Correct Tire Pressure
What is the recommended minimum pressure on the fuel door for C63?
It appears the higher pressures are recommended for Higher Speeds...
Recommended High Speed Pressure & Load Capacity Adjustments
For Z-Speed Rated Tires
(tire manufacturer must confirm speed capability beyond 149 mph)
Vehicle
Top Speed Required Tire
Pressure Increase Tire Load Capacity
% of Branded Maximum Z-Speed Rated Tire
35 psi O.E. Example
mph km/h psi bar % of value branded on sidewall psi lbs.
118 190 0 0 100% 35.0 1000
124 200 1.5 0.1 100% 36.5 1000
130 210 3.0 0.2 100% 38.0 1000
136 220 4.5 0.3 100% 39.5 1000
143 230 6.0 0.4 100% 41.0 1000
149 240 7.5 0.5 100% 42.5 1000
155 250 7.5 0.5 100% 42.5 1000
161 260 7.5 0.5 100% 42.5 1000
168 270 7.5 0.5 100% 42.5 1000
174 280 7.5 0.5 95% 42.5 950
180 290 7.5 0.5 90% 42.5 900
186 300 7.5 0.5 85% 42.5 850
NOTES: Never exceed the maximum cold inflation pressure branded on the tire's sidewall.
I;m curious as to how does a high pressure cause debris to be picked up? I would think a lower pressure would do this as the tread would "sag" and be more prone to debris.
For me, I stick with 42 as is gives even wear and maintains the required MB load rating (according to Tire Rack). Deviating from what the manufacturer suggests by a lot (e.g. 36) doesn't make a lot of sense to me unless there are specific reasons (drag strip, track use, want a sloppy/cushy ride and don't care about the other stuff). I also found the car felt sloppy below 42. The sidewall flex was too much and the car felt less tight. That might be OK in an E/CLS/CL but not in a C

Bottom line though is there is a lot of personal opinion on this and very little is based on any real evidence or fact (including my opinion).
Last edited by gthal; Nov 18, 2012 at 10:38 AM.
I used to think a lower pressure would be less likely to pick up debris, too. I used to get a lot of flats (esp passenger side rear tire) in my old cars and came to found out my tire pressure meter caused me to overinflate. Then I got a digital Accutire one after reading Consumers Reports as well as a new set of tires and never had a flat since then. But the new tire model might have something to do with it.
Last edited by otakki; Nov 18, 2012 at 07:25 PM.
Tire pressure is 49. And fronts are like 43. But just one rare tire is 5-6 points higher than the rest.. Should I be concerned ?
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
F 41
R 45
the gas flap says
low load 39/39
full load 41/45
but it looks like this is for 225/45/18 all around M&S winter tires?
it says when warm +4 psi F & R
I'm running tires that have a higher load rating
when reading the oem pressure/load from a load/inflation chart I get 39/41 for my tires when I equate the oem load to my rating...that is what I run
seem to be wearing very evenly, did a chalk test
Oh I don't care about wear either. I mean enough min roll on burn offs for fun kinda defeats worrying about mileage
I set the cold tires with an accurate gauge to 41 all around and recalibrated the TPM. It read 39/39. Very annoying. I had to drop the pressures to 39, reset the TPM and then bump them to 41. Not a big deal but stuff like that irritates me.
I also found 9K miles on the rear a bit extreme as I don't race it. I have never lit up the white smoke. Just normal spirited driving...
Buddy joined in June 2014, and the last post in this thread is August 2014. He was thinking about what he wanted his first post to be for a reaaaaaaaaaaaaally long time, and finally got it just right.
Don't forget you're running low profile rubber, & with that low pressure, you are lessening the "cushioning" barrier that you need to protect your rims if you hit a rock or something.....you are more likely to suffer tyre damage which can then more easily transmit to the rim....I'd be going a MINIMUM of 38.
Cheers, Pickles.
Last edited by 507OverBiturbo; Dec 24, 2016 at 01:28 PM.
1. While the label on the driver's door jamb shows 41/45 front/rear, the fuel filler door label shows that this is for 5 people and luggage. Under normal conditions, the figures are 39/39 front/rear.
2. At the track, you must have a tire pyrometer to properly set tire pressures. The trick is to drive the car then quickly check the temperature of each tire (use the stick-in probe, not the IR laser) at the outside edge, middle, and inside edge. Average the outside and inside edge temperatures; if the middle temp is lower, then the tire is under inflated. If the middle temp is higher, then the tire is over inflated.
This is the ONLY way to correctly set the tire temperature at the track. Frankly, this is how to also do it under normal road conditions, too, regardless of what the fuel filler door says. Clearly, the idea is to have ALL the tire contact patch working equally, which means that temperatures are even across the fact of the tire. If the middle of the tire is working too hard, grip is compromised (since the edges aren't working hard enough). BTW I'm a mechanical engineer and instruct for the Porsche and Mercedes clubs

You'll notice that often the inside and outside edges of the tires have different temperatures. If the inside is running hotter than the outside, then you have too much negative camber and you need to dial it out. If the outside is hotter, then there's not enough caster and in corners the tire is rolling over. Good luck on this, though, as I don't believe camber is adjustable on the W204.










