Has anyone else experienced this on their C63 or is my car still being broken in at 1k miles? I can hear the slow screeching as my car slows to a halt.

Should I call the dealer or ride this issue out? or better yet, replace with a softer pad?

thanks in advance

 

Mine does this too. I plan to bed in the brakes (a series of 8 to 10) high speed braking from 60mph to say 5mph). In other cars, this has resolved the squeal. If not, I'll get it looked at when I do the diff fluid change.

 

i have it to on my 2012 .. at 3700miles its still an annoying sound ! esp when your pulling up to let's say .. a club !! eeeeEEEEKKKKK .... people look to see what piece of junk im driving only to c that its the new c63 .. the guy at my dealership says he can do nothing about it .. that AMG breaks were made for the Ngring and that normal day driving causes them to do that !! i find that hard to believe !

 

All the cars with performance brakes that I own and have owned have squeaked.

Comes with the territory.

 

Common, mine did it since new. I changed to Porterfeild RS4 pads and its gone now.

 

Take it to your dealer....my brakes were squeaking so bad and i was only at 1200Km, Im at 1600 now and dont hear a peep. I didnt know whether people where looking at me due the noise of the breaks or the engine. So I took my car to my dealership and they fixed it under warranty. Im not sure what the explanation for them was, as my dad went to pick it up for me. But the person who i tested it with was saying their might be a piece of metal from the discs rubbing against the brake. ANd they loving saying "Its Normal" and i say no it freckin isn't.

 

Thanks all, i'll try bedding them in as gthal suggested. I use to bake my motorcycle brake pads in the oven for 15-20 mins. prior to installng them.
If that doesnt work, i'll take it in for a look. I would hate to have to replace brand new pads already....

 

Bedding allows your brakes to reach their full potential. Until they are bedded, your brakes simply do not work as well as they can. If you've installed a big brake kit, changed your pads and rotors, or even purchased a brand new car, you should set aside time to bed the brakes according to the instructions below. Proper bedding improves pedal feel, reduces or eliminates brake squeal, prevents (and often cures) brake judder, reduces brake dust, and extends the life of your pads and rotors. For more details on the theory of bedding, please refer to this article by Centric Parts: Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures

Caution: Immediately after installing new pads, rotors or a big brake kit, the first few applications of the brakes will result in very little braking power. Gently use the brakes a few times at low speed in order to build up some grip before blasting down the road at high speed. Otherwise, you may be in for a nasty surprise the first time you hit the brakes at 60 mph.

If you have just installed rotors with zinc or cadmium plating, or if the rotors have an anti-corrosion phosphate coating, you should postpone the bedding process until normal driving has allowed your brake pads to polish the rotors clean and removed all traces of the plating or coating. If your new brake rotors have an oily anti-corrosion coating, you should clean this off thoroughly with brake cleaning spray and/or hot soapy water.

Read and understand these bedding instructions completely before starting. If you have questions, give us a call or email. Do not substitute higher speeds for the 60mph called for in these instructions. The heat in your brakes goes up exponentially as you increase the speed from which you brake. If you make repeated stops from 80 or 90mph with street pads, you will overheat the brakes and may end up having to replace pads and/or rotors.

When following these instructions, avoid other vehicles. Bedding is often best done early in the morning, when traffic is light, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and may respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. A police officer will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! Zeckhausen Racing does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions. Use common sense!

From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 10-15 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.

The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.

After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need only a few minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.

If full race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction PFC01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10 mph.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors, since the pads need time to conform to the old rotor wear pattern. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.

 

This aggressive bedding procedure applies to race/track type brakes pads where it's useful for the friction material of the pads to deposit on the rotor in order to provide braking as designed for those pads.

We always follow this type of bedding on the Corvettes with the Carbotech, Hawk, Cobalt Friction etc. pads we used in the past, but not the OEM.

OEM and ordinary ceramic pads may not benefit from this extreme bedding and may indeed damage the pads.

It's important to check with the pad manufacturer for the proper bedding of the brake pads.

I'm not sure which pads are OEM on the C63 and therefore would caution using this extreme procedure until you check with Mercedes first so as not to damage the pads.

Anyone know where the C63 OEM pads are sourced?

 

Thanks for the caveat above but FYI I have followed the bedding-in procedure as posted above with no problems and no splotching on the rotor faces. My brakes have never squeaked and braking is smooth and consistent. YMMV.

 

My brakes are squealing also on my 2012 63 sedan with performance package. It's annoying as hell.

 

Mine started at 700kms, so I brought it back and they replaced the rears. But it still squeaked, I put up with it for a while, tried every trick in the book, got angry with the sevice manager and they couldn't duplicate the sound. I did it for them and they reaplced the fronts about 3000kms ago and it has been perfectly quiet.

They tried the "they are racing brakes" crap but I wasn't buying it. It was downright embarrassing pulling up with the squeal which meant slamming the brakes to cross the squeak pressure threshold, easing up , they squeak, slam again...a real dumb way to drive!

 

My 2010 c63 with 18000 miles on it, has started to sqeak as well. It never did it up to this point before. Or at least, I've never noticed. It certainly is annoying at times. I remember, when I got the E63 with it's two piece rotors, they use to squeal but not anymore. I just think my brakes are going thru a teething process, that it didn't go thru at the beginning.

 

I've only noticed brake squeal when my brakes are covered in brake dust. A quick fix (temporarily) is to wash out the brake dust from your calipers and disks. That might help your situation.

 

Welcome to the Benz club and squeaky brakes. I had the same annoying problem and learned from members on the forum that ceramic brakes (Akebono) resolve the issue. Apparently, what happens is that the original pads produce so much brake dust and cause the squeaking.

Since I put akebono pads (front), no squeaks and rims are shiny (no dust).

 

At 16 K miles I am hearing a low pitched squeal slowing at 25 MPH only. Most calipers have shims or springs or retainers which inhibit the vibration of the pads . I have also used a light coating of grease on the back of the cleaned pad to stop squeal on other cars. I have not worked on the C63 brakes, but I would inspect and CLEAN everything as a start. IMO

 

It's normal

 

Finally had enough and dropped the car off for inspection/service this morning. Just hoping they can resolve the squeaky brake issue by either replacing the shims and or add additional shim grease between the pad and shim to reduce vibration and possibly squeaks.

If this doesnt work out, what performance pads do you guys recommend that are squeak free?

 

IMHO bhamg (post 8) has given excellent advice, & is SPOT ON.
We've only just taken delivery of or C63, but were warned of this issue by our Dealer....he said too many people do not use the brakes hard enough, & as a consequence got the squeaky brake issue.
Our previous car was a GTO with AP 6 spot brakes, 362mm rotors & Ferodo DS2500 pads. Ferodo advised me to do EXACTLY as bhamg has explained...10 reasonably hard stops from 100kph (60mph) down to 5-6kph, but DO NOT STOP, in quick succession.....I NEVER had a brake problem....no squeal, no shudder, no nothing!
So, at the first opportunity, I will be doing the same bedding in procedure with the C63!
Cheers, Pickles.

 

lol i just ignore the braking squeals!

 

Hi everyone,

Not sure if this post still active but If it is I would appreciate if some one can tell me what was the end result of this problem? Was the breaks squealing problem was fixed and how? I just picked up my 2014 c63 amg and it had only 30 km and first day driving I heard the breaks squealing .. I spoke with the dealer, the head technician told me that this problem will not go away even if he try to fix it and the sales reps tells me it will go away eventually .. can anyone please let me know what was the end result .. thanks a lot in advance ..

The big question is why MB does not do any thing about this? What happened to quality assurance? How did this pass the PDI that I pay almost $2000 for it .. just not right when you deal with MB that should be of higher standards ..

Thanks all for any help!

 

Its one of the few embarrassing things on the car that is a design flaw if you ask me.

I've owned plenty of high performance cars with even larger brakes, and none squeaked like this (unless severely worn down).

 

agree. the excuse of squeeking and performance pads are all BS. there are lots of performance pads that dont squeek.

it is embarassing when the squeeks drowns out the exhaust note

 

The noise is caused by vibration of the pads. As noted earlier mfgrs use backing shims to reduce or eliminate it. Also you will find small tubes of anti squeal lube in most auto stores. A very thin coat is applied (only)to the back of the pad . Must remove pad to apply.

The bedding procedure for the hi po pads sounds like the procedure used for a long time on metallic pads to bring resins in the pad to the surface of the pad and then onto the disc. Used to be that glaze breaking was recommended before new pads on used discs (emory paper or lathe). Some pads had abrasive on the surface for this.

Dust has never seemed to play a role iMO, but I have noticed squealing stop after water rinsing (wash, rain). It is possible to lodge a small pebble which might cause screeching ( heard, never seen).

rwhisp, a lot of us wish that AMG's worst sin is squeaking brakes. you want worry , try breaking headbolts

 

Thanks for those who responded. Just so I understand, this is not a pad\breaks problem per say, i.e. it is a combination of both, car and breaks, right? in other words, would it help to replace the breaks? If I understand from the comments, this is not simply fixed by replacing the breaks. Also, is this happening on all C63s AMGs? I love the car so do I have to live with this flaw if I am planning to keep it or is there a permanent fix somewhere? For a price closer to six digits, I would expect "German" engineering must have had thought about this and have a fix for it somewhere but it seems this is a long known issue that MB is not bothered to fix. Also, anyone tried to return the car to the dealer since this flaw was not disclosed before the sale? Sorry if I sound frustrated, which obviously I am, but this is very disappointing and took away the happiness of buying this car in the first place and the long time it took waiting to be delivered ..