pretty bad shake in drive
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
pretty bad shake in drive
This is on my 2000 c280. Iill ask here and I hope its ok because I know there are some gurus here.
Changed sparkplugs and they were terrible. One wire was completely unplugged so I swapped it. Checked all wires and coils and they should be good.
Unfortunately that didnt fix the issue.
The car is fine when cold but as soon as it warms up(two minutes into driving) the car shakes pretty bad while at a stop and in drive.
Shifting into neutral is smooth. Shifting back into drive makes the rpm drop to almost 5 and the car starts shaking. As soon as I start driving the rpm goes up of course and the car is fine.
So you can imagine that I shift in and out of neutral every time Im at a stop.
I also cleaned my airflow and tried running the car without it. Doesnt seem to make any difference.
Any ideas?
Changed sparkplugs and they were terrible. One wire was completely unplugged so I swapped it. Checked all wires and coils and they should be good.
Unfortunately that didnt fix the issue.
The car is fine when cold but as soon as it warms up(two minutes into driving) the car shakes pretty bad while at a stop and in drive.
Shifting into neutral is smooth. Shifting back into drive makes the rpm drop to almost 5 and the car starts shaking. As soon as I start driving the rpm goes up of course and the car is fine.
So you can imagine that I shift in and out of neutral every time Im at a stop.
I also cleaned my airflow and tried running the car without it. Doesnt seem to make any difference.
Any ideas?
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From: A.D., U.A.E
2000 (W202 C200) & 2000 (W202 C55)
Did you diagnose the car..?, if so, any codes..??
did you check if there is any air leaks around the MAF..???, and did you check all breather hoses..????
,,ZAYED,,
did you check if there is any air leaks around the MAF..???, and did you check all breather hoses..????
,,ZAYED,,
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From: Los Angeles, CA
w202
Common issue: motor mounts.
The giveaway is the fact that when you have the engine running and in neutral, it is smooth. If you'd have a misfire or bad MAF, the engine would run rough no matter the gear is in.
The giveaway is the fact that when you have the engine running and in neutral, it is smooth. If you'd have a misfire or bad MAF, the engine would run rough no matter the gear is in.
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si kupio jos jedna limonada s ukus w202?
valjda si bio mnogu zedan za sok od limona
sorry I couldn't help it
seriously, could you have a vaccum leak somewhere cracked rubber hoses?
look around with a flashlight
valjda si bio mnogu zedan za sok od limona
sorry I couldn't help it
seriously, could you have a vaccum leak somewhere cracked rubber hoses?
look around with a flashlight
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Aug 24, 2016 at 02:05 PM.
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98 C43, 15 Alfa 4C LE, 18 Tesla Model 3 DM Perf, 08 Duc S1000, 02 Duc 998, 98 Duc 748, 01 Miata
Agreed, motor mounts. Have a buddy sit in the car and shift into neutral and drive while you have the hood popped. See the shaking? In neutral, the engine has no external load and isn't putting anything beyond its own weight on the engine mounts. Once you put it in drive, it gets loaded through the torque converter and the engine compresses the bad engine mount and you get that vibration transmitted through the vehicle.
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
I replaced one of the tiny hoses in the back by the throttle body but that didnt help. The reso ofem look fine :/
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
Agreed, motor mounts. Have a buddy sit in the car and shift into neutral and drive while you have the hood popped. See the shaking? In neutral, the engine has no external load and isn't putting anything beyond its own weight on the engine mounts. Once you put it in drive, it gets loaded through the torque converter and the engine compresses the bad engine mount and you get that vibration transmitted through the vehicle.
I have a pair os spare c43 engine mounts. Would those work?
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From: A.D., U.A.E
2000 (W202 C200) & 2000 (W202 C55)
There're 4>>5 breather hoses attached to the valve covers & MAF elbow housing,
sometimes they causes vibration, when they got cracked..!,,
also, check any leaks around the MAF, or check if MAF set properly, not moved while you driving..!??!
,,ZAYED,,
sometimes they causes vibration, when they got cracked..!,,
also, check any leaks around the MAF, or check if MAF set properly, not moved while you driving..!??!
,,ZAYED,,
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98 C43, 15 Alfa 4C LE, 18 Tesla Model 3 DM Perf, 08 Duc S1000, 02 Duc 998, 98 Duc 748, 01 Miata
What year? M112 V6 or the older straight-6? If it is M112, they might work but would have to look at EPC to know for sure.
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98 C43, 15 Alfa 4C LE, 18 Tesla Model 3 DM Perf, 08 Duc S1000, 02 Duc 998, 98 Duc 748, 01 Miata
Bad engine mounts would send engine vibrations through the chassis when the car is in drive and they would be especially bad when sitting still with the brakes applied, like at a traffic light. It may be that you have bad engine mounts and that is amplifying another problem that you have.
RPM's would only drop in the sense that you shifted from neutral to drive. I can't think of any reason that engine mounts would cause a drop in RPM beyond that. Any kind of vacuum leak, TPS, MAF, etc should throw a code and turn on the CEL. If it can tell that your gas cap isn't screwed on all the way, it should pick up pretty quickly on stuff like that.
RPM's would only drop in the sense that you shifted from neutral to drive. I can't think of any reason that engine mounts would cause a drop in RPM beyond that. Any kind of vacuum leak, TPS, MAF, etc should throw a code and turn on the CEL. If it can tell that your gas cap isn't screwed on all the way, it should pick up pretty quickly on stuff like that.
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
Ok thanks for all your input everyone.
Ill figure out if the mounts are the same.
Heres a pic of rpms while in D at a stop. If they were slightly higher the vibration would go away seems like
Ill figure out if the mounts are the same.
Heres a pic of rpms while in D at a stop. If they were slightly higher the vibration would go away seems like
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From: Henrico, Virginia
2014 ML350 4Matic
Had the same issue with our old 2000 C280. Chased everything, wires, coils, vac leaks, breather hoses, etc. because the mounts only had 60K on them. In the end it was the mounts.
The RPM you show looks correct. 5-600 is normal in D.
The RPM you show looks correct. 5-600 is normal in D.
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
Pic showed up normal on my phone.....weird :/
Thanks for input vtw. I hope the heat comes down so I can tackle this soon. Feel free to post thtorials on how to seap those mounts out if you want
Thanks for input vtw. I hope the heat comes down so I can tackle this soon. Feel free to post thtorials on how to seap those mounts out if you want
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From: Henrico, Virginia
2014 ML350 4Matic
I've done them on both our 2000 C280 and my son's 1999 C43. The C43 was easy. The C280 - not so much. The passenger side goes fairly easy. The upper bolt is a pain, but if you are a decent wrench you'll figure it out. The driver's side on the C280 is really tough. On the C43 I remove the mount on the driver's side going forward and down behind the A/C Compressor. The C280 A/C Compressor is further aft in the car, closer to the crossmember. The mount can't go that way. I had to remove the transmission cooling line from the bell housing and extract the mount to the rear.
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98 C43, 15 Alfa 4C LE, 18 Tesla Model 3 DM Perf, 08 Duc S1000, 02 Duc 998, 98 Duc 748, 01 Miata
Marcus to the rescue. I followed his site and it was helpful. That being said, I couldn't get a torque wrench on the top side, so that was best guess. Make sure to use some high temp loctite.
http://www.fitzhughmedia.com/MBF/motormounts.html
http://www.fitzhughmedia.com/MBF/motormounts.html
Thread Starter
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
I've done them on both our 2000 C280 and my son's 1999 C43. The C43 was easy. The C280 - not so much. The passenger side goes fairly easy. The upper bolt is a pain, but if you are a decent wrench you'll figure it out. The driver's side on the C280 is really tough. On the C43 I remove the mount on the driver's side going forward and down behind the A/C Compressor. The C280 A/C Compressor is further aft in the car, closer to the crossmember. The mount can't go that way. I had to remove the transmission cooling line from the bell housing and extract the mount to the rear.
Thanks for your input. You could probably save me some research since yove done both cars. Are the mounts the same on both the m112 and m113?
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
Marcus to the rescue. I followed his site and it was helpful. That being said, I couldn't get a torque wrench on the top side, so that was best guess. Make sure to use some high temp loctite.
http://www.fitzhughmedia.com/MBF/motormounts.html
http://www.fitzhughmedia.com/MBF/motormounts.html
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From: Henrico, Virginia
2014 ML350 4Matic
I don't think the C43 and C280 mounts are there same. C43 mounts are P/N 202 240 29 17. C280 mounts were P/N 202 240 34 14 and have subbed over to P/N 203 240 12 17. M-B would not have different numbers if the mounts were the same.
