A 2010 C63 AMG P31 Palladium Silver is _mine_!
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From: Relocated
2010 Irridium Silver MB C63 AMG Sedan
...."Hi this is Tom with Pizza Hut for a large supreme pizza with bread sticks and an order of wings to be delivered to a CEK. We just wanted to confirm your address to ensure delivery...would you mind repeating that address once again for us...?" 
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From: Bellevue, WA
'10 C63 AMG P31, '88 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe, '78 Toyota FJ40, '10 Audi Q7 TDi
Here's the C63 on the lift. I still need to get a jack setup that will allow me to lift the car on the lift to remove wheels. My bottle jack is too heavy duty and thus too tall; I'll have to get a lesser one. The one I have is 12,000 pounds capacity!
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From: Bellevue, WA
'10 C63 AMG P31, '88 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe, '78 Toyota FJ40, '10 Audi Q7 TDi
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Bellevue, WA
'10 C63 AMG P31, '88 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe, '78 Toyota FJ40, '10 Audi Q7 TDi
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From: DFW
C63 AMG Coupe P31
Nice cek!!!!!!
I have the same car/color and those gunmetal wheels look much better than the mat black. Ive been working on my blueprint for my build for weeks and the wheels have been the toughest part to decide. You have inspired me to put the forgestars in gunmetal grey tied at the top of my list with ADV1-10's and Forgeline's. Damn you for making this a harder decision
I have the same car/color and those gunmetal wheels look much better than the mat black. Ive been working on my blueprint for my build for weeks and the wheels have been the toughest part to decide. You have inspired me to put the forgestars in gunmetal grey tied at the top of my list with ADV1-10's and Forgeline's. Damn you for making this a harder decision
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From: Central Valley,CA
'16 Lexus GS F '18 M5
I think the gunmetal looks much better than the matte black! You still happy with the ET40/ET55 set up? Any issues? Seems lots of people are using different offsets with these wheels
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From: Bellevue, WA
'10 C63 AMG P31, '88 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe, '78 Toyota FJ40, '10 Audi Q7 TDi
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 258
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From: Bellevue, WA
'10 C63 AMG P31, '88 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe, '78 Toyota FJ40, '10 Audi Q7 TDi
Update: I blacked out the window trim (and trunk chrome strip) using 3M 471 black vinyl tape:
I spent $37 (here, on amazon.com) and about 2 hours labor doing this. Because it's just vinyl tape it's easily removable.
I like the grill chrome, so I'm leaving it that way. I did the windows and the chrome strip on the trunk.
The car is kinda dirty in these shots. Sorry. Sue me.
Hope this helps.
I spent $37 (here, on amazon.com) and about 2 hours labor doing this. Because it's just vinyl tape it's easily removable.
I like the grill chrome, so I'm leaving it that way. I did the windows and the chrome strip on the trunk.
The car is kinda dirty in these shots. Sorry. Sue me.
Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 258
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From: Bellevue, WA
'10 C63 AMG P31, '88 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe, '78 Toyota FJ40, '10 Audi Q7 TDi
With sticky side facing up, slide it under the lower part of the trim. There's a gap between the trim and the painted surface of the door that's just wide enough for the tape to fit through. Use a sawing motion R/L to get it in place. On one door, I had to pry the trim up just a tad in one spot.
Once you do this the piece of tape will be sitting in place, sticky side up.
Carefully start rolling the tape up to cover the chrome. Do about 2mm at a time, going the length of the door. Eventually you'll have the tape laid down bottom to top on the trim, covering even the rubber seal and part of your window.
Now the tricky part: Use your fingernail to GENTLY crease the tape where the rubber seal meets the chrome. The rubber seal does not actually go on top of the chrome piece, but abuts it. I ran my fingernail back and forth GENTLY until I could see and feel that line where the rubber meets chrome.
Now using a nylon tool for removing trim, or some other relatively sharp, but soft edged tool and press that crease in a little deeper. You don't want to press so hard you tear the tape just enough to really make the crease crisp.
Now get your Xacto knife and carefully cut the crease.
Tada! A perfect tape cut!
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Thanks so much for the detailed instruction. I will give it a try!
Start with a length of tape the length of the strip.
With sticky side facing up, slide it under the lower part of the trim. There's a gap between the trim and the painted surface of the door that's just wide enough for the tape to fit through. Use a sawing motion R/L to get it in place. On one door, I had to pry the trim up just a tad in one spot.
Once you do this the piece of tape will be sitting in place, sticky side up.
Carefully start rolling the tape up to cover the chrome. Do about 2mm at a time, going the length of the door. Eventually you'll have the tape laid down bottom to top on the trim, covering even the rubber seal and part of your window.
Now the tricky part: Use your fingernail to GENTLY crease the tape where the rubber seal meets the chrome. The rubber seal does not actually go on top of the chrome piece, but abuts it. I ran my fingernail back and forth GENTLY until I could see and feel that line where the rubber meets chrome.
Now using a nylon tool for removing trim, or some other relatively sharp, but soft edged tool and press that crease in a little deeper. You don't want to press so hard you tear the tape just enough to really make the crease crisp.
Now get your Xacto knife and carefully cut the crease.
Tada! A perfect tape cut!
With sticky side facing up, slide it under the lower part of the trim. There's a gap between the trim and the painted surface of the door that's just wide enough for the tape to fit through. Use a sawing motion R/L to get it in place. On one door, I had to pry the trim up just a tad in one spot.
Once you do this the piece of tape will be sitting in place, sticky side up.
Carefully start rolling the tape up to cover the chrome. Do about 2mm at a time, going the length of the door. Eventually you'll have the tape laid down bottom to top on the trim, covering even the rubber seal and part of your window.
Now the tricky part: Use your fingernail to GENTLY crease the tape where the rubber seal meets the chrome. The rubber seal does not actually go on top of the chrome piece, but abuts it. I ran my fingernail back and forth GENTLY until I could see and feel that line where the rubber meets chrome.
Now using a nylon tool for removing trim, or some other relatively sharp, but soft edged tool and press that crease in a little deeper. You don't want to press so hard you tear the tape just enough to really make the crease crisp.
Now get your Xacto knife and carefully cut the crease.
Tada! A perfect tape cut!
