Dyno Results - 2008 C63
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'05 C55
Dyno Results - 2008 C63
Hi everyone,
I took delivery of my car last night and had it on the dyno today. Ran it in 4th gear a couple of times and the numbers repeated themselves. Car has less than 100 miles on the odo.
Attached you'll find pics of the car, dyno results and a You Tube link to the video.
Car made 380.67 RWHP and 364.30 RWTQ on a Dynojet dyno.
Link to You Tube video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNQtqpOY2zQ
Enjoy!
I took delivery of my car last night and had it on the dyno today. Ran it in 4th gear a couple of times and the numbers repeated themselves. Car has less than 100 miles on the odo.
Attached you'll find pics of the car, dyno results and a You Tube link to the video.
Car made 380.67 RWHP and 364.30 RWTQ on a Dynojet dyno.
Link to You Tube video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNQtqpOY2zQ
Enjoy!
#3
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Didnt your dealer tell you about the break in period? I believe the break in is very important on these 63 engines. Our dealer which has rebuilt and eventually replaced 2 different 63 engines (s63 and ML63) claimed they believe it was because the owners did not properly break them in( and they had reason to believe so). Idk call me crazy but i just dont think its good for your car
#4
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=137233
Above is the new M3 dyno with 100 octane fuel and it has gotten about 366rwhp for the comparison.
Above is the new M3 dyno with 100 octane fuel and it has gotten about 366rwhp for the comparison.
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'05 C55
I removed the air filters and left the charcoal filters in place. It gained absolutely nothing. The air intake does not appear to be restrictive at all. I still want to figure out why my E63 made 410 RWHP stock and this car only does 380. Possibly in the tune but I need someone who can read the total advance ignition timing during a run. Done testing for now.
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'05 C55(sold)'05 E55(sold)'06 911C4S(sold)'06 ML350 '06 CLS55(sold),buncha slo bikes
the 6.2l engines absolutely benefit from an extended break-in period.I noticed a marked difference once the car hit 5000mi compared to when I first got it.Everyone has their own theory as to which break-in procedure works best.
I have my own,and as with all my new engines I dumped the oil&filter at 800miles.Seemed to have worked as my car clearly traps 2-3mph higher then other 63's at the track on the same day
I have my own,and as with all my new engines I dumped the oil&filter at 800miles.Seemed to have worked as my car clearly traps 2-3mph higher then other 63's at the track on the same day
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'05 C55
the 6.2l engines absolutely benefit from an extended break-in period.I noticed a marked difference once the car hit 5000mi compared to when I first got it.Everyone has their own theory as to which break-in procedure works best.
I have my own,and as with all my new engines I dumped the oil&filter at 800miles.Seemed to have worked as my car clearly traps 2-3mph higher then other 63's at the track on the same day
I have my own,and as with all my new engines I dumped the oil&filter at 800miles.Seemed to have worked as my car clearly traps 2-3mph higher then other 63's at the track on the same day
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'05 C55
Thanks for the kudos. I always calculate an 18% drivetrain loss in all late model automatics. The dyno is at MTI on the west side of Houston. Saw an '06 Z06 make 900 RWHP there not long ago. Had an F1 Procharger on it and built 427. Guy drove it back to Arizona and got 27 MPG!
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'05 C55(sold)'05 E55(sold)'06 911C4S(sold)'06 ML350 '06 CLS55(sold),buncha slo bikes
Do you plan on taking it to the dragstrip?
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STS,FGT,12C,P85D,M4
wow, the car sounds great, thanks for posting the results! you can pretty much see where the power levels off at 100MPH, ecu turning will turn this into 500+ HP, that HP curve will just keep rising....
do you have the dynojet run file? if so we can overlay it with an E63 to compare, PM me.......
do you have the dynojet run file? if so we can overlay it with an E63 to compare, PM me.......
Last edited by Fikse; 04-28-2008 at 07:10 PM.
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'05 C55
I could read the ignition timing on my E63 using an MSD Dashawk but it doesn't work on the C63. The total advance I witnessed on the E63 was 22 degrees. I'm curious where AMG set the timing on this car. I'll take it to the track to see how it does. I think the car is a little deceptive in the sense it is quicker than it feels.
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'05 C55(sold)'05 E55(sold)'06 911C4S(sold)'06 ML350 '06 CLS55(sold),buncha slo bikes
I could read the ignition timing on my E63 using an MSD Dashawk but it doesn't work on the C63. The total advance I witnessed on the E63 was 22 degrees. I'm curious where AMG set the timing on this car. I'll take it to the track to see how it does. I think the car is a little deceptive in the sense it is quicker than it feels.
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S600TT, R350
I removed the air filters and left the charcoal filters in place. It gained absolutely nothing.
Stock E63s run about 22 degrees, CLK63 is down to 17-18, I would not be surprised if C63s run below that.
As far as break-in. The harder you run from the beginning the better it will be.
#18
Sweet, considering that it made 380whp with an SAE .97 correction. That means it made 391whp with no correction factor.
Take 391 and figure a 15% drivetrain loss puts the crank power right at 450hp
Take 391 and figure a 15% drivetrain loss puts the crank power right at 450hp
#20
As far as break-in. The harder you run from the beginning the better it will be.[/QUOTE]
Hey just curious, is your suggestion to run the car a little harder from the get go, as opposed to babying it for the first 1000 miles. And if so? would you elaborate a little more on your theory, & why you think this is better? Thanks, I'm very interested to hear your reply, Cheers!
Hey just curious, is your suggestion to run the car a little harder from the get go, as opposed to babying it for the first 1000 miles. And if so? would you elaborate a little more on your theory, & why you think this is better? Thanks, I'm very interested to hear your reply, Cheers!
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'05 C55
I'll pull the charcoal filters and dyno with just the factory air filters in place and list my results. Are you able to have the C63 PCM modded yet?
Your break-in procedure is exactly the same as mine has always been. Drive it hard from the start and it will typically perform better than those that are "babied" from the beginning.
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EuroCharged 2012 C63 BS Coupè
Just my two cents, but my first MOD on my C55 was to remove that "Break-in" window sticker!!
Mercedes and AMG program the ECU to be very forgiving with high tolerence for average drivers. ie: a non enthusiast that might not follow service schedules, might use low grade fuel and otherwise not take good care of the vehicle. This is why companies like Kleemann and Renntech can squeeze extra HP by chipping alone.
This also relates to the easy break-in outlined in the user manual. this breaks in the motor in a way that if the service schedule is not followed, poor grade fuel used or general abuse, there are pre existing tolerences in place to protect the motor.
"Spare the rod and spoil the child"
If you are an enthusiast, drive as you would normally right from the start. The first 40 Klm are the most important. Hard, steady acceleration in second and third gears to a high rev (5 to 6K RPM repeatedly) is critical to seat the piston rings solidly.
It is VERY important to let the engine warm to full operating temp and then run the first few minutes at moderate loads as to let the tranny fluid temp to catch up as well. The tranny needs to seat and seal over the first 1000 miles/1600 km. This will produce a smooth, responsive and very tight engine that will stay that way. Still follow the recommended scheduled first oil/filter change and away you go.....
I'm not saying to go racing the first weekend but if you drive hard and smoothly through the gears right out of the gate you can expect to maintain top torque and HP numbers for the life of the engine. Follow the "recommended" break in and expect a 10 to 15 HP drop and for sure, lots of "cylinder blow by" in the years to come.
I have been breaking in engines (both high performance and stock) this way for years and its never let me down.
Mercedes and AMG program the ECU to be very forgiving with high tolerence for average drivers. ie: a non enthusiast that might not follow service schedules, might use low grade fuel and otherwise not take good care of the vehicle. This is why companies like Kleemann and Renntech can squeeze extra HP by chipping alone.
This also relates to the easy break-in outlined in the user manual. this breaks in the motor in a way that if the service schedule is not followed, poor grade fuel used or general abuse, there are pre existing tolerences in place to protect the motor.
"Spare the rod and spoil the child"
If you are an enthusiast, drive as you would normally right from the start. The first 40 Klm are the most important. Hard, steady acceleration in second and third gears to a high rev (5 to 6K RPM repeatedly) is critical to seat the piston rings solidly.
It is VERY important to let the engine warm to full operating temp and then run the first few minutes at moderate loads as to let the tranny fluid temp to catch up as well. The tranny needs to seat and seal over the first 1000 miles/1600 km. This will produce a smooth, responsive and very tight engine that will stay that way. Still follow the recommended scheduled first oil/filter change and away you go.....
I'm not saying to go racing the first weekend but if you drive hard and smoothly through the gears right out of the gate you can expect to maintain top torque and HP numbers for the life of the engine. Follow the "recommended" break in and expect a 10 to 15 HP drop and for sure, lots of "cylinder blow by" in the years to come.
I have been breaking in engines (both high performance and stock) this way for years and its never let me down.
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'05 C55
The E63 definitely seems a little quicker although the magazines say the C63 is just as fast or faster. You never know if the magazine test car was "tweaked" either. Only independent drag strip testing will prove that. The E63 was a great car but lacked the steering response, handling and improved braking feel the C63 exhibits. The E63 wins hands down if you're looking for a great smooth ride and all the power.
Personally, I would not go back to the E63 after getting exactly what I wanted in the C63. A serious performance 4-door sport sedan with very aggressive looks, extremely modern interior (with a REAL NAV system - FINALLY!!), and upgradable performance (hopefully soon).
If you have any questions about the car, I'll be happy to give you my opinion on it as I've had a few other AMG's to compare it to. 2 C55's (310 RWHP), an E55 (457 RWHP), an E63 (412 RWHP) and now the C63 at 380 RWHP.
#24
Just my two cents, but my first MOD on my C55 was to remove that "Break-in" window sticker!!
Mercedes and AMG program the ECU to be very forgiving with high tolerence for average drivers. ie: a non enthusiast that might not follow service schedules, might use low grade fuel and otherwise not take good care of the vehicle. This is why companies like Kleemann and Renntech can squeeze extra HP by chipping alone.
This also relates to the easy break-in outlined in the user manual. this breaks in the motor in a way that if the service schedule is not followed, poor grade fuel used or general abuse, there are pre existing tolerences in place to protect the motor.
"Spare the rod and spoil the child"
If you are an enthusiast, drive as you would normally right from the start. The first 40 Klm are the most important. Hard, steady acceleration in second and third gears to a high rev (5 to 6K RPM repeatedly) is critical to seat the piston rings solidly.
It is VERY important to let the engine warm to full operating temp and then run the first few minutes at moderate loads as to let the tranny fluid temp to catch up as well. The tranny needs to seat and seal over the first 1000 miles/1600 km. This will produce a smooth, responsive and very tight engine that will stay that way. Still follow the recommended scheduled first oil/filter change and away you go.....
I'm not saying to go racing the first weekend but if you drive hard and smoothly through the gears right out of the gate you can expect to maintain top torque and HP numbers for the life of the engine. Follow the "recommended" break in and expect a 10 to 15 HP drop and for sure, lots of "cylinder blow by" in the years to come.
I have been breaking in engines (both high performance and stock) this way for years and its never let me down.
Mercedes and AMG program the ECU to be very forgiving with high tolerence for average drivers. ie: a non enthusiast that might not follow service schedules, might use low grade fuel and otherwise not take good care of the vehicle. This is why companies like Kleemann and Renntech can squeeze extra HP by chipping alone.
This also relates to the easy break-in outlined in the user manual. this breaks in the motor in a way that if the service schedule is not followed, poor grade fuel used or general abuse, there are pre existing tolerences in place to protect the motor.
"Spare the rod and spoil the child"
If you are an enthusiast, drive as you would normally right from the start. The first 40 Klm are the most important. Hard, steady acceleration in second and third gears to a high rev (5 to 6K RPM repeatedly) is critical to seat the piston rings solidly.
It is VERY important to let the engine warm to full operating temp and then run the first few minutes at moderate loads as to let the tranny fluid temp to catch up as well. The tranny needs to seat and seal over the first 1000 miles/1600 km. This will produce a smooth, responsive and very tight engine that will stay that way. Still follow the recommended scheduled first oil/filter change and away you go.....
I'm not saying to go racing the first weekend but if you drive hard and smoothly through the gears right out of the gate you can expect to maintain top torque and HP numbers for the life of the engine. Follow the "recommended" break in and expect a 10 to 15 HP drop and for sure, lots of "cylinder blow by" in the years to come.
I have been breaking in engines (both high performance and stock) this way for years and its never let me down.
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'05 C55
Just my two cents, but my first MOD on my C55 was to remove that "Break-in" window sticker!!
Mercedes and AMG program the ECU to be very forgiving with high tolerence for average drivers. ie: a non enthusiast that might not follow service schedules, might use low grade fuel and otherwise not take good care of the vehicle. This is why companies like Kleemann and Renntech can squeeze extra HP by chipping alone.
This also relates to the easy break-in outlined in the user manual. this breaks in the motor in a way that if the service schedule is not followed, poor grade fuel used or general abuse, there are pre existing tolerences in place to protect the motor.
"Spare the rod and spoil the child"
If you are an enthusiast, drive as you would normally right from the start. The first 40 Klm are the most important. Hard, steady acceleration in second and third gears to a high rev (5 to 6K RPM repeatedly) is critical to seat the piston rings solidly.
It is VERY important to let the engine warm to full operating temp and then run the first few minutes at moderate loads as to let the tranny fluid temp to catch up as well. The tranny needs to seat and seal over the first 1000 miles/1600 km. This will produce a smooth, responsive and very tight engine that will stay that way. Still follow the recommended scheduled first oil/filter change and away you go.....
I'm not saying to go racing the first weekend but if you drive hard and smoothly through the gears right out of the gate you can expect to maintain top torque and HP numbers for the life of the engine. Follow the "recommended" break in and expect a 10 to 15 HP drop and for sure, lots of "cylinder blow by" in the years to come.
I have been breaking in engines (both high performance and stock) this way for years and its never let me down.
Mercedes and AMG program the ECU to be very forgiving with high tolerence for average drivers. ie: a non enthusiast that might not follow service schedules, might use low grade fuel and otherwise not take good care of the vehicle. This is why companies like Kleemann and Renntech can squeeze extra HP by chipping alone.
This also relates to the easy break-in outlined in the user manual. this breaks in the motor in a way that if the service schedule is not followed, poor grade fuel used or general abuse, there are pre existing tolerences in place to protect the motor.
"Spare the rod and spoil the child"
If you are an enthusiast, drive as you would normally right from the start. The first 40 Klm are the most important. Hard, steady acceleration in second and third gears to a high rev (5 to 6K RPM repeatedly) is critical to seat the piston rings solidly.
It is VERY important to let the engine warm to full operating temp and then run the first few minutes at moderate loads as to let the tranny fluid temp to catch up as well. The tranny needs to seat and seal over the first 1000 miles/1600 km. This will produce a smooth, responsive and very tight engine that will stay that way. Still follow the recommended scheduled first oil/filter change and away you go.....
I'm not saying to go racing the first weekend but if you drive hard and smoothly through the gears right out of the gate you can expect to maintain top torque and HP numbers for the life of the engine. Follow the "recommended" break in and expect a 10 to 15 HP drop and for sure, lots of "cylinder blow by" in the years to come.
I have been breaking in engines (both high performance and stock) this way for years and its never let me down.