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There is a separate cooler and heat exchanger for our intercooler setup.
Would be nice to know the ECU's pump speed table to better understand if this mod would benefit either a daily or track car.
Would probably be great for a drag strip day, sitting in the lanes at full pump speed to cool down between runs, but in a daily driver maybe the pwm signal has the pump on high at any load more than idle?
Was really hoping it helps with faster cooling down at summer spirited drive + at the times when the engine goes to 100+ celsius/centigrade sitting idling in traffic with a/c on.
By the way, curious what everyone's maximum engine temperature reaches, mine not common but reaches 109 when in temperatures like 30 celsius/centigrade. What is the common operating temperature that the engine sits at? Mine sits at 96-98.
There is a separate cooler and heat exchanger for our intercooler setup.
Would be nice to know the ECU's pump speed table to better understand if this mod would benefit either a daily or track car.
Would probably be great for a drag strip day, sitting in the lanes at full pump speed to cool down between runs, but in a daily driver maybe the pwm signal has the pump on high at any load more than idle?
Where is it? wondering if we can get more airflow to it.
I have been running this way for a few weeks. not really sure that I am getting better temps as I tracked before and after. May cool down a little faster once out of traffic.
Does the IC use the same radiator as the motor? If so I think changing to a stand alone radiator just for the IC would be the best inexpensive cooling mod. That was you dont have the heat of the motor and the charge air both heating up the coolant.
The biggest issue with our cars is that the transmission and the intercooler both share the same coolant circuit. The best way to drop IC temps is meth or to separate the trans cooler from the IC system. The easiest way to do this is to add a dedicated heat exchanger for the trans cooler and leave the stock heat exchanger in place. Nobody makes the correct attachments to separate at the transmission cooler thermostat however, the M177 guys are lucky and get lots of cooling mods but we get screwed as nobody makes anything but the intercooler which probably can’t do much without getting cooler liquid.
Point of figuring out my mod wasn’t really to fix IAT’s, it was just to help a little bit to cool the car down and maybe cool a bit in staging. It’s not bad for the pump as some people here seem to think. The only way to get better IAT’s is meth or for someone to figure out how to separate our cooling systems. I want to try and figure out a manual switch for the fan one day, that would definitely help the most in cooling down after a race in conjunction with the always on pump mod.
The biggest issue with our cars is that the transmission and the intercooler both share the same coolant circuit. The best way to drop IC temps is meth or to separate the trans cooler from the IC system. The easiest way to do this is to add a dedicated heat exchanger for the trans cooler and leave the stock heat exchanger in place. Nobody makes the correct attachments to separate at the transmission cooler thermostat however, the M177 guys are lucky and get lots of cooling mods but we get screwed as nobody makes anything but the intercooler which probably can’t do much without getting cooler liquid.
Point of figuring out my mod wasn’t really to fix IAT’s, it was just to help a little bit to cool the car down and maybe cool a bit in staging. It’s not bad for the pump as some people here seem to think. The only way to get better IAT’s is meth or for someone to figure out how to separate our cooling systems. I want to try and figure out a manual switch for the fan one day, that would definitely help the most in cooling down after a race in conjunction with the always on pump mod.
The biggest issue with our cars is that the transmission and the intercooler both share the same coolant circuit. The best way to drop IC temps is meth or to separate the trans cooler from the IC system. The easiest way to do this is to add a dedicated heat exchanger for the trans cooler and leave the stock heat exchanger in place. Nobody makes the correct attachments to separate at the transmission cooler thermostat however, the M177 guys are lucky and get lots of cooling mods but we get screwed as nobody makes anything but the intercooler which probably can’t do much without getting cooler liquid.
Point of figuring out my mod wasn’t really to fix IAT’s, it was just to help a little bit to cool the car down and maybe cool a bit in staging. It’s not bad for the pump as some people here seem to think. The only way to get better IAT’s is meth or for someone to figure out how to separate our cooling systems. I want to try and figure out a manual switch for the fan one day, that would definitely help the most in cooling down after a race in conjunction with the always on pump mod.
Anyone know the part number of the trans cooler thermostat mentioned above?
I'd love to get one from a parts recycler and see if I could separate the trans cooling loop from the intercooler.
Anyone know the part number of the trans cooler thermostat mentioned above?
I'd love to get one from a parts recycler and see if I could separate the trans cooling loop from the intercooler.
Sorry that I don't have the part number but...
Saw this thread (and mod) being brought up and pretty popular lately and wondering if any C 43 owners tried it yet? I might give it a go. https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...ml#post8875511
Sorry that I don't have the part number but...
Saw this thread (and mod) being brought up and pretty popular lately and wondering if any C 43 owners tried it yet? I might give it a go. https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...ml#post8875511
Thanks for showing me that thread, I’ll try the mod tomorrow.
Thanks for showing me that thread, I’ll try the mod tomorrow.
Sounds good OP, and thanks again for telling us about the mod you came up with as well, it is a very good mod for our cars! I thoroughly enjoyed it.
Please do also update us on the oil pump solenoid like where is the plug and all as well as the improvements you see, from what I gathered and researched, there are only positives so a pretty good mod in general. Prolong engine lifespan, decrease amount of wear and/or possibility of scoring, smoother and more instant acceleration, quicker engine warm up, etc.
Sounds good OP, and thanks again for telling us about the mod you came up with as well, it is a very good mod for our cars! I thoroughly enjoyed it.
Please do also update us on the oil pump solenoid like where is the plug and all as well as the improvements you see, from what I gathered and researched, there are only positives so a pretty good mod in general. Prolong engine lifespan, decrease amount of wear and/or possibility of scoring, smoother and more instant acceleration, quicker engine warm up, etc.
Managed to find the plug and unplugged it. Very difficult area to access so hopefully no issues come up or else I will need to remove the intercooler to put the plug back in. Need to access from the bottom and use a hook tool to pull the silver clip and push in on the connector to remove it. Not easy but not hard with the right tool once you find what you need to do.
I meant to chime back in months ago, but this also works on my 19' GLC63. Pump center wire is the same, so I tapped(didn't cut) into the wire, ran it to a toggle in the cabin, then grounded the wire. Flip the switch on, or simply ground the wire, and the coolant pump and fan go into hyper mode. Flip it off, everything goes back to normal. No CE light, but after about 30 seconds, the low coolant icon pops up. Hit the back arrow on the steering wheel, and all seems good. I can definitely see this helping cool my GLC down in between passes at the track this summer.
Managed to find the plug and unplugged it. Very difficult area to access so hopefully no issues come up or else I will need to remove the intercooler to put the plug back in. Need to access from the bottom and use a hook tool to pull the silver clip and push in on the connector to remove it. Not easy but not hard with the right tool once you find what you need to do.
Thanks OP for the update, wish you were able to take some pictures but I understand it is hard to get a camera down there, how high did you have to jack the vehicle up to see the connector?
I meant to chime back in months ago, but this also works on my 19' GLC63. Pump center wire is the same, so I tapped(didn't cut) into the wire, ran it to a toggle in the cabin, then grounded the wire. Flip the switch on, or simply ground the wire, and the coolant pump and fan go into hyper mode. Flip it off, everything goes back to normal. No CE light, but after about 30 seconds, the low coolant icon pops up. Hit the back arrow on the steering wheel, and all seems good. I can definitely see this helping cool my GLC down in between passes at the track this summer.
Thanks OP for the update, wish you were able to take some pictures but I understand it is hard to get a camera down there, how high did you have to jack the vehicle up to see the connector?
Not high. Just high enough to get the underbody panel off up front.
Hi. Does anyone else get error codes after cutting the middle Black-Yellow wire?
U121A87 Communication with control unit 'Fan' has a malfunction. The message is missing.
U062387 Checking cooling system of on-board charger. Communication with coolant pump has a malfunction. The message is missing.
P048000 The output of electric fan 1 has an electrical fault or an open circuit.
Plus the fan will run at full speed once ignition switch is switched on. I haven seen this issue on those who did this mod.
The ride is 2017 GLC43 with M276 bi-turbo engine similar to C43 M276.
Last edited by werks400; Jun 14, 2024 at 07:53 AM.
Reason: add car info
Hi. Does anyone else get error codes after cutting the middle Black-Yellow wire?
U121A87 Communication with control unit 'Fan' has a malfunction. The message is missing.
U062387 Checking cooling system of on-board charger. Communication with coolant pump has a malfunction. The message is missing.
P048000 The output of electric fan 1 has an electrical fault or an open circuit.
Plus the fan will run at full speed once ignition switch is switched on. I haven seen this issue on those who did this mod.
The ride is 2017 GLC43 with M276 bi-turbo engine similar to C43 M276.
This is a W205 thread, not GLC, it’s probably different on those cars.
As I stated above, I did this on my GLC63 with the same results, so it may be somewhat universal.
Tried your method to leave the wire intact and tap a connection to ground; same results > the coolant pump and radiator fan went crazy! This way I can control when I require the additional cooling without the constant loud fan noise.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
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