Factory Code 776 (Wheel Arches)
#26
Chargers are brutal savages! with 426 HEMI or the lesser 440 engine.
when I mention waxoil, this is rustproofing your car with thick undercoating to prevent rust.
rustproof center also pumps in oil in all cavities from doors to doorsills and where it's needed.
they check a building diagram for each specific car so htey know where to apply the protection.
I have rust protected my whole car with Dinitrol wax oil, treatment cost me approx $450 USD
when I mention waxoil, this is rustproofing your car with thick undercoating to prevent rust.
rustproof center also pumps in oil in all cavities from doors to doorsills and where it's needed.
they check a building diagram for each specific car so htey know where to apply the protection.
I have rust protected my whole car with Dinitrol wax oil, treatment cost me approx $450 USD
#27
Super Member
Thread Starter
Chargers are brutal savages! with 426 HEMI or the lesser 440 engine.
when I mention waxoil, this is rustproofing your car with thick undercoating to prevent rust.
rustproof center also pumps in oil in all cavities from doors to doorsills and where it's needed.
they check a building diagram for each specific car so htey know where to apply the protection.
I have rust protected my whole car with Dinitrol wax oil, treatment cost me approx $450 USD
when I mention waxoil, this is rustproofing your car with thick undercoating to prevent rust.
rustproof center also pumps in oil in all cavities from doors to doorsills and where it's needed.
they check a building diagram for each specific car so htey know where to apply the protection.
I have rust protected my whole car with Dinitrol wax oil, treatment cost me approx $450 USD
#28
It's thick blackish undercoating for undercarriage.
it's a flexible wax oil which lasts for many years, mine is still not dry after maybe 11 years and approx 50000km's of drive.
MOT test center always compliments me for taking good care of my car.
for internal cavities in doors and doorsills they use penetrating wax oil
this protection treatment should be done when the car is brand new or still rust free.
if your car is rusted under it's better to first fix the rust problems then treat with thick undercoating seal.
you can get some info from this british company Dinitrol specialized in rustproofing
there must be something similar in Kanada?
https://www.dinitrol.co.uk
it's a flexible wax oil which lasts for many years, mine is still not dry after maybe 11 years and approx 50000km's of drive.
MOT test center always compliments me for taking good care of my car.
for internal cavities in doors and doorsills they use penetrating wax oil
this protection treatment should be done when the car is brand new or still rust free.
if your car is rusted under it's better to first fix the rust problems then treat with thick undercoating seal.
you can get some info from this british company Dinitrol specialized in rustproofing
there must be something similar in Kanada?
https://www.dinitrol.co.uk
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 03-15-2017 at 12:38 PM.
#29
Super Member
Thread Starter
It's thick blackish undercoating for undercarriage.
it's a flexible wax oil which lasts for many years, mine is still not dry after maybe 11 years and approx 50000km's of drive.
MOT test center always compliments me for taking good care of my car.
for internal cavities in doors and doorsills they use penetrating wax oil
this protection treatment should be done when the car is brand new or still rust free.
if your car is rusted under it's better to first fix the rust problems then treat with thick undercoating seal.
you can get some info from this british company Dinitrol specialized in rustproofing
there must be something similar in Kanada?
https://www.dinitrol.co.uk
it's a flexible wax oil which lasts for many years, mine is still not dry after maybe 11 years and approx 50000km's of drive.
MOT test center always compliments me for taking good care of my car.
for internal cavities in doors and doorsills they use penetrating wax oil
this protection treatment should be done when the car is brand new or still rust free.
if your car is rusted under it's better to first fix the rust problems then treat with thick undercoating seal.
you can get some info from this british company Dinitrol specialized in rustproofing
there must be something similar in Kanada?
https://www.dinitrol.co.uk
#30
the unrolled fender you bought who rolled it for you?
did flare from stock fender differ a lot compared to your AMG fender?
when you had new fender rolled, was it rolled exactly to specs like the original AMG fender?
do you notice any difference in flared or imperfections after you install the new fender to your car?
it would be interesting to know how much a full coatjob will cost in Kanada?
this job will have to include:
complete underbody with front and rear axles, 4x fenders, 4x doors, door sills, trunk and hood
did flare from stock fender differ a lot compared to your AMG fender?
when you had new fender rolled, was it rolled exactly to specs like the original AMG fender?
do you notice any difference in flared or imperfections after you install the new fender to your car?
it would be interesting to know how much a full coatjob will cost in Kanada?
this job will have to include:
complete underbody with front and rear axles, 4x fenders, 4x doors, door sills, trunk and hood
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 03-15-2017 at 03:14 PM.
#31
Super Member
Thread Starter
the unrolled fender you bought who rolled it for you?
did flare from stock fender differ a lot compared to your AMG fender?
when you had new fender rolled, was it rolled exactly to specs like the original AMG fender?
do you notice any difference in flared or imperfections after you install the new fender to your car?
it would be interesting to know how much a full coatjob will cost in Kanada?
this job will have to include:
complete underbody with front and rear axles, 4x fenders, 4x doors, door sills, trunk and hood
did flare from stock fender differ a lot compared to your AMG fender?
when you had new fender rolled, was it rolled exactly to specs like the original AMG fender?
do you notice any difference in flared or imperfections after you install the new fender to your car?
it would be interesting to know how much a full coatjob will cost in Kanada?
this job will have to include:
complete underbody with front and rear axles, 4x fenders, 4x doors, door sills, trunk and hood
#33
hey bud
as we can't get the rolled fenders from stealership anymore we have to be carefull avoiding head on collisions where the fenders might get crumpled
looking for parts in AZ is a smart thing getting rust free panels
as we can't get the rolled fenders from stealership anymore we have to be carefull avoiding head on collisions where the fenders might get crumpled
looking for parts in AZ is a smart thing getting rust free panels
#34
Super Member
Thread Starter
I agree with you on that. Worse yet, would be our AMG being written off due to a small fender bender due to the age of the W202. I keep every single receipt to prove my C43's value. I was in a harmless roundabout when some punk in the outside lane thought that he could keep going around without taking the first exit. I was exiting and he got my right front. I'm fortunate as there are no parts for C43's in Canada so the insurance company let me source all brand new genuine parts. I didn't find a genuine factory rolled fender until last summer so I bought it. I'm now removing an almost new W202 fender in obsidian black and selling it.
#35
you should be very grateful you have a great insurance company to deal with if or when something happens to your car.
I read in the newspaper that young people born in the 90's are the most dangerous drivers on the streets as they don't mind playing or texting with their cellphones while they are driving!
many of these young people are plain stupid not taking responsibility in traffic coz their minds are somewhere else.
truck drivers not paying attention in traffic, drunk drivers, drivers high on dope, suicidal types or youngsters playing with their phones these type of drivers are the really dangerous ones.
I read in the newspaper that young people born in the 90's are the most dangerous drivers on the streets as they don't mind playing or texting with their cellphones while they are driving!
many of these young people are plain stupid not taking responsibility in traffic coz their minds are somewhere else.
truck drivers not paying attention in traffic, drunk drivers, drivers high on dope, suicidal types or youngsters playing with their phones these type of drivers are the really dangerous ones.
#36
Super Member
Thread Starter
I think those stats are very accurate. Too many distractions nowadays as technology is slowly killing society. Taking responsibility for your actions is almost unheard of in today's world. Far too many want to take the easiest way out possible by either lying, cheating or pointing blame. I learned my lesson back in 1990 when I had my 1987 Grand National. I was dumb enough to street race a 1990 Mustang LX 5.0 when a drunk driver came out of nowhere and totalled my car. The race was over and I was decelerating when an old 70's Chrysler boat cut across six lanes. I swerved to hit him in the rear wheel and that was the end of my car. No abs or air bags in a Grand National back then and I'm fortunate that no one was killed or badly injured. The track is the only place I'll ever race now.
#37
MBWorld Fanatic!
That's too bad about the Grand National... What an awesome car. I'm always worried that the C43 is going to get hit in the rear because our brakes are so good. I have to constantly teach people lessons when they tailgate me. I have a few tricks I like to pull on them, one is the slow down and force them to try and overtake me followed with a roasting when they try to overtake me, which I think probably really scares them.
The second is the sudden brake in front of them, kind of scary for me because they can end up hitting me if I don't get out of the hole quick enough.
And the third, just pull to the right and let them pass. Probably the safest and usually what I do 80% of the time.
I just love when someone cuts me off, 60% of the time I pay the favor back with spades.
The second is the sudden brake in front of them, kind of scary for me because they can end up hitting me if I don't get out of the hole quick enough.
And the third, just pull to the right and let them pass. Probably the safest and usually what I do 80% of the time.
I just love when someone cuts me off, 60% of the time I pay the favor back with spades.
#38
Super Member
If you're going to run those, at least paint them body color for the love of God. They look way off as is.
I don't see them helping with rust issues. 98-00 202 is probably the most rusty Mercedes ever made. If you're going to drive it in salt, it will rust. Those things may even accelerate the process due to trapping salt and moisture in the seams.
I don't see them helping with rust issues. 98-00 202 is probably the most rusty Mercedes ever made. If you're going to drive it in salt, it will rust. Those things may even accelerate the process due to trapping salt and moisture in the seams.