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DIY: C43 Oil Change Step by Step Tutorial

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Old Jan 16, 2018 | 04:27 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by kms2018c43
Nice DIY write up Star4life!
You mentioned you did your first oil change at 4k, as this is was your break-in. What will be your normal intervals for oil change?
every 10k miles as specd in manual. if i track i may change sooner. but under normal driving every 10k. so i will have a a service done at 10k miles then 20k etc.
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 04:27 PM
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Thank you for the great step by step. I only have 2100 miles on my 2018, but its been 11 months and extremely hot this summer. And its been worked hard since I had AMR load a tune.
First power adder AMG and want to take care of those high spooling turbos! I did a search here but did not find how to do the reset that the oil has been changed?
Second is does doing the work yourself void the warranty? I always do my changes to the other cars but have tended to take the high end Mercs to the dealer. This is so easy with a Mity Vac seems
like throwing money away not to do it yourself.
Sincerely,
Doug - DougsC43
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 09:28 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by DougsC43
Thank you for the great step by step. I only have 2100 miles on my 2018, but its been 11 months and extremely hot this summer. And its been worked hard since I had AMR load a tune.
First power adder AMG and want to take care of those high spooling turbos! I did a search here but did not find how to do the reset that the oil has been changed?
Second is does doing the work yourself void the warranty? I always do my changes to the other cars but have tended to take the high end Mercs to the dealer. This is so easy with a Mity Vac seems
like throwing money away not to do it yourself.
Sincerely,
Doug - DougsC43
Service reset procedure here -

Regarding warranty question, if you keep records of your work showing you performed the service on time, you'll be fine. It'd be on MB to prove a failure was a direct result of your work. Since you're now flash tuned, that whole concept goes out the window anyway. Enjoy the drive
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 12:49 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by DougsC43
Thank you for the great step by step. I only have 2100 miles on my 2018, but its been 11 months and extremely hot this summer. And its been worked hard since I had AMR load a tune.
First power adder AMG and want to take care of those high spooling turbos! I did a search here but did not find how to do the reset that the oil has been changed?
Second is does doing the work yourself void the warranty? I always do my changes to the other cars but have tended to take the high end Mercs to the dealer. This is so easy with a Mity Vac seems
like throwing money away not to do it yourself.
Sincerely,
Doug - DougsC43
This is true but MB service also do other things besides change the oil, like check and fix re-calls, top off fluids, check break pad thickness, tire pressure etc... That is why it is sometimes important to bring it back in for a minor service. When I do in between 10k mi oil changes, I do it myself and MB tech does not know that I worked on my car- that is if you use the exact the parts as specified in this thread.

Last edited by Lazz83; Aug 21, 2018 at 12:51 PM. Reason: update
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Old Jan 25, 2019 | 08:24 AM
  #30  
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Would this be the same for an SLC43?

Can you tell me if this would be roughly the same procedure for an SLC43? What the dealership charges for an oil change is robbery. I am more than capable of doing this myself, but I can't find any information on it for my model. Is the oil filter cover "socket" the same size? I can get one of those from the part number shown if it is. I am sure there are many MB owners that would rather pay someone else to do these basic services, but I would rather do them myself so I know they are done correctly.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jan 25, 2019 | 09:20 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by jrc_slc43
Can you tell me if this would be roughly the same procedure for an SLC43? What the dealership charges for an oil change is robbery. I am more than capable of doing this myself, but I can't find any information on it for my model. Is the oil filter cover "socket" the same size? I can get one of those from the part number shown if it is. I am sure there are many MB owners that would rather pay someone else to do these basic services, but I would rather do them myself so I know they are done correctly.

Thanks in advance.
Part numbers for filters and filter cover are the same across all 43 models from what I can see. Other than the belly pan, I see no reason why anything would be different.
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Old Jan 25, 2019 | 09:23 AM
  #32  
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That's what I was thinking, Thanks for the confirmation.
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Old Jan 25, 2019 | 03:07 PM
  #33  
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when I used to bring in my C32 into the dealer for oil change (2004 time frame), they would use a vacuum pump and pull it from the dip stick hole (really didn't have a real dip stick though) all done up top, no pulling the shroud off, no drain plug R & R, pretty quick. The mechanic I take it to now does the same thing. Which way does Mercedes recommend oil change for C43? Probably mentioned on this site some where, but i am being lazy
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Old Jan 25, 2019 | 07:54 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by wanabe
when I used to bring in my C32 into the dealer for oil change (2004 time frame), they would use a vacuum pump and pull it from the dip stick hole (really didn't have a real dip stick though) all done up top, no pulling the shroud off, no drain plug R & R, pretty quick. The mechanic I take it to now does the same thing. Which way does Mercedes recommend oil change for C43? Probably mentioned on this site some where, but i am being lazy
I think they do it from the top at the dealer as well but the best would be from drain pan to get all the nasty stuff at the bottom. But if you were to move around the vaccuum hose then that would arguable be better than drain pan method...
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Old Jan 25, 2019 | 08:56 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by jonathan358
I think they do it from the top at the dealer as well but the best would be from drain pan to get all the nasty stuff at the bottom. But if you were to move around the vaccuum hose then that would arguable be better than drain pan method...
It helps to suck out the oil when it's hot so any gunk on the bottom of the pan is mixed up in the oil.
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Old Jan 25, 2019 | 09:28 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by synergize
It helps to suck out the oil when it's hot so any gunk on the bottom of the pan is mixed up in the oil.
Yeah, that's true. If you just ran the car, all the dirt should be mixed well enough that a tube would do the job just fine!
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Old Jan 28, 2019 | 09:35 AM
  #37  
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I have the means to easily get the car up and get underneath, so I've always done the drain plug method. An extra 3 minutes vs. vacuum method maybe.

I've always thought it would be more beneficial to drain early on to be sure to remove any settling metal shavings from manufacturing and break-in. However, I'm 2500mi from my next oil change and I'll be transitioning to the vacuum. Catching up with the times I guess...
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Old Jan 28, 2019 | 10:45 AM
  #38  
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I've had the dealer strip the oil pan plug on my previous car. Required an entire new pan apparently. Very annoying and frustrating.

Would easily go for the vacuum method if DIY'ing with the only exception being at milestone service intervals to ensure the engine is operating well and to clean the magnet (potentially at 50k/100k miles).

But, dgaf if I am leasing either way.
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Old Jan 28, 2019 | 01:52 PM
  #39  
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Well I just Amazon'ed a vacuum and a filter cover wrench (and a floor jack pan adapter) to do this. I won't be needing to do a service until November when the wife's GLC300 is due, but I figured I could use the vac on my truck as its getting old enough that is needs a power steering fluid change and other things. Will probably not want to bother climbing under my SLC43 when it is service time, so doing the work from above seems much less hassle. I'm glad I stumbled upon this forum. Just wish they had a sub-forum for my SLC43 AMG
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Old May 13, 2019 | 11:42 AM
  #40  
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Great write up.

https://www.youcanic.com/wiki/merced...e-instructions

Another very good source that has step by step instructions, capacities, torque specs and more.
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 11:43 PM
  #41  
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I have been reading up on DIY oil changes for using the top suction method. Since I have the tool, I want to give this a shot and I can be more hands on with the car.

What oil temp is considered warm for this method since I read that it helps with extracting the fluid easier? 60C enough? The oil might cool down quick since my garage isn't heated (5-10C) and I'm from the cold. Last oil change was almost 20000 km before.
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Old Dec 31, 2019 | 12:13 AM
  #42  
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I warm it until the temp goes from blue to white then let it sit for a 10-15 min so things aren’t so brutally hot.
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Old Dec 31, 2019 | 10:28 AM
  #43  
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If you want to get almost every drop out have it up to operating temps (white numbers - not blue. Heat thins the viscosity some and makes it easier to pump it all out.
Hint: Also helps to create suction if you seal around the drain tube and the oil tube. Just a cloth shop towel does the trick but makes a big difference in the suction.
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 11:57 AM
  #44  
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1st oil change

So I just did my first at home oil change on my recently purchased 2016 c450 , and pulled out 8 quarts with the mityvac!!
can ya'll please confirm the the correct quantity IS 6.9 quarts?? I filled with 6.5 quarts and dipstick is at the max line. Also had a non Mercedes oil filter installed. One can assume the last change was not done at a dealership.
Thoughts??
thanks
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 12:21 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by AMc450amg
So I just did my first at home oil change on my recently purchased 2016 c450 , and pulled out 8 quarts with the mityvac!!
can ya'll please confirm the the correct quantity IS 6.9 quarts?? I filled with 6.5 quarts and dipstick is at the max line. Also had a non Mercedes oil filter installed. One can assume the last change was not done at a dealership.
Thoughts??
thanks
I seem to be adding around 7.5 to refill mine to max line. 7qts is the estimated refill i think because we have an oil cooler and its not always possible to drain that.
When checking the level are you doing so with the car at operating temp and off?
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 07:33 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by MatthewJ
I seem to be adding around 7.5 to refill mine to max line. 7qts is the estimated refill i think because we have an oil cooler and its not always possible to drain that.
When checking the level are you doing so with the car at operating temp and off?
checked stone cold and it shows MAX , brought to temp and shut off , waited 5 minutes and it's right at the half way mark.
I should be good , but will definitely keep an eye on it.
When is the optimum time to check it ? Cold , hot or hot and wait a few minutes to allow for bleed back to the pan?
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 09:31 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by AMc450amg
checked stone cold and it shows MAX , brought to temp and shut off , waited 5 minutes and it's right at the half way mark.
I should be good , but will definitely keep an eye on it.
When is the optimum time to check it ? Cold , hot or hot and wait a few minutes to allow for bleed back to the pan?
Debated heavily depending on who you ask, but my take on it is any shop is going to be checking the engine hot(running temp), car off, and after it has sat for a few minutes.
I would expect a higher level when "stone cold" as most of the oil has drained into the sump, but this is not a good indicator of how the engine likes to run.
Its common practice when changing the oil to run the car for a minimum of 30 seconds to allow the oil to circulate before checking for proper fill. I get a lower reading(min mark) when cold after a quick start up, then when getting home, popping the hood and checking it (max mark).
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Old Sep 25, 2022 | 03:51 PM
  #48  
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Time to re-surface a really old post.
I just did my oil change. Before the extraction, my dip stick reading was 1/5 of the indicator range above the min level. I was able to extract about 7L (indicator on the oil extractor reservoir) in 40 mins. Towards the end, I knew there was more to extract but that would require a lot more effort to pump the extractor. Pouring the old oil back onto empty oil containers gave approx 6.5L, a bit of discrepancies but that should be enough either way. Afterall, I was able to extract more oil than my previous times by using a better extractor and sealing up the dip stick tube opening since the extractor tube fitting was able to plug most of the opening.
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Old Oct 12, 2022 | 07:31 AM
  #49  
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I've done a few changes, with the mittyvac....key to success is engine warm.....and patience. I get about 6 liters. The one time I didn't do it warm I only got 4 liters, and overfilled the engine....and had to vacuum more oil out.
Warm, flat surface or nose slightly up (don't have a flat-flat driveway), and take your time. The extractor takes longer than lift and unscrew bottom plug but overall the C43 has the easiest oil service ever.....
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Old Oct 12, 2022 | 09:28 AM
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Good job... thanks for taking the time to post this :-)
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