Stangar

I like the idea of changing my oil more often than the 13,000 miles I've heard.

I look underneath the C63 and don't have a clue as to how the front end could be lifted to change the oil unless you were to use drive on ramps. Does the c63 have an easy capability to utilize a four post lift. Do you need special pucks on the end of the lifting points like Corvettes?

Any insight to this question is greatly appreciated.

kjb55

Double check your manual - the C55 manual did not contain such information. ALSO - and this is important - make sure you determine if there are two drain plugs. If the oil pan drapes over the cross-member it is likely that there are two.

The front is lifted by the cross-member. In the center of the assembly you'll most likely see a black plastic support plate to use a low profile floor jack. You may also need a long reach low profile floor jack.

I've never been a fan of ramps, as I don't like the angle of the car.

A four post lift is a breeze - but I strongly recommend that you purchase these lift inserts from http://www.reverselogic.us/. It is an incredible product, same as the AMG factory uses. On the one occasion that the dealer had my car, I supplied these with the car and insisted that they use them.

The standard lifts used in dealers require very precise placement of the pads so that the body work and underbody isn't damaged. These inserts make it absolutely fool proof.

peet

Please post back - I'm with you.

Now that being said, I recall the C230 W203 had to use a top-sider. I bought one and used it - but this is a whole new design.

Stangar

Thanks, kjb55. You covered it all and I appreciate the info.

Eurosport

using a topsider is easiest

if you go for ramps, Rhino ramps work great

gsrjc

Doesn't the oil have to be syphoned (sp?) out of the engine instead of being drained? So the ramps wouldn't really help that much.

blownS

That's what I thought as well.

I used this on my E46 M3 for in-between service changes, and it was a breeze: http://www.mityvac.com/hq_images/07400.jpg.

I was told that many MB dealers use some variation of this for oil changes as well, but I could be wrong.

Stangar

Siphoned out? That never gets all the oil out. I've never heard of an engine that didn't have a drain plug(s).

Has anyone ever changed their own oil on a C63? If I actually have to have it siphoned out I won't be buying the car.

kjb55

The oil does NOT have to be siphoned out. This method was introduced merely as a cost / labor savings. When OEMs began offering paid maintenance programs that include oil changes - the less time the vehicle is in the bay the better. The siphon tube is usually introduced through the dipstick tube.

There are long posts debating which method is better, etc. etc. My reply is not intended to start that debate all over again.

It is simply a preference that beating gravity at its own game is pretty tough. In the case of the C55 motor that has two drain plugs - the siphon method does not reach 1.5 qts of oil. Again, I can't speak to the 63 motors with regards to how many drain plugs (but there is definitely a drain plug) or whether or not the siphon method reaches all the oil.

Furthermore - and all the better if you have access to a lift, doing a traditional oil change allows you to do an underbody inspection.

peet

Most importantly - although the car may now have a standard drain plug ... you think the dealer will use it? Why when then have been trained by the factory to use a topside mechanism. I'm going to have to baby sit to see - and while I don't have issue with a topside oil change - I'd like the crud dropped through the bottom from time to time.

P

norb

I use the topsider method and it actually gets more oil out than draining. Heck, even the oil filter is mounted on top just for that reason.

Stangar

. . . topsider method gets more oil out than draining?

I do not see how that would be possible considering the effect of gravity.

Maybe the car gets turned upside down? WooHooo! spare change!

LAZARU5

I was also a skeptic and very much doubted how well the Mityvac oil extractor worked. The first time I change the oil in my E500, I raised the front end using ramps, removed the plastic panels below the engine, loosened the oil drain plug, lowered the car back down so that it was level, removed the filter, extracted the oil from the dipstick tube, and then removed the drain plug. A very small amount of oil drained. About enough to form a 4-inch puddle in the bottom of an aluminum pan.

On my SLK350, I used the Mityvac to extract the oil and then weighed the oil in the Mityvac using an accurate Post Office scale. After deduction of the tare weight, I calculated that the amount of oil drained was about 4 ounces less than the 8 liter capacity. Considering that the early SLK350s were known to consume some oil, I figured that this was also a complete extraction of the oil.

I have had less success on other non-MB engines. In particular a 1997 Cadillac Northstar engine. I think I was only able to extract about 2/3 of the oil. Apparently the dipstick tube was not located over the lowest part of the oil pan.

One way that it might be possible to evacuate more than draining is if the draining is attempted when the car is not level. For example, with the front wheels on ramps. But if the car is level I think either approach will evacuate about the same amount of oil.

kjb55

Great information - however it's not just about how much oil is removed but which removal method is best for getting the oil out with all the junk suspended.

Once an engine is turned off, not only does the oil settle to the bottom, but the junk within the oil settles also. Changing oil at regular intervals, regardless of method, makes this mute point. But clearly not all owners are equal and this forum certainly surfaces the enthusiasts, DIYers and to some it might matter.

Which is to say, to the very picky, the drain method with the advantage of gravity and significance of flow does a better job of not only removing all the oil but in a way creating a washing effect as it does.

As opposed to a tube that just sucks from one very small area.

Again, the net effect with proper maintenance is worthless, which is why MB in addition to the cost factor, adopted the method of sucking.

peet

Now that I'm thinking about this again, I wonder if MB engineers actually dug a little trough in the bottom of the dipstick tube. This would allow a suction tube to go deeper than the bottom of the sump and actually get everthing out but the last drops at the bottom of the funnel shape leading to the drain plug!

Anyone care to cut their motor in half?

lomita

Does anyone have a shop manual? This is the way I begin my maintenance with a new car. I get my manuals on CD via Ebay occassionally.

norb

Let's put it this way, MB engineered the engine to be drained using the suction method. I'm sure they took into account all of these issues, I mean they are engineers.

lomita

How do you deduce your information. Do you have a shop manual? Are you a MB certified mechanic? Do you hands on with your MB?

norb

Umm, yea, go ask you dealership how they change the oil on any modern MB. Why do you think the filter is on top of the car?

ohlord

or mbusa.com service WIS dvd and yes the engine was designed as well as the last several years of mercedes engines for suction evacuation.Plug placement makes it very difficult to get the pan angled for proper drainage,park it on a level shop floor ,insert tube,turn on pump or hand pump if you went with the hand pump topsider or griots and it will suck all the oil out,that needs to come out.Proper fleece filter and mb spec oil mobil1 or others on the service sheet at the proper interval and you are not going to have any junk or gunk coming out your drain plug
Don't get the ebay wis most are pirated copies that will screw your computer,it is a huge amount of information.One day subscriptions to star info
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/ will give you direct access to Mercedes WIS,TSB and all data factory trained techs get and yes they do all use the suction evacuation method,to the W.A. above.
http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html
note the * on oils not to be used in AMG engines
fleece filters at autohausaz.com

norb

This is what I use...

Stangar

AAAARRGGHH!! This suction stuff is for pansies afraid to get a little dirty, use wrenches, and to provide a proper inspection to the underneath of the car. I've never heard of such.

I'm lower the covers and draining the oil using gravity as it has always meant to be.

I gotta get the car first! My rant is over and I'm joking with everyone so don't beat me up on the internet, . . .cause it always really hurts.

lomita

Thanks for answering my next question, where's the oil filter?

MB Fanatic

Old school mentality. Suction is the best way to go IMO, saves time, and it gets all the oil out. My uncle has an E320 with over 180K miles and the oil was always sucked out. Technology is a wonderful thing my friend.

LAZARU5

I have a set of Rhino ramps and find them much more easy to work with then metal ramps. However they are probably too steep for the C63. The front bumper is likely to hit the ramp before the tires do. I use RV leveler "ramps" that look like oversized Legos to get the front end of my MB cars high enough to get a floor jack under the engine cross member jack point.

Rhino ramps will probably work fine for the rear of the C63.