BerBer63

Hey guys got two questions I couldn't find the answer to.

1. Most recently I feel as if my steering wheel is about 10% looser (more laxity in the steering ratio compared to the turning response). This happened after I was getting some work done on my car and the guy was backing it out of a tight spot so he jacked the steering wheel all the way and the tires started vibrating as if they were sticking to the concrete floor. Basically their was a counterforce or friction to the steering component. Could that have done it and is there any fix to tighten things up?

2. I'm getting coilovers installed this weekend and having alignment done - I saw camber should be set to -1.5 to -2.5 approximately and that the front wheels should have a higher camber or at least equal to the rear wheels? What about the other factory settings like toe,etc. Should I just trust the alignment shop and will the steering laxity be corrected with an alignment?

Thanks in advance.

nrgy

I don't have my alignment readout with me, but after I had my car lowered with coilovers, the camber was apprx. -2.0 all around. And so far, after 6k miles with this setup, the tire wear has been even. Not to mention the stance looks awesome! I had a race shop install my coilovers and do the alignment, so I just put my trust in their experience and it paid off.

TTMotorsports

BAD *** stance on your 63 bro!!

BerBer63

?

-michael-

Please elaborate? Why is it so BAD ***?

+1

TTMotorsports

BAD *** in a good way! The KW V3 is the way to go. That is how you get the stance to look that uniform from front to back!

Look at the car. The stance is AWESOME!

What was so hard to understand?

BerBer63

How do you adjust the camber on our cars, the tech said you can't just the toe which I thought was BS, so all they did was mess with the toe and camber was unchanged. Here are the settings, I'm not even sure they brought up w204/c-class specifications or C63 settings because it says "Mercedes-Benz, 2009, 204, (X) GLK-model, Europe/USA, Standard Suspension." Why is the rear tire camber specifications greater than the front, I thought it should be the opposite and how can it be adjusted so I could point it to them.

Front Tire L/R
Camber -1.1/-1.3 (Specification Min/Max = -0.8/-0.1)
Toe 0.05/0.05 (Specification Min/Max = 0.0/0.15)

Rear Tire L/R
Camber -1.6/-1.6 (Specification Min/Max = -1.9/-0.9)
Toe 0.20/0.45 (Specification --/--)

nrgy

Unfortunately I do not have my alignment printout anymore, as I must've thrown it out accidently But regarding the camber, did you lower your car at all or keep it the stock height? I believe lowering the car adds negative camber, and depending on how much you lower it the more or less you will have.

Does the rear sit a tad lower than the front? Maybe that's why the difference in camber. As I posted earlier, I do remember my camber being -2.0 and/or -2.1 on all four corners, but I am also lowered to just a finger gap between the tire and fender.

BerBer63

Yea, it's lowered .75in front / 0.60in rear roughly, so the car sits about even bc the front almost seemed a little higher than the rear prior.

hcetzneb

Your front has camber caster adjustment. You have to use camber/caster bolts. The give you about 30min in +/-.

They should of set it up for sport suspension. But with your 1.1 and 1.3 you have acouple options you could go to the conservitive side and bring the 1.3 closer to 1.1

Or you can go more aggresive and bring the 1.1 closer to 1.3 the more negitive and toe in the faster tire wear.

In the rear they messed up on the toe with .20 and .45 your cross toe is probably off if those were more balanced you will gain so stability in the rear

BerBer63

Well I knew they were retards, anyone have a picture of the bolt or a description so I can point it out to them how to adjust the front camber. I was hoping to bring my front camber closer to -2 actually.

And they actually didn't touch the rear adjustment at all.

nrgy

Hmm, well I guess that would explain why I have more negative camber as if I recall mine is around 1.125" lowered all around. I also thought the front looked higher than the rear, but I think the car was just playing tricks with my eyes.

I'm definitely not an expert when it comes to suspension settings, but I think you will need to play with the ride height to get the desired camber you're after.

Edit: Looks like hcetzneb knows his stuff

hcetzneb

I can get you a part number tomorrow if you need. -2.0 is very neg. for the front , thats getting close to what track cars run. At that camber you will start noticing increased steering effert needed to turn the wheel. -1.5 is a good street setting... I lowered my car and brought it back to factory settings with camber bolts.

Why didnt they touch the rear ? They should of done the toe at least? There are no factory camber adjustments for the rear but the after market sells camber arms to bring it in

Belive my if you get a quality alignment and get the settings perfect front and rear for the style of driving you do the car will be much more enjoyable to drive.


Thanks bud..... Ive been working on them for to to long!!! Your -1.1 goal is right on

NORTH 44 C63

hcetzneb,

Thanks for the education on Alignment. Definitely not my forte....

I am taking mine in for a 4 wheel adjustment on Thursday. Sounds like there isn't much we can do with Camber settings without Bolt's in Front and Arms in the Rear. I too was looking to increase my Camber closer towards -2 (Could be misguided by my own misunderstanding of Camber in relation to cornering performance). My understanding is that the C63 stock is -1.5 all around but I could be wrong.

Any suggestions or things I should look out for on a C63 with P30??? I will be tracking (Road Course) about 10-12 times this summer and the car is my daily driver as well.

Any insight would be welcomed.

Thanks again!!

hcetzneb

Dont mention it im always happy to help
If you want i can get the exact spec tomorrow im not sure but off the top of my head i think its -1.1-1.5 in the front .... Lets put it this way i just corner weighted and aligned a race only m3 with -3.8 front ( not fun to drive around the parking lot) But if you were going for a street/track set up -2.0 would be perfect you can even do -2.5 and still drive it on the street... You just have to understand the relation if you drive alot on the street camber set at -2.5 will wear the tires fast.

With a coil over set up and camber/ caster alinment bolts -2.0 can be done..
but in the rear you will def. need a ajustable camber bar.

NORTH 44 C63

Thanks . True spec's would be helpful going for Thursdays set up.