New C63
Some credible sources believe that break-in should be 'vigorous' - better for the engine down the road. However, I am not an engineer, and your mileage may vary. Enjoy - nice car!
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Really, the break in should be vigorous??? Isnt the transmission intuitive and adaptive to the driving style? Im kinda nervous I may "dumb" down the transmission by driving it so light and "gingerly." What the professional opinions?
BTW, over the years I have quite a few performance cars, BMW 635 csi, a '94 ZR-1 vette, '95 Twin Turbo Toyota Supra, '00 M3, '03 911 cabriolet, '05 M3, then with Mercs, over the last 3 years, I've had an SL 500, ML 350 AMG Sport, E320 cdi (love the gas mileage!), CLS 550 and now the C63..... and lots of others easily forgotten..
Please don't take my word for it :P
Just read around this forum and you'll see some info from both camps. Some of the tuner companies do suggest the 'vigorous' strategy.
Enjoy the car!
Really, the break in should be vigorous??? Isnt the transmission intuitive and adaptive to the driving style? Im kinda nervous I may "dumb" down the transmission by driving it so light and "gingerly." What the professional opinions?
BTW, over the years I have quite a few performance cars, BMW 635 csi, a '94 ZR-1 vette, '95 Twin Turbo Toyota Supra, '00 M3, '03 911 cabriolet, '05 M3, then with Mercs, over the last 3 years, I've had an SL 500, ML 350 AMG Sport, E320 cdi (love the gas mileage!), CLS 550 and now the C63..... and lots of others easily forgotten..
Just my two cents, but my first MOD on my C55 was to remove that "Break-in" window sticker!!
Mercedes and AMG program the ECU to be very forgiving with high tolerence for average drivers. ie: a non enthusiast that might not follow service schedules, might use low grade fuel and otherwise not take good care of the vehicle. This is why companies like Kleemann and Renntech can squeeze extra HP by chipping alone.
This also relates to the easy break-in outlined in the user manual. this breaks in the motor in a way that if the service schedule is not followed, poor grade fuel used or general abuse, there are pre existing tolerences in place to protect the motor.
"Spare the rod and spoil the child"
If you are an enthusiast, drive as you would normally right from the start. The first 40 Klm are the most important. Hard, steady acceleration in second and third gears to a high rev (5 to 6K RPM repeatedly) is critical to seat the piston rings solidly.
It is VERY important to let the engine warm to full operating temp and then run the first few minutes at moderate loads as to let the tranny fluid temp to catch up as well. The tranny needs to seat and seal over the first 1000 miles/1600 km. This will produce a smooth, responsive and very tight engine that will stay that way. Still follow the recommended scheduled first oil/filter change and away you go.....
I'm not saying to go racing the first weekend but if you drive hard and smoothly through the gears right out of the gate you can expect to maintain top torque and HP numbers for the life of the engine. Follow the "recommended" break in and expect a 10 to 15 HP drop and for sure, lots of "cylinder blow by" in the years to come.
I have been breaking in engines (both high performance and stock) this way for years and its never let me down.
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057 Ipod Integration Kit $375
359 TeleAid $650
P02 Premium Package (bi-xenon headlights w/curve Illumination, Foglamps, headlamp washing system, power rear window sunshade) $1080
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Destination $825
Gas Guzzler Tax $2100
Total Retail Price $65,440.00!!!







