180F Thermostat and Thermal intake gasket worth it?
#26
Senior Member
So bringing up this thread for some more discussion- I was lurking on the whipple website when i saw they offer 160*F thermostats for Gt500s and hellcats. Got me thinking again, when i had longtubes my temps were around 197*F and would go upto 214-217 after hard runs (specifically in the florida summer). This summer, after the supercharger and all, my car always lingers in that 212*F range but rarely goes over 220*F unless I'm doing some hard pulls, but will almost immediately go back down to 212-214.
A quick google search led me to this site, perhaps an alternative to the mhp piece- https://www.mishimoto.com/mercedes-b...2008-2012.html
good price alternative to the mhp unit which is $400 whereas this is $60.
Looking for some input, if its even worth changing the oem thermostat or if will make a difference, and reliability as well especially since i have the blower now. i don't mind my car being the guinea pig for this experiment!
A quick google search led me to this site, perhaps an alternative to the mhp piece- https://www.mishimoto.com/mercedes-b...2008-2012.html
good price alternative to the mhp unit which is $400 whereas this is $60.
Looking for some input, if its even worth changing the oem thermostat or if will make a difference, and reliability as well especially since i have the blower now. i don't mind my car being the guinea pig for this experiment!
Last edited by akmatic63; 08-19-2016 at 11:52 PM.
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BLKROKT (08-20-2016)
#27
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2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
So funny, I just came across that last week but lost the link - thanks for posting. I'm going to pull the trigger on it, can't hurt.
Was also thinking about the placement of the IAT sensor, which is currently on the back of the intake. I'm about to take off my intake manifold and finally put on the Sikky phenolic gaskets I've had sitting here for 6mo - hopefully this weekend if I can find the time. One of the early MHP posts on the C63 upgrade path had a stage with relocation of this sensor to the intake air snorkels. The reasoning is that the air is hot by the time it gets to the OE placement, and moving it up front will register cooler temps and run a richer AFR and advanced timing. Wondering if anyone has had any success doing this?
Was also thinking about the placement of the IAT sensor, which is currently on the back of the intake. I'm about to take off my intake manifold and finally put on the Sikky phenolic gaskets I've had sitting here for 6mo - hopefully this weekend if I can find the time. One of the early MHP posts on the C63 upgrade path had a stage with relocation of this sensor to the intake air snorkels. The reasoning is that the air is hot by the time it gets to the OE placement, and moving it up front will register cooler temps and run a richer AFR and advanced timing. Wondering if anyone has had any success doing this?
#28
Senior Member
np! I most likely will to. It does say for install, it needs the stock mb housing- "Note The installation of this thermostat requires the use of the Mercedes Benz 1562030475 housing." Im assuming the current one should be useable & Installation should be pretty straight forward.
#29
MBWorld Fanatic!
Nice find with the thermo stat, I was also interested in a thermostat
And yes I believe the thermostat is held into the housing with a spring clip so just remove it and replace with that t stat....keep us posted if you do run it
As far as moving the iat sensor to adjust the afr and timing why not just adjust the tune and if you are already tuned I would worry you may be run into some issues
And yes I believe the thermostat is held into the housing with a spring clip so just remove it and replace with that t stat....keep us posted if you do run it
As far as moving the iat sensor to adjust the afr and timing why not just adjust the tune and if you are already tuned I would worry you may be run into some issues
#30
Was also thinking about the placement of the IAT sensor, which is currently on the back of the intake. I'm about to take off my intake manifold and finally put on the Sikky phenolic gaskets I've had sitting here for 6mo - hopefully this weekend if I can find the time. One of the early MHP posts on the C63 upgrade path had a stage with relocation of this sensor to the intake air snorkels. The reasoning is that the air is hot by the time it gets to the OE placement, and moving it up front will register cooler temps and run a richer AFR and advanced timing. Wondering if anyone has had any success doing this?
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...elocation.html
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...maf-wires.html
#31
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2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
This was a very common mod for the BMW E39 M5 crowd. I don't see why it wouldn't work well on the C63. Don't know if this is useful to you:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...elocation.html
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...maf-wires.html
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...elocation.html
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...maf-wires.html
Ordered new t-stat and will get a new IAT sensor also. More projects yay.
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chrisridebike8 (08-20-2016)
#33
Senior Member
#34
Super Member
No thermal gasket is not worth it. Lower thermostat is not a bad idea if forced induction. Full aluminum radiator with 3 core & larger side tanks is better. However, that does not address the REAL issue...
80% of all under hood engine bay head comes from the exhaust manifold, 15% from radiator heat, 5% radiating off the engine itself.
All you have to do to drastically improve the cooling is get your headers ceramic coated... And I mean REAL ceramic coating, not that bull**** black paint that come with the most headers. That's just mismarketed gimmick ceramic based paint (which actually has no real heat insulating properties)
Jet Hott is decent but only blocks about half the heat, swaintech white lightening is by far the best coating on the market, and is so good roughly an inch off the headers is almost room temp.
Trying to isolate heat from the intake is a waste of time, solve the problem at the source (exhaust manifold)
80% of all under hood engine bay head comes from the exhaust manifold, 15% from radiator heat, 5% radiating off the engine itself.
All you have to do to drastically improve the cooling is get your headers ceramic coated... And I mean REAL ceramic coating, not that bull**** black paint that come with the most headers. That's just mismarketed gimmick ceramic based paint (which actually has no real heat insulating properties)
Jet Hott is decent but only blocks about half the heat, swaintech white lightening is by far the best coating on the market, and is so good roughly an inch off the headers is almost room temp.
Trying to isolate heat from the intake is a waste of time, solve the problem at the source (exhaust manifold)
Last edited by ML63 AMG; 08-20-2016 at 05:20 PM.
#35
#36
MBWorld Fanatic!
No thermal gasket is not worth it. Lower thermostat is not a bad idea if forced induction. Full aluminum radiator with 3 core & larger side tanks is better. However, that does not address the REAL issue...
80% of all under hood engine bay head comes from the exhaust manifold, 15% from radiator heat, 5% radiating off the engine itself.
All you have to do to drastically improve the cooling is get your headers ceramic coated... And I mean REAL ceramic coating, not that bull**** black paint that come with the most headers. That's just mismarketed gimmick ceramic based paint (which actually has no real heat insulating properties)
Jet Hott is decent but only blocks about half the heat, swaintech white lightening is by far the best coating on the market, and is so good roughly an inch off the headers is almost room temp.
Trying to isolate heat from the intake is a waste of time, solve the problem at the source (exhaust manifold)
80% of all under hood engine bay head comes from the exhaust manifold, 15% from radiator heat, 5% radiating off the engine itself.
All you have to do to drastically improve the cooling is get your headers ceramic coated... And I mean REAL ceramic coating, not that bull**** black paint that come with the most headers. That's just mismarketed gimmick ceramic based paint (which actually has no real heat insulating properties)
Jet Hott is decent but only blocks about half the heat, swaintech white lightening is by far the best coating on the market, and is so good roughly an inch off the headers is almost room temp.
Trying to isolate heat from the intake is a waste of time, solve the problem at the source (exhaust manifold)
Last edited by mthis; 08-21-2016 at 10:11 AM.
#37
Senior Member
Thermostat came in, sadly won't be able to do this anytime soon as i have other car issues (deadbolts and possible forged internals) to do first. Looks legit thou, i just hope reliability-wise it meets or exceeds OEM quality.
#38
MBWorld Fanatic!
Awesome find AK! Tried to order one, but says page not found?
Checked for our cars and they don't have MB listed
Checked for our cars and they don't have MB listed
Last edited by Kriston; 08-26-2016 at 10:56 PM.
#39
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2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Got mine in the mail today. Will go on with the 44O kit next week.
#40
Super Member
Do any of you guys running Long Tube Headers have them ceramic coated.
Interested to hear your opinions.
When my LTH arrive, I will definitely send them for ceramic coating before I install them.
Interested to hear your opinions.
When my LTH arrive, I will definitely send them for ceramic coating before I install them.
#41
Super Member
So funny, I just came across that last week but lost the link - thanks for posting. I'm going to pull the trigger on it, can't hurt.
Was also thinking about the placement of the IAT sensor, which is currently on the back of the intake. I'm about to take off my intake manifold and finally put on the Sikky phenolic gaskets I've had sitting here for 6mo - hopefully this weekend if I can find the time. One of the early MHP posts on the C63 upgrade path had a stage with relocation of this sensor to the intake air snorkels. The reasoning is that the air is hot by the time it gets to the OE placement, and moving it up front will register cooler temps and run a richer AFR and advanced timing. Wondering if anyone has had any success doing this?
Was also thinking about the placement of the IAT sensor, which is currently on the back of the intake. I'm about to take off my intake manifold and finally put on the Sikky phenolic gaskets I've had sitting here for 6mo - hopefully this weekend if I can find the time. One of the early MHP posts on the C63 upgrade path had a stage with relocation of this sensor to the intake air snorkels. The reasoning is that the air is hot by the time it gets to the OE placement, and moving it up front will register cooler temps and run a richer AFR and advanced timing. Wondering if anyone has had any success doing this?
I had full exhaust, cams, CNC ported heads etc.
I relocated the IAT sensor from the standard position to directly in the air flow stream at the front of the car. Using torque I noticed considerable drops in the IAT across the board.
At the drags, my car would suffer badly from heat soak and pull timing from standing in the que.
With the IAT relocation, I was not pulling timing after waiting in the que.
#42
Senior Member
#43
Senior Member
#44
How do I get one of these
Send me the. Link
Send me the. Link
#45
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C63 507 AMG DA Car #19
Be careful if you relocate the iat to no longer tell the ecu you have high temp intake charge.. The tune uses this to keep your engine out of detonation.
I would only do this if your tuner is aware.
I would only do this if your tuner is aware.
#46
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2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
#47
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#48
Senior Member
Awesome! Wonder if they will make more lol maybe if people here are interested they could arrange for more!
Also looks like you be getting yours put on way sooner, let us know how it is and if you notice temp changes with the tstat!
Also looks like you be getting yours put on way sooner, let us know how it is and if you notice temp changes with the tstat!
#49
there back online boys i just purchased one