Help!! Rubbing issues on 285/25/20
05-22-2010, 09:31 AM
#27
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C63 AMG, BMW 135i
I am using 20x9.5 +50 285/25/20 Michelin PS2 on the rear.
The car is rubbing like crazy on the right hand size. Left rear has much less issues. I cannot find someone who is competent enough to roll the fender for me. I was told it is not only the problem of the rear fender but the rear bumper is hitting also. Do you think the problem would go away if I change the rear tyres to 275/25/20?
The car is rubbing like crazy on the right hand size. Left rear has much less issues. I cannot find someone who is competent enough to roll the fender for me. I was told it is not only the problem of the rear fender but the rear bumper is hitting also. Do you think the problem would go away if I change the rear tyres to 275/25/20?
I run the same brand and design as your rims except they are 20x10 on the rear. They arrived with HRE’s offset of ET51 and I have 285/25/20 tyres installed.
Your offset is too aggressive, as was mine.
If you were promised a no issues fit, maybe the seller should arrange for HRE to adjust the offset at no cost to you.
My experience with this design only and in my opinion and it is only my opinion, an offset on 20x10 of ET56 is perfect. A 20x9.5 would be a little different but something close should work. It would require measuring up the rims, outer and inner fenders and the brake callipers to ascertain the correct offset before a change is made.
PM sent with a relatively cheap fix I had done. I now have no more rubbing issues and continue to use 285/25/20’s.
Bye the way, I use Yokohama Advan Sport with nice grip properties and a speed rating in excess of 300km/h (185m/h). I don’t know how they compare for width with the Michelin PS2 but the wear life has been good.
I think this has been posted before but here is a good offset calculator which may help some members when measuring up.
http://1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
.
05-22-2010, 11:30 AM
#28
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c63
I run the same brand and design as your rims except they are 20x10 on the rear. They arrived with HRE’s offset of ET51 and I have 285/25/20 tyres installed.
Your offset is too aggressive, as was mine.
If you were promised a no issues fit, maybe the seller should arrange for HRE to adjust the offset at no cost to you.
My experience with this design only and in my opinion and it is only my opinion, an offset on 20x10 of ET56 is perfect. A 20x9.5 would be a little different but something close should work. It would require measuring up the rims, outer and inner fenders and the brake callipers to ascertain the correct offset before a change is made.
PM sent with a relatively cheap fix I had done. I now have no more rubbing issues and continue to use 285/25/20’s.
Bye the way, I use Yokohama Advan Sport with nice grip properties and a speed rating in excess of 300km/h (185m/h). I don’t know how they compare for width with the Michelin PS2 but the wear life has been good.
I think this has been posted before but here is a good offset calculator which may help some members when measuring up.
http://1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
.
Your offset is too aggressive, as was mine.
If you were promised a no issues fit, maybe the seller should arrange for HRE to adjust the offset at no cost to you.
My experience with this design only and in my opinion and it is only my opinion, an offset on 20x10 of ET56 is perfect. A 20x9.5 would be a little different but something close should work. It would require measuring up the rims, outer and inner fenders and the brake callipers to ascertain the correct offset before a change is made.
PM sent with a relatively cheap fix I had done. I now have no more rubbing issues and continue to use 285/25/20’s.
Bye the way, I use Yokohama Advan Sport with nice grip properties and a speed rating in excess of 300km/h (185m/h). I don’t know how they compare for width with the Michelin PS2 but the wear life has been good.
I think this has been posted before but here is a good offset calculator which may help some members when measuring up.
http://1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
.
Much appreciated!!!
Since I am running 20x9.5 ET50. Do you think shaving 3mm or 4mm off the base plates should work right?
05-22-2010, 12:47 PM
#31
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C63 AMG, BMW 135i
Without seeing the vehicle it’s impossible to say if 3 to 4mm will be effective in curing your problem. There are often little discrepancies from car to car and your offset is slightly different to mine. To do the job properly, the outer edge of the rim lip needs to be in line with the inside of the fender lip to allow good tyre clearance.
The first thing you need to do is check how much clearance you have for your brake callipers. If you shave too much off the base plate you will cause the spokes on your centres to come in and touch/foul the calliper. Measure the distance between the back of the spokes and the face of the calliper, this will give you the maximum amount of material you can remove and then add 2 or 3mm to allow calliper clearance from the spokes.
Take calliper measurement and check how far it will bring the outer lip of the rim inwards in relation to the outer fender. What you are trying to determine is, will this allow the outer rim lip or more importantly the tyre edge to clear the inner lip of your outer fender. If you can clear the fender lip without using the full calliper measurement, all the better.
If the tyre clears the inner lip of the outer fender, you then need to check what effect bringing the rim in will have on your inner fender. You will need to do this while the vehicle is at its usual ride height. Jacking the car up will distort the wheel angle and give you a very bad measurement. I found it easiest to put the car on a ramp which allowed me to get under the vehicle while it maintained a level ride height. You will find the inner fender is made of a soft pliable felt like material and there is nothing behind it. Check for clearance issues with any auxiliary connections such as brake lines, fuel filler tube etc while you are under the car. Measure how far you can come in with the rim and see if this equals or exceeds the measurement you have taken to clear the brake callipers and outer fender lip. I found on my 20x10’s by taking 5mm off the base plate, I cleared on the outside and still had clearance on the inside. If there is a problem with clearing the inner fender, it’s easy to cut away a small amount of the felt material if you wish. You won’t hear the inside of the tyre rubbing on the felt but it will leave a rub mark. With my car I had enough clearance and found no auxiliary items were in the way.
Also as efx1 has pointed out, you can not take too much material away from the base plate at the expense of the bolt seats. This will cause the rim to crack at this these points and separate. My machinist checked the thickness of these seats before doing any other checks, he said this was the most important aspect of the job. The good thing about my HRE's was that this area was very thick and allowed the job to go ahead.
To shave the rims, you will need a designated wheel rim lathe. This will ensure accuracy and that the base plate is keep at a true angle. It took about an hour to do my 2 rims, neither suffered any damage or marks and for memory, it cost me about 15 Australian dollars per rim. Also check if you need to shorten the wheel bolts. The rim machinist can take a bit of material off them at the same time.
I hope this helps.
.
Last edited by sjhugh; 05-22-2010 at 01:09 PM.
05-22-2010, 01:08 PM
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997.2 Turbo
05-23-2010, 01:37 AM
#33
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2005 C55, 2006 Ram 2500 MegaCab diesel, sold 2001 Dodge 2500 Cummins, sold 87 190e-16v, sold 97 e420
I put 275 on the rear of my C55 after I was told by everyone that it would rub. Well it did. I had a local performance shop roll the wheel wells for $300 and it still rubbed and they didn't feel comfortable doing any more.
So I figured my own way. Get some sand bags or lots of dead weight, at least 300 lbs in trunk. Drive the car up on a single ramp until you acheive full compression. Take a feeler gauge around the tire to see where it binds. I found a spot at the front of the wheel arch that no-one else found that was the cause of my rubbing. A cheap sanding wheel from the local auto parts store and some undercoating and voila, no rust, no rubbing.
So I figured my own way. Get some sand bags or lots of dead weight, at least 300 lbs in trunk. Drive the car up on a single ramp until you acheive full compression. Take a feeler gauge around the tire to see where it binds. I found a spot at the front of the wheel arch that no-one else found that was the cause of my rubbing. A cheap sanding wheel from the local auto parts store and some undercoating and voila, no rust, no rubbing.
05-24-2010, 10:20 AM
#34
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www.wheelsboutique.com
Simon, we just got in the office and sent you an email of course well take care of any rubbing issues and have we emailed a u few options in which we can help you solve this . Thank you for you patience ! Yes 275/25/20 does exist and is one option and other options we will point out for you in the email. looking forward to hearing from you asap .Thanks again !
05-24-2010, 10:27 AM
#35
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11' R8 - 11' RR Sport
Having had over 6 sets of wheels on my C63...I know this for certain...with the rear differential on the car...it is possible it is shifted over a couple of MM to one side. I on occasion would get a slight rub. I did have the kwv3 on the car.
Speaking with Ben and crew at WB...we put on the Nitto Invo 275x25x20 tires on my HRE's..problem solved.
The tires does exist...I did run it on my modified c63 which had Kleeman full k2 package...I am also located in NY...where roads are an issue...but, this was the best set up for sure.
WB FTW.
Speaking with Ben and crew at WB...we put on the Nitto Invo 275x25x20 tires on my HRE's..problem solved.
The tires does exist...I did run it on my modified c63 which had Kleeman full k2 package...I am also located in NY...where roads are an issue...but, this was the best set up for sure.
WB FTW.
05-15-2018, 08:31 PM
#36
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C63 AMG 2014 W204
Hi. Need some help please
Without seeing the vehicle it’s impossible to say if 3 to 4mm will be effective in curing your problem. There are often little discrepancies from car to car and your offset is slightly different to mine. To do the job properly, the outer edge of the rim lip needs to be in line with the inside of the fender lip to allow good tyre clearance.
The first thing you need to do is check how much clearance you have for your brake callipers. If you shave too much off the base plate you will cause the spokes on your centres to come in and touch/foul the calliper. Measure the distance between the back of the spokes and the face of the calliper, this will give you the maximum amount of material you can remove and then add 2 or 3mm to allow calliper clearance from the spokes.
Take calliper measurement and check how far it will bring the outer lip of the rim inwards in relation to the outer fender. What you are trying to determine is, will this allow the outer rim lip or more importantly the tyre edge to clear the inner lip of your outer fender. If you can clear the fender lip without using the full calliper measurement, all the better.
If the tyre clears the inner lip of the outer fender, you then need to check what effect bringing the rim in will have on your inner fender. You will need to do this while the vehicle is at its usual ride height. Jacking the car up will distort the wheel angle and give you a very bad measurement. I found it easiest to put the car on a ramp which allowed me to get under the vehicle while it maintained a level ride height. You will find the inner fender is made of a soft pliable felt like material and there is nothing behind it. Check for clearance issues with any auxiliary connections such as brake lines, fuel filler tube etc while you are under the car. Measure how far you can come in with the rim and see if this equals or exceeds the measurement you have taken to clear the brake callipers and outer fender lip. I found on my 20x10’s by taking 5mm off the base plate, I cleared on the outside and still had clearance on the inside. If there is a problem with clearing the inner fender, it’s easy to cut away a small amount of the felt material if you wish. You won’t hear the inside of the tyre rubbing on the felt but it will leave a rub mark. With my car I had enough clearance and found no auxiliary items were in the way.
Also as efx1 has pointed out, you can not take too much material away from the base plate at the expense of the bolt seats. This will cause the rim to crack at this these points and separate. My machinist checked the thickness of these seats before doing any other checks, he said this was the most important aspect of the job. The good thing about my HRE's was that this area was very thick and allowed the job to go ahead.
To shave the rims, you will need a designated wheel rim lathe. This will ensure accuracy and that the base plate is keep at a true angle. It took about an hour to do my 2 rims, neither suffered any damage or marks and for memory, it cost me about 15 Australian dollars per rim. Also check if you need to shorten the wheel bolts. The rim machinist can take a bit of material off them at the same time.
I hope this helps.
.
The first thing you need to do is check how much clearance you have for your brake callipers. If you shave too much off the base plate you will cause the spokes on your centres to come in and touch/foul the calliper. Measure the distance between the back of the spokes and the face of the calliper, this will give you the maximum amount of material you can remove and then add 2 or 3mm to allow calliper clearance from the spokes.
Take calliper measurement and check how far it will bring the outer lip of the rim inwards in relation to the outer fender. What you are trying to determine is, will this allow the outer rim lip or more importantly the tyre edge to clear the inner lip of your outer fender. If you can clear the fender lip without using the full calliper measurement, all the better.
If the tyre clears the inner lip of the outer fender, you then need to check what effect bringing the rim in will have on your inner fender. You will need to do this while the vehicle is at its usual ride height. Jacking the car up will distort the wheel angle and give you a very bad measurement. I found it easiest to put the car on a ramp which allowed me to get under the vehicle while it maintained a level ride height. You will find the inner fender is made of a soft pliable felt like material and there is nothing behind it. Check for clearance issues with any auxiliary connections such as brake lines, fuel filler tube etc while you are under the car. Measure how far you can come in with the rim and see if this equals or exceeds the measurement you have taken to clear the brake callipers and outer fender lip. I found on my 20x10’s by taking 5mm off the base plate, I cleared on the outside and still had clearance on the inside. If there is a problem with clearing the inner fender, it’s easy to cut away a small amount of the felt material if you wish. You won’t hear the inside of the tyre rubbing on the felt but it will leave a rub mark. With my car I had enough clearance and found no auxiliary items were in the way.
Also as efx1 has pointed out, you can not take too much material away from the base plate at the expense of the bolt seats. This will cause the rim to crack at this these points and separate. My machinist checked the thickness of these seats before doing any other checks, he said this was the most important aspect of the job. The good thing about my HRE's was that this area was very thick and allowed the job to go ahead.
To shave the rims, you will need a designated wheel rim lathe. This will ensure accuracy and that the base plate is keep at a true angle. It took about an hour to do my 2 rims, neither suffered any damage or marks and for memory, it cost me about 15 Australian dollars per rim. Also check if you need to shorten the wheel bolts. The rim machinist can take a bit of material off them at the same time.
I hope this helps.
.
I have a W204 2013 sedan lowered with KW V3'. I want to buy 20x10 wheels ET 57. Can I get 265-30-20 inch wheels without any rubbing and without any work donde to the fenders??? Thanks
05-16-2018, 12:09 PM
#37
MBWorld Fanatic!
The problem here is that the W204 C63 wasn't designed for 20" wheels only 18"-19". But if you have the rights offset, sure 265/30-20 should fit without little issue. As for me, 19" would be the biggest would go, as with larger wheels you lose sidewall height, and this makes the car susceptible to bend wheels from potholes.
05-16-2018, 02:40 PM
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C63 AMG 2014 W204
Hi. Need some help please
The problem here is that the W204 C63 wasn't designed for 20" wheels only 18"-19". But if you have the rights offset, sure 265/30-20 should fit without little issue. As for me, 19" would be the biggest would go, as with larger wheels you lose sidewall height, and this makes the car susceptible to bend wheels from potholes.
