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2018 C43 Coupe here. I want to hard wire the dash cam so it powers up at startup. I tried both fuse boxes at passenger side and trunk, and found out the only fuses that powered on/off after car turned on/off are the 12V strip in the trunk (please see picture). So I hooked up my 12V to 5V converter and hard wired the dash cam to the 5V side. It worked fine for a couple of weeks until dash cam refused to turn on. I measured the converter output voltage and it was almost 0V so I figured it was a bad power supply and got another one. Connected it and got same result: no output voltage. Measured input voltage and it was dropped down to 5V! keep in mind the input is connected to a bunch of other 12V internal components so I am surprised I did not get any errors....? Right now I have given up hard wiring the dash cam as I don't want to cause any damage to the internal electronics.
Both 12V to 5V converters were safely fused. I have also tested both 12V to 5V converters with other 12V sources and they are both fine. Dash cam was not even connected to their output when they were dropping the car voltage to 5V. I had the same setup in my BMW without any problems as well as C43 for a couple of weeks. any idea what the problem is?
2018 C43 Coupe here. I want to hard wire the dash cam so it powers up at startup. I tried both fuse boxes at passenger side and trunk, and found out the only fuses that powered on/off after car turned on/off are the 12V strip in the trunk (please see picture). So I hooked up my 12V to 5V converter and hard wired the dash cam to the 5V side. It worked fine for a couple of weeks until dash cam refused to turn on. I measured the converter output voltage and it was almost 0V so I figured it was a bad power supply and got another one. Connected it and got same result: no output voltage. Measured input voltage and it was dropped down to 5V! keep in mind the input is connected to a bunch of other 12V internal components so I am surprised I did not get any errors....? Right now I have given up hard wiring the dash cam as I don't want to cause any damage to the internal electronics.
Both 12V to 5V converters were safely fused. I have also tested both 12V to 5V converters with other 12V sources and they are both fine. Dash cam was not even connected to their output when they were dropping the car voltage to 5V. I had the same setup in my BMW without any problems as well as C43 for a couple of weeks. any idea what the problem is?
I just used a fuse tap on the circuit for the dash clock for always on 12v. Works fine and was much easier than running wire to the trunk.
If you want it to startup only when the car is started or accessory mode, tap into the driver side fuse box, glove box light fuse. I did a few c43's like this including mine.
If you want it to startup only when the car is started or accessory mode, tap into the driver side fuse box, glove box light fuse. I did a few c43's like this including mine.
I don't have a fuse box inside on the driver side, are you talking about the one under the hood?
Yes there is in the left hand side, you have to remove the cover with a pry tool.
If you look in the fuse area in the trunk there is a pamphlet that's shows all the fuse box locations and what the fuses are.
I just hard wired it back to the fuse box in trunk; there is a 12V bus that powers on at the same time as the car. I think my mistake was not properly grounding the neutral, hopefully this time I got it right.
hey man i know nothing about wiring but this is a photo of how the pro guy installed my Blackvue dr900s.
It goes to a backup battery then to the camera
lol this is exactly how I did it this time, used the exact same fuse plug and ground bolt. No battery back up though, I want the cam to turn off when I turn off.
turned out my problems were due to connecting 2 dash cams (front and back) on the same 12 to 5V power supply. I isolated the power supplies and they seem to work OK now.
I had a piggyback setup so how would that work on these?
I haven’t been able to find a diagram for the UK drivers fuse box unfortunately
For empty slot, I just use the piggyback fuse without adding the original because there isn't one. Use the multimeter to test the right rail. Left should be constant and right should be accessory.
I've got a E class W213 and i've nearly completed the wiring but for the love of god I cant find a way to pass the cable to the boot/trunk. my seats dont fold down Can anyone point me in the right direction please
I've got a E class W213 and i've nearly completed the wiring but for the love of god I cant find a way to pass the cable to the boot/trunk. my seats dont fold down Can anyone point me in the right direction please
i couldn’t locate an ignition live only permanent when testing
did you ever find a solution to this, as I am in the same situation. Failing that I will have to get a professional install. My side fuses look like the attached
did you ever find a solution to this, as I am in the same situation. Failing that I will have to get a professional install. My side fuses look like the attached
there are no ignition live in either box in the UK so paid an installer £30 to tap in to wiring under the steering column which become live when unlocked and shuts down 15 seconds after engine is turned off. Works perfectly!
did you ever find a solution to this, as I am in the same situation. Failing that I will have to get a professional install. My side fuses look like the attached
All the empty fuse to the top(or right side vertically viewed) are ACC or powered when ignition is on ACC or ON.
I tapped into the yellow block for constant BATT and empty black block for ACC
07-12-2019, 09:02 AM
Hard wiring dash cam
