Break fluid change
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Break fluid change
Hey
just wondering what the service interval for this is, I was told every 40,000km it should he changed. Also what fluid should i get and how much of it? Thanks in advance
just wondering what the service interval for this is, I was told every 40,000km it should he changed. Also what fluid should i get and how much of it? Thanks in advance
#2
It's every other service interval (e.g., every 2 years of you don't go over the mileage limits for service intervals). If you don't run your car on the track, use Mercedes DOT4+ fluid. Aside from being a high quality, it also comes in a properly sealed metal container and, assuming you replace the lid ASAP, it will last for years without picking up moisture.
In fact, I was just doing some brake work and, for kicks, checked the moisture content in a can that was about 80% full and was opened over 2 years ago. The tester has 0%, 1%, 2% and 3+% scales and it showed 0%. I double-checked that the the tester is working by adding a bit of water to some bled fluid. That's pretty good, given that my garage sits at a rather constant 65-75% relative humidity.
In any event, it's actually best not to use _any_ brake fluid that's older than 2 years. In my case, I'll use this old stuff to refill after doing the caliper boots and before I flush/replace the entire system's fluid with fresh high-temp fluid (it's a tracked C63 S).
However, if you run your car on the track, you'll want to completely flush/replace the fluid at least every year using a high-temp/racing brake fluid. AMG (via the private AMG form) recommends Motul high temp Brake Fluid (that'd be 600 or 660) or Castrol SRF Brake Fluid. The AMG poster stated "This is probably the only thing AMG Academy doesn't use MB OEM in the vehicles."
In fact, I was just doing some brake work and, for kicks, checked the moisture content in a can that was about 80% full and was opened over 2 years ago. The tester has 0%, 1%, 2% and 3+% scales and it showed 0%. I double-checked that the the tester is working by adding a bit of water to some bled fluid. That's pretty good, given that my garage sits at a rather constant 65-75% relative humidity.
In any event, it's actually best not to use _any_ brake fluid that's older than 2 years. In my case, I'll use this old stuff to refill after doing the caliper boots and before I flush/replace the entire system's fluid with fresh high-temp fluid (it's a tracked C63 S).
However, if you run your car on the track, you'll want to completely flush/replace the fluid at least every year using a high-temp/racing brake fluid. AMG (via the private AMG form) recommends Motul high temp Brake Fluid (that'd be 600 or 660) or Castrol SRF Brake Fluid. The AMG poster stated "This is probably the only thing AMG Academy doesn't use MB OEM in the vehicles."
The following 2 users liked this post by user33:
jonathan358 (09-10-2020),
TWINTURBOS (09-08-2020)
#3
It's every other service interval (e.g., every 2 years of you don't go over the mileage limits for service intervals). If you don't run your car on the track, use Mercedes DOT4+ fluid. Aside from being a high quality, it also comes in a properly sealed metal container and, assuming you replace the lid ASAP, it will last for years without picking up moisture.
In fact, I was just doing some brake work and, for kicks, checked the moisture content in a can that was about 80% full and was opened over 2 years ago. The tester has 0%, 1%, 2% and 3+% scales and it showed 0%. I double-checked that the the tester is working by adding a bit of water to some bled fluid. That's pretty good, given that my garage sits at a rather constant 65-75% relative humidity.
In any event, it's actually best not to use _any_ brake fluid that's older than 2 years. In my case, I'll use this old stuff to refill after doing the caliper boots and before I flush/replace the entire system's fluid with fresh high-temp fluid (it's a tracked C63 S).
However, if you run your car on the track, you'll want to completely flush/replace the fluid at least every year using a high-temp/racing brake fluid. AMG (via the private AMG form) recommends Motul high temp Brake Fluid (that'd be 600 or 660) or Castrol SRF Brake Fluid. The AMG poster stated "This is probably the only thing AMG Academy doesn't use MB OEM in the vehicles."
In fact, I was just doing some brake work and, for kicks, checked the moisture content in a can that was about 80% full and was opened over 2 years ago. The tester has 0%, 1%, 2% and 3+% scales and it showed 0%. I double-checked that the the tester is working by adding a bit of water to some bled fluid. That's pretty good, given that my garage sits at a rather constant 65-75% relative humidity.
In any event, it's actually best not to use _any_ brake fluid that's older than 2 years. In my case, I'll use this old stuff to refill after doing the caliper boots and before I flush/replace the entire system's fluid with fresh high-temp fluid (it's a tracked C63 S).
However, if you run your car on the track, you'll want to completely flush/replace the fluid at least every year using a high-temp/racing brake fluid. AMG (via the private AMG form) recommends Motul high temp Brake Fluid (that'd be 600 or 660) or Castrol SRF Brake Fluid. The AMG poster stated "This is probably the only thing AMG Academy doesn't use MB OEM in the vehicles."
#4
No, you can use the ol' "pump the brake pedal" method ... but something like a Motive bleeder is more convenient. If you're doing caliper/hose work, be sure not to drain the system (i.e., use a plug on the open line) or you'll need to engage ABS to complete the bleeding process (which is most easily done via Xentry or some equivalent tool).
The following users liked this post:
stockbmw (09-08-2020)
#5
Just trying to understand others' perspective...
Why bother with DIY'ing the brake fluid change? The interval is long and even the dealer charges fairly cheaply for this job.
The hassle for time and costs of tool and fluid are not justifiable on this task, no?
Why bother with DIY'ing the brake fluid change? The interval is long and even the dealer charges fairly cheaply for this job.
The hassle for time and costs of tool and fluid are not justifiable on this task, no?
#6
In my case it's because my (excellent) dealer-service won't install anything other than genuine/standard MBZ parts/fluids/etc. ... so that means no high-temp brake fluid from them. It's a legal/liability thing, for them, and I understand that. Last year I had an indy shop do it, but that (like taking the car to the dealer) takes as much time as simply doing it myself. Aside from that, as long as I'm not rushed, I actually enjoy doing my own maintenance and it helps me understand more 'n more about the car. Generally, more understanding leads to more appreciation.
#7
In my case it's because my (excellent) dealer-service won't install anything other than genuine/standard MBZ parts/fluids/etc. ... so that means no high-temp brake fluid from them. It's a legal/liability thing, for them, and I understand that. Last year I had an indy shop do it, but that (like taking the car to the dealer) takes as much time as simply doing it myself. Aside from that, as long as I'm not rushed, I actually enjoy doing my own maintenance and it helps me understand more 'n more about the car. Generally, more understanding leads to more appreciation.
Half of the time my cars goes to the dealers, it comes back with a nick or two. Even with big *** sign that says 'dont wash', comes back with swirly marks from automatic rotorary cloth washer.