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QUICK GUIDE: how to fix brake vibrations after track use

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Old 07-18-2010, 09:53 PM
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Post QUICK GUIDE: how to fix brake vibrations after track use

Hey people,

I'd just like to give you guys a tip for the ones that track their cars or drive it hard. Some people had mentionned brake vibration issues here.

On my last day at Calabogie I got a lot of vibration from the front left brake. It was a very hot day so I wasn't sure what was going on. Fluid boiling, brake fading, disk spotting etc.

Tonight I took it upon myself to look into it.

Taking out the brakes pads:

1. 2 main pins hold a metal piece (brownish) that press/hold the pads in place. Take them out. I used the wooden part of a hammer to punch em, than a metal screw and a hammer that worked pretty good. Punch both out of the first hole before trying to completely pull them out, it's much easier. Remove the metal part as well holding down the pads.

2. The big center metal bolt seems to be there as back up. Unscrew with a 13mm socket. If you have any wires, unplug them.

3. The pads needs to be pushed from the inside of the disk to slide out. Make sure to push on both ends evenly, it's pretty tight.

After taking out the brake pads, I noticed they were cooked. I had seen it before on my honda. Black spots appear on the pad and the pad will have a very smooth finish. If you've seen regular pads before, they have a grainy finish on them, not smooth.

What happened is that the disk got so hot it melted the surface of the pad.

You can fix this with a very hard grain sanding paper. Rub the pad to remove all black spots and get some of the grain back (try to rub as evenly as possible).

To reinstall the pads, just slide them back in (easy) but the 2 small metal pins are super hard to put back with the metal part holding the pads. The trick I found is to put both at the same time almost all the way to the end, and then do one at a time from there. The first one (whichever it is), is always easier to put in. Once this is done you can put back the big metal bolt and reconnect wires if needed.

Voilà, braking like new and no more vibrations.


The good thing about this sanding method is that the problem is fixed.

The bad thing is that pads that have been cooked usually don't last that long and can potentially crack. Still they should not give you any issues for regular road use. The good thing about the C63 is that the pads are huge, so they are less likely to crack than small/thin pads.

The best thing is to check your brake pads after each event (just a quick look) and take em out for inspection when you feel they are not at their best.

Also if your disks are spotted, you have to get new ones, this will only fix this common pad issue.

take care

Last edited by chief63; 07-18-2010 at 09:59 PM.
Old 07-19-2010, 12:37 AM
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Are you using stock pads? Do you access that 13mm center bolt from the backside of the caliper? I just may replace my stock pads with some EBC Reds. I hate having to wash off that brake dust so often.

Last edited by Sincity; 07-19-2010 at 12:42 AM.
Old 07-19-2010, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Sincity
Are you using stock pads? Do you access that 13mm center bolt from the backside of the caliper? I just may replace my stock pads with some EBC Reds. I hate having to wash off that brake dust so often.
Following evosport's recommandation with 2 piece rotors, I am using C63/CLK63 pads in the front and CLK63 pads in the back. If I had to do it again I would try Carbotech XP8 or XP10 pads or PFC pads (have to check to see if PFC carries our size) but they are very expensive. Not sure if EBC reds are good enough. I know evosport told me expressively not to use them with the rotors.

The 13mm center bolt is on the inside of the caliper and pretty easy to access.

Last edited by chief63; 07-19-2010 at 02:33 PM.
Old 07-19-2010, 11:11 AM
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Thanks for the great info, Chief.
Old 07-19-2010, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by chief63
Not sure if EBC reds are good enough. I know evosport told me expressively not to use them with the rotors.

The 13mm center bolt is on the inside of the caliper and pretty easy to access.
That sux....I was hoping to have a decent pad and doesn't give off much dust. Was the recommendaion based on the car being tracked?
Old 07-19-2010, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Sincity
That sux....I was hoping to have a decent pad and doesn't give off much dust. Was the recommendaion based on the car being tracked?
Just a general recommandation that their disks do not go well with EBC pads. Don't know anymore than that! I have also heard from other sources to avoid EBC. Maybe try Pagid?

Thanks for the great info, Chief.
You're welcome.
Old 07-19-2010, 11:51 AM
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Thanks Chief.
Old 07-19-2010, 12:30 PM
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Great write up Chief.

I have 3 track days on my pads and the fronts are toast (Pulled them this morning) Rears....I think I can get another 2 or 3 Track days on them. Rotors are still in pretty good shape with only some minor grooving on the fronts. New Front pads for me...Going OEM again as I cannot find a worthy replacement. Let me know if you find any alternatives...

Last edited by NORTH 44 C63; 07-19-2010 at 02:02 PM.
Old 07-19-2010, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by NORTH 44 C63
Great write up Chief.

I have 3 track days on my pads and the fronts are toast (Pulled them this morning) Rears....I think I can get another 2 or 3 Track days on them. Rotors are still in pretty good shape with only some minor grooving on the fronts. New Front pads for me...Going OEM again as I cannot find a worthy replacement. Let me know if you find any alternatives...
I'm confused I was talking about Pagid but I meant Carbotech. I'd love you to try the XP8 or XP10 compound. They are supposed to be great!

Here is the link to their website: http://www.ctbrakes.com

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