For those with c32 brakes. Need input.
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From: A.D., U.A.E
2000 (W202 C200) & 2000 (W202 C55)
Yes, correct,
C43/CLK55/E55, caliper is (7.3kg), Rotor is (10.2kg)
i'm using W202 C280 set-up, since almost 3 years,
C280 weight comparing to C43:-
Front Rotor: (5.9kg) vs (10.2kg),
Rear Rotor: (3.3kg) vs (6.9kg),
Front Caliper with Pads: (4.8kg) vs (7.3kg),
Rear Caliper with Pads: (2.8kg) vs (3.4kg),
ZAYED,,
C43/CLK55/E55, caliper is (7.3kg), Rotor is (10.2kg)
i'm using W202 C280 set-up, since almost 3 years,
C280 weight comparing to C43:-
Front Rotor: (5.9kg) vs (10.2kg),
Rear Rotor: (3.3kg) vs (6.9kg),
Front Caliper with Pads: (4.8kg) vs (7.3kg),
Rear Caliper with Pads: (2.8kg) vs (3.4kg),
ZAYED,,
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Yes, correct,
C43/CLK55/E55, caliper is (7.3kg), Rotor is (10.2kg)
i'm using W202 C280 set-up, since almost 3 years,
C280 weight comparing to C43:-
Front Rotor: (5.9kg) vs (10.2kg),
Rear Rotor: (3.3kg) vs (6.9kg),
Front Caliper with Pads: (4.8kg) vs (7.3kg),
Rear Caliper with Pads: (2.8kg) vs (3.4kg),
ZAYED,,
C43/CLK55/E55, caliper is (7.3kg), Rotor is (10.2kg)
i'm using W202 C280 set-up, since almost 3 years,
C280 weight comparing to C43:-
Front Rotor: (5.9kg) vs (10.2kg),
Rear Rotor: (3.3kg) vs (6.9kg),
Front Caliper with Pads: (4.8kg) vs (7.3kg),
Rear Caliper with Pads: (2.8kg) vs (3.4kg),
ZAYED,,
thanks for all the necessary input
i will contact seller who sells the flexible bend extension hoses.
this was great news, thanks bro
regarding W203 AMG calipers
weight difference between C43 calipers/rotors vs C55 calipers/rotors is only 300 grams in favor to C55 brake combo if your numbers are correct?
however we don't know how much weight difference it is between brakepads on both brakesystems?
they might be similar in weight?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: A.D., U.A.E
2000 (W202 C200) & 2000 (W202 C55)
Welcome Dannis & Paul,
I remember scales that before, https://mbworld.org/forums/5700953-post29.html
C43 pads are (3kg),
C55 pads are (1.9kg),
ZAYED,,
I remember scales that before, https://mbworld.org/forums/5700953-post29.html
C43 pads are (3kg),
C55 pads are (1.9kg),
ZAYED,,
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,053
Likes: 398
From: A.D., U.A.E
2000 (W202 C200) & 2000 (W202 C55)
RB racing providing an Excellent 2 piece lightweight Rotors:-
*C43/CLK55/E55
https://www.racingbrake.com/ProductD...oductCode=2284
*C32/C55
http://www.racingbrake.com/C32-CLK55...ONT-p/2118.htm
ZAYED,,
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Oregon
'97 c36
Yup m10x1 I just went to the local hydraulic shop and they had the coupler and a hard line pre-made. I just had to bend it into the s-shape like you see and then make a bracket out of some 3/4 inch x 3/16 flat bar to hold everything real tight. Can't be too careful with brake mods others safety depend on your handy work not to mention yourself. As far as the flex hose and banjo fitting I have concerns your heading down a bad path. The reason why i say that is because when the spindle goes to full lock for a right hand turn. The drivers side not only has a really tight clearance for any line coming out of the caliper but also puts the flex line in a very tight radius. I'm not an expert, so I asked the guys at the hydraulic shop who are and how tight you can repetitively bend a braided Teflon brake line. He said he would not make a radius of more a 90 degrees in 2 inches. That's the reason I went the way I did with the hard line. Please let us know how it works as I'm curious about the banjo direction and others solutions.
Last edited by Super B; Jun 26, 2014 at 06:30 PM.
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Yup m10x1 I just went to the local hydraulic shop and they had the coupler and a hard line pre-made. I just had to bend it into the s-shape like you see and then make a bracket out of some 3/4 inch x 3/16 flat bar to hold everything real tight. Can't be too careful with brake mods others safety depend on your handy work not to mention yourself. As far as the flex hose and banjo fitting I have concerns your heading down a bad path. The reason why i say that is because when the spindle goes to full lock for a right hand turn. The drivers side not only has a really tight clearance for any line coming out of the caliper but also puts the flex line in a very tight radius. I'm not an expert, so I asked the guys at the hydraulic shop who are and how tight you can repetitively bend a braided Teflon brake line. He said he would not make a radius of more a 90 degrees in 2 inches. That's the reason I went the way I did with the hard line. Please let us know how it works as I'm curious about the banjo direction and others solutions.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-brake-lines-Porsche-1974-1975-1976-1977-1978-1979-1980-1981-1982-1983-1994-/390871944095?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b01c88b9f&vxp=mtr
Thread Starter
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From: Oregon
'97 c36
Ohh sorry I thought you were talking about like a braided brake line with a banjo fitting on the end. No what you have in the picture is pretty much what I used. The hydraulic shop had them in 8 inch lengths with two male fittings for 9 dollars each.. The double female connector was 10 dollars each.
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Ohh sorry I thought you were talking about like a braided brake line with a banjo fitting on the end. No what you have in the picture is pretty much what I used. The hydraulic shop had them in 8 inch lengths with two male fittings for 9 dollars each.. The double female connector was 10 dollars each.
i have braided brakelines from Goodridge fitted on my car
as i also have the brand new still in box 4 piston C55 calipers, i was thinking of doing the best fitting with these hose adapters
# What prefferable length should i get for hose adapters, to avoid stress on hose adaptors on full lock turn?
Do you recommend the U shaped bending hoses from all 3 Ebay links which Zayed linked?
# The correct hose adapters comes with male connector on one end and the female connector the other end?
Or is it male/male connector I should buy?
I red this sellers feedback, he had some errors in shipment.
I'm worried if he fookks up the order sending me wrong stuff?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-brake-lines-Porsche-1974-1975-1976-1977-1978-1979-1980-1981-1982-1983-1994-/390871944095?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b01c88b9f&vxp=mtr
Thanks
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Jun 27, 2014 at 04:28 AM.
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SuperB had his W203 AMG pistons side brackets relocated and the thread connector might have switched place or something?
with extended adaptor hoses added onto the brakelines they will have some more slack when you turn you steering wheel into full lock
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Wish I would have touched bases with some one who has done this swap before prior to just diving into it. But no worries it's how you learn right? As far as the brakes I didn't like having the bleed screw on bottom. Sooo... Since the paint was pretty rough from falling out of the box and getting hammered in shipping (I bought these on eBay, showed up with the bleeder screw broken and all the bubble wrap mangled) I just broke down the calipers and switched the sides on the frames. Now the bleed screw is where is should be and the pistons are in the right positions. However the brake line inlet points down so I'm still going to need a set of lines. I found a shop in Portland that makes custom brake lines so I'm going to swing by there tomorrow and score up a set. Excuse the dirty calipers I need to give them both a wash now that ones pistons are clean and the others frame is dirty from the swap. 
watching your pictures.
when you mounted both calipers on the hubs with the bleeder valves up, did you only unbolt the outer piston FRAMES with the printed AMG logo and then switched left/right sides with the other piston plate?
# did you get the pistons in the correct place after you swapped sides?
# when you brake does smaller piston kick in first, then the larger one?
if this is what you did, now you have a correct functioning brake kit
# does left/right side AMG logos point at the correct direction now?
# how is your braking now?
do you löev it?
# only thing i need to get is the:
The correct M10X1 flexible bending hose adapters which comes with male connector on one end and the female connector the other end?
can you take 2 bjutifully close up pictures of your both front wheels where the brakes are shown and finally a nice side shot of your whole car, i wanna see your Brabus rims fitted to your car
hopefully i will do my upgrade soon
thanks man
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Jun 27, 2014 at 04:13 PM.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 549
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From: Oregon
'97 c36
EDIT- after re-reading your post I realized that I missed the part where you guys were talking about the length of the hose. Yes that is one of the two problems with the factory lines. The other is because of the angle if the brake line. Even if it was long enough the hose will most likely contact the lower shock bolt.
but with that said a custom hose that is longer with a banjo fitting at a 45 degree angle with a machined spot like pagz was saying might make the perfect set up.
Last edited by Super B; Jun 30, 2014 at 04:47 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Oregon
'97 c36
@ Super B watching your pictures. when you mounted both calipers on the hubs with the bleeder valves up, did you only unbolt the outer piston FRAMES with the printed AMG logo and then switched left/right sides with the other piston plate? # did you get the pistons in the correct place after you swapped sides? # when you brake does smaller piston kick in first, then the larger one? if this is what you did, now you have a correct functioning brake kit # does left/right side AMG logos point at the correct direction now? # how is your braking now? do you löev it? # only thing i need to get is the: The correct M10X1 flexible bending hose adapters which comes with male connector on one end and the female connector the other end? can you take 2 bjutifully close up pictures of your both front wheels where the brakes are shown and finally a nice side shot of your whole car, i wanna see your Brabus rims fitted to your car hopefully i will do my upgrade soon thanks man
#Yes, I mounted the calipers bleeder up and swapped the piston plates.
#Yes, swapping the piston plates this will get the pistons in the right order with the smallest one contacting the rotor first. However this changes the angle of the brake line port to face down and results in the modification of the brake lines.
#Yes, the AMG logos look good.
#I'm not sure... I tore into the rear multi link and replaced all the arms and bushings. I also added an adjustable camber arm. The drivers side is already done. Hopefully this weekend I'll finish the passenger side and schedule a 4 wheel alignment. I had to wait for the specialty tool for pressing out the lower control arm bushing to arrive. It was shipped in the mail so it set me back some time and I haven't gotten to try out the brakes yet.
#Yes, if you can get a flex pipe made that way. The only flex pipes I could get had male fittings on both sides so I had to get a coupler to join the brake line to the flex pipe. Like this...
Last edited by Super B; Jun 28, 2014 at 10:52 AM.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Oregon
'97 c36
I will say this though.. If your ok with deleting your brake lining sensor, not having the rotor retained to the hub and running the calipers with the wrong piston order yes this will "bolt on" provided your wheels clear
but if you plan on doing it right you need to do a little machining, pipe bending and painting.
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Wow lot of questions there. I'll take them one by one.
#Yes, I mounted the calipers bleeder up and swapped the piston plates.
#Yes, swapping the piston plates this will get the pistons in the right order with the smallest one contacting the rotor first. However this changes the angle of the brake line port to face down and results in the modification of the brake lines.
#Yes, the AMG logos look good.
#I'm not sure... I tore into the rear multi link and replaced all the arms and bushings. I also added an adjustable camber arm. The drivers side is already done. Hopefully this weekend I'll finish the passenger side and schedule a 4 wheel alignment. I had to wait for the specialty tool for pressing out the lower control arm bushing to arrive. It was shipped in the mail so it set me back some time and I haven't gotten to try out the brakes yet.
#Yes, if you can get a flex pipe made that way. The only flex pipes I could get had male fittings on both sides so I had to get a coupler to join the brake line to the flex pipe. Like this...
#Yes, I mounted the calipers bleeder up and swapped the piston plates.
#Yes, swapping the piston plates this will get the pistons in the right order with the smallest one contacting the rotor first. However this changes the angle of the brake line port to face down and results in the modification of the brake lines.
#Yes, the AMG logos look good.
#I'm not sure... I tore into the rear multi link and replaced all the arms and bushings. I also added an adjustable camber arm. The drivers side is already done. Hopefully this weekend I'll finish the passenger side and schedule a 4 wheel alignment. I had to wait for the specialty tool for pressing out the lower control arm bushing to arrive. It was shipped in the mail so it set me back some time and I haven't gotten to try out the brakes yet.
#Yes, if you can get a flex pipe made that way. The only flex pipes I could get had male fittings on both sides so I had to get a coupler to join the brake line to the flex pipe. Like this...
when you say?
"However this changes the angle of the brake line port to face down and results in the modification of the brake lines".
does it matter if the brakeline port faces down when the bleeder valve is pointing up?
with the flexible adapter hose u bend it and placed it to a suitable place next to the caliper
swapping piston plates is the best thing to do with these calipers
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From: Oregon
'97 c36
On a side note i also wonder if you could have a machine shop just drill and tap you a new bleeder valve port on the other side of the caliper frame and plug the original one. This would save the paint from being destroyed from disassembling and swapping the plates.
Last edited by Super B; Jun 28, 2014 at 11:58 AM.
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Correct, it doesn't matter. I was just giving the reason as to why you have to fabricate a flex line. On a side note i also wonder if you could have a machine shop just drill and tap you a new bleeder valve port on the other side of the caliper frame and plug the original one. This would save the paint from being destroyed from disassembling and swapping the plates.
On a side note i also wonder if you could have a machine shop just drill and tap you a new bleeder valve port on the other side of the caliper frame and plug the original one. This would save the paint from being destroyed from disassembling and swapping the plates.they can get repainted with silver paint spraycan.
where on the housing would it be good to drill the new bleeder port?
Thread Starter
Super Member
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From: Oregon
'97 c36
As far as drilling a bleeder screw port I was thinking in the exact same spot as the original just on the other side. Just a thought though, I think the correct modification would be just to buy a c63....... Solved.
Last edited by Super B; Jun 30, 2014 at 04:18 AM.
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From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
....and switch the brakes to the 43. That should be a major technical feat :-D
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spoke with my Mechanic Güru who fixes everything on my car.
I asked him about piston orientation
he said it's not a big issue if larger piston goes first and the smaller comes after when braking
he told me it will be no problems doing the 4 pot caliper modification and reversing piston plates is unecessary
I asked him about piston orientation
he said it's not a big issue if larger piston goes first and the smaller comes after when braking
he told me it will be no problems doing the 4 pot caliper modification and reversing piston plates is unecessary
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Jul 16, 2014 at 04:55 PM.
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From: Oregon
'97 c36
Try it out. If the pads wear funny or what ever you can always swap things around later. what's it truly going to hurt.
I know it's a not always a good way to think about things. But a whole team of engineers designed that breaking system, figuring out all the math for pressures and clamping force then had to spend all that money on tools to make the bores non symmetrical. Can't help to think there must be some gain for all the hassle.
But nothing risked nothing gained, save you a few hours of labor for sure.
what's it truly going to hurt. I know it's a not always a good way to think about things. But a whole team of engineers designed that breaking system, figuring out all the math for pressures and clamping force then had to spend all that money on tools to make the bores non symmetrical. Can't help to think there must be some gain for all the hassle.
But nothing risked nothing gained, save you a few hours of labor for sure.
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thanx bro, great pics
daem, i think i lost my rims last night
i guess they were shipped to oregon by night flight express
car looks great with brabus rims, their open design flashes the new calipers great.
when you have the time off, get a heat resistant silver spraycan, cover the AMG logo and then touch up the chipped areas with silverpaint, then cover the calipers in heat resistant glossy coat to prevent brakedust filthing down your calipers.
calipers will look like new
daem, i think i lost my rims last night
i guess they were shipped to oregon by night flight express
car looks great with brabus rims, their open design flashes the new calipers great.
when you have the time off, get a heat resistant silver spraycan, cover the AMG logo and then touch up the chipped areas with silverpaint, then cover the calipers in heat resistant glossy coat to prevent brakedust filthing down your calipers.
calipers will look like new
