Ball Joints
#1
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Ball Joints
I'm doing my ball joints. Probably going to order from FCP Euro.
have a bit of play in my passenger side so going to just do both. Any suggestions?
have a bit of play in my passenger side so going to just do both. Any suggestions?
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#8
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still have some vibration and now notice a bit of play left and right that wasnt there before, only had a bit of play up and down. change one thing and something else breaks? lol
have a 9am appointment at the alignment shop tomorrow, thinking tie rods, opinions?
if so i will do it myself lol i think they hate me there.
have a 9am appointment at the alignment shop tomorrow, thinking tie rods, opinions?
if so i will do it myself lol i think they hate me there.
#9
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was able to get under car and everything looks good (no play in drag joints and LCA bushings look like they are intact-not split or bulging). still had vibration @ 50MPH. wheels were checked for balance (wheels and tires [michelins] are brand new) and alignment done after replacing lower ball joints.
173k miles on the clock. also have passenger side front brake binding a bit. never replaced brake lines when i changed pads, so i will change those, bleed and also replace steering shock.
do you guys recommend myle or stabulis? there is about a $10 difference between them on FCP euro.
if that does not solve, i will start looking at upper control arms and bearings.
173k miles on the clock. also have passenger side front brake binding a bit. never replaced brake lines when i changed pads, so i will change those, bleed and also replace steering shock.
do you guys recommend myle or stabulis? there is about a $10 difference between them on FCP euro.
if that does not solve, i will start looking at upper control arms and bearings.
#10
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Did you check for bent wheels??
Not everyone knows how to balance wheels, you'd be surprised.
Id drive for a bit after having wheels balanced then go and have them re balanced. Theres more science to wheel balancing than one might think.
Watch this video, its more than the title says. Very informative
Not everyone knows how to balance wheels, you'd be surprised.
Id drive for a bit after having wheels balanced then go and have them re balanced. Theres more science to wheel balancing than one might think.
Watch this video, its more than the title says. Very informative
Last edited by PJmak; 06-14-2017 at 01:55 PM.
#11
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the wheels i bought are new. had tires mounted and balanced. drove for about 20 miles, took them back and had them rebalanced. 1 wheel was off by .5 oz. the shop uses road force balance so hoping the tech did it right.
great video though. i might head back for a rebalance after i put a bit more miles on the wheels and change out a few more components.
great video though. i might head back for a rebalance after i put a bit more miles on the wheels and change out a few more components.
Last edited by mickey13; 06-14-2017 at 02:02 PM.
#14
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its easy to take for granted that a problem (vibration) could reappear after a fix (ball joints) and the addition of another variable (spacers)
#15
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It's dumb to not use OEM in my opinion. If your wheels and tires are fine then it's likely your control arm bushings and don't overlook idler arm bushing.
And you have to take out any spacers and your aftermarket wheels need to be the right size hub and all that and proper lugs etc. See first sentence.
And you have to take out any spacers and your aftermarket wheels need to be the right size hub and all that and proper lugs etc. See first sentence.
#16
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#19
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Guess that's total I have them since 2 years and never a problem. Improves and gives a firmer pedal. Softish spongy pedel is a normal trait of our cars and ss lines improve greatly. Choose only high quality lines like Goodrich for exemple.
#20
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nice. maybe i'll give them a shot next time. probably an old article i read.
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#23
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replaced the steering damper and it reduced vibration a bit, but it is still there.
so far: new ball joints, new wheels, new tires, new steering damper.
in the morning i will pull off the front spacers and see if they are causing the issue.
im considering: idler arm bushing, LCA bushings, drag link, upper ball joints, possibly wheel bearings
ARRGHHH!!
so far: new ball joints, new wheels, new tires, new steering damper.
in the morning i will pull off the front spacers and see if they are causing the issue.
im considering: idler arm bushing, LCA bushings, drag link, upper ball joints, possibly wheel bearings
ARRGHHH!!
#24
Super Member
Imo the spacers will just exacerbate the issue. My guess is LCA bushings. I'd do the upper control arms too; they're easy to replace. Definitely do the idler arm bushing & complete tie rod assembly.. Then alignment. Try to get them all done at the same time. Just don't do it like me & get an alignment after every new part
#25
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ive got the lifetime alignment at firestone, its pretty decent, had 3 done this month alone lol.
but yeah
"LCA bushings. I'd do the upper control arms too; they're easy to replace. Definitely do the idler arm bushing & complete tie rod assembly"
would basically be the whole front suspension. im really starting to think it is the bearings though. ive got 172k on the clock and i think they are a 150k replacement item i think.
anyway, ive been watching some youtube videos and think i'll be able to diagnose it myself. one of the guys at the last shop i had it at said he thought it was my drivers side bearing. we went over the drag link and LCA bushings together. it all looks OK even though probably not a bad idea to change it anyway if i want a new car feel.
back in january the car really felt great, i'd say steering felt like a 2016 model. it is far from that smooth feeling now, so something has definitely given out. i guess im just going to keep replacing parts until im happy with it or everything has been replaced.
but yeah
"LCA bushings. I'd do the upper control arms too; they're easy to replace. Definitely do the idler arm bushing & complete tie rod assembly"
would basically be the whole front suspension. im really starting to think it is the bearings though. ive got 172k on the clock and i think they are a 150k replacement item i think.
anyway, ive been watching some youtube videos and think i'll be able to diagnose it myself. one of the guys at the last shop i had it at said he thought it was my drivers side bearing. we went over the drag link and LCA bushings together. it all looks OK even though probably not a bad idea to change it anyway if i want a new car feel.
back in january the car really felt great, i'd say steering felt like a 2016 model. it is far from that smooth feeling now, so something has definitely given out. i guess im just going to keep replacing parts until im happy with it or everything has been replaced.