Ecu Reflashed by Dealer!
#1
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C63 AMG
Ecu Reflashed by Dealer!
Hey guys how are you all doing?
I took my car to the dealer to change my throttle boddies under warranty because they're were not working well as they said, anyways after tha i noticed 2 things which i think they reflashed my ecu, my car would hit the limiter at 280, and when im in S mode i just shifts from 5th to 6th then it would just stay in 7th at 280km/h. so i guess its limited now! the other thing is when im also in S mode 1st gear tends to shift way to early to 2nd gear! but in manual of course its fine it goes all the way until it hits the cut off! is this because the ECU is back to stock? i have the kleeman shorties and an X-pipe on the car! i guess i will have to resend it again for a tune what do u guys think? thank you...
I took my car to the dealer to change my throttle boddies under warranty because they're were not working well as they said, anyways after tha i noticed 2 things which i think they reflashed my ecu, my car would hit the limiter at 280, and when im in S mode i just shifts from 5th to 6th then it would just stay in 7th at 280km/h. so i guess its limited now! the other thing is when im also in S mode 1st gear tends to shift way to early to 2nd gear! but in manual of course its fine it goes all the way until it hits the cut off! is this because the ECU is back to stock? i have the kleeman shorties and an X-pipe on the car! i guess i will have to resend it again for a tune what do u guys think? thank you...
#2
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Hey guys how are you all doing?
I took my car to the dealer to change my throttle boddies under warranty because they're were not working well as they said, anyways after tha i noticed 2 things which i think they reflashed my ecu, my car would hit the limiter at 280, and when im in S mode i just shifts from 5th to 6th then it would just stay in 7th at 280km/h. so i guess its limited now! the other thing is when im also in S mode 1st gear tends to shift way to early to 2nd gear! but in manual of course its fine it goes all the way until it hits the cut off! is this because the ECU is back to stock? i have the kleeman shorties and an X-pipe on the car! i guess i will have to resend it again for a tune what do u guys think? thank you...
I took my car to the dealer to change my throttle boddies under warranty because they're were not working well as they said, anyways after tha i noticed 2 things which i think they reflashed my ecu, my car would hit the limiter at 280, and when im in S mode i just shifts from 5th to 6th then it would just stay in 7th at 280km/h. so i guess its limited now! the other thing is when im also in S mode 1st gear tends to shift way to early to 2nd gear! but in manual of course its fine it goes all the way until it hits the cut off! is this because the ECU is back to stock? i have the kleeman shorties and an X-pipe on the car! i guess i will have to resend it again for a tune what do u guys think? thank you...
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I'm surprised that they did give you grief that the modified exhaust was making the throttle bodies malfunction. If they knew you had a tune on it they may not have even done the work underwarranty for you. A good tuner should charge you a nominal fee for this as I'm sure it happens more often than not.
#4
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Nice place to have a modded car underwarranty. Given the changes are so noticible to you they must have reflashed it. I'd ask your tuner to flash it back.
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2017 991.2 Turbo PDK 2017 C63S Coupe Ceramic Brakes 2015 CLS63S AMG Full House
''S'' mode is fast. When you select ''M'' mode the C63 is not only faster, it has a higher top-end too, as opposed to ''S'' mode.
In your case, your car could've been re-flashed by dealer.
In your case, your car could've been re-flashed by dealer.
Hey guys how are you all doing?
I took my car to the dealer to change my throttle boddies under warranty because they're were not working well as they said, anyways after tha i noticed 2 things which i think they reflashed my ecu, my car would hit the limiter at 280, and when im in S mode i just shifts from 5th to 6th then it would just stay in 7th at 280km/h. so i guess its limited now! the other thing is when im also in S mode 1st gear tends to shift way to early to 2nd gear! but in manual of course its fine it goes all the way until it hits the cut off! is this because the ECU is back to stock? i have the kleeman shorties and an X-pipe on the car! i guess i will have to resend it again for a tune what do u guys think? thank you...
I took my car to the dealer to change my throttle boddies under warranty because they're were not working well as they said, anyways after tha i noticed 2 things which i think they reflashed my ecu, my car would hit the limiter at 280, and when im in S mode i just shifts from 5th to 6th then it would just stay in 7th at 280km/h. so i guess its limited now! the other thing is when im also in S mode 1st gear tends to shift way to early to 2nd gear! but in manual of course its fine it goes all the way until it hits the cut off! is this because the ECU is back to stock? i have the kleeman shorties and an X-pipe on the car! i guess i will have to resend it again for a tune what do u guys think? thank you...
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#8
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#9
I agree... M mode only impacts shift speed and nothing else. In the M3, the "M" mode would also change throttle response, suspension damping, steering weight but on the C63 it is shift related only.
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2017 991.2 Turbo PDK 2017 C63S Coupe Ceramic Brakes 2015 CLS63S AMG Full House
I'm in Johannesburg, which is 5700 feet above sea-level. I'm very sure that I would have got at least an 8% gain on the needle marker, if I were flat-out @ Sea-level.
My C63 is Stock, but has PP31 and oem LSD.
Thus my comment I made.
Go try it and see for yourself. Make sure you have a good brand of tyre (I use Michelin PSS)
Be safe testing @ the limit.
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2017 991.2 Turbo PDK 2017 C63S Coupe Ceramic Brakes 2015 CLS63S AMG Full House
Correct, but when in ''M'' mode, the rev counter gets close to just under 7100rpm, as apposed to 6700rpm.
They have a faster V-Max reading in Manual Mode, from my experience. And this engine shows no signs of strain @ the top-end.
Has anyone tried this? Will be nice to know, what comes of this.
They have a faster V-Max reading in Manual Mode, from my experience. And this engine shows no signs of strain @ the top-end.
Has anyone tried this? Will be nice to know, what comes of this.
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ok but the weird thing is my car used to go all the way to redline in S mode, but now i kinda shifts earlier actually alot earlier! happend to me at the drag strip was in S mode and as soon as i launched which was very good but car shifted around 6000Revs...
#15
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Dude, you have nobody to blame but yourself, if you don't want them to reflash you need to tell them. There are always updates and stuff that they will plug your car in and reflash it. My dealership has strict jinstruction NOT to ever flash my ecu.
#18
Senior Member
There are two options that i know of
Option one seems to work for some people and not for others.
Soft reset.
1. Turn ignition key on, but not to start.
2. Mash the gas pedal all the way down ( count to five ).
3. Turn the key off but don't remove it.
4. Let go of the gas pedal.
5. Wait for 2 minutes before you start up.
** important notes - You have to sit in the car will all doors closed and don't open the doors before you complete the whole sequence**
Brabus said that its a bosh motronic soft reset that works on most of their units.
Then shift/drive about 50 miles (aggressively in sport mode with ESP "off or sport")
The first 40 - 50 gear changes are the most important to learn your driving style.
Hard Reset
Here you have 2 options.
1. Disconnect the Battery for 30 min.
2. Unplug the ECU for 30 min.
I have not tried to do the Hard reset as the soft one worked for me.
I am not sure what else you will have to restore after the battery disconnect.
Maybe someone else on the forum here can point out what will change.
Also its a big (time consuming) job for the dealer to ref lash the ECU. On the other hand its a quick job for them to update the TCU.
I had mine updated recently when i had it in for a service and the car felt completely numb. I also thought they flashed my ECU and when I tried to reload my Software it said that the files were identical.
So after a call to the dealer and the main tech he mumbled something torq limiting in certain areas.
Brabus suggested I do the soft reset and mash it for 50 miles or so.
It made the world of difference.
The update the dealership did actually made the car quicker of the line.
Hope this is applicable to your situation and helps you out.
ps. I am in no way encouraging or promoting driving like a hooligan, please be safe in testing with your car
Option one seems to work for some people and not for others.
Soft reset.
1. Turn ignition key on, but not to start.
2. Mash the gas pedal all the way down ( count to five ).
3. Turn the key off but don't remove it.
4. Let go of the gas pedal.
5. Wait for 2 minutes before you start up.
** important notes - You have to sit in the car will all doors closed and don't open the doors before you complete the whole sequence**
Brabus said that its a bosh motronic soft reset that works on most of their units.
Then shift/drive about 50 miles (aggressively in sport mode with ESP "off or sport")
The first 40 - 50 gear changes are the most important to learn your driving style.
Hard Reset
Here you have 2 options.
1. Disconnect the Battery for 30 min.
2. Unplug the ECU for 30 min.
I have not tried to do the Hard reset as the soft one worked for me.
I am not sure what else you will have to restore after the battery disconnect.
Maybe someone else on the forum here can point out what will change.
Also its a big (time consuming) job for the dealer to ref lash the ECU. On the other hand its a quick job for them to update the TCU.
I had mine updated recently when i had it in for a service and the car felt completely numb. I also thought they flashed my ECU and when I tried to reload my Software it said that the files were identical.
So after a call to the dealer and the main tech he mumbled something torq limiting in certain areas.
Brabus suggested I do the soft reset and mash it for 50 miles or so.
It made the world of difference.
The update the dealership did actually made the car quicker of the line.
Hope this is applicable to your situation and helps you out.
ps. I am in no way encouraging or promoting driving like a hooligan, please be safe in testing with your car
#20
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#21
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There are two options that i know of
Option one seems to work for some people and not for others.
Soft reset.
1. Turn ignition key on, but not to start.
2. Mash the gas pedal all the way down ( count to five ).
3. Turn the key off but don't remove it.
4. Let go of the gas pedal.
5. Wait for 2 minutes before you start up.
** important notes - You have to sit in the car will all doors closed and don't open the doors before you complete the whole sequence**
Brabus said that its a bosh motronic soft reset that works on most of their units.
Then shift/drive about 50 miles (aggressively in sport mode with ESP "off or sport")
The first 40 - 50 gear changes are the most important to learn your driving style.
Hard Reset
Here you have 2 options.
1. Disconnect the Battery for 30 min.
2. Unplug the ECU for 30 min.
I have not tried to do the Hard reset as the soft one worked for me.
I am not sure what else you will have to restore after the battery disconnect.
Maybe someone else on the forum here can point out what will change.
Also its a big (time consuming) job for the dealer to ref lash the ECU. On the other hand its a quick job for them to update the TCU.
I had mine updated recently when i had it in for a service and the car felt completely numb. I also thought they flashed my ECU and when I tried to reload my Software it said that the files were identical.
So after a call to the dealer and the main tech he mumbled something torq limiting in certain areas.
Brabus suggested I do the soft reset and mash it for 50 miles or so.
It made the world of difference.
The update the dealership did actually made the car quicker of the line.
Hope this is applicable to your situation and helps you out.
ps. I am in no way encouraging or promoting driving like a hooligan, please be safe in testing with your car
Option one seems to work for some people and not for others.
Soft reset.
1. Turn ignition key on, but not to start.
2. Mash the gas pedal all the way down ( count to five ).
3. Turn the key off but don't remove it.
4. Let go of the gas pedal.
5. Wait for 2 minutes before you start up.
** important notes - You have to sit in the car will all doors closed and don't open the doors before you complete the whole sequence**
Brabus said that its a bosh motronic soft reset that works on most of their units.
Then shift/drive about 50 miles (aggressively in sport mode with ESP "off or sport")
The first 40 - 50 gear changes are the most important to learn your driving style.
Hard Reset
Here you have 2 options.
1. Disconnect the Battery for 30 min.
2. Unplug the ECU for 30 min.
I have not tried to do the Hard reset as the soft one worked for me.
I am not sure what else you will have to restore after the battery disconnect.
Maybe someone else on the forum here can point out what will change.
Also its a big (time consuming) job for the dealer to ref lash the ECU. On the other hand its a quick job for them to update the TCU.
I had mine updated recently when i had it in for a service and the car felt completely numb. I also thought they flashed my ECU and when I tried to reload my Software it said that the files were identical.
So after a call to the dealer and the main tech he mumbled something torq limiting in certain areas.
Brabus suggested I do the soft reset and mash it for 50 miles or so.
It made the world of difference.
The update the dealership did actually made the car quicker of the line.
Hope this is applicable to your situation and helps you out.
ps. I am in no way encouraging or promoting driving like a hooligan, please be safe in testing with your car
Thanks alot for the helpful info will try it out as soon as i take my car out somewhere and stop there where i can straight away hammer it down as soon as im done with the reset! and one more thing u said the most imporant are 40-50 gear changes, so you mean hammer the car at these speeds?
#22
Senior Member
Its more about the Shift Points. If you in Sport mode use the paddles to force it to change at the rev limit. Its not practical to mash it in all the gears unless you are on a track. That is why some ppl say that you can get a higher top speed in manual mode VS sport as it shifts sooner on 6'th gear. Just hold the gears longer and try and change at full RPM's. 40 shifts will happen very quickly don't worry. My suggestion would be to do Sport mode and ESP in sport Mode and use the paddles to hold the gears.
Needless to say, make sure you stay safe..
Needless to say, make sure you stay safe..
#23
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Its more about the Shift Points. If you in Sport mode use the paddles to force it to change at the rev limit. Its not practical to mash it in all the gears unless you are on a track. That is why some ppl say that you can get a higher top speed in manual mode VS sport as it shifts sooner on 6'th gear. Just hold the gears longer and try and change at full RPM's. 40 shifts will happen very quickly don't worry. My suggestion would be to do Sport mode and ESP in sport Mode and use the paddles to hold the gears.
Needless to say, make sure you stay safe..
Needless to say, make sure you stay safe..