Multiple CEL codes, need a hand folks!
#1
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Multiple CEL codes, need a hand folks!
So I got a few CEL codes. The car is running very very rough, similar to someone with a bad Cam position sensor or crankshaft position sensor.
Here are the Codes:
P0300 Missfire multiple
P0301
P0302
P0304
P0016 Crankshaft Position Correlation Bank 1 Sensor A
Has anyone had this sensor replace out of your own pocket? How much are we looking at part and labor?
The symtoms are CEL steady after flashing like 18 times or so. Smell of unburnt gas and bad bad shake. Sounds like if you have a very lopey cam.
The sooner you guys can give me a lead the better. I appreciate it much.
Here are the Codes:
P0300 Missfire multiple
P0301
P0302
P0304
P0016 Crankshaft Position Correlation Bank 1 Sensor A
Has anyone had this sensor replace out of your own pocket? How much are we looking at part and labor?
The symtoms are CEL steady after flashing like 18 times or so. Smell of unburnt gas and bad bad shake. Sounds like if you have a very lopey cam.
The sooner you guys can give me a lead the better. I appreciate it much.
#3
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^^Yes and Yes but can't just show up with a 150 decibel exhaust. I rather pay out of pocket than the service advisor turning me away for warranty refusal.
If I had the stock exhaust manifold it would be different. If this repair is reasonable(less than $500 I might go for it. If it is more I will then put the car back to stock and say bye buy to the headers because I ain't paying for a removal and reinstall.
I might go for a third party shop. I just need realistic inputs, real prices. How much does the sensor cost, has anyone pay out of pocket?
If I had the stock exhaust manifold it would be different. If this repair is reasonable(less than $500 I might go for it. If it is more I will then put the car back to stock and say bye buy to the headers because I ain't paying for a removal and reinstall.
I might go for a third party shop. I just need realistic inputs, real prices. How much does the sensor cost, has anyone pay out of pocket?
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
^^Yes and Yes but can't just show up with a 150 decibel exhaust. I rather pay out of pocket than the service advisor turning me away for warranty refusal.
If I had the stock exhaust manifold it would be different. If this repair is reasonable(less than $500 I might go for it. If it is more I will then put the car back to stock and say bye buy to the headers because I ain't paying for a removal and reinstall.
I might go for a third party shop. I just need realistic inputs, real prices. How much does the sensor cost, has anyone pay out of pocket?
If I had the stock exhaust manifold it would be different. If this repair is reasonable(less than $500 I might go for it. If it is more I will then put the car back to stock and say bye buy to the headers because I ain't paying for a removal and reinstall.
I might go for a third party shop. I just need realistic inputs, real prices. How much does the sensor cost, has anyone pay out of pocket?
#5
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Thread Starter
All 4 already?? The mileage is not that high. Wouldn't be better to take it to one of the European specialist Mercedes third party shops and get a real CEL code and diagnosis?
I got the codes today from a friend owner of a import shop that happen to have a European reader but wasn't the most moder one though. He was able to give me a lead though..
I got the codes today from a friend owner of a import shop that happen to have a European reader but wasn't the most moder one though. He was able to give me a lead though..
#6
^^Yes and Yes but can't just show up with a 150 decibel exhaust. I rather pay out of pocket than the service advisor turning me away for warranty refusal.
If I had the stock exhaust manifold it would be different. If this repair is reasonable(less than $500 I might go for it. If it is more I will then put the car back to stock and say bye buy to the headers because I ain't paying for a removal and reinstall.
I might go for a third party shop. I just need realistic inputs, real prices. How much does the sensor cost, has anyone pay out of pocket?
If I had the stock exhaust manifold it would be different. If this repair is reasonable(less than $500 I might go for it. If it is more I will then put the car back to stock and say bye buy to the headers because I ain't paying for a removal and reinstall.
I might go for a third party shop. I just need realistic inputs, real prices. How much does the sensor cost, has anyone pay out of pocket?
Last edited by bhamg; 03-06-2012 at 11:32 PM.
#7
Senior Member
P0301, P0302, P0304, misfires on bank 1,2,4?, my guess is the O2's as well.
that code reminds me of a common VAG (bad EGT) as well though..
that code reminds me of a common VAG (bad EGT) as well though..
Last edited by sighting; 03-06-2012 at 11:36 PM.
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#8
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The last time that I was looking for a Fuking o2 sensor(5 wire) for a 1992 Hoinda Civi VX the dealer wanted $500 plus dollars (The car cost me $400) and that was just one 02 sensor.
How much are we talking about? the car only has 21500 miles. Do I replace them, all at once? how much does it cost (parts only).
How much are we talking about? the car only has 21500 miles. Do I replace them, all at once? how much does it cost (parts only).
#9
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Ah, OK. This may or may not help but in the BMW world camshaft sensor replacements are a straightforward DIY...not expensive at all and easy for the modestly mechanically inclined. IIRC getting to wiring (crankshaft sensor) can be more difficult than replacing the sensor itself. The symptoms definitely sound like one or the other sensor IMO. Not sure about this motor though...sorry.
#11
The last time that I was looking for a Fuking o2 sensor(5 wire) for a 1992 Hoinda Civi VX the dealer wanted $500 plus dollars (The car cost me $400) and that was just one 02 sensor.
How much are we talking about? the car only has 21500 miles. Do I replace them, all at once? how much does it cost (parts only).
How much are we talking about? the car only has 21500 miles. Do I replace them, all at once? how much does it cost (parts only).
#12
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#14
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I still think that is an insane price to pay for something that was working perfectly fine a moment ago. I am not in the mod to just try $500 in parts to find out that is a Cam position sensor or a Crankshaft position sensor.
How about just buying one sensor at the time?or does it have to be all replaced at once in order to work in harmny? Isn't better to just get a real diagnosis?
How about just buying one sensor at the time?or does it have to be all replaced at once in order to work in harmny? Isn't better to just get a real diagnosis?
#15
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#16
#18
No man. Not all 4 O2s need replacing.
The secondary O2s are for emissions.. Its probably the primary (First) ones that are fouled up. But I don't see any codes related to those, just this: P0016 Crankshaft Position Correlation Bank 1 Sensor A... That's clearly a crank sensor fault.
Primary O2 sensors are cheap, 150 bucks. Look around more.. (If this is even the problem, which it doesn't look like yet)
http://www.eurobzparts.com/parts/?si...versal:1%29%29
Check bosch's site for a retailer locations. Prices for these at the dealer are like 300.
You have a crank sensor code. So that might need to be replaced...
But what are the other codes that you don't have listed?
The car needs to be plugged in and read out to what the faults are exactly. Their software should tell them what is usually the problem for that particular code.
I wouldn't go replacing parts till you have a better idea of the problem.
The secondary O2s are for emissions.. Its probably the primary (First) ones that are fouled up. But I don't see any codes related to those, just this: P0016 Crankshaft Position Correlation Bank 1 Sensor A... That's clearly a crank sensor fault.
Primary O2 sensors are cheap, 150 bucks. Look around more.. (If this is even the problem, which it doesn't look like yet)
http://www.eurobzparts.com/parts/?si...versal:1%29%29
Check bosch's site for a retailer locations. Prices for these at the dealer are like 300.
You have a crank sensor code. So that might need to be replaced...
But what are the other codes that you don't have listed?
The car needs to be plugged in and read out to what the faults are exactly. Their software should tell them what is usually the problem for that particular code.
I wouldn't go replacing parts till you have a better idea of the problem.
#19
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Just change the passenger upstream O2 sensor...1 O2 sensor <200 bucks, takes 15 mins to do. Bank 1,2,4 is passenger side. Chill. If still throwing codes, change crankshaft sensor or cam position sensor. Post all the codes
#20
I third this. Get the car read out and a better idea of the problem. Don't go throwing parts at a problem with just a hunch.
You could even switch your O2 sensors from one side to the other in the mean time. See if that changes the codes. Then you know 1 side is faulty if that even has anything to do with it... Its just an easy task to rule out 1 of the O2s being faulty.
Also, have you pulled the plugs and checked them out? You should be running 1 step colder plugs with headers and a tune.... I am. I was getting a hesitation on the freeway with slight load and its gone now with the new colder plugs. Another thing you can check urself without spending $.
#24
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Nothing. Car was running sweet since the tune and headers. Loud but sweet. I wasn't eeven driving it, my wife was and she called me to tell me.
I tried the simple stuff like reseting the battery, then the ECU, then looking for unplugged stuff like the mass air flow sensors, coilpacks, etc.
I even had my own scanner plugged but I got a "link error". I then had my friend showing up today with a professional scanner and clear the coides but the car rans the same(it is undriveable)
I tried the simple stuff like reseting the battery, then the ECU, then looking for unplugged stuff like the mass air flow sensors, coilpacks, etc.
I even had my own scanner plugged but I got a "link error". I then had my friend showing up today with a professional scanner and clear the coides but the car rans the same(it is undriveable)
#25
Dont touch them or let them touch the ground and get contaminated... Usually you have a cap for them to cover it once you take them out.. Just clear your codes and switch left to right, that will tell you right away if one of them is faulty.