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So my old girl stopped shifting on me.
I only have 1st and reverse gear.
I went ahead and installed a FCP Euro kit, so; new conductor plate, filter, circular harness plug + o-rings.
Same issue as before, even after leaving the battery unplugged during the install.
After reading I found some threads about the harness wicking atx fluid into the TCM and sure enough it was pooled up inside the connector housing.
The board looks fine but of course that doesn't mean anything.
What's my next step?
I blew out and cleaned the harness on the transmission side when I was installing the connector.
I'm going to dry this device off and the interior connector which hopefully will take care of it.
A couple questions if you don't mind:
Is there anything I can do with a multimeter to test the board?
If I replace the TCM, does it require programming or just plug-n-play?
I believe I've determined that yes, the code must be reset before the transmission with leave limp mode.
Now I'm trying to find a compatible device to perform the reset.
Can someone please let me know which device can do that?
I was looking at Foxwell and iCarsoft but their compatibility list doesn't mention much for the W202 chassis.
Any links to older threads or a specific diag tool would be much appreciated.
Thank you!
From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
You can read all about this issue, apart from the harness wicking which I didn't have in my transmission problems, in the following link together with some small upgrades I did at the same time: https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...intenance.html
You will need Star or a similar clone system to erase the code and unblock the transmission limp mode. I used Carsoft (see the links in the thread).
Got it, I really appreciate it!
So the reset has to be performed via the round port under the bonnet and I would need this device and this software?
That's quite a chunk of change, nearly $400 USD probably more with shipping.
I suppose I'll call around to see if my local import shop can reset it for me.
From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
Yeah, everything is talked to and from the vehicle via the round multi pin plug. There are no OBD ports on these older vehicles. You would just need the device (multiplexer) https://www.carsoft.com/mb-sb/carsof...s-v12-sys.html which plugs into a laptop and connects to the multi pin plug as it also contains the software which you have to download on your laptop or PC. You can scan the vehicle for codes, delete them and plenty of other things, so if you are in your own maintenance work of the C43, IMO it's worth it, and you can perhaps help others owners who don't have it....
Yeah, everything is talked to and from the vehicle via the round multi pin plug. There are no OBD ports on these older vehicles. You would just need the device (multiplexer) https://www.carsoft.com/mb-sb/carsof...s-v12-sys.html which plugs into a laptop and connects to the multi pin plug as it also contains the software which you have to download on your laptop or PC. You can scan the vehicle for codes, delete them and plenty of other things, so if you are in your own maintenance work of the C43, IMO it's worth it, and you can perhaps help others owners who don't have it....
Right on. I finally got around to clearing the code today.
My buddy and I have pretty crazy schedules and after a few delays with parts we got it going!
He has a Snap-On Solus so I sourced the 38-pin, MB-1 cable + S-20 Personality key off eBay.
Once that arrived it was then we noticed we needed a specific 26-pin cable to attach the MB-1 to the Solus.
Anyways, once we had all the diag cables we hooked it up, cleared the codes, started her up and she shifts better than ever.
Altogether it was still cheaper than having the code reset at a local import shop and now I own the necessary diag cables.
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