C36 AMG, C43 AMG (W202) 1995 - 2000

vibration from 20-40 MPH, 1999 C43

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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 08:10 PM
  #26  
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1998 C43 AMG
Good bump, Hoon, I'm having similar issues. I'm getting a slight steering wheel vibration at highway speeds (65mph+), car "pulls" to one side and under har cornering I've gotten "shuddering" and the traction control light on the dash comes on (yellow triangle w/! symbol in the middle).
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 08:14 PM
  #27  
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if i slam on the brakes from 70-10 i get steering wheel shudder.. sh_t doesnt make me smile. Thats the one area where its a distraction in a bad way. Otherwise its more of a nuisance but not critical just a killjoy. I'm gonna start with following the script and just replace the wear parts.. Interestingly I was talking to 5 oh 3 the other day and he mentioned that perhaps the car is supposed to pull to the right... like it was engineered that way.

Last edited by hoontastic; Sep 28, 2011 at 08:16 PM.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 10:02 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by hoontastic
if i slam on the brakes from 70-10 i get steering wheel shudder.. sh_t doesnt make me smile. Thats the one area where its a distraction in a bad way. Otherwise its more of a nuisance but not critical just a killjoy. I'm gonna start with following the script and just replace the wear parts.. Interestingly I was talking to 5 oh 3 the other day and he mentioned that perhaps the car is supposed to pull to the right... like it was engineered that way.
MB's alignment specs will have your car pulling to the right, its like a dead man switch so if you loose consciousness while driving you will not veer into oncoming traffic
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 10:08 PM
  #29  
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Yeah well whatever they were thinking.. its the only vehicle i have had that did that. I have had about a dozen german cars and none of them did that. Do you think its easy to have it adjusted out of the equation? It would make it nicer for roadtrips if it just drove in a straight line.
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 04:51 AM
  #30  
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
I would recommend checking and changing the steering damper. Had a very vicious shutter in my old W124 when going over bumbs or braking. Very cheap and simple solution.
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 12:18 PM
  #31  
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well it likely needs replacing anyway and its cheap.. looking underneath it looks like an easy part to access. Any gotchas in replacing it?
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 01:33 PM
  #32  
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Ok should i buy a "Meyle" or "Stabilus/Boge" damper?
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 03:38 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by hoontastic
Ok should i buy a "Meyle" or "Stabilus/Boge" damper?
Meyle is what I bought, no complaints
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 04:10 AM
  #34  
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Got mine at the stealership and havn't the faintest idea what make it is. Never has an issue after the change.
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 05:28 AM
  #35  
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stabilus/böge is oem on MB
meyle is aftermarket stuff
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 11:59 PM
  #36  
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Wobble like that can be caused by a warped wheel. Its out of balance. Have it re-straightened and will be good as new. Swap out your spare and see if it magically disappears and find out which one is need of help (hope only one). Potholes and aluminum don't mix.

Aftermarket wheels? Just checking...if so, you have spacer inserts.

Last edited by Frank Castle; Oct 5, 2011 at 12:02 AM.
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 12:05 AM
  #37  
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I have oem wheels that i inherited with the car. Something of interest though with my car is the previous two owners ran the car with les schwap non staggered non hubcentric after market wheels. They were heavy and probably not good for the hub right? That said the oem 17's that are on it do have some curbage.. I thought oem monos were pretty dang tough. Not so?
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 12:14 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by hoontastic
I have oem wheels that i inherited with the car. Something of interest though with my car is the previous two owners ran the car with les schwap non staggered non hubcentric after market wheels. They were heavy and probably not good for the hub right? That said the oem 17's that are on it do have some curbage.. I thought oem monos were pretty dang tough. Not so?
I have the monos. Not tough enough for Maryland roads anyway. I had the wobble, got it fixed and had to have another hair line crack welded as it was causing flats. Swap your spare out to the front on either side. i think it was 50 for a weld and 100 for restraighten (or vice versa)

or if you get it right the first try just have a wobble spare and spend nothing
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 12:25 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by JohnnyRock
Good bump, Hoon, I'm having similar issues. I'm getting a slight steering wheel vibration at highway speeds (65mph+), car "pulls" to one side and under har cornering I've gotten "shuddering" and the traction control light on the dash comes on (yellow triangle w/! symbol in the middle).
Is yours lowered? Alignment issues are a little harder if so. I agree with 503 on his call there.

Last edited by Frank Castle; Oct 5, 2011 at 12:28 AM.
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 11:26 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by hoontastic
I have oem wheels that i inherited with the car. Something of interest though with my car is the previous two owners ran the car with les schwap non staggered non hubcentric after market wheels. They were heavy and probably not good for the hub right? That said the oem 17's that are on it do have some curbage.. I thought oem monos were pretty dang tough. Not so?
Did this fix your problem? Was it the wheel?
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Old Oct 21, 2011 | 03:59 PM
  #41  
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2000 C230 Kompressor Sport
Originally Posted by hoontastic
Sorry to dust this thread off... but my question is kinda on topic so..

When I am driving about 40ish my car exhibits a vibration in the steering wheel. It feels like one of the front wheels is wobbling. Also if I brake hard from a good clip i will feel alot more shaking of the steering wheel. Its not to the point of feeling unsafe but it does not seem right.

I am running oem 17 monos on new tires. My front rotors and pads are new. All the suspension up front is original (car is at 103k). I believe the wobble/shake may start at lower speeds but it really isnt very noticeable until i get going more. I believe the indy that looked at my ac compressor mentioned a balljoint looking bad. Could it be the hub itself? A forum member i talked to about this didnt think the wheel could be bent.

I would love to hear y'all fire off some ideas for me. thanks!
I had a similar experience with my car and brought the car to Downtown LA Mercedes Benz dealer and gave me a printout of what needs to be done. They said I need to change my ball joints because it had excessive freeplay and I need to change the Front Flex Disc because it was cracking. I replaced those and it went fine. Hope this helps.

Last edited by Jovsky; Oct 21, 2011 at 04:01 PM.
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Old Oct 21, 2011 | 04:02 PM
  #42  
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yeah my driver side ball joint looks like it needs some attention
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 10:01 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Jovsky
I had a similar experience with my car and brought the car to Downtown LA Mercedes Benz dealer and gave me a printout of what needs to be done. They said I need to change my ball joints because it had excessive freeplay and I need to change the Front Flex Disc because it was cracking. I replaced those and it went fine. Hope this helps.
What is the front flex disc? What does it do? Got as pic or part #?
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 02:27 AM
  #44  
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Mercedes doesn't use u-joints. The use a rubber and metal part called a flex disk at each end of the drive shaft.
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 03:42 AM
  #45  
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i found this johnny
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 10:16 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by JohnnyRock
What is the front flex disc? What does it do? Got as pic or part #?
Originally Posted by hoontastic
Yup! Those are the ones. And I find it's cheaper at AutohausAZ. Thanks Hoontastic for the link. Are the parts bought from AutohausAZ reliable? I haven't bought from them yet. Thanks!
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 06:15 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by MarcusF
Mercedes doesn't use u-joints. The use a rubber and metal part called a flex disk at each end of the drive shaft.


Thanks guys. Hoon, from the parts list you showed, BMW calls that a, "guibo"! (seriously)

Jovsky, I've used autohausaz for the past several years for BMW parts. They have great service and prices. They're parts are legit. BTW, I think Meyle would be more than a proper OEM replacement to save a couple of quid.

Last edited by JohnnyRock; Oct 23, 2011 at 06:18 PM.
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 06:17 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by hoontastic
yeah my driver side ball joint looks like it needs some attention
Agree 100% with you. My ball joint loves proper attention!
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 07:27 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Jovsky
Yup! Those are the ones. And I find it's cheaper at AutohausAZ. Thanks Hoontastic for the link. Are the parts bought from AutohausAZ reliable? I haven't bought from them yet. Thanks!
I get the majority of my parts from AutohausAz.com, they are reliable and great shipping too!
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 11:09 PM
  #50  
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I'm a sucker for the free shipping.
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