for the past week or so. Maybe it's because the trans fluid was warmer and the jacking up of the car moved the fluid around (perhaps it is the fluid that needs to be changed?).
Also, found this in the manual:
"With the selector lever in position "D", "4" or "3", upshifting from 1st to 2nd to 3rd gear is delayed depending on vehicle speed and engine temperature. This allows the catalytic converter to heat up more quickly to operating temperatures. During the brief warm-up period this delayed upshift and increased engine noise might be perceived as a malfunction. However, neither the engine nor transmission are negatively affected by this mode of operation..."
I know I'm due for a trans flush but I can't fit it into my budget at the moment, so I'm trying to justify whether it needs to be done this moment or not.
#27
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Another update: Went to drive the car today (this time at 11am instead of 9am--after sitting since the previous day). This time, I had no issues. Only changes in factors were the extra 2 hours (in the sun) and I was changing wheels, during which the car was lop-sided for an hour or so.
Kinda odd it didn't happen today when it's been happening every other morning like clockwork for the past week or so. Maybe it's because the trans fluid was warmer and the jacking up of the car moved the fluid around (perhaps it is the fluid that needs to be changed?).
Also, found this in the manual:
Maybe my cat is going?
I know I'm due for a trans flush but I can't fit it into my budget at the moment, so I'm trying to justify whether it needs to be done this moment or not.
Kinda odd it didn't happen today when it's been happening every other morning like clockwork for the past week or so. Maybe it's because the trans fluid was warmer and the jacking up of the car moved the fluid around (perhaps it is the fluid that needs to be changed?).
Also, found this in the manual:
Maybe my cat is going?
I know I'm due for a trans flush but I can't fit it into my budget at the moment, so I'm trying to justify whether it needs to be done this moment or not.
Also try this, when you are having the problems switch from "D" to "4" and see if the problem persists
Were you able to leave it in "N"?
#28
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1998 C43, 2017 Honda Accord Sport
Everything you are saying is right inline with the issue I have, the EGS. You still haven't answered my question about the lights (i.e "D", "4", "3", etc...) do they light up???
Also try this, when you are having the problems switch from "D" to "4" and see if the problem persists
Were you able to leave it in "N"?
Also try this, when you are having the problems switch from "D" to "4" and see if the problem persists
Were you able to leave it in "N"?
No, I couldn't leave it in "N"; it wouldn't let me take the key out if I did.
#29
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Get your tranny serviced, it is needed and you can eliminate 1 variable
#30
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1998 C43, 2017 Honda Accord Sport
Yeah. Also, do you happen to know the cost of an EGS? Autohausaz doesn't have it (unless it's this $14 part--Shift Lever/Selector; Parking Release Lever with Boot at Transmission)
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1997 c36 ///AMG
My issue was the conductor plate it was fried because my alternator was overcharging everything on my car it was charging 20amps which is way too high so conductor plate was the first to go which made my tranny not shift out of first gear. I got my idler pulleys replaced and tranny flushed and new alternator now. After I got that done couple weeks after my car just takes a while to get warmed up like first gear is rough but after 20 mins of driving the car goes back to normal but few times the car struggles to climb it feels like a miss fire to me when I'm at the light the idle is rough sometimes what do you guys think it is
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1998 C43, 2017 Honda Accord Sport
Another update:
Now I have the problem when the engine is warm (after driving somewhere, parking, coming back and driving again). I never this problem with a warm-start until last night. I looked at the lights (D, N, R, etc); all were properly lit up.
I noticed a little slipping too...also a first. Didn't hear grinding or any sounds that make me cringe, thank god.
I made an appointment at the local AAMCO to get a filter/fluid change ($198...not bad, compared to the $399 the stealership wanted) next week.
I really hope it's just low/dirty fluid. I really can't afford for anything major right now.
Now I have the problem when the engine is warm (after driving somewhere, parking, coming back and driving again). I never this problem with a warm-start until last night. I looked at the lights (D, N, R, etc); all were properly lit up.
I noticed a little slipping too...also a first. Didn't hear grinding or any sounds that make me cringe, thank god.
I made an appointment at the local AAMCO to get a filter/fluid change ($198...not bad, compared to the $399 the stealership wanted) next week.
I really hope it's just low/dirty fluid. I really can't afford for anything major right now.
#36
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It's your car, but I wouldn't let AAMCO empty my ashtray. You may wish to inquire as to what kind of fluid they intend to use. The local AAMCO tells customers that they dump an additive into a brand-x fluid, and it magically becomes MB transmission fluid.
#37
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1998 C43, 2017 Honda Accord Sport
I shared your skepticism at first, but the guy I talked to stated that he had to order the fluid from the MB dealer (hence the appointment for next week), so I know they're gonna put genuine stuff in it.
#38
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2017 991.2 Turbo PDK 2017 C63S Coupe Ceramic Brakes 2015 CLS63S AMG Full House
Could possibly be the valve body, this is all too familiar to me what your describing. Just had this on my CLK55 a couple of months ago where the car wouldn't shift into higher gears the rpms would just climb forever, even if I put it in manual mode it wouldn't let me shift. Turns out the valve body had to be replaced and now the car is fine, maybe look into that. Hope you figure it out but DON'T drive the car in that condition, you might just do more damage.
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1998 C43, 2017 Honda Accord Sport
Update:
Dropped the car off at my mechanic's shop this morning rather than AAMCO (he insisted I take it to him, despite being $50 more expensive for a fluid/filter change, so I opted to). Just got a call back. The ATF fluid is leaking by the AT plug adapter ($13 part) and the fluid is also burned. They advised changing the filter/fluid (duh...gonna do that anyway) and replacing the switch. That's all they found (so far).
Whew.
Dropped the car off at my mechanic's shop this morning rather than AAMCO (he insisted I take it to him, despite being $50 more expensive for a fluid/filter change, so I opted to). Just got a call back. The ATF fluid is leaking by the AT plug adapter ($13 part) and the fluid is also burned. They advised changing the filter/fluid (duh...gonna do that anyway) and replacing the switch. That's all they found (so far).
Whew.
#41
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You may want to have him triple check the TCU. It's common for the fluid to leak at the plug, wick up the wiring harness and deposit itself on the TCU.
#42
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1998 C43, 2017 Honda Accord Sport
Once again, another update.
Got the trans fluild/filter/gasket changed and the AT plug adapter replaced. Trans fluid was burnt and the plug was leaking.
Drove it home; drove like a charm. Mechanic said he test drove it for 5 miles before I picked it up and had no problems. I felt crisper shifts...definitely needed the fluid change.
Total damage: $442.
This morning, I had the problem again. Can't get out of 3rd. Could be anything at this point. Conductor plate, EGS, who knows. My mechanic (guy I trust and have gone to for years) said everything else checked out when he looked at it, so the hell if I know.
Got the trans fluild/filter/gasket changed and the AT plug adapter replaced. Trans fluid was burnt and the plug was leaking.
Drove it home; drove like a charm. Mechanic said he test drove it for 5 miles before I picked it up and had no problems. I felt crisper shifts...definitely needed the fluid change.
Total damage: $442.
This morning, I had the problem again. Can't get out of 3rd. Could be anything at this point. Conductor plate, EGS, who knows. My mechanic (guy I trust and have gone to for years) said everything else checked out when he looked at it, so the hell if I know.
#44
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Dumping the codes should give you an indication as to what's wrong with it. The alternative is a guessing game at best, and that could get expensive.