No testing here, the vehicle is checked prior to being sold, or if found to be defective whilst on a road.

I dont know if consumption is the same or not, i get about 400klms to a tank of 98RON, but all 5-10 minute drives usually.

I am going for a long drive at the end of the week so will know what i get on highway then, was about 8.5-9ltrs/100klms before.

 

I replaced my O2s yesterday. Factory originals were still in there.

 

that's great you not having annual vehicle inspections!
you save money on this!

400km's on full tank 62L must be mixed driving with some heavy foot driving.
that's a bit of a low total distance the 400km's on a full tank drive?
maybe it's with the new E55 engine you get 400km's?

I did a test once and I got approx 520km's on mixed driving.

these o2 sensors are supposed to last approx 100.000 miles = 160.000kms
they MAY/WILL/CAN break before that mileage.
one of my 2x o2 sensors was busted when I bought my car without knowing it as I don't have the CEL led in cluster on eüropean C43's.
hence the ruff and violent upshift gear changes between 1st and 2nd in D-mode when doing fast runs from stand still

 

We pay almost $1,100 in anual registration fees, so paying more would be a joke.

No idea what you mean with turning air con on and off, why? If its hot, i turn it on.

400klms to a tank is about 50ltrs of fuel, i dont let it run that low that its empty. I drive quick when the road permits, and that economy isnt too bad. Its not mixed driving, its all city and short trips. I used to drive 120klms each way to and from work, and was getting around 650klms from about 50ltrs of fuel.

I know a fair bit about engine management systems, i spent 11 years working on Corvettes, including tuning them with ECU flashing.

The original O2s had done 163,700klms. The 160,000klm life is very subjective, you cant put an exact klm life on such parts. Replacing them does not seem to have made any difference to the way the engine runs. I am replacing almost everything, so far nothing has been faulty ( although i know 5 injectors are leaking and need replacing, so im doing all 8 ) All other sensors were original until recently, but MAF was replaced at about 112,000klms, and it was faulty.

So far, i have recently replaced the following:
• Cam sensor
• Crank sensor
• Tensioner pulley
• Idler pulley
• all little rubber hoses
• coolant temp sensor
• spark plugs
• rocker cover seals
• O2 sensors
• MAF
• timing chain tensioner
• fuel filter
• fuel level senders
• full set of K-MAC poly bushes
• lower ball joints
• steering linkage assembly
• shock absorbers
• AC blower controller
• AC blower motor

Still to do ( parts either here or on their way )
• pitman arm bushing
• plug leads
• steering damper
• front and rear tail shaft couplers
• fuel pump
• injectors
• seals on the intake elbow
• Wavetrac LSD

And whatever else i forgot to add, there is bound to be more.

Australian delivery cars are identical specs to Euro cars. There is no check engine light, that was only on US models.

 

my o2 sensor was busted at 60.000km's without knowing it as I don't have the CEL.
when I found out and replaced the o2 sensor I had a different much better performing car

 

Cant say ive ever looked at the fuel dropping or ever seen it move that much.

This is Australia, it was 42°c here during the day today. Engine wont even take 5 minutes to be warmed up in this weather.

 

i live in cold climate, we have worse weather conditions for cold starts.
where i'm at fuel needle drops fast on cold starts in summer

many people have block/engine heaters for oil or cooling to faster heat up the engine in winter

even in summer a cold start is considered a wear n tear issue on every engine start

 

My HEVAC is on Auto position permanently. I have tried the on/off A/C trick at start-up but have never noticed in difference in fuel consumption.

Average consumption over 81K km is 10.64lt per 100km so that's decent going. My old C240 with M112 engine was just 1lt less in average. Driving with a light foot I can get around 580km per tank.

 

on cold starts when i had my ecc ON I watched my gas needle drop fast.
needle fell one notch every time on cold starts.

fuel consumption is richer when engine is cold below work temp.
V8 must slurpie even more than a 4 banger on start up

 

Then your fuel senders need replacing. 1 notch is a quarter of a tank.

 

my needle works all the time, never had any issues with needle showing exact fuel level in tank.

i know that some w202 cars had issues with low quality fuel causing fuel sender to misbehave or needing to be replaced.

Btw
Did you do the engine swap yourself or did you take your car to a shop mechanics swapping engines?

For how many years did you drive your car with the 5.4L engine?

Did you experiance any reliability/performance issues after you did the engine swap during the time with the new engine running on C43 electronics?

 

No issue, apart from the leaking injectors.

I always maintain my cars to the highest standard, so ive never had a problem.

Bad fuel is not the cause of faulty fuel senders, they age like any part does.

 

i did a search on this w202 amg section long time ago for issues with fuel sender.
there has been people having problems with fuel senders from bad fuel

sometimes senders didn't read accurate or fuel needle was stuck in cluster not budging.
there has been different issues on random occassions

 

Horse s***. Where is the evidence to prove that? Until then its merely an unfortunate coincidence. Mine failed and ive never had bad fuel.

There is loads of mis-information on forums all over the world, and this one is no different.

Simply because it is said on a forum and people adopt it as a true and correct explaination, and hence, continue to repeat it, does not always make it fact. It just means theyre looking for an answer and any answer can seem quite plausable to the uneducated.

Until it can be backed up with hard fact based evidence, its nothing more than a speculation.

 

mine is still working.

i can't say what other people say was wrong or correct about their senders.
info i red on this forum was that some people complained about residue from bad fuel soiling the senders, therefore needle didn't show accurate fuel level.
if this was correct i don't know?

 

Mine had no residue, just didnt always work. Sometimes you could fill up and itd show empty, sometimes itd go to zero while driving, and sometimes you could stop the engine, restart and its working again.

Just a fact of life for consumable parts really.

 

random quality process on manufacturing parts is bad for business

 

Lasted 17 years, id hardly consider it an issue.

 

let's hope mine will still prosper for many years ahead

 

Never had an issue with senders in my w202s. Both have been accurate to around 1lt and I never ran out of fuel, even with the needle close to rock bottom on the yellow reserve reading.

 

No dramas with my 95 C180 either, but probably not the same senders.

 

I finished the actual swap a while ago, but I had to go back to school. The 202 is now at a shop having the finishing touches put back on (Just small things like the exhaust, bumper, and lights), and then my dad is going to drive it out to me.

Also, I picked up another project, a W126 560SEL with fuel issues. I clearly make fantastic financial decisions.

 

I replaced my injectors, fuel pump, and throttle pedal sensor today, seems to have slightly improved things a shade more.

Original fuel pump doesnt have a gauze in the inlet side, replacement does.

 

Whats is this throttle pedal sensor?

 

It's the part that the wire connector goes into.