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Got over to the auto parts store and the guy there was nice enough to run the codes for me. Any thoughts on these? Car runs just a bit rough, but not much really. These codes all came with descriptions but I've omitted them since it wasn't a SDS.
98 C43, 15 Alfa 4C LE, 18 Tesla Model 3 DM Perf, 08 Duc S1000, 02 Duc 998, 98 Duc 748, 01 Miata
Looks like secondary air injection system and O2 sensors. Easiest thing to do is look up those codes in Google related to a CLK430 or E430 (both far more common than a C43) and see what people have done to correct those. The O2 sensors seem pretty self explanatory but I haven't worked on our secondary air injection system, so I'm not personally familiar with the failure modes and which components might be at fault. P1453 references the secondary air injection relay, so that is where I would start since it is easy to test and easy to replace. Are you familiar with applying voltage to a relay and checking for open/close circuit? You need to know the schematic of that particular relay, which may either be molded onto the plastic relay housing or there may be a number on it that you can put into google and get the schematic. Apply voltage across the + and - terminal and then a.) listen for a click when the relay switches and b.) check for either open or close circuit based on whether it is a normally closed or normally open relay. This is generic instructions, so if you run into something specific, let us know and we can dive deeper. But definitely start with the relay because a bad relay means none of the rest of the system is going to work properly and that can cause a lot of the other downstream codes.
Appears to be normally open. Check that it is an open circuit across 30 and 87 before applying any voltage (ie Multimeter should read OC or infinite resistance [ohms]). Apply 12 volts across 85 and 86 and that should make 30 and 87 a closed circuit (ie Multimeter should read a very low resistance [~0.1 ohms or less]).
Thanks! I thought it might have something to do with the evap system but I see a second problem with the smog pump. I might have a spare relay around here. I do have a multi meter but I'm not very good with it, this might be a good time to practice. Since it looks like an evap and smog issue, I don't think it will lead to additional problems if I don't fix it immediately. I just had a 2 year inspection sticker issued last month!
I do need one of those tools to track shorts, I think it's like a tone generator.
Got over to the auto parts store and the guy there was nice enough to run the codes for me. Any thoughts on these? Car runs just a bit rough, but not much really. These codes all came with descriptions but I've omitted them since it wasn't a SDS.
P1453
P1420
P0446
P1400
P0155
P0135
P0141
P0161
Here's a list of the OBD codes for your info. Copy from MarcusF's site
i wanted to touch base on this in case anyone else has a similar issue.
so i did a bunch of stuff including changing the relay and swapping the smog pump for another i have in my parts bin, no huge investment there. but i havent been driving this car much so it sat a long time with the check engine light on. actually angered my wife, she wants me driving this car lol.
went back recently and started testing fuses with my light and found a 15 amp fuse had blown in that same compartment that i posted a picture of in this thread. in fact it was the fuse between the yellow and the red.
cleared the codes out and that was the end of my check engine light. that fuse will throw 9 codes. I know there are 8 above but there was another, I'll post if i ever find the sheet i wrote it down on.
Can anyone tell me why my OBD2 port does not connect to my scanner?
well I know my scanner wasn't working because I started or turned the ignition before plugging it in. I even returned my scanner lol. turns out it won't read the codes unless ignition of before plugging in. try to get your codes with the car completely off first. if nothing turn the key 1 click at a time checking each time but make sure you plug in before the key is in.
or do you mean the plug will not actually fit? the us models have two ports. one under the steering wheel and one under the hood. the hood one is a round plug not obd2. I believe the European models did not have obd2.
well I know my scanner wasn't working because I started or turned the ignition before plugging it in. I even returned my scanner lol. turns out it won't read the codes unless ignition of before plugging in. try to get your codes with the car completely off first. if nothing turn the key 1 click at a time checking each time but make sure you plug in before the key is in.
or do you mean the plug will not actually fit? the us models have two ports. one under the steering wheel and one under the hood. the hood one is a round plug not obd2. I believe the European models did not have obd2.
I haven’t tried that. But so far my problem is that my scanner will register better power from the car, but will not register that it is connected to the car.
01-10-2018, 12:09 PM
