Anyone purchased Racechip for 2019 C43?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
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Hi, I just ordered a Racechip GTS for my 2019 C43 AMG from their company website and it is now on the way. And I've heard some pros and cons regarding using the Racechip. What I've learned so far is the chip just makes your engine more powerful but does not enhance other major parts of your vehicle. I've seen some comments like the chip makes your transmission strained, no smooth shift, engine issue, and etc. So I'm afraid that the chip would damage my car at some point. Does anyone know the real quality of the Racechip? With a long-term reliability POV, is racechip still a good choice?
#2
I ran a racechip for about 6 months. Yes puts strain on transmission sometimes clunky. It will give you a good performance increase but not something I would use if you are going to be driving the car really hard for long period of time.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Search is your friend. There are many threads about the merits of RaceChip, and other options like the JB4. If you want set it and forget it, RaceChip is acceptable. If you demand more, JB4.
#4
RaceChip launched a completely new product a year ago and improved the hardware and software again last month. They are really ahead of the market now. Many reviews ("clunky") refer to older products, so I recommend to test it yourself. Please don't forget to let us know your review. It's supposed to be much smoother now.
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Arta.xerxes (06-21-2024)
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IndyTom12 (11-20-2020)
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
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#8
Definitely I’m Sport+ bit it is a bit jerky
bone stock. Rarely drive in a sport+ and use the Racechip Via Bluetooth when ever I am trying to boost
moleage I’m comfort or am facing aggressive traffic on the freeway
bone stock. Rarely drive in a sport+ and use the Racechip Via Bluetooth when ever I am trying to boost
moleage I’m comfort or am facing aggressive traffic on the freeway
#9
Member
What benefits do you feel you get from the racechip in comfort mode?
I have been running in Individual mode (Sport mode engine, eco climate, comfort everything else), and it seems great.
I thought that the Racechip (or tuning in general) really only really helps you in Sport+... Am I wrong?
I definitely don't know much about tuning.
I have been running in Individual mode (Sport mode engine, eco climate, comfort everything else), and it seems great.
I thought that the Racechip (or tuning in general) really only really helps you in Sport+... Am I wrong?
I definitely don't know much about tuning.
#11
What benefits do you feel you get from the racechip in comfort mode?
I have been running in Individual mode (Sport mode engine, eco climate, comfort everything else), and it seems great.
I thought that the Racechip (or tuning in general) really only really helps you in Sport+... Am I wrong?
I definitely don't know much about tuning.
I have been running in Individual mode (Sport mode engine, eco climate, comfort everything else), and it seems great.
I thought that the Racechip (or tuning in general) really only really helps you in Sport+... Am I wrong?
I definitely don't know much about tuning.
#13
Yes! Once you've pulled back the white tab, you need to slightly lift the edge of the connetor on the same side as the tab as you pull the connector apart. Once you have one apart, you can see how they work and it all makes more sense.
I use a small/thin flat-blade screwdriver to insert under the edge -- i.e., with the white tab you pulled back positioned on the top and to the left, you insert the screwdriver blade under the female/top connector's outside edge where the blade will be inserted from the right side and moved towards the left/tab between the underlying male connector and the edge of the female connector (wish I had a picture). Once the screwdriver (or a small pick, if you have one) is inserted a small amount, the connector will pull apart smoothly, with little force. You'll see there's a small square hole in the top/female part with a slight raised barb on the male part. By inserting the screwdriver, you allow the edge to clear the raised barb.
For your first connector unclipping, pick the one that's the easiest to see/access.
I use a small/thin flat-blade screwdriver to insert under the edge -- i.e., with the white tab you pulled back positioned on the top and to the left, you insert the screwdriver blade under the female/top connector's outside edge where the blade will be inserted from the right side and moved towards the left/tab between the underlying male connector and the edge of the female connector (wish I had a picture). Once the screwdriver (or a small pick, if you have one) is inserted a small amount, the connector will pull apart smoothly, with little force. You'll see there's a small square hole in the top/female part with a slight raised barb on the male part. By inserting the screwdriver, you allow the edge to clear the raised barb.
For your first connector unclipping, pick the one that's the easiest to see/access.
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Yes! Once you've pulled back the white tab, you need to slightly lift the edge of the connetor on the same side as the tab as you pull the connector apart. Once you have one apart, you can see how they work and it all makes more sense.
I use a small/thin flat-blade screwdriver to insert under the edge -- i.e., with the white tab you pulled back positioned on the top and to the left, you insert the screwdriver blade under the female/top connector's outside edge where the blade will be inserted from the right side and moved towards the left/tab between the underlying male connector and the edge of the female connector (wish I had a picture). Once the screwdriver (or a small pick, if you have one) is inserted a small amount, the connector will pull apart smoothly, with little force. You'll see there's a small square hole in the top/female part with a slight raised barb on the male part. By inserting the screwdriver, you allow the edge to clear the raised barb.
For your first connector unclipping, pick the one that's the easiest to see/access.
I use a small/thin flat-blade screwdriver to insert under the edge -- i.e., with the white tab you pulled back positioned on the top and to the left, you insert the screwdriver blade under the female/top connector's outside edge where the blade will be inserted from the right side and moved towards the left/tab between the underlying male connector and the edge of the female connector (wish I had a picture). Once the screwdriver (or a small pick, if you have one) is inserted a small amount, the connector will pull apart smoothly, with little force. You'll see there's a small square hole in the top/female part with a slight raised barb on the male part. By inserting the screwdriver, you allow the edge to clear the raised barb.
For your first connector unclipping, pick the one that's the easiest to see/access.
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#15
The locking tabs should slide back relatively easily and emit a little "click" when they do. If they don't, try first pushing the connector together and see whether that helps release the tab. I've never experienced it, but apparently they can get stuck. Personally, I wouldn't apply too much force. If things aren't working, then there's some other issue and you don't want to break a connector or sensor.
Sometimes the tabs slide back so easily that you may not notice they've done so. To check, push them back in and see whether they move (the movement is fairly small, maybe 1/8-3/16"). After that, from my experience, you'll still need to do the "insert something to get over the barb" trick as they seem to be double-secured. The first time I did it, that completely threw me.
Sometimes the tabs slide back so easily that you may not notice they've done so. To check, push them back in and see whether they move (the movement is fairly small, maybe 1/8-3/16"). After that, from my experience, you'll still need to do the "insert something to get over the barb" trick as they seem to be double-secured. The first time I did it, that completely threw me.
#16
I had one of the sensors that wouldn’t come loose. I used my heat gun to “warm” the sensor which helped to soften the plastic slightly and it came loose. A hairdryer would probably also do the trick
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
All the white locking taps are successfully pulled out. But those plugs won’t come off no matter how much force I apply. I’ve done every pre-installation steps like putting the key out of signal range. And I’ve tried the way you guys have talked about. It’s just stuck on it. Feeling bad
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#19
Wow, maybe try wiggling the connector side-to-side while heating with warm air (hair dryer or heat gun held back a ways). You could also try some solvent, but the only thing I'd consider somewhat safe is rubbing alcohol (and do this while the electrics are quiesced). Never heard of one being that stuck, before. Bummer. The only good news I can think of is that, when you finally do get the RaceChip installed, you're going to really like it.
#20
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Wow, maybe try wiggling the connector side-to-side while heating with warm air (hair dryer or heat gun held back a ways). You could also try some solvent, but the only thing I'd consider somewhat safe is rubbing alcohol (and do this while the electrics are quiesced). Never heard of one being that stuck, before. Bummer. The only good news I can think of is that, when you finally do get the RaceChip installed, you're going to really like it.
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#21
#22
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Hey guys, now I've successfully installed the Racechip and my car is incredibly fast. From original 4.5s to 4.0s (sometimes 3.9s with a good launch) when doing 0-100. Just amazing!
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#23
Congratulations, glad to see you were able to get this installed! That is quick- Are those 0-60 times or 0-100?!
#24
Junior Member
Thread Starter
#25
So what was the issue with the connector(s) and what did you do that finally enabled them to be pulled apart?