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I was wondering if anyone would still respond to this.
I can't get the Mityvac's here in Canada but saw lots of positive videos about them. I did use a more solid pump this time around and was surprised at ~7L extraction too.
The first time I did this was when I tried to extract it in cool weather (10C), totally clueless. The key is definitely warm up the oil and plug the dip stick hole with the rubber of the pump if possible.
Is there any reason to use a magnetic oil drain plug in this modern engine? I believe the heads and block are aluminum, but is there any iron in cylinder sleeves, pistons, rings, bearings, valve train, cam shafts, crank shaft, etc?
In addition to my above question, I also have the following questions.
- In this picture from above, does the seal ring (white arrow) getting oiled actually stretch around and fit into the large seal slot (red arrow)? That seems like a big stretch.
- Does a replacement small seal (yellow arrow) come with the filter kit?
- If you use the drain plug, is its washer a reusable one or is it a crush washer that needs replaced each oil change?
- If you use the drain plug, is its washer a reusable one or is it a crush washer that needs replaced each oil change?
I just called my dealership and they said the crush washer part number is 007 603 014 106. I'm used to working on older cars, this longer part number confused me at first! I also see a longer part number on the filter canister remover socket shown above, so I guess it's just normal now.
Dammit, I'm answering a lot of my own questions today. I should have spent more time looking at the provided pics and at pics of parts for sale.
- The new filters clearly come with the plastic tower, including the small rubber seal at the tip.
- The filter canister (not the plastic on the filter) clearly has the groove for the large rubber seal. And, the pic I chose to focus on must have an optical illusion, as the seal looks right in the rest of the pics.
Is there any reason to use a magnetic oil drain plug in this modern engine? I believe the heads and block are aluminum, but is there any iron in cylinder sleeves, pistons, rings, bearings, valve train, cam shafts, crank shaft, etc?
Originally Posted by GermanCarShow
In addition to my above question, I also have the following questions.
- In this picture from above, does the seal ring (white arrow) getting oiled actually stretch around and fit into the large seal slot (red arrow)? That seems like a big stretch.
- Does a replacement small seal (yellow arrow) come with the filter kit?
- If you use the drain plug, is its washer a reusable one or is it a crush washer that needs replaced each oil change?
Originally Posted by GermanCarShow
I just called my dealership and they said the crush washer part number is 007 603 014 106. I'm used to working on older cars, this longer part number confused me at first! I also see a longer part number on the filter canister remover socket shown above, so I guess it's just normal now.
Originally Posted by GermanCarShow
Dammit, I'm answering a lot of my own questions today. I should have spent more time looking at the provided pics and at pics of parts for sale.
- The new filters clearly come with the plastic tower, including the small rubber seal at the tip.
- The filter canister (not the plastic on the filter) clearly has the groove for the large rubber seal. And, the pic I chose to focus on must have an optical illusion, as the seal looks right in the rest of the pics.
Wish I came across your questions sooner I would had answered them as I DIY my oil changes but glad you figured it out, for those who come across your post they might find it helpful so not a bad idea of posting your own findings.
Seal for red arrow location should come with the new filter.
As far as the magnetic plug, other than being out a few extra bucks, what could possibly be the harm in having the extra piece of mind? Schrodinger's Magnetic Drain Plug! Ideally it should never grab anything...but if it needed to, how else would you know?
Hey everyone. I finally did my first oil change. I'm doing my own following track days, just for added engine lifetime health. Still using dealer for scheduled maintenance. I used the topside MightyVac system. Yes, you should arrange the hose & plugs so that you're just putting the rubber stopper at the top of the dipstick tube. The dipstick tube runs to the bottom of the pan, so you don't have to put a hose inside the dipstick tube. After getting about 7L out, I went ahead and put the car on ramps and drained through the drain plug into an old water bottle. I got about 7 oz of oil out! So, this vac method using only the dispstick tube does not get it all out, but since I'll be doing a couple oil changes (track weekends) between scheduled changes, I think I'll keep doing the topside change.
As far as the magnetic plug, other than being out a few extra bucks, what could possibly be the harm in having the extra piece of mind? Schrodinger's Magnetic Drain Plug! Ideally it should never grab anything...but if it needed to, how else would you know?
Schrodinger's Magnetic Drain Plug is hilarious!
You would have to send off some oil for lab analysis. I've done that before on classic cars.
I did buy one the other day and will be doing another oil change soon (had a great track day at Mid-Ohio!). But it will probably be next year when I do another oil change and look at it. Also, I'm wondering what the most effective way is to keep the dealership from throwing away my special drain plug when they change my oil. Hummmm.....
I did buy one the other day and will be doing another oil change soon (had a great track day at Mid-Ohio!). But it will probably be next year when I do another oil change and look at it. Also, I'm wondering what the most effective way is to keep the dealership from throwing away my special drain plug when they change my oil. Hummmm.....
Through DIY but I get it, you might not want to DIY.
Curious if you DIY oil changers are keeping your receipts. If you are not, are you worried about resale value since a potential buyer may not believe you about the maintenance you have performed? I didn't go through with a purchase since the guy claimed he did his own oil changes, plus some other stuff, but didn't have the receipts to prove it.
Curious if you DIY oil changers are keeping your receipts. If you are not, are you worried about resale value since a potential buyer may not believe you about the maintenance you have performed? I didn't go through with a purchase since the guy claimed he did his own oil changes, plus some other stuff, but didn't have the receipts to prove it.
I don’t keep receipts, but I’ve recorded everything in the MB maintenance log booklet with dates, where I purchased parts, observations and general notes. If trading in, I’ve never found maintenance records to weigh too heavily (short of exotic tier)…different story for a private sale though obviously.
I'm in the middle of my change, when I removed the drain plug there was no washer, no leaks either. I'll see if I have a suitable copper washer but if not I'll install without it. Somebody either ran over road debris or ripped the panel to access the drain plug without removing the panel as it has a large chunk removed, jagged edges but I can see a ham-fisted mechanic using pliers to snip off chunks until enough was removed. I'll be ordering a new panel so if anyone has a good source other than the dealer please let me know.
I've never really considered using the Mity-Vac oil change suction unit, I've always drained my oil from the bottom of the pan. Recently all my Porsches and BMW's don't have dip sticks anyway(save for the Cayenne which didn't come with one but has a tube which I got a VW dipstick for). I guess I'm old school and like to get every bit of oil and the accompanying sludge that sits on the bottom out of the engine. Plus, I have a MaxJax midrise lift which I have to justify! To each his own, and there's nothing inherently wrong with sucking it out from the top. I've done it this way since I was in my early teens and can't stop now. I'm 75, btw.
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