What did you do to your C36/C43 AMG today?

I recommend buying any old m113 used intake manifold and opening it up for early experiments, so you don't ruin/disassemble your original AMG manifold. as far as i know they are identical except the AMG one is actually stamped AMG somewhere.
notice that's the top half of his intake manifold, so these stacks would be facing down, which is quite odd, but it's the only way this intake could do it. fwiw, this intake was quite revolutionary when it was new, with much better low end power and efficiency. even my 55 swapped C43 gets 24mpg on the highway.
but back to what this thread was meant for:
heading to my friend's wrecked C43 this weekend to begin scavenging parts off the poor soul. he said I can use whatever I want. I don't need much but i'm going to get what i can. I just wish I could get his entire rear subframe. if I had the money i'd buy the whole car because it's really fixable.




Tomorrow I'll be installing a new steering shock absorber. Some slight tremors in the wheel around 110-120kmh, but it could also be the worn out tyres.




The damper was totally shot and I clearly identified and confirmed the source of the oil spots (yellow and thin) on the ground. The damper was leaking
Also the resistance was as much as a unconnected bicycle air pump 
Here's a quick video of the old one and for those who may ask, no it doesn't have any manufacturers stamp anywhere on the damper. The new one is a Febi/Bilstein.
Tomorrow afternoon I'll be getting my new Michelin tyres in the latest PS4 type





The first surprise and a major one which could have caused some serious stuff, the two front tyres were worn down on the inside to the metallic structure. That is a potential blow out risk
so I'm very happy this was identified before anything happened. Guess you need to look closer when running a negative camber. I should have looked when I had the wheels off to pressure clean them the last time
, as I do this 3-4 times a season. It keeps the wheels fresh and reduces corroding brake dust build up.The rears had a nice even wear but as they were on the minimum bumps, nothing could be salvaged in extra life without risking trouble with the people in uniform
should I get pulled over.Anyway the new SP4's have a nice tread pattern and driving back home (+/-80km), I noticed immediately the ride is much softer, they run very quite and steering reaction is nice and sharp
I need to run them in a bit more before pressing harder. Also the technician recommended to use a 2.5bar pressure on all four tyres with these newer compounds. It is surprising as we all (?) are used to different pressures between front and rear.Finally, the small vibration I felt in the steering has totally gone now. Guess the new damper and tyres were the ideal solution.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
People were talking about removing the exhaust or moving the alternator and ac compressor for space but i didn't have to do any of that. The drivers side i pushed forward and it fell down in the open space there ad the passenger side came out just as easy.
I can rock the motor side to side now with the mounts on but there's almost no vibrations at all. Highly recommend new mounts for everyone. Both my old ones collapsed in and the trans mount was almost in two pieces as well.
I would think that some side-to-side movement using your hands would be good for comfort, but not-so-good for performance?

Also, trying to replace a cracked barrel and face for some Schmidt VN's I bought. Best replacement seems to be out of Germany, but I've never bought anything overseas before. What is the best way to pay for parts that need to be paid in Euros and shipped to the US?




always thought my steering wheel and horn buttons were extremely worn. turns out that they were just dirty and grimy... gross
after i cleaned the wheel, it all turned to a matte black and looks very very good, huge difference in the interior, wish i would have taken some before pictures.
there is a bit of wear on the left side but it really looks 100% better and sets the interior off in a nice way.
Also changed front brake pads, used the brand Hawk. My old pads where making noise at times. They where pretty worn so glad I changed them. Car feels tight and stops really good.




Also changed front brake pads, used the brand Hawk. My old pads where making noise at times. They where pretty worn so glad I changed them. Car feels tight and stops really good.
Those are a must and area easy and cheap

They often make a noticeable difference.
I have a pair of new front tires in the trunk, going to get those mounted today




i think the complete new unit is less work to install. seems very tough to get to the bottom screws opposed to the cooler with filter housing is im guessing a 15 minute job. looks like there is just a nut to remove the filter housing and cooler is only attached to hoses which can be plugged during change
also i had the seals on my oil cooler changed on the 4.3 before the swap at the dealer and even they screwed it up. in guessing those used units need sealant 100% of the time.




also i had the seals on my oil cooler changed on the 4.3 before the swap at the dealer and even they screwed it up. in guessing those used units need sealant 100% of the time.
Regarding the oil port, there are two types of rubber gaskets, so you need to get the correct one from the dealer. Some gasket sealer is imperative to reduce later oil leaks...





