HELP!!! C43 DOWN FOR THE COUNT!!
#26
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Hmm...I seem to recall that the piston orifices on the insides of the caliper are different sizes, ie. the casting on the caliper body itself. I dunno if just moving the pistons from one orifice to the other would work. I will have a look at the spare set of S500 4 piston calipers I have kicking around and see (while they are different calipers, I believe they come from the same 'family' and thus should be broadly similar in construction).
#27
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SIGH.....
I guess I was mistaken on the delivery of my calipers as they will not be here until tomorrow. 1 more day without my C43
I guess I was mistaken on the delivery of my calipers as they will not be here until tomorrow. 1 more day without my C43
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#28
Some of the Crossfire guys have been running the C32 calipers upside down (piston sizes reversed) for some time now with no adverse pad or rotor wear. Additionally, you can use the crossfire SRT brakes and calipers (330mm vs. 334 mm) for another low cost option.
#30
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UPDATE:
CALIPERS HAVE ARRIVED!!! I am going to paint them today and install them tomorrow. The thread on the front SS lines have been compromised due to the cross threading so I believe I will have to order some more
CALIPERS HAVE ARRIVED!!! I am going to paint them today and install them tomorrow. The thread on the front SS lines have been compromised due to the cross threading so I believe I will have to order some more
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#31
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1998 Mercedes-Benz C43 AMG
before you paint, seriously consider having them powder coated instead. it doesnt cost much and it will last much longer.
#32
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The thought had crossed my mind but I am anxious to get them back on so I can drive my C43, it has been WAYYYY too long and I can't wait much longer
#33
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UPDATE:
Just ordered another set of Stoptech SS front brake lines, decided I didn't want to risk the chance of a leak.
Just ordered another set of Stoptech SS front brake lines, decided I didn't want to risk the chance of a leak.
#34
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Just finished painting the first caliper. I painted the calipers black and outlined the /////AMG logo in silver. It isn't as nice as I would of liked but it definitely looks good from a couple feet away which will work for me.
![](http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc470/Jayo503/Painted%20rotors/Paintedcalipers.jpg)
#36
Jason, how much did you have to pay for a new caliper?
When you painted the caliper in black color what did you use to cover the AMG logo with?
The silver paint on the AMG logo is it the original paint from factory when they painted the caliper?
Caliper painting looks cool
Silver paint looks good until it gets covered by brake dust.
When you painted the caliper in black color what did you use to cover the AMG logo with?
The silver paint on the AMG logo is it the original paint from factory when they painted the caliper?
Caliper painting looks cool
Silver paint looks good until it gets covered by brake dust.
#38
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Jason, how much did you have to pay for a new caliper?
When you painted the caliper in black color what did you use to cover the AMG logo with?
The silver paint on the AMG logo is it the original paint from factory when they painted the caliper?
Caliper painting looks cool
Silver paint looks good until it gets covered by brake dust.
When you painted the caliper in black color what did you use to cover the AMG logo with?
The silver paint on the AMG logo is it the original paint from factory when they painted the caliper?
Caliper painting looks cool
Silver paint looks good until it gets covered by brake dust.
The calipers do not come painted. I painted the calipers black and then used a high temp paint pen to color the logo silver. I am installing Akebono brake pads so the brake dust should be minimal.
#39
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#40
please post a link.
Hi temp pens do they keep the paint solid and unfading for long time on caliper?
Yeah I hope Akebono's are as good as people say they are regarding cleanliness and stopping power!
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
#41
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The high temp pen I used is good up to 500° so I am assuming that it will not fade that quick but if it does it will be an easy touch up.
There are a couple members on here who are using the same Akebono pads I am installing and I have seen pictures of their rims after 1 week and they look like they were just cleaned.
#42
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Why can't it ever be easy???
Doing my brakes today and got the drivers side squared away no problems. I move on to the passenger side caliper and have everything removed but the brake pad wear sensor. I begin to remove it and the torx bit snaps off in the screw head (like breaking your key off in the lock) I have been dealing with this for the last 4 hours![wall](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/banghead.gif)
I tried using a punch to loosen it and a magnet to extract it - didn't work
I tried using a screw extractor but the torx bit seems to be some sort of hardened metal and I can't drill into it
I am charging up my dremel to cut a slot in the screw and bit to see if I can back it out with a flat head (with the way everything works for me this won't work either....)
I really wish I had taken it in to a shop to have this done as this has been a ****ING headache to say the least as well as me without my C43 for almost 3 weeks now. All this trouble just to save $500
Doing my brakes today and got the drivers side squared away no problems. I move on to the passenger side caliper and have everything removed but the brake pad wear sensor. I begin to remove it and the torx bit snaps off in the screw head (like breaking your key off in the lock) I have been dealing with this for the last 4 hours
![wall](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/banghead.gif)
I tried using a punch to loosen it and a magnet to extract it - didn't work
I tried using a screw extractor but the torx bit seems to be some sort of hardened metal and I can't drill into it
I am charging up my dremel to cut a slot in the screw and bit to see if I can back it out with a flat head (with the way everything works for me this won't work either....)
I really wish I had taken it in to a shop to have this done as this has been a ****ING headache to say the least as well as me without my C43 for almost 3 weeks now. All this trouble just to save $500
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
#43
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1998 Mercedes-Benz C43 AMG
Why can't it ever be easy???
Doing my brakes today and got the drivers side squared away no problems. I move on to the passenger side caliper and have everything removed but the brake pad wear sensor. I begin to remove it and the torx bit snaps off in the screw head (like breaking your key off in the lock) I have been dealing with this for the last 4 hours![wall](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/banghead.gif)
I tried using a punch to loosen it and a magnet to extract it - didn't work
I tried using a screw extractor but the torx bit seems to be some sort of hardened metal and I can't drill into it
I am charging up my dremel to cut a slot in the screw and bit to see if I can back it out with a flat head (with the way everything works for me this won't work either....)
I really wish I had taken it in to a shop to have this done as this has been a ****ING headache to say the least as well as me without my C43 for almost 3 weeks now. All this trouble just to save $500![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
Doing my brakes today and got the drivers side squared away no problems. I move on to the passenger side caliper and have everything removed but the brake pad wear sensor. I begin to remove it and the torx bit snaps off in the screw head (like breaking your key off in the lock) I have been dealing with this for the last 4 hours
![wall](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/banghead.gif)
I tried using a punch to loosen it and a magnet to extract it - didn't work
I tried using a screw extractor but the torx bit seems to be some sort of hardened metal and I can't drill into it
I am charging up my dremel to cut a slot in the screw and bit to see if I can back it out with a flat head (with the way everything works for me this won't work either....)
I really wish I had taken it in to a shop to have this done as this has been a ****ING headache to say the least as well as me without my C43 for almost 3 weeks now. All this trouble just to save $500
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
#46
MBWorld Fanatic!
Why can't it ever be easy???
Doing my brakes today and got the drivers side squared away no problems. I move on to the passenger side caliper and have everything removed but the brake pad wear sensor. I begin to remove it and the torx bit snaps off in the screw head (like breaking your key off in the lock) I have been dealing with this for the last 4 hours![wall](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/banghead.gif)
Doing my brakes today and got the drivers side squared away no problems. I move on to the passenger side caliper and have everything removed but the brake pad wear sensor. I begin to remove it and the torx bit snaps off in the screw head (like breaking your key off in the lock) I have been dealing with this for the last 4 hours
![wall](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/banghead.gif)
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
To remove a busted torx bit, if you can cut a slot, I'd use and impact screwdriver - the kind you hit with a hammer to drive is out. The screwdriver bit turns counter clockwise when hit. If that doesn't work, if you can cut a slot, you may be able to cut what's left of the bit in half. Which brand of torx bits? So I know which manufacturer makes theirs out of recycled tin cans and I can avoid theirs. It's always the little things. Best wishes
#47
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202 brakes must be different than 208s. The pad sensor on a 208 slips into the pad itself the other end slips into an electrical connection. No tools are used. ![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
To remove a busted torx bit, if you can cut a slot, I'd use and impact screwdriver - the kind you hit with a hammer to drive is out. The screwdriver bit turns counter clockwise when hit. If that doesn't work, if you can cut a slot, you may be able to cut what's left of the bit in half. Which brand of torx bits? So I know which manufacturer makes theirs out of recycled tin cans and I can avoid theirs. It's always the little things. Best wishes
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
To remove a busted torx bit, if you can cut a slot, I'd use and impact screwdriver - the kind you hit with a hammer to drive is out. The screwdriver bit turns counter clockwise when hit. If that doesn't work, if you can cut a slot, you may be able to cut what's left of the bit in half. Which brand of torx bits? So I know which manufacturer makes theirs out of recycled tin cans and I can avoid theirs. It's always the little things. Best wishes
I have a slot cut but it was not deep enough and I was running out of daylight so I didn't get to finish the job. I am going to try and finish it tomorrow...
#48
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Jeez
you really are going through a bad streak of luck. Hopefully I won't experience this when I do a full overhaul of my brakes (front and back) in the near future.
![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#49
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![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#50