How long for a DIY brake job?
09-30-2011, 06:43 PM
#1
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How long for a DIY brake job?
I see a few threads about how to do this, and as brake jobs go its pretty easy. None of the threads mention a time frame tho. How long for the average guy to do it in his garage do you think?
Just pads BTW
Just pads BTW
09-30-2011, 10:38 PM
#5
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09-30-2011, 10:39 PM
#6
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mthis - thats a pretty serious set-up you've got there. Very nice!
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09-30-2011, 10:53 PM
#8
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Tnx man, what i have set it up for is chasing 10's (plus i have to rep the MTHIS cant lose to M's J/k)
i hit 11.19@125 with just Tune/Headers/filter/DR so this should get me 10's no prob.
anyway the brake job u wanna do all you have to do it remove the pins on the caliper and the pad comes rite out,(well you have to pull them out) all for calipers have same pins so the hardest part to taking them off is taking the wheels off.
good luck if you need anything send me a pm
i did my brakes and rotors 2 months ago so my memory still fresh lol
i hit 11.19@125 with just Tune/Headers/filter/DR so this should get me 10's no prob.
anyway the brake job u wanna do all you have to do it remove the pins on the caliper and the pad comes rite out,(well you have to pull them out) all for calipers have same pins so the hardest part to taking them off is taking the wheels off.
good luck if you need anything send me a pm
i did my brakes and rotors 2 months ago so my memory still fresh lol
Last edited by mthis; 09-30-2011 at 10:59 PM.
10-01-2011, 02:36 PM
#10
If you've never done it before, I'd estimate 30 minutes per corner after the wheels come off. The reason why I say this, is you can encounter a seized pin, or get a pad stuck. For myself, it took me 30 minutes for the first corner, 15 for the second, 10 for the third, and then 1.5 hours for the fourth because a pin was stuck.
10-01-2011, 03:31 PM
#11
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Thanks Mthis and Muskoka.
Do you fellas know the stock thickness of pads and rotors when new, and when MB recommends service?
Or where I would find that kind of info? If I search pad thickness I get a link to the Kotex site
Do you fellas know the stock thickness of pads and rotors when new, and when MB recommends service?
Or where I would find that kind of info? If I search pad thickness I get a link to the Kotex site
10-01-2011, 03:47 PM
#12
One thing most people don't realize is we have sensors on the brake pads for when they are almost done. My dealership told me my rotors and pads needed to be replaced. By my estimation, I had 60% life left in my pads, and my rotors looked perfect. I got two more track days and 15k kms out of them before they "needed" replacing. Even then, could have pushed them longer without any issues.
10-02-2011, 01:26 AM
#14
Sorry, I'm not a huge help when it comes to MB recommended service. I say replace the rotors when you experience warping or cracking. Replace your pads when it looks like you have less than 5mm of pad thickness left.
One thing most people don't realize is we have sensors on the brake pads for when they are almost done. My dealership told me my rotors and pads needed to be replaced. By my estimation, I had 60% life left in my pads, and my rotors looked perfect. I got two more track days and 15k kms out of them before they "needed" replacing. Even then, could have pushed them longer without any issues.
One thing most people don't realize is we have sensors on the brake pads for when they are almost done. My dealership told me my rotors and pads needed to be replaced. By my estimation, I had 60% life left in my pads, and my rotors looked perfect. I got two more track days and 15k kms out of them before they "needed" replacing. Even then, could have pushed them longer without any issues.
I am in the same boat. Shop said I need new pads and rotors. I checked the rotors on the front tonight, 35mm. There is a lip on the outer diameter of the rotor the pad doesn't hit so I was able to measure the stock thickness, 36mm. So I'm down 1mm over 48000km and MB is saying I need new rotors lol. They are good until 33mm according to the stamp on the rotor. Ill be replacing the pads tomorrow and keeping these rotors, especially at 2600bucks or so for all 4 corners.
10-04-2011, 01:20 AM
#15
If you have not got experience and were not taught how to do brakes properly, you really ought to take it to a good shop. And you know it is a good idea to machine the rotors everytime you replace pads. This is a MB not some old POS. It's about doing the job right and not scabbing and cutting corners. This is what can make the difference in getting good braking and feel, preventing squeeling, etc.
10-04-2011, 01:24 AM
#16
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If you have not got experience and were not taught how to do brakes properly, you really ought to take it to a good shop. And you know it is a good idea to machine the rotors everytime you replace pads. This is a MB not some old POS. It's about doing the job right and not scabbing and cutting corners. This is what can make the difference in getting good braking and feel, preventing squeeling, etc.
10-04-2011, 04:59 PM
#17
I am not going to machine the rotors. Ideally they should be resurfaced, but I don't want to grind away any precious rotor surface. The rotors still feel smooth and shown no signs of warping.
Ill be the test dummy and let you guys know how just throwing on new pads work with regards to sound and performance.
Ill be the test dummy and let you guys know how just throwing on new pads work with regards to sound and performance.
10-04-2011, 05:04 PM
#18
I threw on pads on the old rotors, and they worked perfectly. I am not going to machine the rotors every time I put new pads on. I use a different set of pads on the street and the track. That would be a tonne of machining.
My front rotors are done now, after 50k kms and 4 track days. Personally, I doubt I'll go with the $2k brake rotor direction that everyone seems to think is the only option for these cars. You can get aftermarket rotors from brakeperformance.com for less than OEM (ie. $375 for BOTH front rotors). I'll let all of the "You get what you pay for" guys talk, but I'll be the test mule on that one later on.
My front rotors are done now, after 50k kms and 4 track days. Personally, I doubt I'll go with the $2k brake rotor direction that everyone seems to think is the only option for these cars. You can get aftermarket rotors from brakeperformance.com for less than OEM (ie. $375 for BOTH front rotors). I'll let all of the "You get what you pay for" guys talk, but I'll be the test mule on that one later on.
10-04-2011, 09:40 PM
#19
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If you have not got experience and were not taught how to do brakes properly, you really ought to take it to a good shop. And you know it is a good idea to machine the rotors everytime you replace pads. This is a MB not some old POS. It's about doing the job right and not scabbing and cutting corners. This is what can make the difference in getting good braking and feel, preventing squeeling, etc.
10-08-2011, 09:49 PM
#20
I just threw a set of PorterFeild RS4 brake pads on the rotors without any resurfacing or turning, so far so good, absolutely no noise at all and seems to brake really well.
The old pads were a bit noisy at low speeds for quite some time now, but these seem good.
Saved myself a nice 3k.
The old pads were a bit noisy at low speeds for quite some time now, but these seem good.
Saved myself a nice 3k.
