Brake lines are CRACKED! replace with oem or go STEEL?
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1999 C43 AMG
Brake lines are CRACKED! replace with oem or go STEEL?
any suggestions and is it worth the up cost in steel brake lines?
any brand you suggest and where to buy? happened to look under car and BAM! the brake lines are crackin!
any brand you suggest and where to buy? happened to look under car and BAM! the brake lines are crackin!
#2
go for ss brakelines, i have goodridge stuff on my car, gave me a great placebo effect!
might even get better braking preformance with my c55 caliper upgrade
#3
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Most of us who have the SS brake lines have either Stoptech (this is what I have) or goodridge.
It comes down to a matter of preference as I am sure both are about the same quality
I would go with the SS brake lines as they are probably the same price, if not cheaper, than OEM
It comes down to a matter of preference as I am sure both are about the same quality
I would go with the SS brake lines as they are probably the same price, if not cheaper, than OEM
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
+1 SS over rubber any time. The SS lines come Teflon covered now to decrease risk of SS rubbing against anything as they are very coarse and aggressive
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1999 C43 AMG
stoptech lines are around 70?
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/75A4620A0A0.aspx
tirerack has them for 120?
is this right?
#6
where did you guys buy your SS brake lines? i checked on autohause and brake lines oem are less than 20 bucks?! but why are the SS steel so pricey?! on ebay theyre listed at over 100 bucks
stoptech lines are around 70?
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/75A4620A0A0.aspx
tirerack has them for 120?
is this right?
stoptech lines are around 70?
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/75A4620A0A0.aspx
tirerack has them for 120?
is this right?
I bought mine from ebay, very happy with them Goodridge stuff
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1999 C43 AMG
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Just make sure you don't cross the threads if u are doing the install yourself, otherwise your up the creek with a very small paddle. I know because I'm up there now You need to do a full brake flush and use good quality flkuid like the ATE Super Blue Racing
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P.S. ATE Super Blue racing fluid FTMFW
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
In any case, it's not before June 21 or 22 that I can get back to spannering as I'm away in cardio readaptation, sweating and sweating some more
#12
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Hi Jason, No I don't remember your brake line fiasco. Can you post the link here? That way I'll have a quicker look and read
In any case, it's not before June 21 or 22 that I can get back to spannering as I'm away in cardio readaptation, sweating and sweating some more
In any case, it's not before June 21 or 22 that I can get back to spannering as I'm away in cardio readaptation, sweating and sweating some more
My 27 day fiasco
https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...own-count.html
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Thanks for the link, but you cross threaded the calipers. I cross threaded the end of the steel line to the entry of the SS line, meaning I have to remove the brake line from the car. Have done the front driver side (easy), but the passenger side means meandering the line from the driver's side on the bottom of the engine craddle to the other side. Have followed the line with my fingers and hopefully it can be removed without pulling out the engine
https://mbworld.org/forums/5209030-post81.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/5209030-post81.html
Last edited by DRBC43AMG; 06-06-2012 at 03:51 PM. Reason: Added link
#14
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Thanks for the link, but you cross threaded the calipers. I cross threaded the end of the steel line to the entry of the SS line, meaning I have to remove the brake line from the car. Have done the front driver side (easy), but the passenger side means meandering the line from the driver's side on the bottom of the engine craddle to the other side. Have followed the line with my fingers and hopefully it can be removed without pulling out the engine
https://mbworld.org/forums/5209030-post81.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/5209030-post81.html
That sucks I was deathly afraid of cross threading the steel line after my caliper fiasco.
I hope everything works out for you
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
I hope so too, otherwise I may end up with a second heart attach in desperation
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1999 MB C43 AMG
Hey guys,
I know this thread is a bit "old" but I'm looking at purchasing SS brake lines as well as new pads for the car. The brakes lines will get flushed and I'm looking to replace the fluid with ATE Super Blue racing fluid. I have 3 questions though:
1. I'm debating between Goodridge and Stoptech for the SS lines. Do you guys know why the Stoptech ones usually go for around $70 whereas the Goodridge are more around $120 ?? Any major quality difference?
2. How much ATE fluid should I buy? I think it comes in bottle of 1L.
3. I'm looking at going Akebono for the pads and purchase their Euro Ceramic Pads as I heard a lot of good things about the low dust deposit and good stopping power.
Cheers!
I know this thread is a bit "old" but I'm looking at purchasing SS brake lines as well as new pads for the car. The brakes lines will get flushed and I'm looking to replace the fluid with ATE Super Blue racing fluid. I have 3 questions though:
1. I'm debating between Goodridge and Stoptech for the SS lines. Do you guys know why the Stoptech ones usually go for around $70 whereas the Goodridge are more around $120 ?? Any major quality difference?
2. How much ATE fluid should I buy? I think it comes in bottle of 1L.
3. I'm looking at going Akebono for the pads and purchase their Euro Ceramic Pads as I heard a lot of good things about the low dust deposit and good stopping power.
Cheers!
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Hi,
If your flex lines are showing some cracks, it's urgently time to do something about it
Take this occasion do to some simple but effective brake upgrades. I have nothing against OEM flex lines, but on the long run and some time down the road, you will need to change them again as they are expendable. Also remember that over time rubber flex lines become soft and your brake pedal will start feeling like marshmellows and brake efficiency will decrease.
Personally I would go for the SS flex lines with teflon outer coated too. Goodridge are a top class manufacturer and as such have nothing extra to prove to the world as they are at the top of the list regarding there stuff. I would guess that a large majority of racing machines have some form of Goodridge piping, either for brakes or pressure lines (oil, water, etc.) which is also a good indication for the quality of the products. My choice for Goodridge was basically because they are TüV certified which is an absolute necessity in this country when doing any modifications.
I unfortunately have no experience with Stoptech, but I hear they also have some good products. My previous SS lines purchased in the UK where absolute s**t and the cause for cross-threading a pipe when trying to install them. That cost me time and patience too.
Regarding brake fluid, here again go for a good quality product, with a minimum DOT4 rating. The most important in a brake fluid is its boiling (flash) point temperature level. The higher the better. Don't forget that a brake fluid must be changed at least every two years, less if you are tracking often, or live in a high humidity environment. Castrol SRF is among the best fluids but needs to be changed often and it is expensive. Several of us on here use the ATE Super Blue racing. Its nice because when you have used another fluid with a different color, the ATE can been seen immediately when you are bleeding the brake system. In most cases a 1lt can should be sufficient for a good flush and bleed. I used a little bit more because all my brake lines where empty and I bled the system several times until the pedal was nice and firm. Oh, I use a Motive pressure bleeder which enables bleeding single handed
Lastly, if your discs are in good condition and with plenty of meat on them, consider getting some upgraded pads. Plenty of good makes around but make sure you don't get some junk stuff because the sales talk sounds nice...
Remember, when working on your brakes, your life and that of others can be at stake, so don't play around with cheap stuff and check twice all the work you do.
Enjoy the driving after
If your flex lines are showing some cracks, it's urgently time to do something about it
Take this occasion do to some simple but effective brake upgrades. I have nothing against OEM flex lines, but on the long run and some time down the road, you will need to change them again as they are expendable. Also remember that over time rubber flex lines become soft and your brake pedal will start feeling like marshmellows and brake efficiency will decrease.
Personally I would go for the SS flex lines with teflon outer coated too. Goodridge are a top class manufacturer and as such have nothing extra to prove to the world as they are at the top of the list regarding there stuff. I would guess that a large majority of racing machines have some form of Goodridge piping, either for brakes or pressure lines (oil, water, etc.) which is also a good indication for the quality of the products. My choice for Goodridge was basically because they are TüV certified which is an absolute necessity in this country when doing any modifications.
I unfortunately have no experience with Stoptech, but I hear they also have some good products. My previous SS lines purchased in the UK where absolute s**t and the cause for cross-threading a pipe when trying to install them. That cost me time and patience too.
Regarding brake fluid, here again go for a good quality product, with a minimum DOT4 rating. The most important in a brake fluid is its boiling (flash) point temperature level. The higher the better. Don't forget that a brake fluid must be changed at least every two years, less if you are tracking often, or live in a high humidity environment. Castrol SRF is among the best fluids but needs to be changed often and it is expensive. Several of us on here use the ATE Super Blue racing. Its nice because when you have used another fluid with a different color, the ATE can been seen immediately when you are bleeding the brake system. In most cases a 1lt can should be sufficient for a good flush and bleed. I used a little bit more because all my brake lines where empty and I bled the system several times until the pedal was nice and firm. Oh, I use a Motive pressure bleeder which enables bleeding single handed
Lastly, if your discs are in good condition and with plenty of meat on them, consider getting some upgraded pads. Plenty of good makes around but make sure you don't get some junk stuff because the sales talk sounds nice...
Remember, when working on your brakes, your life and that of others can be at stake, so don't play around with cheap stuff and check twice all the work you do.
Enjoy the driving after
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Thank you for the lengthy reply. Just to clarify, my brakes are fine, they went through an overall (new rotors, pads, sensors, etc) about 2 years ago and I do about 10,000 miles top a year.
I just feel like the pedal feel has been degrading lately so I was thinking about flushing the brake fluid and while I'm at it, I was thinking about changing the pads, and upgrading the lines.
I'm not doing the work myself but everything will be done by a certified MB master mechanic.
I'm just hesitating between StopTech and Goodridge for the lines and was questioning the price difference.
Everybody seems to have good experience with ATE so I'll go with that brand. Was more questioning the amount needed, which you answered.
Thanks again!
I just feel like the pedal feel has been degrading lately so I was thinking about flushing the brake fluid and while I'm at it, I was thinking about changing the pads, and upgrading the lines.
I'm not doing the work myself but everything will be done by a certified MB master mechanic.
I'm just hesitating between StopTech and Goodridge for the lines and was questioning the price difference.
Everybody seems to have good experience with ATE so I'll go with that brand. Was more questioning the amount needed, which you answered.
Thanks again!
#19
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Thank you for the lengthy reply. Just to clarify, my brakes are fine, they went through an overall (new rotors, pads, sensors, etc) about 2 years ago and I do about 10,000 miles top a year.
I just feel like the pedal feel has been degrading lately so I was thinking about flushing the brake fluid and while I'm at it, I was thinking about changing the pads, and upgrading the lines.
I'm not doing the work myself but everything will be done by a certified MB master mechanic.
I'm just hesitating between StopTech and Goodridge for the lines and was questioning the price difference.
Everybody seems to have good experience with ATE so I'll go with that brand. Was more questioning the amount needed, which you answered.
Thanks again!
I just feel like the pedal feel has been degrading lately so I was thinking about flushing the brake fluid and while I'm at it, I was thinking about changing the pads, and upgrading the lines.
I'm not doing the work myself but everything will be done by a certified MB master mechanic.
I'm just hesitating between StopTech and Goodridge for the lines and was questioning the price difference.
Everybody seems to have good experience with ATE so I'll go with that brand. Was more questioning the amount needed, which you answered.
Thanks again!
I also have the ATE superblue fluid