Longtube headers installed and dynoed
07-20-2009, 06:40 PM
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c63 amg
Longtube headers installed and dynoed
Hello Everyone.
Just installed my MHP long tube headers and ecu with v3 flash and went to the dyno after driving the car for 200 miles to brake-in the flash.
Some info before posting the graphs. the Lt fitment is good. it takes a day long time for a people who are not familiar with 63 engines for sure. I put the car to our MB station at 9 am and they was done at 9pm. they charged me 250usd in Ukraine here for install. the Lt fits good. almost no problem at all. all you need to do is remove some small parts from the car like one bar and some shiels and cut like 1/2inch of one middle fence on the drivers side. other then that it fits fine, I drove it a lot and it makes no hitting noice or what so ever.
Positive - it actually gives a lot of power!
Negative - the only I could think of is SOUND! Oh my god. my drag race 1000hp subaru makes about the same noise as this thing does. I mean below 3000rpm it is like stock. but above that - it sounds like a drag race evo. very loud. I am thinking of installing cats to make it quieter. I have no idea why it is like that. the resonator is in place and the rear canister are all stock. it just removes all the cats, and the car sounds crazy loud... I need to get used to it or install the cats back. loose some power but get some quieter car.
Before I went to the dyno I raced 460 whp toyota supra. we did a roll-on from 30 to 170mph twice. both times I beaten him by 5-8 car lengthes at the end. he missed a gear once but other then that my car is defenetelly faster then his, even compare weight supra is much less, like 400lbs less I guess. and it is Manual.
Anyhow here is the dyno pulls I did today. the temp was HOt. inside the dyno room we had almost 100F. the dyno is Dynodinamics which reads about 10% lower then the dynojet you usually use in USA. Here is the dyno pull with WHP and afr with Dynodynamics ATMo2 temp correction which requires the air temp sensor to be inserted into the intake tube.
this is concidered to be the most acurate and correct way to mesure the whp od dynodynamics.
Now here is the pull with dynodynamics SAE correction which reads much lower
We never use SAE on dynodynamics dynos but according to dynojet it should be 480-485 WHP on dynojet.
I was pleased of the way the AFR curve goes. it is perfect and streight. very nice afr tune.
how here is the dynodynamics conversion into the crank hp which they use 19%, but according to the info on the forum it should be more like 23%. so the crank hp should be more like 580-590 and the fly torque is 730 Nm.
and the last graph is the comparison of my car dynoed on this very same dyno while beeing stock, then with just v2 flash and now with Lt installed. see the results and afr curves.
as you can see it is 100whp from stock to now. and 40+ whp from tuned to Lts.
If you have any questions feel free to ask!
Just installed my MHP long tube headers and ecu with v3 flash and went to the dyno after driving the car for 200 miles to brake-in the flash.
Some info before posting the graphs. the Lt fitment is good. it takes a day long time for a people who are not familiar with 63 engines for sure. I put the car to our MB station at 9 am and they was done at 9pm. they charged me 250usd in Ukraine here for install. the Lt fits good. almost no problem at all. all you need to do is remove some small parts from the car like one bar and some shiels and cut like 1/2inch of one middle fence on the drivers side. other then that it fits fine, I drove it a lot and it makes no hitting noice or what so ever.
Positive - it actually gives a lot of power!
Negative - the only I could think of is SOUND! Oh my god. my drag race 1000hp subaru makes about the same noise as this thing does. I mean below 3000rpm it is like stock. but above that - it sounds like a drag race evo. very loud. I am thinking of installing cats to make it quieter. I have no idea why it is like that. the resonator is in place and the rear canister are all stock. it just removes all the cats, and the car sounds crazy loud... I need to get used to it or install the cats back. loose some power but get some quieter car.
Before I went to the dyno I raced 460 whp toyota supra. we did a roll-on from 30 to 170mph twice. both times I beaten him by 5-8 car lengthes at the end. he missed a gear once but other then that my car is defenetelly faster then his, even compare weight supra is much less, like 400lbs less I guess. and it is Manual.
Anyhow here is the dyno pulls I did today. the temp was HOt. inside the dyno room we had almost 100F. the dyno is Dynodinamics which reads about 10% lower then the dynojet you usually use in USA. Here is the dyno pull with WHP and afr with Dynodynamics ATMo2 temp correction which requires the air temp sensor to be inserted into the intake tube.
this is concidered to be the most acurate and correct way to mesure the whp od dynodynamics.
Now here is the pull with dynodynamics SAE correction which reads much lower
We never use SAE on dynodynamics dynos but according to dynojet it should be 480-485 WHP on dynojet.
I was pleased of the way the AFR curve goes. it is perfect and streight. very nice afr tune.
how here is the dynodynamics conversion into the crank hp which they use 19%, but according to the info on the forum it should be more like 23%. so the crank hp should be more like 580-590 and the fly torque is 730 Nm.
and the last graph is the comparison of my car dynoed on this very same dyno while beeing stock, then with just v2 flash and now with Lt installed. see the results and afr curves.
as you can see it is 100whp from stock to now. and 40+ whp from tuned to Lts.
If you have any questions feel free to ask!
Last edited by c63ukraine; 07-20-2009 at 06:43 PM.
07-20-2009, 10:39 PM
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2014 Audi RS7
Awesome numbers!!
The fact is that its correct. These L/T headers and no cats are worth 40-50rwhp. Thats incredible!! Congrats to MHP for a job well done!!
I understand they are only making 25 sets so if you have an interest you need to get your name on the list.
The fact is that its correct. These L/T headers and no cats are worth 40-50rwhp. Thats incredible!! Congrats to MHP for a job well done!!
I understand they are only making 25 sets so if you have an interest you need to get your name on the list.
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07-21-2009, 06:44 AM
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c63 amg
I hope one day I can go 1/4 mile less then 12 sec here. you see in here we do not have tracks with glue on it, so launching it is impossible. my 60 feet time is 2.9 sec-3.1 sec on Mt drag radials like you have and I have NO IDEA what should I do to lower those((( this is crazy! Give me some advice on how to launch this thing!
07-21-2009, 08:14 AM
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2014 Audi RS7
C63ukraine - All I can say is M/T drag radials, 18-20 pounds of air and a decent burn out. Then you should be able to get a good launch. DO NOT preload the converter. Leave from about 1,000 rpm's. Hold the brake until you floor it. Let the rpm's start to run up, then release the brake. It takes practice but thats how I have gotten the best 60' times with this car. Good luck and be safe!! Car should run low 11's in good weather and track conditions now.
07-21-2009, 10:54 AM
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2008 C63 AMG
@ Dads C63
Please forgive my ignorance.
18 pound is 1.2 bar, correct?
What do you mean by do not preload the converter?
Are you saying, hold the brake from about 1000rpm, when lights go off,
floor the accelerator all the way then release your brake?
Dou you change drag in Sport mode (D1) or manual, if manual what revs are you changin at?
Please forgive my ignorance.
18 pound is 1.2 bar, correct?
What do you mean by do not preload the converter?
Are you saying, hold the brake from about 1000rpm, when lights go off,
floor the accelerator all the way then release your brake?
Dou you change drag in Sport mode (D1) or manual, if manual what revs are you changin at?
08-30-2009, 05:24 PM
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I don't believe you are pulling a 2.9 to 3.0 sec 60'. The C63 AMG should be pulling at worst like a 2.1 and at best at around 1.9 or 2.0 sec.
A set of BF Goodrich street drag radials T/A or T/A II should cut your 60's by a few tenths.
A set of BF Goodrich street drag radials T/A or T/A II should cut your 60's by a few tenths.
