Sommy

My 2017 C43 has about 42K miles on it and I've noticed some brake issues lately. The brakes seem to be practically grinding or squeaking a lot. It not a smooth stop, it's more of a gripping tight feel if that makes sense. They are squeaky backing out of the garage each day.

I took it to the dealer a few months ago, thinking I needed new brake pads. I have replaced the rear pads once (at least) before already, but I don't 100% recall. The dealer looked at it and said they are fine and with these air cooled brakes it's common. However, I just don't remember it being this squeaky or grippy (rather than smooth). The dealer said I'm getting close to a new set of pads, but I should be good another 8-10K miles with no problem. They said when I replace them I have to do the roters as well and it would be about $1,000 for new roters and pads for all 4.

So - is this common to have the brake issues like I describe? Do I have to replace the roters when I do the pads and is $1,000 a good price?

I love the car, but probably want to trade it in for something new in 3-4 months. I already need new tires, so I would be in it $2K for tires and brakes if I keep it.

Oh and now my kid is learning to drive on it, so probably more wear and tear on the braking system.LOL

stockbmw

It looks like Benz beefy rotors are made of expensive paper. On a corolla, you get close to 100k miles or over 5 years not having to replace them tiny rotors but nope, Benz techs been trained to tell customers to replace rotors when replacing the pads.

If you are selling your car, just let next person deal with the issues. Unless your mechanic deems your car non-safe to drive for worned out tires and brakes that won't pass the safety certificate needed for DMV.

user33

The noise you're experiencing could easily be from the rotors getting rusty and not being "exercised" enough. I'd first try a brake bed-in sequence (ask Mr. Google) ... essentially some aggressive braking that will clean the pads/rotors and deposit some of the pad material onto the rotor.

Unless your rotors have cracks that are excessive and/or have gotten gouged, you can go by the wear-indicators on the rotors (see attached picture). When the wear erases the indicator divots, the rotor should be replaced. Rotors normally last through 1-3 sets of pads. Also, if you're not running your car on the track, which is at least an order of magnitude harder on brakes, don't panic if the wear indicators disappear part way through a pad set ... given that they're designed to stand up to track use, they're well over-designed for street use (assuming you don't drive/brake "like a idiot" on public roads ... well, not often, at least). #;-))

$1000 for front pads only, sounds excessive. Even for a slow-poke, it's a less than 1-hour job (half that for most mechanics) and the pads are not that expensive (check prices at FCP Euro, for example). If you're at all inclined to DIY, it's a pretty easy job and videos are available for guidance.

Sommy

Thanks for the insight. I will definitely look into the bed-in sequence. Hopefully that will do the trick. And if not - like the other poster said, maybe I'll just let the next guy deal with the issues. Ha.

And it's $1,000 for front and back - pads and roters. Is that a better deal?