jstefanop

iTrader: (1)

I was looking over the maintenance booklet because I refuse to pay 400 bucks per visit for them to change the oil and "check" stuff. Surprisingly I cannot find an interval for the coolant change. The only thing that is mentioned is to check coolant level.

Is this supposed to be changed at the discretion of the dealer? I usually change my engine coolant on other cars every two years. Want to make sure the coolant system is not any different in this car that it does not need to be flushed at all?

Thanks!

bhamg

IIRC the radiator in the C63 has an "anode" that dissolves slowly to replenish the additives used up over time. Since the base coolant itself has a long life my guess is the OE is easily capable of a 5 year+ service life but my plan always has been to change it at 4 years or 50k miles, whichever comes first. In my M cars I use a bottle of Motul MoCool but decided I didn't want to mess with the chemistry of this cooling system.

Mort

According to my MB 2010 Service Booklet the coolant change is Service 13 every 240000KM (150000 Miles) or 15 years.

Jon2007E63P30

You, sir, are correct. I can confirm.

Maverick1975

I got check coolant level warning and rang Mercedes road side assis to see of I should top up with a specific type of coolant and was advised to top up with tap water and take it to dealer as soon as possible and let them flush it totally and replace. "don't mix coolants" was advice I was given

Mort

It will only be down a little bit. It happens quite often on our R Class. I bought a jug of MB Coolant at the dealer and mix it 50/50 with water and just add a little when it goes low enough to get the sensor warning. I think it is total nonsense that they want to flush it. Even if you just added a little water to bring it back up to full it will be fine. I don't think I would mix coolants either but if you get ethylene glycol based coolant you should have no worries. Make sure it says it is aluminum compatible.

bhamg

The recommended service interval for the C63 got me interested in finding out a little more about the system...saw this:

Be sure to use the Mercedes-Benz coolant MB 325.1, as it is only slightly more expensive, but it is worth it. Dilute 50/50 with distilled water. Don’t use tap water if you can avoid it as water has dissolved ions, and hard water can cause precipitates with corrosion inhibitors such as phosphates. These are commonly used in many antifreeze products, causing deposits and decreased flow and heat transfer. Mercedes coolant is formulated without phosphates so hardness is less of a problem. Deionized water has sodium in it, while using distilled its preferable because it has negligible ion content.

Antifreeze corrosion inhibitors packages are not all alike and considering the cost of a radiator or engine it is cheap insurance to use the OEM formulation. Mercedes uses silicates and is formulated to protect the metals in the system, particularly aluminum. Additionally, brazes, plastics, and gaskets are also a consideration. If you mix two types of coolants equally, even if the second is a universal coolant, you just halved each corrosion inhibitor concentration causing neither to be adequate to protect the system. Universal coolants can be mixed with any type of coolant without immediate damage to the cooling system, but don't ignore the fact that you are reducing the long term protective benefits of both coolants if they are formulated differently, inviting long term damaging effects.

For the most part, vehicles 2002 and later specify a cooling flush every 15 years or 150,000 miles. Mercedes 2001 and earlier are every 3 years. There are exceptions in the transition years. Later production vehicles with 15/150 service interval have a silica gel packet in the coolant reservoir that constantly replenishes the silicate concentration in the Mercedes Benz coolant helping to promote the long life. If you top off with another type of coolant such as OAT (organic acid) or phosphate based you are contaminating the factory coolant system. Ignore color when trying to differentiate coolants, as these are added dyes and don't indicate anything specific about the components. Coolants compatible with MB coolant would be typically labeled G-05. Consider how unfortunate it would be to have to replace the aluminum heater core if it started leaking. Although uncommon, when it does occur it is usually the result of poor maintenance or ignoring the use of the correct coolants. The repair is costly and involves complete removal of the instrument panel to the firewall.

The silicate formulation in the MB coolant offers very quick protection of the water pump from cavitations’ damage, while OAT coolants are much slower to protect. When cavitations occur at high temperatures under load the fluid boils in low pressure areas generated by the pump blades. When these bubbles collapse under pressure they cause tiny shock waves that blow the oxide coating off the metal. The metal can then erode and corrode since it is unprotected, causing the silicates to quickly form a coating that protects the metal and heals quickly if damaged by cavitations. The benefits of using the factory coolant make a long list; it is worth the small added cost. Regardless of the vehicle brand, it is always best to use the OE specified coolant and follow the manufacturer guidelines for dilution.

jvanbrecht

I'm a little worried now...

I have one occasion (when I was in a rush heading out to PA or NY.. okay twice because of poor planning), taken my car into a quick lube place.. and they have a tendency to fill up all the liquids (including coolant).... with that crap they have in bulk.. I'm almost positive they added coolant... Wondering if I should get the coolant flushed by MB now.. and how much it would cost.. I am guessing this is not a DIY solution (I have already done my own brake fluid change, oil, etc)...

Yuille36

oops,

Your mistaken in saying 15 years.

Yuille36

I change mind every 3 years, regardless of miles driven, despite what Mercedes says. I think that is a good rule of thumb.

jvanbrecht

What is the cost? DIY, Dealer only.. details.. we need more... okay... I need more..

Mort

That is not what I say but what MB says......I know it sounds like a really long time.

Yuille36

jvanbrecht,

I'll have to check my invoice but it was reasonable. I think it was maybe $80 at Benz Elite Automotive in Alexandria. Keep in mind that this was a complete presurrized coolant flush and fill, as this gets all the coolant out of the motor. Give them a call at 703-370-1221. Their address is 4556 Eisenhower Ave, Alexandria, VA 22304 I can tell you this, anytime my car needs work done, I take it here before the dealer. I know these guys personally, and their Mercedes trained technicians from American Service Center in Arlington.

1guitar

I have W212 2010 E350 sedan 3.5 liter engine and in my manual the recommend interval between anti-freeze changes is 5 years with a reminder to mix the MB brand anti-freeze with 50% distilled water and 50% MB brand anti-freeze. To me it's always a toss up between who knows less, the MB dealers mechanics, MB corporate or the owners, in this case, the owners win.

entropy0321

Brought this up in another thread but thought I'd try it here since it seems more relevant. My C250 has blue coolant in it already... I bought some more antifreeze from the dealership a few days ago but they changed the color to red. Is it safe to mix the two or should I do a coolant flush? Car only has 43000 miles on it.

MBArne

I still got the "Tap up Coolant" orange warning light after I tapped it up.. It seems to be at the right level now.
Do I need to reset the fault code at the dealer, or should it go away automatically?
S500 5,5l 2006 model.

Thanks!

Mort

I think the code should go away once you top it up. Maybe you didn't add enough or you might have a bad sensor. Get the code read and go from there.

Alex.currie44

My 2013 says the same.
Worry more about doing brake fluid on time.