Yeah correct, E55K & E63 comes with 1 piece,,

only E63 got AMG P31 package(as optional), with 6-pot calipers, instead of 8-pot calipers in all 55K families..

ZAYED,,

 

All,
just an update the racing brake rotors do not properly fit the C43.
I installed them last week, the rotors are made for brembo sytle calipers and pads which are typically longer and thinner (6 piston calipers) vs ours which are shorter and fatter (4 piston), the rotor surface is about 10mm less than our stock calipers though its the same overall diameter, so the bottom of the pad overhangs the rotor. if you grind your pad down to fit it would be ok though.

also the offset is incorrect and the rotor will not sit centered in the caliper, it rubs on the outside edge of the caliper with zero clearance and has about 5mm clearance on the inside of the caliper. racing brake was willing to adjust the hub to correct the offiset issue but i did not want to do this and the pad modification considering i was under the assumption it was a straight swap.

I wished RB would have known this up front but to thier credit they were very helpful when i called to discuss the issue and are giving me a full refund and paid for return shipping of the rotors, so I cant complain too much, they made it right in the end.

I re-ordered the good old OEM rotors and will be putting them on soon.

 

That's strange.!, definitely something wrong, RB usually provides correct Rotors, did you try to contact Warren or Adam, they are helpFUL..

ZAYED,,

 

Thanks for the update, I was going to order these too.. You saved me the trouble of finding out myself.

 

stick with genuine stuff!

 

yes they were helpful. they said they could machine or fix the offset for me, but that still left me with having to modify my pads, which i didnt want to do. But to be fair they didnt know this until after i called and let them know ...but now we all know :-).
which isnt crazy since they are a small company and im sure they probably haven't sold to many C43 owners.

they sent a UPS pickup for me so i just boxed them back up and left them on the porch, it was easy. i will verify that my refund went through when i have verification, though it should as they were aware that i had the parts on and used them for 100 miles or so and they gave me no trouble when i said id prefer a refund over doing the modifications since i wasnt aware they were needed when i purchased.

car is on jackstands now with no wheels and no rotors
shold be getting the OEM replacements today or tomorrow and will be back to 100% power!

FYI rotors are so easy to swap , the pads are a pain though. if your doing your own rotors and pads and are not all that mechanically inclined, like me, the pads are 75% of the work.
also the rear rotors, as many have said, seem to seize up on the hub, had to beat them off with a mallet for about 5 mins each with full strength slams will rotating them to get them off . front rotors came right off once you take off the small hex bolt.

 

I see,

did you get stock Rotors..?

ZAYED,,

 

yes. they should be fine, they are constructed really well as most of us know, id much rather have the oem 2 piece construction than the one piece drilled ones from the w203. my heat issues werent gonna be solved with cross drilling, i needed pads with higher operating temp range anyways.

the racing brake were the only ones that i thought might have been an advantage over stock that werent crazy priced like the disc italia ones or full brembo kit.

 

IMO; stock non-drilled two piece Rotors NOT worth that costly, while you can get alternative OEM drilled Rotors with almost half price & always available even in {pharmacies}..!!

i think EBC pads is great for heat & hard track..

ZAYED,,

 

With the rear rotors it is helpful to back off the parking brake shoe adjustment before trying to remove the rotors. Also, it is good practice to adjust the parking brake shoes after installing the new rotors.

Finally, apply a thin coat of never seize paste to the hub where the hole in the rotor fits. I helps with subsequent rotor removal.

 

i see your point but i think you are giving too much value to the other merdeds cross drilled rotors. they are primarily a cosmetic feature on the C230 rotors or whatever car they are from, ESPECIALLY if you are talking just for street use. they will not make your car stop any better than the stock rotors IMO. if they were 2 peice construction i would agree. this is why i wanted to try racing brake.

and from the info below id be willing to bet that after repeated hard stops when heat builds up they will perform worse than the stock rotors if both used the same pads, but thats just my speculation.

here is the reasoning behind the 2 piece rotor:
* Lighter rotor (12-16% weight reduction varied with the size and design) than original one-piece rotor – meaning lower spinning weight.
* Cooler disc - due to higher heat dissipation rate of aluminum hat as compared to cast iron
* True full floating design (unlike others out in the marketplace) allows the disc to expand and contract freely without stressing the hat. This helps prevent the disc from warping or cracking.

the cross drilling does provide some cooling advantages (slotted is better for expelling brake dust). but for battling heat cross drilling will do you no good if your pad is only intended to operate up to 700-800 degrees F and you get hotter that that, which usually never happens on the street to be fair.

this is why i went with a race pad that can operate up to 1200 degrees F.
Basically adding holes to a 1 piece rotor will not cool it enough to overcome the low operating temp of street pads after repeated hard stops.
there is even research suggesting that the loss of surface area from cross drilling is a net loss compared to the small gain of minimal cooling they provide over traditional fins.
EBC yellow stuff are pretty good for still a street rype pad, i think they had the best temp range of up to 900 degrees for a "street" pad. my hawk HPS i think operated up to 800degrees and it wasnt enough, after 3-5 hard laps at the track they faded big time

also just going to a cross drilled rotor i dont think will make any real difference with the same 4 piston caliper setup either. If you went 6 piston caliper with the drilled rotors it would make a difference, but again id be willing to bet that its the 6 pistons making much more difference than just the drilling of the rotors.

again, there are lots of variables in braking but i think the stock 2 piece floating rotors are better than the slightly smaller one piece drilled ones from other Mercedes models, but they arent cheap. if you just want to save $200 and look cooler then yea drilled is a good choice, but if you want to try and stop your car shorter distance with less fade then i dont think you will outstop my current setup with the OEM rotors and race pads

keep in mind my whole point here was for track use, completely different than street use.

when everyone talks about the "over-engineering" of Mercedes back in the day these rotors are exactly the kind of thing they are talking about, superior construction.
when people talk about the 2000's models being much cheaper and not built as well the one piece drilled rotors are a good example... they are cheaper but they look 'cooler' so people like that.

 

Good write-up,

we have to separate between the guys who needs normal daily drive & track/racing,

i'm only refers to the normal daily drive guys like me, but racing purpose is whole differ thing,

if you look to Brembo brakes, you will notice that they provides differ BBK for:-

-(normal daily drive & street racing & track & heavy track, every kit got a differ profiles for each purpose)-..!!

ZAYED,,

 

Yea I really thought about getting a full brembo kit but just too expensive for me right now. I'm thinking the race pads will really help. I will do 3-4 track days this summer to find out!

 

EBC got "Bluestuff" Intermediate track pads, they are great..

http://ebcbrakes.com/product/ebc-disc-pads-for-racing/

ZAYED,,

 

Can not understand why my 55 has both rotors for the driver side. Vanes are going the wrong way on the passenger side...and they are original!! For the life of me I can not find a left and right side rotor set...just two driver side from the pictures and part number I come across...230-421-07-12.

 

Yeah, most of MB models got the same L/R Rotors cooling direction, including your 55K's..!

ZAYED,,

 

I don't understand what M-B was thinking on those models. It is just stupid. Anyone who knows anything about pump theory is left scratching their head - after all, vented rotors are an air pump. Try running a high efficiency pump (such as a boiler feed pump) backwards and see how it works.

It appears that they corrected this backwards step with the models/option packages that have two piece rotors/hubs.

 

The real reason is for cost saving, one mold is used for both left and right instead two "correct" molds.

GM Corvette Z06 uses the same directional rotor for both left and right.

Racingbrake uses the same disc which can be assembled as left or right by moving the hat to opposite side of rotor mounting tabs, we call it "Uni-Directional' rotors vs. competitors' two piece rotor which the "Left" and "Right" are different.

"Dziner82' is kind enough to send us his used OE rotors so we can check into replacing a more proper rotor ring for this application, the hat offset shall also be rectified.

So hopefully RB two piece light weight rotors shall soon be made available.

 

I did receive my refund from racing brake and they sent a UPS pickup for my old OEM rotors, hopefully they can get a application that can fit our stock pad dimensions.

Im pretty sure the offset will be an easy fix.
I purchased OE rotors to put on the car for now.

 

RB will do it perfectly, as usual..

ZAYED,,

 

Replacing the OE calipers can make your overall brake performance more efficient and more choice on brake pads, plus easy pad replacement.

Her is different brake pads height we used in our brake kits:

330mm rotor kit: 50-55mm
350mm rotor kit: 55-60mm
380mm rotor kit: 60-65mm
390mm+ rotor kit: 65-78mm

So being OE rotor is only 330mm the OE pad is a little over killed.

Here is what we offered for MB for now and will add more.

http://www.racingbrake.com/category-s/7136.htm

ML 63 AMG 390x36/390x30 brake kit installation introduction:
https://mbworld.org/forums/ml55-amg-...ml-series.html

Installation review:

2010 ML63 Racingbrake 6 piston BBK upgrade